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  1. #26
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    Anyone know what the torque spec is on the exhaust manifold studs and nuts? Also, anyone know if I should the removal able loc tite or antisieze on the exhaust manifold studs into the head?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Simmi15 Click here to enlarge
    There is a good aftermarket DP for the XI. I'm ordering CP-E kitty less this Friday
    Interesting.... I searched cp-e DP's and see a new XI offering (at least I hadn't seen before) for $649 and it says it's made by Burger tuning? It does say that it's for 135/335 but doesn't mention anything about 535 or direct replacement/fitment.

    sorry for going OT....

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by The Convert Click here to enlarge
    Anyone know what the torque spec is on the exhaust manifold studs and nuts? Also, anyone know if I should the removal able loc tite or antisieze on the exhaust manifold studs into the head?
    I can't find any info on the exhaust manifold studs but others suggest that it's similar to installing head studs where the stud torque doesn't matter as long as the stud bottoms out since the nut defines how tight it is anyway.

    The nut is 20nm this website suggests using copper antisieze but the bentley manual doesnt:
    http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...aust_manifold/

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by psychosinmylobby Click here to enlarge
    I can't find any info on the exhaust manifold studs but others suggest that it's similar to installing head studs where the stud torque doesn't matter as long as the stud bottoms out since the nut defines how tight it is anyway.

    The nut is 20nm this website suggests using copper antisieze but the bentley manual doesnt:
    http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...aust_manifold/
    Awesome! Thank you. I end d up using regular antisieze and just snugging the studs. Now I just need to torque the nuts down.

    edit: someone please rep him for me since I need to spread the love first. Please and thank you.

  5. #30
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    Reading this over I just really like these kinds of posts and threads. I really need to deliver a DIY section for you guys.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Reading this over I just really like these kinds of posts and threads. I really need to deliver a DIY section for you guys.
    That would be great!

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    3 out of 4 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    this DIY is better than anything I've seen on e90post. You should post it there. I'm starting to think this forum is more technical and more informative.

  8. #33
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    3 out of 4 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blkmz3 Click here to enlarge
    this DIY is better than anything I've seen on e90post. You should post it there. I'm starting to think this forum is more technical and more informative.
    1. That's because e90post is for stance fags and posers.
    2. No, he should not double post it over on e90post, because see number one.
    3. This site has always been the more technical and informative site. Nothing has changed in that regard, because see number one.

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blkmz3 Click here to enlarge
    this DIY is better than anything I've seen on e90post. You should post it there. I'm starting to think this forum is more technical and more informative.
    You must be new here...
    Welcome.
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  10. #35
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    Mmm, no reason to neg rep him...
    As long as he doen't repost this on strange forums...
    He's new here.
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

  11. #36
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    So I purchased a set of OEM turbos as I hit 102k and mine are howling. Seller told me they were replaced recently by dealer 10k miles ago. I looked everywhere and couldn't find any information on the p/n stamping or revision to determine these have the latest wastegate assembly. I know ECS sells the latest turbos. I'm going to have my indy shop guy check them out with vacuum for the rattle or play in the flapper.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BostonBeemah Click here to enlarge
    Really easy. I never understood why people remove the subframe when you can just take the passenger side motor mount out and you have all the room in world to work. Thats how I installed my single kit and removed the stock twins.
    I don't exactly agree with this statement. Yes, removing the motor mount creates some extra room if you leave the sub frame in. But removing the sub frame creates a whole new world of space to work from under the car compared to just removing the motor mount. Removing both, and you almost feel like working on the engine isn't that bad. Plus, removing the sub frame does not take that long, especially if you've done downpipes, and ever worked on suspension components before.

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 08_335i Click here to enlarge
    I don't exactly agree with this statement. Yes, removing the motor mount creates some extra room if you leave the sub frame in. But removing the sub frame creates a whole new world of space to work from under the car compared to just removing the motor mount. Removing both, and you almost feel like working on the engine isn't that bad. Plus, removing the sub frame does not take that long, especially if you've done downpipes, and ever worked on suspension components before.
    Im not disagreeing that removing the subframe will make the job a hell of a lot easier but for all intensive purposes, it is not necessary which some people claim. I also hope you haven't been removing the subframe to do downpipes unless its an XI which again can be done by just loosening the subframe and no need of completely removing it.
    2010 AW/BLK 135i VM 6465 Single Turbo w/ OCDworks Modified T51r Housing, JB4 + MHD, VRSF CP & Tial, Big Tom, Fuel-It PI + Stage 3 + Return + Ethanol Sensor, BMW PE, MFactory LSD, Spec 3+ & MFactory SMFW, RB External PCV, ADV sensors, and many more....
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  14. #39
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    On rhd you can leave sub frame, engine mount, intercooler, swaybar and just loosen steering rack bolts and leave it up there.

    You can pull those out but i havnt felt the need in 3 removals.

    Good detailed review.

    Should give a few ppl a bit more confidence.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BostonBeemah Click here to enlarge
    Im not disagreeing that removing the subframe will make the job a hell of a lot easier but for all intensive purposes, it is not necessary which some people claim. I also hope you haven't been removing the subframe to do downpipes unless its an XI which again can be done by just loosening the subframe and no need of completely removing it.
    *Intents and purposes. Just sayin.

  16. #41
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    Repped because I am installing my RR600 as we speak and I saved a lot of timing re-reading some parts of your DIY instead of browsing slowly in BMW's shop manual !!
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  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BostonBeemah Click here to enlarge
    Im not disagreeing that removing the subframe will make the job a hell of a lot easier but for all intensive purposes, it is not necessary which some people claim. I also hope you haven't been removing the subframe to do downpipes unless its an XI which again can be done by just loosening the subframe and no need of completely removing it.
    Never removed subframe for downpipes, now that would be excessive. But with the extensiveness of a single turbo install, I would never do it without removing the subframe. But its personal preference.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blkmz3 Click here to enlarge
    I'm starting to think this forum is more technical and more informative.
    Click here to enlarge


    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blkmz3 Click here to enlarge
    You should post it there.
    No he shouldn't. $#@! them.

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    i am about to tackle this job on my 135 with 85k miles and ordered the oil feed lines and all gaskets. had a few questions:

    1. good idea to replace the two oil return lines as well?
    2. Same for all 4 coolant lines coolant.
    3. are the studs and copper nuts reusable or should i expect to be extracting studs and replacing all studs and nuts?
    thanks

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by The Convert Click here to enlarge
    1. That's because e90post is for stance fags and posers.
    2. No, he should not double post it over on e90post, because see number one.
    3. This site has always been the more technical and informative site. Nothing has changed in that regard, because see number one.
    Repped.

  21. #46
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    @Sticky - I had to search to find this, but do we have it stickied anywhere yet? Until we get a DIY section, could you please put this on the top as a sticky item? I keep losing the page and having to re-find it...

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I think this DIY should also mention how long this would realistically take to do on your back especially if you didnt remove the subframe. As a BMW performance shop owner that has done this more times then you can imagine these diys make it seem like a few hours and your done. Anyone who is going to do this on jack stands know that your looking at a whole weekend atleast.
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  23. #48
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by trevorlee02 Click here to enlarge
    @Sticky - I had to search to find this, but do we have it stickied anywhere yet? Until we get a DIY section, could you please put this on the top as a sticky item? I keep losing the page and having to re-find it...
    Sticky it is...

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Did you completely remove the water pump and Tatar also do you need to replace manifold studs?

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    So for month Ive been trying to figure out how i was going to do this , and i chose this diy because i just dont want to go for an alignment afterwards...

    I have forever been a small block/big block kinda a guy , I work with generally with chevy or Olds v8's... And ive got to say... i could have the engine in and out of my oldsmobile 6 times in the time that it takes to get to the turbos on this 335.... I am struggling something fierce. But want to thank OP for the write up as it has helped.

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