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  • Aus335iGuy's Avatar
    02-18-2018, 04:33 AM
    Aus335iGuy started a thread DCT FTW in N54
    News just to hand Jayamona@motiv has managed to find and alter some of the tables in the N54 DME and essentially N54 DCTs will soon have launch control with user selectable launch RPMs. Other platforms on MHD as well (yes you poor deprived N55ers) It will be out before the north American summer i hope with other “goodies”. Next One particularly savvy tuner PureEvilN54 has divulged how to set the ignition tables in the DME to provide anti lag (this has been seen here before its just that hes shared it with others Another great development is that we now know that we can flash M3 GTS software to N54 DCTs. You need the GWS unit and some flashing and coding This means we can change shift severity on the fly because drivelogic works(you need the button) You lose launch control but you gain another thing and that is if you use the M3 ZB file you can also use any M3 final drive ratio. DCTs will soon be the fastest n54s...
    37 replies | 700 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    02-20-2018, 02:45 PM
    Not talking smack just saying, wow, this stuff is like art:
    29 replies | 670 view(s)
  • Chris@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    02-19-2018, 11:29 AM
    Hey guys, I am happy to be back here on BimmerBoost to share new products, results, and answer technical questions -always a good idea to have a forum presence and that's what I'm here for. Let's jump right back into it. 2018 has quite a few VTT products being released, but here is a taste of what's coming in the N54 world: GC REBOOT Let's get started with the GC Reboot! We took our already potent GC line up, and did a ground-up redesign, getting rid of some things we didn't like and adding things we wanted to improve. Key Features of the GC 2.0 reboot are as follows: • 100% designed, and cast for VTT: this is not a partnership with any other company • All new castings with VTT logos front and center • D5S Ni resist material is used throughout the hot side. This includes Turbine housings as well as manifolds. • All-New Compressor housings with ribbed inlets to ensure a secure fit from inlet to housing. • Single piece V-band clamp connection from turbine housing to manifold sized to fit Tial Clamps. No more awkward two-piece clamps to install. • Our single biggest improvement is the casting of our proprietary turbine wheels in Garrett GT28 profile with a TD04HL shaft to fit the existing GC family bearing housing. Wheels are cast from Inconel 713L. This eliminates the industry-wide TD04HL 9 blade wheel failure problem while improving wheel Aero; better spool and more flow. • Same as before, both Full sized GC’s, and GC Lites will be available. • Rebooted pricing. With all these improvements the GC line up will cost less when released, NOT more. • ESTIMATED AVAILABILITY DATES o Late Q1 2018 with special intro pricing on website for GC’s and GClites ALUMINUM CHARGE PIPE Next up we have our new VTT Aluminum charge pipes. We have heard many stories of silicone charge pipe issues. While they work perfectly well when installed correctly, the number of install issues lead us to create more durable aluminum charge pipes that share the increased flow capability of the silicone units. Key Features of the VTT aluminum charge pipes are as follows: • High flow Y connection to merge both banks • No more melted outlets from install too close to the manifold • Available in factory V-band connections, and 1.5” hose connection to fit GC turbos • Available in 335LHD, 135/535/Z4 these will NOT fit RHD (sorry guys) • Hard powder coated black • ESTIMATED AVAILABILITY DATES o Q1 2018 (end) VTT SINGLE KIT Next, we have what most will see as a departure from the usual VTT philosophy, but we felt it was time to give the N54/N55 platform another option in the popular single turbo section. We still love twins but sometimes you just want a quick-spooling high flow single. We got you covered. :D Introducing the VTT Cast Manifold V-Band Twin Scroll Bottom Mount Single Turbo line up. Please note while we have been working on this for a while and have many parts cast, these are not expected to be released until late spring or summer 2018. Also, note the pictures are representative of our “blank” manifold casting. Our fabricator is adding O2 bungs, and EWG flanges for the N54, and EWG kits. The N55 kits using IWG turbos will use the blank manifold as no O2 bungs or EWG flanges are needed. Key Features of the VTT V-Band Bottom Mount Single Turbo Kits are as follows: • Industry-first true twin scroll bottom mount kit using V-BAND connection for ease of install • EWG and IWG kits will be available. IWG kits will use FACTORY boost control. No need for add-on boxes, or Mac Solenoids • Competitive pricing • Fitment for N54 and N55 (N55 details to be posted in N55 section soon!) • JB and DBB options will be available • Manifold cast from Ni-Resist D5S • GENUINE Garrett turbochargers used for DBB optioned kits • Ball Bearing Turbo choices for N54 will include: o Gen2 GTX3076R (600WHP) o Gen 2 GTX3582R(700WHP) o GTX3584RS(850WHP) (3076, 3582 available in IWG, or EWG. 3584RS EWG only) • Journal Bearing Turbo choices for the N54 will include o GTX3076 sized Journal bearing turbo with IWG control • ESTIMATED AVAILABILITY DATES o N54 EWG kits end of Q2 2018 o N54 IWG kits Q3 2018 VTT SHOP CAR PROGRESS Not really an announcement, just a little hint of some cool stuff we're doing. A couple teaser pics of the shop white car, which ran 172.9x in the 1/2 mile. When we did that (nearly a year ago) the car had GC's on her, was full weight and Tony was rowing the gears. Time to step it up a notch. Below is a pic of some serious turbos, double overdriven hpfp's, and enough instrumentation to keep getting the data we need to push limits. Personally I'm very excited about seeing this progress, and looking forward to keeping you guys posted on this one.
    17 replies | 749 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    02-20-2018, 12:07 PM
    This is a battle we have all been waiting to see. The Audi RS7 4.0 TFSI V8 gets a ton of credit and deservedly so. There were those who mocked Audi for providing the smallest twin turbo V8 in last generation's mid-size sport sedan market yet Audi's potent mill proved to be the strongest tune only despite its displacement disadvantage. Amusingly, Mercedes-AMG went to a similar style V8 for the new W213 E63 yet it isn't as strong with a tune as the now old RS7. Obviously, the 4.0 TFSI is stout with RS7's running 10.2's in the 1/4 mile at 133+ which is the stock turbo record in the USA. The RS3 is already beating that. Easily. The little brother barely entered the market and is already kicking ass and taking names. Now what is interesting in the video here is you have an RS7 on upgraded Garrett turbochargers. You will notice there are not really any successful upgraded turbo RS7's running around and this RS7 is said to still be under development. The RS3 has a big turbo setup from Iroz on E85. What happens? The RS3 spanks it. The guy in the RS7 needs his eyes checked if he thinks that was close. Say what you want about having a V8 carrying 1000 less pounds makes a huge difference. So does that dual clutch transmission in the RS3. From a 35 mph roll it's ugly too. The RS3 runs away. Why haven't big turbo RS7's shown well? Who knows. Big turbo RS3's are already crushing them though and it's not likely to get any closer from here on out as 2.5 TFSI tuning accelerates.
    17 replies | 135 view(s)
  • suspenceful's Avatar
    Yesterday, 12:06 PM
    If you're already following my build/channel, thanks! But if not, I wanted to share this info here because I think it'll be helpful to anyone interested in port injection. I describe in detail why I switched kits and what to look out for if you're considering port injection on your N54 or N55.
    14 replies | 248 view(s)
  • chadillac2000's Avatar
    02-22-2018, 04:36 PM
    After much deliberation, reviewing countless threads across multiple forums, and mapping out every step of what was involved with swapping turbos, I just couldn’t overcome the scenario of going through all the labor of replacing my twin turbos with another set of twin turbos only to discover a failure or wastegate rattle shortly down the road. The GC Lites I had in my possession prior may have ended up not failing, but there were multiple confirmed cases of defective turbines within that lineup with no real clarification on what happened. That personally shook my confidence in the whole situation the second go around. A failure of that magnitude after investing the time and money of tackling that type of install would be heartbreaking, and not something I was willing to risk if at all possible. Even if the turbos were warrantied, the labor involved would be incredible, and if they’d failed once, what’s to say they wouldn’t again? Looking past the twin turbos themselves, silicone inlets and outlets were both areas of concern of mine. The thought of the miserable install associated with 2” driver’s side inlets plus the worry of manifold heat melting the silicone outlets were the straw that broke the camel’s back. Since back when I owned my 535i, I had ambitions of adding a top mount single turbo to an N54 equipped E82, and it was time to make that happen. A twin scroll bottom mount seemed like a nice alternative to going all out top mount, but o2 sensors seemed to be even more at risk and I’d still have difficult reaching the turbo if anything ever needed addressed. Plus when I was shopping, there hadn’t been much long term feedback on any of the newer kits. After getting in touch with a few different vendors, I eventually settled on a top mount single kit from ACF featuring a Precision 6062 Ball Bearing Gen2 turbocharger (with a polished compressor as the only option). I decided to forego the ceramic coating and recirculated dump pipes to keep costs in check, and because I prefer open dumps and planned on using DEI exhaust wrap anyways. Ultimately I went with ACF because a) I liked the ACF manifold design & downpipe sizes the best out of all the top mount kits, b) it seemed to include more robust components more than the Docrace alternative, and c) was slightly more affordable than others with a ball bearing option coming in at less than $5,000. The 6062 configuration with ACF’s proven twin scroll manifold should provide super-quick spool and as much power as my fuel system can throw at it. Plus if things go awry with the turbo, it’s right up top and easily serviceable. Of course single turbos come with their own set of heat problems, but hopefully I can counteract that with carefulness. Once my mind was made up, Anthony & Payam quickly answered the few remaining questions I had, gave me a two week lead time, and I made payment soon after. ACF has been subject to criticism with how quickly they can get a kit in your hands, but I wasn’t in a huge hurry and had made up my mind to put my faith in Anthony’s ability to deliver. So how accurate was that two week lead time? From the time I made payment to the time it was put in the mail was 21 days. I’m on the other side of the country from Anthony, so including shipping it took a total of 28 days from payment until I had everything in hand and it was well worth it. I’ll let the pictures and video do the talking, but the craftsmanship is truly impressive to see in person. In the meantime, I had a lot of other areas that I wanted to address and parts I needed to order. First and foremost, was my clutch and flywheel combo. I had managed to take my 135i over the one hundred thousand mile mark (fifty thousand of that tuned on E85 at close to 20psi) and my stock DMFW and clutch were still holding up just fine. Back when I had new hybrids in hand, I had planned on a new DMFW + 335is/550i clutch to keep things simple with a stock feel, but ultimately it was destined to die a quick life at my intended single turbo power levels. I hated the idea of the increased noise and NVH of a SMFW, but hated the idea of misfires even more, so cue up the trusted MFactory Steel SMFW. I was however, curious about the performance advantages of installing a lightweight flywheel and how it affected feel when rev matching. If it was better than the heavy DMFW in that regards, I could come around to enjoy the SMFW idea quickly. The Spec Stage 2+ clutch seemed to be the best bet for a daily driven car around the 550TQ mark, and would last longer than the slightly stronger 3+. Unfortunately, jumping to any of the Spec + options, meant it was a much more expensive setup, but a necessary one. Add in flywheel bolts, pressure plate screws, a brass clutch fork pivot pin, an OEM clutch alignment tool and a service kit with new fluids/plugs, and I was looking at another $1450 on top of the ST kit to transfer all the new power efficiently. I already had MHD on hand to try and combat the SMFW rattle, so I could raise the idle to counteract this somewhat. In fact, I’d been experimenting with my stock clutch/flywheel by raising the idle to 950RPM for a few months prior. A lot of people are hesitant to do this for some reason, but besides the slightly louder idle decibels, on a 6MT, the car idles smoother and engages the clutch easier as the RPMs aren’t dipping so low. This should in theory make the Spec 2+ easier to engage while eliminating the majority of the unwanted noise. There was also the issue of single turbo kits and their tendency of killing standard o2 sensors prematurely because of the increased pressure and heat. $425 to avoid these headaches with the ADV o2 sensors. More boost required a 3.5 BAR TMAP + BMS adapter, another $125. My standard 7” upgraded FMIC from VRSF would no longer keep IATs in check during the hot South Carolina summers, so add in the humongous Phoenix Race FMIC, another $500. It only made sense to do bunch of maintenance items at the same time since I’d be dropping the subframe and have access to some items I wouldn’t normally have access to (and hadn’t done already). These would include: OEM engine mounts (I opted to not go with the 335is or 034 Motorsport versions and just stick with stock), an oil pan gasket & bolts, downpipe gasket & bolts, rear main seal, a rear shaft seal for my differential that has been seeping some fluid, oil level sensor o-ring, a fresh set of NGK 95770 plugs and Delphi coils, Motul 5W40 and a Mann filter, a budget walnut blast setup, BMW coolant and new aluminum water pump bolts. Another $860. Add in an engine support bar, a few specialty tools, the aluminum BMW Performance strut brace for bling that I bought for a decent price on eBay, supplies to heat wrap the ACF top mount kit hot side components properly and my total money spent on going single turbo tallied to more than $9,100 without any custom tuning and performing all the labor myself. The price of going single turbo the right way IS NOT for the faint of heart by any means. I was once told between cheap, fast, and reliable, you can only have two. I chose the two latter options. Here’s my total cost breakdown below, every single penny: ACF 6062BB Top Mount Single Turbo Kit with polished compressor housing - $5000.00 ACF ADV o2 Sensors - $425.00 CHRIS Phoenix Race FMIC - $499.01 N54TUNING 3.5 BAR TMAP Sensor - $89.39 ECS TMAP Adapter - $32.50 BMS Downpipe Gaskets - $25.90 ECS Stainless Tie Wraps - $16.67 AMAZON DEI Exhaust Wrap - $44.88 AMAZON 6 FT of DEI Heat Protection Sleeving - $52.58 AMAZON DOCRace Single Turbo Heat Shield - $120.00 DOCRACE Exhaust Manifold Studs x16 - $15.84 ECS Exhaust Manifold Nuts x 11 - $38.50 ECS Exhaust Gaskets - $23.94 ECS Intake Gaskets - $15.95 ECS Throttle Body Gasket - $9.89 ECS 335D Intake Duct - $39.68 ECS Replacement Coolant Pipe & Oil Supply O-rings - $33.51 ECS MFactory Steel SMFW - $515.36 ECS Spec Clutch 2+ = $809.10 TOPGEAR Manual Transmission Service Kit - $42.58 ECS Clutch Alignment Tool - $25.58 ECS ECS Clutch Fork Pivot Pin - $34.95 ECS Pressure Plate Screws - $11.28 ECS Aluminum Bolt Set for Bellhousing - $10.95 ECS 8 Flywheel Bolts - $22.40 ECS OEM Flywheel Lock Tool - $53.89 FCPEuro OEM Engine Mounts & Bolts - $174.98 ECS Oil Change Kit - $74.44 ECS Delphi OEM Coils - $278.52 ECS NGK 95770 - $79.13 AMAZON BimmerHelp Blasting Attachment & Wand - $68.50 BIMMERHELP Harbor Freight Walnut Blasting Supplies - $78.78 HARBOR FREIGHT Amazon Engine Support Bar - $56.99 AMAZON BMW Coolant/Water Pump Bolts - $35.62 ECS Rear Crankshaft Seal - $34.61 ECS Oil Pan Bolt Set - $29.12 ECS Oil Pan Gasket - $41.21 ECS Rear Shaft Seal - $12.25 ECS Oil Level Sensor O-Ring - $6.39 ECS Redline Power Steering Fluid - $11.49 ECS OEM BMW Performance Aluminum Strut Brace - $150.00 EBAY TOTAL = $9,141.36 To put that in perspective, I could probably buy a 335i in decent condition for that kind of coin. That also means on top of the $5,000 cost of the complete single turbo kit, it took over $4,100 in accompanying mods to get everything else up to par in my eyes, and I already had a decent amount of those components necessary to go single turbo installed prior to all of this like the JB4 + MHD, stage 2 LPFP, upgraded charge pipe, Tial BOV with upgraded vacuum source, Index 12 injectors, etc. I can probably net close to $1,500 from selling my existing twin turbo setup parts to help offset costs somewhat, but is still an enormous investment. So what does dropping over nine thousand dollars on your N54 equipped ride get you? A lot, actually. Before I began to totally tear the car apart for the extraordinary amount of work I was about to embark on, I thought it would be beneficial to have some baseline readings. Just a few weeks earlier I’d discovered that there was small performance shop just a few miles away equipped with a Dynojet. It only made sense to make an appointment and get some baseline numbers on the stock twins. It only took getting into boost once before we realized we needed to add a few extra straps. These two runs were on E40 fuel on the E85 BMS BEF on map 7. My poor, tired, and smoking turbos were targeting around 19.7psi for both runs, but were only managing to hit around 17psi and tapering off to around 14psi near redline. As instructed by Terry over on N54Tech, these runs were done in 4th gear from 2,000 to 7,000 RPM. Smoothing is set to 5. I did notice where correction was set to SAE, instead of the STD Terry suggested. Run 1 was the run I spun the tires, run 2 resulted in 395HP & 406TQ, run 3 resulted in 393HP & 407TQ. I drove the car straight back to the garage where the single turbo conversion and got to work. I already had all the new parts to go in, as well as all the tools I’d need, neatly laid out. I started with a wide open space so I could sprawl out a bit. Using the impressive Esco jacks I recently picked up, I was able to get the car high up off the ground, since I’d be spending plenty of time underneath it over the next few weeks. And because I wanted to use a creeper, so some extra clearance was needed. Back in the summer of 2016 as the 135i was about to turn over 60,000 miles, I was forced to replace the aging Michelin Pilot Sport tires that I bought the car with. Because I drive my car so much, longevity was just as important as performance for me. I spent a few days digging through TireRack reviews before deciding on the 235/265 Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 combo with a 320 treadwear rating. Over the next 18 months and 42,500 miles, I put these tires through the ringer as they took on daily driving duties in every condition imaginable: 100+ degree summers, torrential downpours, 10 degree winters, snow-covered side roads, spirited driving through mountain twisties, and multiple 400+ HP/TQ pulls on dry pavement. Usually when tires last this long, they don’t do much for performance, but Hankook was able to find a very nice happy medium with these. Maybe it’s a testament to my suspension, wheel/tire setup, alignment, and driving style, but the wear pattern on the front and rears were pretty even across the board. The fronts probably had 10,000 miles left of life in them. My only complaint would be when running lower pressures, these did seem to flatspot when left sitting for a few days that would take a few minutes of driving to clear up. Near the end of the life of the tires, the old TPMS also began to show up as inactive from time to time and the impending warning code was driving me crazy. When it came time to start searching for replacements, and new TPMS sensors, I was very tempted to just repurchase another set of the V12 evo2s, but another tire claiming an even better 340 treadwear rating and garnering a lot of praise online ultimately won me over: the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s. I ordered the same 235/365 sizes as before, and as they always do, Tire Rack had them in my possession within a few days. Luckily I was able to stretch the life of my previous Hankooks out until this single turbo teardown, so I can have the old tires taken off and the new ones mounted/balanced in the meantime. I also prefer to take off the wheels myself, and mount them back to the vehicle myself once the new rubber is installed. The more I can reduce the amount of times someone other than me wrenches on my car, the better, especially with stuff I don’t want terribly over-torqued or scratched up. I can’t wait to stop staring at these and actually get them mounted up. Since I knew I was going to be installing the massive Phoenix Race FMIC that requires a lot of cutting of the plastic front shroud, off came the front bumper. Now I had a full view of the existing 7” VRSF FMIC I’d been running for the past year or so. Out came all the lower splash guards, plastic intake ducting out, and radiator fan so I could gain access to the t-bolt clamps on the FMIC. After loosening the t-bolt clamps and removing the two aluminum screws holding the FMIC in place, it dropped out easily. Now I was ready to start unbolting some of the components in the engine bay to gain full access to the intake valves as a walnut blast was the first order of business. The Mishimoto OCC hooked up to the RB external PCV in order to remove the front inlet, charge pipe and air filters. Strut bars, BMS OCC, throttle body and all associated intake piping removed. Vacuum canisters gone, front MMP inlet out.
    11 replies | 208 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    02-20-2018, 08:07 PM
    Well, since I sold my custom exhaust when going turbo that left me in a bit of a problem as we're going back to a stock internal supercharged setup. The solution? ARH or American Racing Headers full system: I'm particularly interested in the headers: Went catless with no resonators. We'll see what the car sounds like and dynos maybe as early as this week. Go big or go home, right?
    11 replies | 107 view(s)
  • Medicineman843's Avatar
    02-19-2018, 03:26 PM
    I Won a Ported n54 Head Off ebay ( For more than a steal of a price) and its been collecting dust in my closet and I thought Why not while doing this tedious Install. Will be Taking to get Magnafluxed at local shop for inspection. What else i should check or fix while im that far in the engine. Needed?? (Alpine b3 S biturbo head gasket) ARP Studs? or advice on other brand? 09 335i LCi 6Mt E90 70K miles Will be Soon Installing a Doc Racing Kit With a Garrett GT4088R BB Twin scroll in next few Weeks. current Mods- Wagner Intercooler, Cat less DP , ADE Oil catch Can, BMS Intakes, CPE Charge Pipe , Tial BOV -10 Spring, MHD BEF (Pump Flash) with JB4 (latest software)
    10 replies | 161 view(s)
  • Datsaabguy570's Avatar
    02-20-2018, 03:20 PM
    Howdy folks name's Ryan. im a euro fanatic and tuner my father and bestfriend are now taunting me as they both have purchased n54 powered machines one being a 08 335i the other being a 08 135i. i feel very strongly on OTS maps and refuse to have them pay out the wazoo for a paper weight i've fixed plenty of subaru's and Evo's as well as Saabs. so i started reading and seeing which device i'll need to gather a connection to the ecu but i haven't seen anything for software i'm interested in poking around a stock file to see how this is going to be looking for me if anyone could point me in the right direction it would be beyond appreciated hoping i could possibly make a write up for someone as myself and other's that may come in handy :D please excuse me if i have something right in front of my face and don't realize it lol thanks everyone in advance hopefully i'll be purchasing a 335i in the near future :awesome:
    9 replies | 154 view(s)
  • stoneyhrm's Avatar
    02-21-2018, 01:37 PM
    Sorry if this is a commonly asked thread. I'm not a car guy (roommate is though), but I've been searching on what to do first and it seems there's so many options for everything. This is my daily car, so I don't want to do anything that would only be done for 'racing' in particular that might cause damage if done for awhile. I've been looking at getting a Cobb Accessport, but then read that their considered outdated now. JB4 I heard you have to send in your ecu to have it installed, and MHD I'm considering now although would need an android device to use, so does anyone have any recommendations? I know, the MHD vs JB4 has been done to death, but I'm mainly looking for what you think would be best for a daily driver like me with not much experience in tuning anything (although I'd like to get great performance). I then heard downpipe was crucial, mostly catless downpipe, but then I was told that would trigger the check-engine light and then I'd have to take it in to get tuned? Also, what's the difference between a full exhaust system like - bmw-3-series-cat-back-exhaust-system - is it strictly the noise or is there a performance gain from the 1400 exhaust systems vs the 350 catless downpipe? My roommate suggested exhaust first then tuner, but I cannot decide, do I need the full system or just the downpipe? If the system is 1000+ more and it's only for sound then I doubt I'll go for it. Thanks for any information I could get, I'm new to all this.
    9 replies | 73 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    02-20-2018, 02:05 PM
    Well, the competition is over. The winner? The Lamborghini Huracan Performante. Let's just quickly remind you what cars it took down. The Chevrolet C7 Corvette Z06, Acura NSX, McLaren 720S, Audi R8 V10 Plus, Porsche 991.2 GT3, and the Mercedes-AMG GT R. Here are their laptimes from slowest to quickest: NSX: 1:00.32 R8: 59.80 GT3: 59.20 720S: 58.60 GT R: 58.32 Z06: 58.12 How did the Lamborghini Huracan Performante do? 57.52 That is a decisive victory. It is interesting to note the Lamborghini is not the lightest or most powerful of the group. It certainly seems to be the most well rounded and engaging though. The suspension and aerodynamics are clearly world class. Who said the naturally aspirated motor is dead when it comes to performance? Reifen: Pirelli P-Zero Trofeo R. Rundenzeit: Lamborghini Huracán Performante: 0.57,52 min.
    8 replies | 68 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    02-22-2018, 02:04 PM
    Speedometer overlay videos are flawed because speedometers often lie. They are not nearly 100% accurate and that is why GPS should always be used for comparisons such as this. That said, holy crap is the M760Li a beast. The Panamera Turbo S E-Hybrid has a dual clutch transmission and is rated at 680 horsepower thanks to its electric motor assisting. It's fast but it's also heavy considering the standard Panamera Turbo is over 4500 pounds. What does the E-Hybrid really weigh? Not that the M760Li is a lightweight. All wheel drive, a 600 horsepower 6.6 liter twin turbo V12, and an extended wheelbase make for a heavy recipe at roughly 4800 pounds. However, there are no batteries or electric motors. The more powerful Panamera Turbo S E-Hybrid should easily hit 300 earlier, right? Wrong. The M760Li trails a bit off the launch but just becomes a freight train past 100 miles per and easily hits well past 300 kph which the Panamera Turbo S E-Hybrid does not even reach. It may not be an official M car but the M760Li is a force to be reckoned with and clearly an Autobahn terror.
    7 replies | 44 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 02:07 PM
    The N55 continues to come into its own with big singles leading the way. DocRace offers a Precision 6266 based turbo kit for the N55 that is in a top mount configuration. Nothing quite like opening the engine bay and seeing a big single turbo sitting there, right? Let's go over the mod list on this car: F30 335i N55 engine DocRace 6266 top mount single turbo JB4, BMS back end flash E85 Port injection Port injection obviously makes the 663 whp possible on full E85: It looks like it pulls strong up top too but a better quality graph is really warranted. Excellent N55 numbers but wow does the owner have bad taste when it comes to cosmetic mods. Red mesh and roundels? Clown car. At least it is fast so you don't have to look at it.
    6 replies | 56 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    02-22-2018, 02:52 PM
    It does not matter what the platform is at some point you will surpass the capability of the factory engine design when adding power/torque. In the Honda world this is fairly common. It's even common in the Nissan GTR world. What do you do when that happens? You go to a billet engine block. The factory design can only be reinforced so many ways but it is always a compromise. A ground-up billet design for the application is the proper (albeit expensive) way to do it reliably. Do you really think those 1500+ horsepower Hondas and 2500+ horsepower Nissan GTR's are doing it on factory blocks? Absolutely not. This is how you get to a custom billet block capable of huge power according to Bullet Race Engineering: 1. Start with an OEM block. Scan it to establish baseline dimensions 2. Improve the design to make it more rigid, more durable, more reliable 3. Load a 130 kilogram block of 6061 aluminium billet into the 4-axis CNC mill 4. Remove most of the material until it looks like a Honda B-series 5. Keep removing metal 6. Now you have a block suitable for all Honda B-series applications that is better in every way and only requires minimal modifications to replace the original block 7. Throw the original block in the skip with the swarf - it's still worth a few dollars as scrap metal What you see there will hold 1700+ horsepower and will run you $7500+ dollars. That may sound like a lot but it is actually affordable. For one, you have the Honda volume so several of these will sell plus it being a four-cylinder requires less material and makes for an easier design. A Nissan GTR VR38DETT 4.0 liter 2500+ hp capable billet engine block can run over $25k. How much power do you want to reliably make and what do you want to spend? That is what it comes down to.
    5 replies | 53 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    02-19-2018, 10:34 AM
    This is admittedly a cool swap. Why? For one, it isn't another LSX V8 into a BMW chassis. There is something special about sticking with BMW M power. The 400 horsepower S62 V8 comes from the E39 M5. It is not BimmerBoost's favorite M powerplant or V8 of all time for that matter but it certainly would change the character of this car. Not to mention, offer something unique that BMW themselves would not do. If going for power though the iron bloc I6 powerplant can make much more than the S62 V8. That is why some E39 M5 owners ditch their V8 for an S50/S52 I6 and turbocharge it. Still, definitely a cool swap. Now how about doing an S85 V10 and showing BMW's version of a Viper?
    6 replies | 34 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    02-19-2018, 06:43 PM
    I'm positioning myself to make another real estate investment next year. Do you guys think the market is overvalued? I mean, it seems that way. Everything just keeps going up or maybe it's that SoCal is so overpriced to begin with. I've already made a nice return on a property I bought just a couple years ago. I'm worried there will be a correction at some point. Wondering what people with more experience think.
    4 replies | 212 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    02-22-2018, 03:23 PM
    You might saying, hold on, didn't the E9X M3 S65 V8 already top 700 horsepower to the wheels on the stock engine internals? Indeed it did and indeed it was Gintani who did it with their twin turbo setup. This is the first time anyone has cracked 700 to the wheels with a supercharger on the stock internals on the S65 V8 platform. This was achieved on 100% E85 featuring Gintani's new S65 V8 ethanol fuel system and only 11.5 psi of boost. The blower is a Vortech T-Trim unit. In addition the car features the full ARH exhaust system with their header design. The full graph will be sent to BimmerBoost next week but enjoy the achievement. Oh, and the M3 is currently in the process of getting this same setup.
    5 replies | 49 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    02-21-2018, 01:24 PM
    Automotive forums are a double edged sword. They can be a repository of valuable information with incredibly knowledgeable and helpful members. They can also have know-it-all's who spread misinformation and think they are never wrong. The BoostAddict forums are worth every penny, right?
    4 replies | 98 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    02-20-2018, 01:38 PM
    Welcome to a real enthusiast forum Datsaabguy570.
    4 replies | 69 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    02-20-2018, 04:36 PM
    The 435i in the video is tuned with a BMS JB5 pushing roughly 17.5 psi of boost on E85. It has bolt on mods consisting of a downpipe and intake. The 3.0 liter N55 is matching up against a stock W205 Mercedes-AMG C63 S. Even though the Mercedes is stock and the heavier chassis it is bringing with it a 4.0 liter M177 twin turbo V8 and well over 500 horsepower. A stock M177 S is in the ~465 whp range with ~490 lb-ft of torque at the wheels. The 435i is simply overmatched. It hangs in fairly well all things considering but it struggles against a stock M177 which means if the C63 gets a tune it will be in another zip code.
    4 replies | 64 view(s)
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