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Thread: Technique Tuning Stage "PEI330Ci" 330i Turbo Street Car

              
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    Technique Tuning Stage "PEI330Ci" 330i Turbo Street Car

    Apparently, I can't seem to leave a relatively stock BMW alone.

    I bought a 2001 330i last winter thinking I'd use it to get groceries, and maybe bolt on a few of the items I have for a E46s sitting at my shop. I was thinking it would remain mostly stock? Click here to enlarge

    It didn't take long before I bought a Technique Tuning Stage 1 turbo kit from Bluejeansonfire to have a little fun with. Then came a 4.10 race diff from the 330Ci race car....and before long my grocery getter wasn't being used to get groceries anymore.

    With the 330Ci race car project still on the go, it didn't make much sense to turn my "street car" into another project car so I decided to plan a drive-train upgrade that would still allow me to get groceries and take my family out for ice-cream without getting in too much trouble.

    So when this happened:

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    ...people started asking what the heck I was up to. Follow along and see.

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    How to tear apart an M54B30 in a morning:

    Click here to enlarge

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    The oil pump was a real pain to pull off after I welded the Oil Pump Nut on last summer. Basically, you have to pull 6 bolts out from behind the drive chain and shimmy the pump assembly forward along with the sprocket drive on the crank snout. It was only a 20 minute job, but something that wasn't as straight forward as I thought it would be. A word of warning to those welding their oil pump nut on: If you need to pull the oil pump off...to say check your crank bearings or rods, you will have to tear off the entire front timing chain assembly including the VANOS.

    Back to the tear down:

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

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    For an engine with 120,000kms...the internals looked almost brand new!

    Click here to enlarge

    By the way, that scuff line on one cylinder is from me pushing out the piston with a rod bolt accidently in the bore. (Dropped a main cap bolt)

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    So the block and internals were packaged up with some new parts, and sent off to my engine builder:

    Click here to enlarge

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    Awesome!

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    I missed to add that as with my last engine build, a torque plate is used for the boring and honing process:

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Something else that a few people have been asking about is how big you can go with regards to head studs. Well here is the answer:

    Click here to enlarge

    OEM and Raceware have 10mm studs.

    I have a custom set of Raceware studs that are 11mm thick.

    Some people have talked about going to a 12mm stud, but I think you'd have to eliminate the existing alignment dowels for the cylinder head to make them fit.

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    in for updates!
    Click here to enlarge

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    pei we are running almost the same set up on the internals and head studs! Great minds think alike!

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    Very nice!

    But if I may, why are you not putting the engine together yourself?
    BMW Master Certified Tech - ///M Specialist & Diesel Specialist
    - '02 BMW 530i/5 speed - 473WHP @ 14 PSI, E85 PTE6262
    - '11 BMW 328i M Sport - Daily Driver & tuned(can't help the mod bug)
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    That is some serious shade tree action there. Looks like a great build
    Click here to enlarge

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    Adam, I run 1/2" studs without issue. No alignment dowels.

    Click here to enlarge


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by jacobs323i Click here to enlarge
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    pei we are running almost the same set up on the internals and head studs! Great minds think alike!
    Jacob,

    I'll be doing some things that I'm pretty sure you'll also want to look into. Pictures to follow.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DLV-Engineering Click here to enlarge
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    Very nice!

    But if I may, why are you not putting the engine together yourself?
    Thanks.

    I quite simply don't have the time right now. Where I used to spend on average 30hrs a week...every week of the year at the shop playing, I'm now lucky to find 2hrs a week.

    Keep in mind, I'm only talking about the bottom end: Crank, rods, oil squirters, and pistons install. The rest of the engine build up I'll be doing myself.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SSDD Click here to enlarge
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    That is some serious shade tree action there. Looks like a great build
    Thanks. Not my first time tearing down an M54 though...

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 Click here to enlarge
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    Adam, I run 1/2" studs without issue. No alignment dowels.

    http://www.benzboost.com/images/impo...chining7-1.jpg
    Good info Jon.

    I had to balance the stud size with the amount of material left in the block. Here's the 10mm thread size for reference:

    Click here to enlarge

    For this street car engine, I'm really not too worried using 10mm studs with my relatively meager power goals.

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    The 10mm ARP 2000, non-undercut solution is sound. I am actually switching to them on my next build. The aluminum blocks are a bit different obviously in that they're aluminum Click here to enlarge So, stud depth is much deeper I feel. What will you run for main studs?


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 Click here to enlarge
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    The 10mm ARP 2000, non-undercut solution is sound. I am actually switching to them on my next build. The aluminum blocks are a bit different obviously in that they're aluminum Click here to enlarge So, stud depth is much deeper I feel. What will you run for main studs?
    On this engine and the race engine, I'll be using Raceware main studs. The real trick is a well balanced crank and good control of harmonics.

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    nice! Let me know what you have in mind, i am hoping it is a stronger diff solution.

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    or pretty much anything drive train related as i feel that is my weak point right now.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
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    How to tear apart an M54B30 in a morning:

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...rch20112-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...rch20113-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...rch20114-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...rch20115-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...rch20116-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...rch20117-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...rch20118-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...rch20119-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...ch201110-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...ch201111-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...ch201112-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...ch201113-1.jpg

    The oil pump was a real pain to pull off after I welded the Oil Pump Nut on last summer. Basically, you have to pull 6 bolts out from behind the drive chain and shimmy the pump assembly forward along with the sprocket drive on the crank snout. It was only a 20 minute job, but something that wasn't as straight forward as I thought it would be. A word of warning to those welding their oil pump nut on: If you need to pull the oil pump off...to say check your crank bearings or rods, you will have to tear off the entire front timing chain assembly including the VANOS.

    Back to the tear down:

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...ch201114-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...ch201115-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...ch201116-1.jpg

    For an engine with 120,000kms...the internals looked almost brand new!

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...ch201120-1.jpg

    By the way, that scuff line on one cylinder is from me pushing out the piston with a rod bolt accidently in the bore. (Dropped a main cap bolt)
    I can't stress enough how awesome these tear down pics are.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Twinturbom3
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    You look like a retarded teenager discovering internet.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
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    Who is your engine builder?

    Also, you said you didn't want to have another project car but it seems that is exactly what this is becoming. What is the goal for this car?
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Twinturbom3
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    You look like a retarded teenager discovering internet.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
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    Who is your engine builder?

    Also, you said you didn't want to have another project car but it seems that is exactly what this is becoming. What is the goal for this car?
    Allyn Armstrong will do the machine work, and MacLean Performance will do the bottom end assembly.

    The goal for the car is to have fun. With the race car so far from being completed, and to be honest somewhat on the back burner right now, I wanted something to play with that would involve a relatively minor amount of work. (Compared to my 330Ci's first build)

    I'll give a run-down on all the mods that are planned, and already completed shortly.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
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    I can't stress enough how awesome these tear down pics are.
    Thanks.

    I was going to get into greater detail with a "step by step"....but just didn't have the time. Rather than focus on the tear down, I'm going to show a very comprehensive build sequence instead.

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    What turbo? Power goal?

    Looks good!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by gringotegra Click here to enlarge
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    What turbo? Power goal?

    Looks good!
    Thanks, I'll list the specs shortly.

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    More work on the car this week:

    Click here to enlarge

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    And just for kicks, I did a little test fit of some stuff I've had sitting NIB for a while:

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Treo SSX 18s

    Huge overkill..and requires an electrical system that can handle 600+ amps continuous. I was going to install these along with a bunch of other stuff I have in the Tahoe but chickened out in 2009.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
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    Treo SSX 18s

    Huge overkill..and requires an electrical system that can handle 600+ amps continuous. I was going to install these along with a bunch of other stuff I have in the Tahoe but chickened out in 2009.
    Will add a ton of weight to the car though, right?
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Twinturbom3
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    You look like a retarded teenager discovering internet.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
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    Will add a ton of weight to the car though, right?
    Oh...I have no intension of putting these in the car...it would probably add an easy 200+ lbs. Just always wanted to see how big one could go with an E46.

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    arghh... my poor bandwith. looks great PEI. think things will be sorted out intime for the season?

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