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  • Terry@BMS's Avatar
    87 replies | 1550 view(s)
  • ATP's Avatar
    Today, 12:04 AM
    ATP started a thread N54: Snapped VC Bolt in N54, N55, N52
    So, I snapped a VC bolt when buttoning up after a gasket/cover replacement. I am sure I must have cross threaded it given the difficulty in getting it out so far. Pretty sure I am at the cobalt drill bit phase but wanted to see if anyone has any additional ideas. Tried so far: 1) Pliers on the section that used to be sticking out, hoping I was lucky and it would spin out. I wasn't lucky. 2) Center punched and left hand drill bit. No luck. 3) Extraction tool with a square-ish shaft to back out. No luck. 4) EZ-Out style extraction. I could get these to dig in but they all eventually "stripped" before backing the bolt out. In the process of all of this, I ended up snapping a small drill bit inside the bolt. I have been working to drill the rest of the bolt out but I am not getting anywhere. I suspect I have hit the drill bit that snapped and am struggling to drill through it. On top of that, I think the lack of progress is pushing me off center and I might have a hard time recovering center at this point. Any ideas out there before I pick up some cobalt bits? With the cobalt bits, any tips on how to get back on center? I have tried center punching again but it doesn't seem to be assisting. IF I can't get back on center and proceed to drill the bolt out, I expect some threads to be damaged. Given the low torque value, does anyone see damaged threads on one side being catastrophic? Nuclear scenario, I will need to find an automotive machine shop to extract it. Pic for reference even though it doesn't show much.
    0 replies | 18 view(s)
  • chadillac2000's Avatar
    Yesterday, 11:24 PM
    Even though it's only been 40 days since my last update, this E82 road warrior has racked up nearly 4,500 miles in that time, bringing the odometer up to 133,000 and counting. In North Carolina, that has meant some pretty cold weather recently. That used to mean rough starts on higher concentrations of E85, but after BMS revised their cold start tables on their back end flashes, things are now OEM smooth. Eventually the 30's gave way to even colder temperatures, and on one particularly frigid morning in the mountains, a single digit cold start was the last bit of energy my battery had left to give. Seeing as how this was still the original, I knew it was only a matter of time before I would have to find a replacement. Daily driving this car plus the intelligent battery sensor really seemed to have stretched the life of the OEM battery which lasted over 10 years. Before swapping out the dead battery, I performed another routine oil change with Motul and a Mann. Without too much trouble, I managed to get the old OEM battery out and sat it beside the Interstate replacement to compare. I was relieved to find out they were identical sizes. I wasn't interested in coding the battery -- only registering, so I went with something with a similar aH rating and non-AGM. The Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-49/H8-1 is 100aH versus 90aH of the OEM, and packs more cold cranking amps and reserve minutes. 15 minutes later and I had everything secured, terminals tightened down, and was ready to register the battery -- which was as simple as opening up the MHD app, going to reset adaptations, and registering the battery. Before finishing up, I also swapped out the third brake light and added a matte black 135i emblem. This is my 4th brake light, and although the vinyl tint made the third one last longer than the previous two, it still managed to crack on the tops and bottom enough to bother me. I ordered this purposely through FCP Euro, so I'll be interested to see if they warranty the part the next time it breaks, which it almost certainly will. I have a very busy next month or so, but getting some dyno time will be a priority in March.
    76 replies | 3570 view(s)
  • SJ_1989's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:49 PM
    Parting out all interior pieces from a 2008 335i E90 with sport package, cold weather package, CCC navigation, black interior, and 66,000 miles. Car has been sitting in my garage for the past 3 years and I've put maybe 1000 miles on it in that time period. I am the second owner of the car. All interior pieces are a 9/10 unless otherwise noted. Parting out as I'm converting the car to a dedicated drag car and have no room in the house for it and no reason to keep it. All parts were taken out with care to avoid damage. Link to one of the other forums where you can find everything for sale: If this is not OK to do this Sticky let me know. It's a lot of parts and I'd rather not try to manage multiple places. Currently not selling any electrical components until I complete stripping out the wiring harness. Will update thread when that time comes. Don't see something ask. More items will be added. Any questions, feel free to ask. All prices OBO.
    0 replies | 13 view(s)
  • Eleventeen's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:39 PM
    There is a “scientific” but vague definition of horsepower. The problem is, a dynamometer’s measurement of horsepower is arbitrary (measurement not based on the actual definition). This is likely due to the fact that there is no way to accurately measure the defined parameters of one horsepower, since there are too many variables. So even when discussing two dynos of the same type, the calibration of those dynos is likely different. One Dynojet will often read quite a bit differently than another Dynojet. Putting $2500 on the line is a big risk for either party, and really proves nothing. Makes for an interesting thread, though!
    87 replies | 1550 view(s)
  • Chris@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    Yesterday, 08:59 PM
    We are very pleased to announce our S55 GC 93 octane results! Working exclusively with Cary Jordan and using the Bootmod3 software from ProTuningFreaks we have surpassed all expectations and made 635WHP/691WTQ on 93 octane only. The car holds 600WHP to 7200 RPM. Zero fueling upgrades. 2015 F80 M3: VTT S55 GC cast turbos VTT Silicone Charge Pipes Catless Downpipes VRSF midpipes Injen Intake Stock intercooler Stock fuel system (including lpfp). For those who don’t know -these are new cast units, no core charge, no price gouging. $3499 for a new set of turbos and silicone inlets. We are offering a couple interesting package discount options with GC purchase that you may want to check out; -Add a Spline Lock ($500, normally $699) -Add a Cary Jordan OTS GC Tune ($350, normally $400) -Add a Cary Jordan Custom GC Tune ($550, normally $600) These will be in stock in approx. 4 weeks. Once in, they will be available for same day shipping. No long lead times; another one of the many reasons we call them game changers. On to the graphs... 635WHP/691 WTQ 30 psi / 8 degrees of timing at peak power. 10 degrees of timing at redline. Keep in mind we're intentionally slowing spool in these runs. The turbos spool very fast and come on so hard we feel its best to do so for engine longevity; but just to show you what we're talking about we have a graph from earlier in the 93 testing with spool not slowed. We also attached graphs on the way to these results -this was not a glory run. Cary said this is a perfectly streetable tune on 93... run it! E30 and E85 results coming up next!
    0 replies | 20 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    6 replies | 2027 view(s)
  • F16HTON's Avatar
    3 replies | 202 view(s)
  • 135idct's Avatar
    6 replies | 2027 view(s)
  • TKT2SPEED's Avatar
    Yesterday, 06:50 PM
    I’m ready for these! Sent you an email....thanks
    3 replies | 118 view(s)
  • Payam@BMS's Avatar
    87 replies | 1550 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 03:11 PM
    Hey Jitsudan: :text-welcomewave:
    0 replies | 21 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 02:10 PM
    Gintaras, we appreciate you taking the time to join.
    0 replies | 25 view(s)
  • Sleet142's Avatar
    Yesterday, 02:00 PM
    Update: Flashed to stock. Stop using the boost x gear tables, and now only use the boost-setpoint x wgdc table along with the stock tables. I have also moved to BLM tuning with the load out of the way, which has been working much much better
    14 replies | 466 view(s)
  • Sleet142's Avatar
    Yesterday, 01:56 PM
    Looks like load based tuning. So the car is having throttle closures when it meets or exceeds the requested load. Between your throttle closures and WGDC your boost is fluctuating after you have spooled. Near the top of the rpm range the throttle closures are not as severe so you don't notice the fluctuating boost. MHD keeps the older revisions in the catalog of tunes to use. You could try a different revision, log, and see if that revision fits your car better.
    7 replies | 566 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 12:55 PM
    Hey tylerboland01: :text-welcomewave:
    0 replies | 19 view(s)
  • AdminTeam's Avatar
    Yesterday, 10:10 AM
    Welcome Chan, take a look around, I think you will like what you see.
    0 replies | 24 view(s)
  • Torgus's Avatar
    11 replies | 323 view(s)
  • langsbr's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:04 AM
    Damn, it was like forum 'sweeps week" and now it's over, lol. Should we set an over/under for when VTT leaves Bimmerboost again? Sadly, this whole thread devolved with changing terms. First it was "it won't hold the record on a dynojet" with no quantification of what the record was. Then it was "meet these conditions, and make the same power on a dynojet." My thought would be - establish what the prior record was, and if this beats that number on a dynojet, then it still wins.
    87 replies | 1550 view(s)
  • Zombie1's Avatar
    5 replies | 148 view(s)
  • 93siro's Avatar
    Yesterday, 04:01 AM
    You guys are spinning things around. Tony's statement was clear, that N55, unchanged, will not put down the same amount of whp on a dynojet. The M3 making 1000whp is as impressive as it gets, but still it's not what was the subject of the bet. Many things could have done to it since it was showing 1000whp on his Dynocom. I have no beef against Jordan, he seems like to know his stuff. But i also understand Tony's concerns and where they come from. Take car A untouched to your dynocom and then put it on dynojet to see what's the delta between the two dynos. And since money is involved, i would also ask for proof regarding to clarify that the car A is indeed not seeing any changes done to it and IMHO the easiest would be a simple log file. My 2 cents/
    87 replies | 1550 view(s)
  • Sticky2's Avatar
    87 replies | 1550 view(s)
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