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  1. #51
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Picking up where I left off, I finished up the wiring in the trunk of the car for the stage 3 pump. I'd already ran the power lines for the 2nd fuel pump through the rear passenger side wheel well and up into the battery compartment through a grommet, so I made those connections in their proper place in the pre-made relay harness and mounted it. That relay's power wire is connected directed to the positive terminal in the battery. After some wire loom, and because of the way I routed the wires, you can't tell anything has been added at all inside the trunk.

    Click here to enlarge

    The trigger wires, which once activated, will turn on the power to the second pump, were routed from the relay seen above, down through the same hole I brought the power wires through from, and alongside the battery cables that run up the passenger side undercarriage of the car (some panels must be removed to access) and into the DME compartment. In my case, these trigger wires would be getting their signal from a 15psi Hobb's switch -- which I decided to place on the new manifold instead of my charge pipe. There are 4 ports, but I'm only using two: one for the Hobb's switch and one for a large reference port for my Tial blow off valve.

    Click here to enlarge

    Now after reassembling everything, I only had the wiring in the engine bay remaining. This was by far the most tedious part of the install. I started by test fitting to see if the JB4 PI controller could fit in the DME box, which it did.

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    Having an ethanol sensor previously installed meant that I'd have to remove that pin from the DB25 side of the JB4 and move it to another portion open slot on the connector, as the PI controller needed that input.

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    The same chassis ground I used for the ethanol sensor, was also used for the PI controller.

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    Yellow TMAP wire to the DB9 side of the Jb4.

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    I didn't get pictures of everything, but that's because it was a handful keeping my head wrapped around the wiring. Routing everything properly so the DME lid fit back on nice and secure was also a challenge, but eventually it was done and time to move on to adding in the new hardware, starting with the HPFP. Once the splines were aligned and everything seated properly, the bolts were tightened down and it was time to move on to the fuel lines.

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    Compared to the other fuel line clips used, this new camlock style fitting is much preferred. And with the supplied lube for the hard lines, the fuel line slid right on with ease.

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    Here's the connection at the ethanol sensor, as well as a good comparison shot of the old style fitting and line on the left, with the new style on the right.

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    Now the remaining end of the y-shaped fuel line would attach to the port injection fuel rail, but first we'd need to fit the manifold. I relocated the "evil black box" mounting bracket, as well as the manifold sensor before bringing it over to the engine bay.

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    My first attempt at this took some effort, as there are quite a few hoses, wires and cables that run along the firewall, with space is at a minimum -- especially around the fuel rail at the rear. Eventually I was able to get the manifold over the studs and the AN fitting of the fuel line tightened onto the fuel rail, but it took raising the hard AC line up and out of the way a few inches.

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    With the throttle body and sensor reinstalled.

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    The fully visible top fuel rail looks phenomenal, especially when the JB4 PI harness is plugged in.

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    At this point, I reattached the battery, primed the pump, and confirmed there were no leaks present. Luckily, there weren't and moved on to addressing the flash tune and firmware. I used my JB4 mobile app to update to the latest firmware, and then loaded up the BMS ST TS E85 PI THR flash. Back in the JB4 settings, I changed to map 1, set all the duty bias to 50, set meth signal scaling to 99 so I can make sure the PI is engaging, and adjusted my FUA so I can still see my ethanol content.

    Amazingly, the car fired up on the first crank and began idling normally. I got under the car, and closely monitored the manifold and connections to ensure there were no leaks to address.

    All in all, everything lined up perfectly as far as fitment goes. I did have to do a bit more trimming to the engine cover in order to make it fit, as it was coming in contact with the PI fuel rail and connections. I also took the opportunity to remove the BMS filter and give it a thorough cleaning as well. The compressor cover of these PTE turbos is a shame to have to cover up though.

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    With everything put back together, the engine bay looks sensational -- definitely an upgrade aesthetically over the stock waffle plastic intake.

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    By the time I was finished, had everything reinstalled, and got the car back on the ground it was entirely too late to take it for a spin, so I'll save that for this week sometime. I'll start at the lowest boost setting on E50 or E60 fuel, make sure I got all the wiring correct for everything to activate when desired and that logs look good, then I'll slowly ramp up the boost.

  2. #52
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    Yessss, this is awesome! Post up some logs with the higher E content.
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  3. #53
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    Unfortunately this morning before I went on a drive, I realized that I purchased my G5 ISO board in March of 2015, about 6 months before they started shipping with the updated chip. So while I was all ready to go this morning, this means no PI for me until the anti-lag + PI driver 24K22 chip gets here from BMS. I put in an order for one this morning with expedited shipping, as well as picked up a Dragy, so I'll be patiently waiting.

  4. #54
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by chadillac2000 Click here to enlarge
    Unfortunately this morning before I went on a drive, I realized that I purchased my G5 ISO board in March of 2015, about 6 months before they started shipping with the updated chip. So while I was all ready to go this morning, this means no PI for me until the anti-lag + PI driver 24K22 chip gets here from BMS. I put in an order for one this morning with expedited shipping, as well as picked up a Dragy, so I'll be patiently waiting.
    Ahh yes, that is important for it to work. I'll take a look around make sure the order gets out today Click here to enlarge
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  5. #55
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Payam@BMS Click here to enlarge
    Ahh yes, that is important for it to work. I'll take a look around make sure the order gets out today Click here to enlarge
    Looks like it did leave yesterday and should be here tomorrow. Thanks as always Payam!
    ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

  6. #56
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    To update the situation regarding the aluminum guibo I managed to break in a very short time, after finishing up installing a Fuel-It stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing PI IM, and upgraded fuel lines, I swapped back on my old 103,000 mile old rubber guibo and finally got to drive the car a bit. I did note some ever so slight stress cracks starting to form in the rubber near the bushings on this one before I bolted it back in.

    To my pleasant surprise, probably 99% of the NVH was experiencing and blaming on the SMFW immediately remedied themselves after reinstalling the rubber guibo. A night and day difference in vibration, downshifts are now easier to rev match cleanly, and I no longer experience the the "rocking" sensation I was getting when quickly letting off the throttle at most speeds. I'll probably grab a brand new rubber version and install it during my next oil change just to be safe and avoid future problems and vibrations.
    ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

  7. #57
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    As I mentioned a few posts back, soon after wrapping up the installation of all the new fueling hardware, I realized I had ordered my G5 board about 6 months prior to when BMS started shipping them with their 24K22 chip that's needed for PI integration. It only took a few days for the anti-lag chip (and Dragy module) to make its way from California to North Carolina. Installation seemed like a breeze. Just pull out the old chip and insert this new one in the same orientation.

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    Moments after the picture above was taken, I managed to break off one of the pins on the very end of the new chip while trying to get it seated. Doh! I felt like an idiot, but swallowed my pride, managed to reinstall the old chip back into the JB4, put everything in the engine bay back together, and made a rush order for another updated 24K22 chip. Thanks to Payam, it got out the same day and would be in my hands 48 hours later so I could try again.

    In the meantime, I downloaded Fuel-It's iPhone app (previously I'd only been monitoring E85 content through the JB4 Mobile app) and took the car to add some more ethanol. Because prior to all the new parts, my HPFP was struggling to keep up, I had been running only a few gallons of E85 per tank to help with timing while running mostly pump gas -- E17 in this case.

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    Fuel-It's app connects via Bluetooth to the analyzer to show ethanol content and fuel temperature, and also includes this very helpful E85 calculator for mixing.

    Click here to enlarge

    After using the calculations above to achieve E50, and allowing the new mixture to make its way past the ethanol sensor and into the engine, we were looking at an actual E49 mixture. For what I was targeting, that's pretty accurate and also confirms I have a reliable source of E85.

    Click here to enlarge

    The second time around, I was able to get the PI integrated chip installed successfully. From there I flashed the BMS ST TS E85 PI THR BEF, switched to map 2 (17psi), set fuel bias to 50 across the board, set FF low, set my DWP to 80, set my open loop to 0, set meth scaling to 99, and made sure menu 8 was on option 0 through the steering wheel controls. After all this, the port injection and dual fuel pump setup should be ready and active.

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    Unfortunately the rain has been a nuisance for the last week or so, so I wasn't able to get any multi-gear logs, but I was able to get on the throttle enough in third gear to take some short logs that confirmed the PI was flowing properly -- this could be seen by looking at the fuel enrichment column on the JB4 logs. In addition, the trims were looking excellent and high and low pressures looked steady. Even at map 2's 17psi, the port injection E85 tune was a night and day difference compared to the pump gas tune, and spooled noticeably faster.

    It also feels nice to be running so many modifications with not a single warning light on the dash.

    Click here to enlarge

    Finally, I should be ready to rock n' roll with this single turbo now that it has all the fuel it needs. I can't wait to see what E60 and 23psi will feel like. I'll be posting up some 3rd-4th gear pulls on map 2 sometime this week, weather pending, so I can confirm everything looks good when WOT for an extended period.
    ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

  8. #58
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    That keytag in the background tho Click here to enlarge

    Lookin' good so far man. I'm excited to see you turn up the boost and try out Dragy.
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  9. #59
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    One of the best single turbo build threads.
    Three sets of brand new 991.2 3.0 headers for sale: Kline, Fabspeed, and Vektor Ceramic Coated

    IPD plenum for Porsche 991.2 3.0 for sale: $650

  10. #60
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    Back when I was installing this latest round of fueling mods, I touched on the fact that I had found my aluminum guibo completely destroyed.

    Click here to enlarge

    I had attributed this failure to all the clunking and drivetrain vibration I'd been experiencing in 1st and 2nd gears. While the car was up on stands, I swapped back in the OEM rubber guibo the car came with back in 2008 and torqued everything back in. Keep in mind, I did not drop the mid-pipe portion of the exhaust, nor did I drop the heat shielding above that shields the driveshaft from the elements. When I got the car back on the road to test out the port injection and second Walbro 450, it seemed that most of the problem had been resolved. I could still feel the vibration I was experiencing with the aluminum guibo, but it had become much more manageable.

    Over the next few weeks, however, things had gotten worse and most of the vibration had returned in 1st and 2nd gear. In fact, in 1st gear under anything but the lightest of throttle, it sounded like the driveshaft was making contact with metal. I limped the car to my garage, and got the car back on stands again. To my surprise, the guibo was still intact and didn't look ripped in the slightest.

    Click here to enlarge

    This meant the center support bearing was the next possible failure spot, but getting a clear view of that portion of the driveshaft meant dropping the mid-pipe and heat shielding. At that point, it was obvious the center support bearing was destroyed and the culprit of the harshness I'd been experiencing.

    The other obvious issue was that back when I'd dropped the driveshaft to upgrade my clutch/flywheel earlier in the year, I had not paid close enough attention to the orientation and installed it upside down. This was putting the angle of the driveshaft slightly off kilter, and therefore trashing the center support bearing itself, as well as the guibo.

    Click here to enlarge

    I was disappointed in my dumb mistake, but it's not the first nor the last I'll make while wrenching, and now I know for sure what was causing the issue. I used FCPEuro to pick up a brand new OEM BMW guibo and center support bearing. The lifetime warranty on some of these wear and tear items is valuable in my eyes.

    I started at the guibo end of the driveshaft and disconnected those 6 bolts. Most DIYs I reviewed recommended pulling the driveshaft at the differential end, but I did not have the 50mm open end wrench in order to remove the oversized nut. This meant leaving the driveshaft attached at the differential, disconnecting the two bolts securing the center support bearing, and pulling back the rubber boot to expose the splines of the driveshaft.

    At this point, you'll want to mark the two ends of the driveshaft so they can be reassembled in the exact same way they were removed. The driveshaft is balanced as a single unit and has weights in certain areas for vibration free driving. From there, a 3 jaw puller made light work of getting the center bearing removed from the driveshaft.

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    Old parts compared to the new ones.

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    New guibo on the left, old cracked guibo on the right.

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    To install the new center support bearing, make sure the old one is installed in the same orientation as the old one. I marked mine just to be sure. I used a pipe that was slightly larger than the driveshaft spline and a rubber mallet to push the bearing up the shaft and into place. A press was not needed.

    This time around, I made sure I had the center support bearing properly rotated before bolting it down. This made a huge difference in how the driveshaft sits, and tucks much better up in the tunnel.

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    Final look at both ends after bolting everything back down properly. When reinstalling the guibo, make sure the arrows on the outer ring are pointing towards a flange. That will ensure everything is oriented properly.

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    Hopefully this can help someone else avoid this very avoidable problem. At least both of the guibo and center support bearing are considered wear and tear items, so its nice to know there's fresh rubber in there.
    ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

  11. #61
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    Think the CSB being upside down created enough of an angle to be the reason the aluminum giubo retired early/quickly?
    1and1
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    One of my friends did this, I think it's a pretty common mistake. Oh well - live and learn!
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 1and1 Click here to enlarge
    Think the CSB being upside down created enough of an angle to be the reason the aluminum giubo retired early/quickly?
    Definitely. I doubt I would have had any issues with the aluminum guibo if the CSB were installed correctly. Not to say it wouldn't have inevitably failed, but definitely not that quickly without any real abuse.

    It also makes sense now as to why the aluminum guibo had failed at the 3 driveshaft flange connections and not at the 3 transmission flange connections.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by suspenceful Click here to enlarge
    One of my friends did this, I think it's a pretty common mistake. Oh well - live and learn!
    It's certainly happened before. While using the internet to troubleshoot, I ran across a thread on E90Post where someone had also installed the CSB upside down and was eating through guibos. His symptoms sounded identical to mine, so I suspected I'd probably done the same. Some of the long nights I pulled during the single turbo install had obviously affected my ability to pay attention to some small details.

    Yet another example of the N54 platform keeping me humble. The positives are that now that I've touched almost everything on this car, I have a much better understanding of how things are assembled/work in conjunction with one another.
    ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

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    Hmm, I've flipped the center support bearing as well but on the E90 the heat shields won't go back on so you figure out your mistake right away. Sounds like you can flip it on a 1 series and everything still goes back together I guess?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by KevinC39 Click here to enlarge
    Hmm, I've flipped the center support bearing as well but on the E90 the heat shields won't go back on so you figure out your mistake right away. Sounds like you can flip it on a 1 series and everything still goes back together I guess?
    Unfortunately so it seems, as I didn't notice anything hitting or rubbing, even with the CSB flipped. That would have certainly saved me trouble. At least none of the E90 guys will encounter this issue -- sounds like its reserved for us E92/E82 folks that aren't paying attention when we should be.
    ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

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    Since replacing the guibo and center support bearing with new OEM parts, the 135i has been an absolute pleasure to drive. All the NVH I'd been blaming on the SMFW was unwarranted. With a 950RPM idle, even with the AC on, there's no noise at idle, and from a take off, the MFactory SMFW feels better than my old worn out OEM DMFW. Revs are a cinch to match, the engagement point and stiffness of the Stage 2+ clutch is excellent, especially with the Ultimate Clutch Pedal.

    Now that I'd taken care of that problem, another had popped up. I had just been boasting recently about how I loved having a very modified single turbo car with no warning lights on the dash. The very next day, while in heavy rain, I received the Adaptive Headlight error warning. It had popped up a few times over the past few years, but went away. This one, however, was here to stay. I fully expected to find the seals on my back cover compromised and condensation in the lenses, but this was not the case. Both headlights were dry, the LUX modules were secured as to not interfere with the motors, and all the connections/ball joints were still in place. I was not interested in tracking down replacement parts for a function of the car I didn't use, and I'd also been considering hiring someone to remote code the car for some additional functionality, so I seized the opportunity to contact Joe at Top Gear Solutions to help me out. I'd worked with INPA before, but didn't feel comfortable with NCSExpert enough to attempt this one myself and mess something up.

    I already had the cable and a laptop dedicated to BMW Standard Tools, so the only thing else I needed to do was download Team Viewer (remote access software) and have a reliable internet connection. I made payment at almost 5pm EST, scheduled an appointment for the very next morning at 10am. For $89, I would be: coding out my AHL error, and adding auto close windows uninterrupted while opening door, disable key in ignition door chime, open/close windows and sunroof with fob, and display digital speed. At 10AM the next morning, I connected to the internet from outside, while I was at work I may add, I set everything up, turned the ignition on, and texted Joe the Team Viewer access code to let him know I was ready. Then I went back inside and continued with my work.

    Click here to enlarge

    Less than a half hour later, he texted me saying I was good to go. I went back out to the car, disconnected the computer, tested the functions, and was very happy that the giant intrusive AHL error was gone, I had the digital speedometer to look at, and added a few preference features to boot. Everything couldn't have went smoother. I highly recommend this remote service if you don't feel great about coding yourself.

    Click here to enlarge

    Along with the digital speedometer, you can also see my beloved 1er is about to roll over 115,000 miles on the odometer. To commemorate all these miles, I've started to ramp up the boost on high concentrations of E85. Click here to enlarge

    I've been keeping a close eye on my logs, and reviewing them with Payam (can't say enough great things about my experiences with this guy), as I've progressed up the single turbo JB4 map options. We started at map 2 on E50 fuel, and then map 3 on E60 fuel. You can find the log check thread on N54Tech if you feel like getting nerdy and like looking over numbers, but it's finally time to turn the car up to map 4. That 23psi map on E60 fuel is where I'll cap this project for the time being. This car has always been a daily, and I've also preferred longevity over raw power numbers, and that's why things have been overbuilt. Once I really dial in that 23psi map, I'll grab some videos, get some Dragy data, and hit up the dyno once again.

    Did I mention how fun this thing is to drive?!

    A small detail, but found a way to mount the MAC solenoid where it wasn't touching the ground stud of the car and didn't have to be zip tied down.

    Click here to enlarge

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    ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by chadillac2000 Click here to enlarge
    The positives are that now that I've touched almost everything on this car, I have a much better understanding of how things are assembled/work in conjunction with one another.
    How I feel after having a girlfriend for a while. You just know where everything is and what to press at what time.
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    I took advantage of the awesome weather this weekend to take the 135i on a small road trip up the Blue Ridge Parkway. This car gets plenty of action during the week on my long commute to work and back, but it felt good to take it through the paces on a long set of twisty roads I don't usually get to navigate. My wife, my dog Winston, and I sat off on Saturday morning in Asheville, NC -- elevation 2,314 feet -- and headed northeast into the Pisgah National Forest.

    After about an hour of switchback turns, we had made our way 4,460 feet up to Curtis Valley overlook where we stopped to grab a few pictures with the mountains in the background.

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    From there we continued past Mount Pisgah at 5,722 feet, before descending down to 3,268 feet as we reached Linville Falls, our final destination. While the aesthetics of this build were simple, I can't help but love the OEM+ look it has.

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    *non car-related content*

    We spent the next 5 hours hiking, taking in the views, and letting the dog swim around. Note the BimmerStreet N54 single turbo tee -- love this thing. I've worn it a lot, washed/dryed a bunch, and still feels excellent.

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    Then it was back in the driver's seat for another 2 hours on the Blue Ridge Parkway back home as we admired the sunset. On a few open stretches, I was even able to dial in the 23psi map I've been running.

    This daily driver is an absolute animal, as confirmed by the reaction from my wife (her first time riding with since the single turbo upgrade) the first time the open WG dumps roared, and can hold its own in the tight turns thanks to the minor suspension upgrades. Next up on the agenda is another oil change (3,000 miles comes around quick at the rate of usage this thing sees) and scheduling DynoJet appointment for sometime in September so I can get some new numbers.

    All in all, in the last 7 days, I've logged about 16 hours of driving and over 1,000 miles with zero hiccups. Let's hope this good luck continues, and all my maintenance will continue to pay off despite pushing probably close to double the stock power output.
    ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

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    Awesome post man!! How did the dog react to the pull? LOL
    Burger Motorsports
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Payam@BMS Click here to enlarge
    Awesome post man!! How did the dog react to the pull? LOL
    Thanks Payam! It's not the typical all-out racing related content most people post, but that's not what I typically use the car for.

    Winston, my 4 and a 1/2 year old border collie, has become quite good at balancing and doesn't seem to mind the crazy noises. The 6MT keeps him on his toes, as he has trouble judging when I'm getting off the throttle to shift, but he seems to love the challenge! He rode home with us at 10 weeks old in my modded E60 535i running E60 fuel and grew up riding in the backseat with his head out the rear window.

    Click here to enlarge

    He traveled with me from North Carolina to Virginia to buy the my current 135i, and quickly found a new spot to enjoy our drives together.



    Click here to enlarge
    ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

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    Winston is adorable man, I know exactly what you mean with the 6MT. My dog stumbles around too every gear shift, but he doesn't mind the pulls either haha.
    Burger Motorsports
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    That’s what’s it’s all about right there!!!!

    All the money, blood, sweat n tears become worth it for this kind of thing
    UK
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Payam@BMS Click here to enlarge
    Winston is adorable man, I know exactly what you mean with the 6MT. My dog stumbles around too every gear shift, but he doesn't mind the pulls either haha.
    He's been an absolute pleasure to have in our family. We invested the time to do a lot of training when he was a puppy, and that has paid off big time. He basically speaks English these days.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E92 420 Click here to enlarge
    That’s what’s it’s all about right there!!!!

    All the money, blood, sweat n tears become worth it for this kind of thing
    Yes it is! Makes all the hours and money invested completely worth it when you can hop in and take off without worrying about having problems.
    ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by chadillac2000 Click here to enlarge
    Winston, my 4 and a 1/2 year old border collie, has become quite good at balancing and doesn't seem to mind the crazy noises.
    My Bulldog Tank is also four and a half. He doesn't seem to mind the acceleration and noise too much. He usually just sleeps during car rides.

    Click here to enlarge
    Three sets of brand new 991.2 3.0 headers for sale: Kline, Fabspeed, and Vektor Ceramic Coated

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    Itís been multiple months and another 10,000+ miles of daily duty since my last update. Iíve continued my assault against the odometer, now at nearly 125,000 miles, and as usual, this 1er hasnít fussed about the abuse one bit. Several oil changes, a fresh set of NGK plugs, and plenty of E60+ fuel is all sheís asked for in return for her loyalty. Iíve also made a habit of getting Blackstone Laboratories to do an analysis every other change, and still getting stellar results with Motul X-Cess and a Mann filter; even when running higher concentrations of ethanol every single fill up.

    I finally felt I had the car dialed in properly and had been wanting to see what kind of power I was producing with all the new parts, so when Bimmer Performance Center in Raleigh, NC (about 4 hours away) announced their Fall Dyno Day on a Saturday I had free, I had all intentions of going. Unfortunately, a few days prior to the event, I was at a family memberís house when my 1er was involved in its first impact with another vehicle. I was parked on the street and a neighbor in a raised truck managed to back their truck hitch square in the middle of my M-sport front bumper. Luckily he stopped before wrecking any of the components underneath the bumper cover, but did manage to put a decent sized hole right in the center.

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    I was obviously disappointed about the damaged front bumper, but there was nothing Iíd be able to do before the event and it didnít have an effect on horsepower, so I still planned on attending. In addition to changing the oil and giving the car a good cleanup, I also wanted to swap out my spark plugs to ensure some clean pulls on their DynoJet. The 95770 NGK plugs were approaching 20,000 miles of use with no misfires to note, and considering thatís the high end of their life expectancy, it was time for 6 new ones. I was pleasantly surprised to see the condition of the old plugs were excellent with hardly any buildup of any kind.

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    The Delphi coils I switched to when I went single turbo had been performing great, but only 5 of the 6 made it out unscathed during this latest plug change. For the first time in my N54 career, I had a boot seize to the spark plug and come off the bottom of the coil. Using a pick and a set of long needle nosed pliers, I spent at least a half hour removing the rest of the rubber bits stuck in the galley until I could gain access to the plug itself. Iíll be buying one piece rubber coils in the future to avoid this problem with the Delphi.

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    Unfortunately I did not have another coil on hand and by this time on Friday most every auto store was closed in my area, so I was stuck. I considered getting up very early Saturday, and sourcing a coil locally, but when I awoke to a torrential downpour, I took it as a sign and abandoned the dyno day trip Iíd been looking forward to. Fortunately these are pretty easy to source nowadays locally at any Autozone or the like, so I was able to grab one later that day with a lifetime warranty. When reinstalling the new coil, I also used some dielectric grease to avoid future issues. Lesson learned.

    Following the coil debacle, I began searching for replacement front bumpers. Iíd enjoyed the look of the OEM M-Sport version combined with the durable Ikon front lip, but ultimately wanted to change up the styling to something else given the opportunity. After deciding that Iíd like to round out the BMW Performance theme I had going on in the rear on the sides, I made an order for the BMW Performance front bumper through Turner Motorsports with a 2 week advertised lead time. I was okay with the wait to get what I wanted. Fast forward 2 weeks Iím surprised to find the order status as cancelled when checking to see the shipping status. I was unhappy because I wasnít notified, but after talking with them for a while, it turns out the performance bumper is no longer available with anyone, even directly from Germany. This forced me to go with the 1M style that has built in air ducts. Not the end of the world, but not exactly what I wanted either. Regardless, it should look better than the previous setup and shouldnít look so out of place given the existing aero mods I already have installed. Plus the aggressiveness of this front end seems to be subdued when painted jet black.

    A few years ago, I posted about how Iíd come across an OEM BMW Performance rear carbon fiber diffuser on eBay for cheap, and purchased it despite the slight cracks and peeling clear coat.

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    I had a business contact repair the clear coat to where it was disguised much better than the picture below of how I originally received it, but the underlying crack has always been an eye sore for me.

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    So now that I was presented with having to get a bumper repainted, I also took the opportunity to repair the diffuser for good. Plus, the carbon fiber always looked a little out of place on my build considering itís the only CF piece on the entire car. Part of me wanted to keep a bit of the carbon fiber exposed, but I ultimately opted against that and chose the full Jet Black treatment. So, the morning the bumper was set to arrive, I removed the rear diffuser and decided to continue dailying the car despite a missing body component and dented front bumper. It pained me to see her this way, but knew it wouldnít be much longer before sheíd be looking better than ever.

    Click here to enlarge

    I dropped the diffuser, along with my existing headlight washer covers (I wasnít sure that the new bumper would include them or not so I wanted to have them painted), off at the body shop and told them to keep me updated once the bumper arrived. Much later in the day, I received a call asking if there were any other headlight washer covers that came with the bumper, as the OEM ones I provided were not fitting. After digging through the included accessories with the bumper, they were able to find the correct ones, but unfortunately they had sent two left hand side covers instead of a right and left. This should have been a huge red flag, but I chalked it up to a simple mistake. Through all my communications with Turner, they were convinced that incorrect accessories had been sent with the correct bumper and let me know it was highly unlikely the incorrect bumper was sent.

    The next morning I was able to stop by the paint booth to see what exactly was going on with these headlight washer covers and why they werenít fitting. As I rounded the corner into the back area, I see a beautifully painted front bumper in jet black sitting on a stand. As I got closer, devastation sat in as I had an epiphany of what had actually happened. The bumper Turner had sent, which had been sourced through ECS Tuning, was nowhere close to the E82 1M style front bumper Iíd ordered, or what the packing slip had indicated.

    Click here to enlarge

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    After doing some more research, it turns out Iíd been sent an MTech LCI front bumper for E92/E93 cars with PDC and headlight washers. Not even close to my original order and now it was too late to correct their mess up. After contacting Turner, they agreed to send out another front bumper right away to remedy the problem, and would physically verify this time that this was the correct part before it shipped out. Youíd think that would be standard, but I suppose not. As for the labor and materials cost associated with painting the bumper, they were not willing to help with any type of compensation with that -- citing that should have been my responsibility to make sure all parts fit prior to paint. Needless to say, I probably wonít be ordering anything else from Turner in the future.

    Finally, on the Sunday afternoon after Thanksgiving, over a month since the initial collision, I was ready to install the completed front bumper.

    On a separate note, over the past 6 months or so, Iíd also noticed that my front end had gotten too noisy for my liking. At low speeds on rough roads, I was getting clunks over bumps despite having triple checked every front suspension component was torqued properly. After closer inspection and process of elimination, I finally determined the culprit to be crumbling bump stops and aging front strut mounts. Iíd replaced nearly everything else, but these particular suspension components had 125,000 miles of abuse. So since Iíd have the 1er up in the air to replace the front bumper, I also wanted to install the fresh Meyle shock mounts, shorter E36 M3 short bump stops, and Febi dust boots at the same time to tighten things up and hopefully provide a quieter ride. It took a while, and was tedious to completely remove the front struts, disassemble, reassemble and reinstall, but it was well warranted and immediately resolved all the clunks and bottoming out of the front struts over big dips.

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    I didnít get many pictures of the installation of the ECS branded, Taiwanese made front bumper, but Iíd give it a 7 out of 10 overall. Fitment was pretty decent and didnít take that long to attach, but all the other components were mediocre at best. The air ducts on the passenger side were spot on, but the driverís side wasnít and required modification. The windshield wiper covers were cheap plastic and donít sit completely flush like the OEM version. The tow hook cover just wouldnít fit and I ended up using the old one off my OEM bumper which popped right in. My enormous FMIC meant that it took some extra massaging to make everything mate up underneath with no gaps. A few extra holes had to be drilled underneath so it could line up with the OEM undertray. When fully buttoned up, however, the finished product was definitely to my liking. Plenty of airflow to important places, a new aggressive front look, and some added clearance due to the lack of a lip. Plus with all the other aero pieces I have, the 1M style front fits right in. But enough talk. Here are some photos of the current look:

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    I've been running full E85 more and more often lately, and with the near 500 miles a week I put on this car, that means lots of fill ups. It also means a lot more time to take in the view.

    Click here to enlarge

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    ACF PTE 6062 BB Top Mount ST Kit, Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP, Phoenix Racing Port Injection Manifold + RACE FMIC, JB4 + BMS ST E85 PI BEF

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