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    • BMW 335xi with Tomioka Racing 16T N54 turbochargers making 523 awhp on 91 octane pump and 22 psi of boost

      These are some very impressive pump gas figures considering they come at a claimed 22 psi on 91 octane fuel from a 335xi running Tomioka Racing 16T N54 turbochargers. The output is 532 horsepower and 548 lb-ft of torque at all four wheels.


      These turbos certainly come late to the party and BimmerBoost does not have many Tomioka Racing results to point to.

      The numbers certainly are hard to argue with:


      The entire dyno graph was not posted for whatever reason which is somewhat suspect. The dyno type is a Dynocom and yes they have a reputation for reading high.

      The full modifications as stated are the 16T turbochargers, Cobb FMIC, VRSF inlets and outlets, Deatschwerks DW400 fuel pump, and a Radium catch can.

      Compressor Wheel Turbine Wheel Max Supported Power Turbo Inlet Size
      TR-TW2004 (15T) 42.0 mm 52.0 mm 720 HP 1.80 in
      TR-TW2005 (16T) 43.4 mm 52.0 mm 780 HP 1.80 in
      TR-TW2006 (19T) 46.0 mm 52.0 mm 830 HP 2.00 in

      This article was originally published in forum thread: BMW 335xi with Tomioka Racing 16T N54 turbochargers making 523 awhp on 91 octane pump and 22 psi of boost started by Sticky View original post
      Comments 19 Comments
      1. Eleventeen's Avatar
        Eleventeen -
        That seems really good for 16T turbos. Old MHI technology, and not all that big.
      1. fredcase's Avatar
        fredcase -
        I have these turbos. I’d like to see a log from that pull. What kind of timing is he running?

        i run about e25 and 23psi. Jb4 with race bef. I’m waiting for stage 2 lpfp before I add any more boost and hit the dyno.

        Got them at last years Christmas sale, $2000 usd, so far they have been great bang for the buck.
      1. Chris@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
        Chris@VargasTurboTech -
        Man, I need to convince Tony to buy a dynocom. The marketing opportunities are endless.
      1. fredcase's Avatar
        fredcase -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
        Man, I need to convince Tony to buy a dynocom. The marketing opportunities are endless.
        i didn’t buy them based on their inflated horsepower numbers on the website. I don’t believe 22psi is achievable on 91 either, but, I do believe 22psi would land around 500hp

        aren't these basically GC lites V1.0

        16T with 11blade turbine? Didn’t you guys post similar numbers on GC lite’s?
      1. Sticky's Avatar
        Sticky -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fredcase Click here to enlarge
        i didn’t buy them based on their inflated horsepower numbers on the website. I don’t believe 22psi is achievable on 91 either, but, I do believe 22psi would land around 500hp

        aren't these basically GC lites V1.0

        16T with 11blade turbine? Didn’t you guys post similar numbers on GC lite’s?
        What is your output considering you are running more boost with some ethanol splashed in?
      1. fredcase's Avatar
        fredcase -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
        What is your output considering you are running more boost with some ethanol splashed in?
        not sure, I haven’t dyno’d yet. Like I said above, I want to add a LPFP, a little more E, and a little more boost before I dyno. (I’m still stock LPFP).

        I have log dyno numbers between 460-520. Butt dyno says 480ish
      1. 135idct's Avatar
        135idct -
        what's the IAt? also timing..also this is just a number, the real test 60-130 Click here to enlarge
      1. Antho303T's Avatar
        Antho303T -
        Sorry for the thread revival. I'm the guy who tune this car. The reason why the graph stop at 6000rpm is just becauce the tranny wasn't flashed at that time. I was able to make a lot more low end torque but I didn't want to see a rod coming off the block. The car only run on 91oct. For those who say the dyno read to high, here is a 335Xi LCI on the same dyno in stock form. I've also compare the TR turbo kit with the MMP-e 1K on my dyno.The 1K was running at around 18-19psi with 94oct fuel and the 16T on 21-22psi on 91oct.

        On both car I was able to put 500lbs at 3500rpm but I've capped the torque to lower the chance of engine failure. I also put the 16T in my own E61 XI and TR will post numbers in April when I have time to work on the tune.I also need to let peolple know that the are not easy to install on XIcar. The downpipe doens't fit well. The oil return line of both turbo are a PITA to fit. On my 535XI it was worst. We've built custom oval tube downpipes to keep them in 3in, the rear turbo coolant line need to be modded a lot. The 335 line doesn't fit. For me, they are great turbo for the price. Power band is the best I've had here and I've tested pretty much all brand of turbo kit on the N54 platform. Only downside for me is the fitment on the XI. As we have around 80% of AWD car here in east Canada, it can be an issue for DIY guy. On a RWD car, it's a walk in the park job. Hope it clear some question you might have.
      1. Antho303T's Avatar
        Antho303T -
        For those who want to see a log.
        Here is the log from the sheet posted earlier this year.
        Timing at peak torque is around 1deg. Intake air temps wasn't log on that pull as we are limited on the amount of parameter we can record at the same time and I already know the max air temp I got that day. +- 122f was the hotter temps recorded that day. On the dyno and the street.
        You'll see 21psi for the max boost but the MAP is rescaled by 2psi to be able to work at a higher boost than the DME can normaly work with.

        Sorry for the crappy pic:
        Attachment 60129
      1. Antho303T's Avatar
        Antho303T -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Antho303T Click here to enlarge
        Sorry for the thread revival. I'm the guy who tune this car. The reason why the graph stop at 6000rpm is just becauce the tranny wasn't flashed at that time. I was able to make a lot more low end torque but I didn't want to see a rod coming off the block. The car only run on 91oct. For those who say the dyno read to high, here is a 335Xi LCI on the same dyno in stock form. I've also compare the TR turbo kit with the MMP-e 1K on my dyno.The 1K was running at around 18-19psi with 94oct fuel and the 16T on 21-22psi on 91oct.

        On both car I was able to put 500lbs at 3500rpm but I've capped the torque to lower the chance of engine failure. I also put the 16T in my own E61 XI and TR will post numbers in April when I have time to work on the tune.I also need to let peolple know that the are not easy to install on XIcar. The downpipe doens't fit well. The oil return line of both turbo are a PITA to fit. On my 535XI it was worst. We've built custom oval tube downpipes to keep them in 3in, the rear turbo coolant line need to be modded a lot. The 335 line doesn't fit. For me, they are great turbo for the price. Power band is the best I've had here and I've tested pretty much all brand of turbo kit on the N54 platform. Only downside for me is the fitment on the XI. As we have around 80% of AWD car here in east Canada, it can be an issue for DIY guy. On a RWD car, it's a walk in the park job. Hope it clear some question you might have.
        I'm not sure why my pictures was removed but here we go again:

        Attachment 60130
        Attachment 60131
      1. Rob@RBTurbo's Avatar
        Rob@RBTurbo -
        Identical product (same manufacturer, same machining, same parts, same assembly) to GC Lites v1.0.
      1. Chris@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
        Chris@VargasTurboTech -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo Click here to enlarge
        Identical product (same manufacturer, same machining, same parts, same assembly) to GC Lites v1.0.
        This is actually incorrect. Many things are actually different from these compared to our V1's. Not going to waste time explaining what is different as we have not sold those V1's for going on 4 years so the point is moot.
      1. Rob@RBTurbo's Avatar
        Rob@RBTurbo -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
        This is actually incorrect. Many things are actually different from these compared to our V1's. Not going to waste time explaining what is different as we have not sold those V1's for going on 4 years so the point is moot.
        It is very correct but we very much understand that you only know what you are told... and by whom you are told it. But indeed a couple/few ago years you all dumped Zage (the manufacturer) on this one, and some other vendors (ie. Tomioka) took the USA reins.

        Rob
      1. fredcase's Avatar
        fredcase -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo Click here to enlarge
        It is very correct but we very much understand that you only know what you are told... and by whom you are told it. But indeed a couple/few ago years you all dumped Zage (the manufacturer) on this one, and some other vendors (ie. Tomioka) took the USA reins.

        Rob
        and sold them for 30% less
      1. nbrigdan's Avatar
        nbrigdan -
        Vendor pissing match, begin!
      1. Chris@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
        Chris@VargasTurboTech -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo Click here to enlarge
        It is very correct but we very much understand that you only know what you are told... and by whom you are told it. But indeed a couple/few ago years you all dumped Zage (the manufacturer) on this one, and some other vendors (ie. Tomioka) took the USA reins.

        Rob
        No. Across the board. Probably apply this to the next thing you write too, unless you ask me if VTT turbos are better than RB.

        xoxo,
        Chris

        P.S. Happy New Year Rob.
      1. fredcase's Avatar
        fredcase -
        I bought a set of 16t Tomioka's, 10% off 2018 Christmas sale. (I am aware these are zage)

        Why? (in approximate order of importance)

        -The V-band that separates the upper and lower portion, i'm guessing is going to save about 4hrs on a 16hr swap If they fail. Also saving money on parts required when doing a turbo swap. Gaskets, clamps, nuts, studs, ect

        -They Use generic TD04 16T parts. No custom stuff. I can easily, replace, rebuild and send for balance if they fail.

        -Tomioka actually has a pretty good reputation in the subie world.

        -Price, they are pretty much VTT GC lite's V1, and those are a crap shoot for reliability, so, at 2/3 the price, while minimizing the time and cost associated with failure, over other one piece turbos.

        -They are going on my e92 rwd MT. So this my summer toy car. It's not the end of the world if its down for a few weeks if they fail. I still have a 2019 custom trail boss as a daily. Basically, I bought these expecting them to fail. I have a nice clean, well lit garage, with lots of tools, and enjoy wrenching. (occasionally) If I have to pull these every season because racecar, I'm fine with this.

        -Power to Cost ratio. I strongly considered making my own Stage 1.5 turbos. So much research, time, and effort to save $1000 and maybe break 500hp? I also considered a set of RB's, but, for extra power, lower cost and ease of replacement, I decided on these.


        15000km on them now, have seen up to 23psi, no problems yet.
      1. Rob@RBTurbo's Avatar
        Rob@RBTurbo -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
        No. Across the board. Probably apply this to the next thing you write too, unless you ask me if VTT turbos are better than RB.

        xoxo,
        Chris

        P.S. Happy New Year Rob.
        Chris,

        I do believe you are an honest and good remote-PR guy. Would like to emphasize remote because being states away you really are the mercy of being kept abreast of everything, which you obviously are spoon fed only what sounds appealing to pass along to the masses. Not surprising considering the source. On that note I've been reading up on some of your S55 stuff recently, and have realized nothing has really changed over there. Same $#@!, different day/platform. Basically the same problems, same cover ups, same minimizing, same lack of reality/accountability; but you indeed do a great job smoothing it over.

        As for the new year let us hope you get that promotion to VP of Online Damage Control Operations, lord knows you deserve it, and the organization within certainly needs formed.

        Rob
      1. Rob@RBTurbo's Avatar
        Rob@RBTurbo -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fredcase Click here to enlarge
        I bought a set of 16t Tomioka's, 10% off 2018 Christmas sale. (I am aware these are zage)

        Why? (in approximate order of importance)

        -The V-band that separates the upper and lower portion, i'm guessing is going to save about 4hrs on a 16hr swap If they fail. Also saving money on parts required when doing a turbo swap. Gaskets, clamps, nuts, studs, ect

        -They Use generic TD04 16T parts. No custom stuff. I can easily, replace, rebuild and send for balance if they fail.

        -Tomioka actually has a pretty good reputation in the subie world.

        -Price, they are pretty much VTT GC lite's V1, and those are a crap shoot for reliability, so, at 2/3 the price, while minimizing the time and cost associated with failure, over other one piece turbos.

        -They are going on my e92 rwd MT. So this my summer toy car. It's not the end of the world if its down for a few weeks if they fail. I still have a 2019 custom trail boss as a daily. Basically, I bought these expecting them to fail. I have a nice clean, well lit garage, with lots of tools, and enjoy wrenching. (occasionally) If I have to pull these every season because racecar, I'm fine with this.

        -Power to Cost ratio. I strongly considered making my own Stage 1.5 turbos. So much research, time, and effort to save $1000 and maybe break 500hp? I also considered a set of RB's, but, for extra power, lower cost and ease of replacement, I decided on these.


        15000km on them now, have seen up to 23psi, no problems yet.
        All good reasons, nothing wrong with that.

        But if one were to fail more than likely it is going to take out the entire CHRA (as seems to be the norm with these), so those Off the Shelf parts will do you no good as you will need an entirely new CHRA. And from what I recall cost-wise, Zage is pretty proud of their complete CHRA's (ie. ~$800 each). All in all though, buying them direct from Tomioka is the way to go, better product/housings than the VTT GC 2.0's IMO, from metallurgy to machining. Would DEFINITELY ONLY purchase the TD04L versions and steer FAR clear of the TD04HL version, as that wheel is far too great of a size for these housings.

        Rob