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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
    hey if the tune is all its hyped to be i doubt AFR is the concern, you were monitoring it with a pipe sniffer it seems so i dont see you pushing your luck.

    and i forgot you are auto, it always seems to slip my mind, so it shifts early? thats interesting, you learn something new everyday. and i guess they put a taper on the tune before the shift as to not spike, which is why it drops off suddenly. so maybe with a manual we would see power to redline, or at least sustained. im now interested to see a manual RB turbo dyno Click here to enlarge no offence to you or your car, you made great numbers like i said, and your car performs, we all have seen the videos Click here to enlarge and that was on jb3 right? you should ask for a re-run Click here to enlarge
    are you confusing the need for fuel vs the discussion on timing control?

    and i think your not understanding what im sayin, if im even saying it correctly. i was running the car, the shop owner held the control to the dyno. the miscommunication may have been him hitting the "stop" before i was at redline. there is nothin stopping me from hittin 6800rpm, that I know of. i watched the tach climb to it. or maybe im not understanding what you are saying.

    or are you talking about the boost decay toward redline? i can show you my settings, but we dropped boost @ 6500 and 7000 by 1 psi @ each. no point in holding the boost that high that late if its going to go even more lean...

    ** edit** after looking even closer at the dyno's, i now have NO idea what your talking about. you can see it reaches 6800 rpm every time..


    and yes, i think its time for a rematch against dans Lambo
    as shown here: http://www.bimmerboost.com/attachmen...7&d=1298760953

    RED is todays/Jb4's control, BLUE is JB3 settings for same peak HP- which is about close to what I ran against him with before. so its hows how much more power "under the curve" I can now put down
    Last edited by LostMarine; 02-27-2011 at 01:24 AM.

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    No we can't. But he should really be shifting @ 6500rpm or less anyway. Click here to enlarge
    This is true... for the stock curve, heads, and cams.

    This will become somewhat of an issue with aftermarket turbos, heads/valvetrain, and cams.
    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale: http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

  3. #28
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    To raise it we would need to flash load a new limit. Which can be done in theory.

  4. #29
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    Oddjob have you posted up your ASR dynos yet? Send LM a DRF of your best run. I'd love to see them merged on a single chart just to see where we stand right now. Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    To raise it we would need to flash load a new limit. Which can be done in theory.
    Just to clarify, you mean ecu flash in conjunction?
    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale: http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Just to clarify, you mean ecu flash in conjunction?
    Right. The JB4 is sitting out on the CAN bus as a node. So it could in theory initiate a reflash to the DME. Provided we could work up the code to do it.

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    Right. The JB4 is sitting out on the CAN bus as a node. So it could in theory initiate a reflash to the DME. Provided we could work up the code to do it.
    So this is something that could be initiated from the JB4 itself? As in the JB4 could have the ability to flash and raise the redline?
    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale: http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

  8. #33
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    Congrats on the new numbers LM. Glad to hear that your car is performing 100%
    Click here to enlarge

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    Oddjob have you posted up your ASR dynos yet? Send LM a DRF of your best run. I'd love to see them merged on a single chart just to see where we stand right now. Click here to enlarge
    Im actually pretty interested in baseline runs fully modded and bigger turbo's, just to get an idea of what im working with at the lowest/stock level as opposed to actual stock baseline. i still want to get a STOCK n54 on that dyno to see how it compares

  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    So this is something that could be initiated from the JB4 itself? As in the JB4 could have the ability to flash and raise the redline?
    Right. But it would take months of development and isn't on our radar right now. Just a theoretical option if we needed for cam tuning, etc.

  11. #36
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    Right. But it would take months of development and isn't on our radar right now. Just a theoretical option if we needed for cam tuning, etc.
    I understand, never bad to ponder potential or what may be ahead.
    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale: http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

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    No need to increase redline with stock internals. The intake valves and ports will not support the revs and the power would drop drastically after 7000. Also the piston speeds due to the short rods get quite high. Redline should be increased when having longer and lighterrods, lighter pistons and upgraded head.

  13. #38
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Oddjob, did you dyno your car last fall as intended? It would be nice to compare.

  14. #39
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    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge
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    Agreed no need to increase redline, it's already asthmatic at 7000 RPM. I think even with aftermarket head, cams and valves youll want to stop at 7000 RPM anyway. Piston speed is also a problem as 654 mentioned.
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  16. #41
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    Until we have more fueling in place, I don't think we really know that for sure. The stock turbos DEFINITELY can't keep up at 7000 rpm's, but the RB or other turbo upgrades might build decent power that high if supported by the proper fueling. We need to get the supporting mods in place before we can determine what the engine itself is actually capable of. Right now I think the problem with raising the rev limiter (on an auto tranny such as LM's car) is that you would also need to raise the shift points, or the higher rev limiter is pointless.

  17. #42
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    wow cars making great numbers!
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  18. #43
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    i havnt dyno'd yet, but maybe i will soon. it wont be on racegas any time soon though so not much to compare to unless you go back with your jb4 settings for pumpgas+meth. right now im running about 17psi and it runs well and consistent, no issues at all, when we go above that psi on pump it seems to break up at 6xxx rpm, but it's at least always the same rpm lol. i think its a spark issue, or a coil issue, when i changed the whole injection and spark system the new coils maybe are not up to snuff with the older coils, who knows. after the whole swap, on the first few test runs we were hitting 20psi, and had to lower some settings, we got it down to 18-19 psi and it ran very well for a few runs, we did one more test and see if it would break up and you guessed it, it did. and after that it kept doing it until we lowered it to 17psi. i wanted to test the problem and i was going to swap coils with asr's 1, he hasnt gotten back to me though so i might take a ride over there and catch up sooner than later. it could also be possible the gas is the issue, and maybe racegas would fix the issue, but im liking the way the car performs on pump+meth at 17psi. its a helluva torque monster and the pull doesnt stop to redline, ive taken it to 7k many times on some highway runs, if i lost 50+ or so whp like some of LM's dyno runs show from his 6000 peak to 6800 i would for sure notice it, but maybe thats a manual vs auto thing. i raced some good competition but no video yet. also something to mention is my car will not be a dyno queen whatsoever... my aftermarket intake box makes it so i breathe through the scoops/stock intake tract, without like a carpet dryer or substantial fan the car will be starving for air up top. the intake tract and box is made for a wall of rushing air not some dinky fan trying to replicate road speed. i could remove the box temporarily for the dyno and put on filters but its kind of a hassle. ive just been waiting to hear back from abid and get this stuff sorted before i dyno. remember, im more of a road racer than drag fan, im usually moving.

    and LM, my guess is the reason they 'stopped' the dyno is you were losing power at that point, no reason to keep going when power is not sustained or climbing. but you're right, it seems to stop at 6800. but look carefully at your runs, there is a 17psi and 18psi run that hold power to your stop point better than your 20 psi runs. so yeah, like terry said, just shift a bit early and stay in your power band Click here to enlarge
    Last edited by oddjob2021; 02-27-2011 at 04:43 PM.
    Click here to enlarge
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  19. #44
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    congrats buddy! great job terry and rob!
    JB4LIFE

  20. #45
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
    i havnt dyno'd yet, but maybe i will soon. it wont be on racegas any time soon though so not much to compare to unless you go back with your jb4 settings for pumpgas+meth. right now im running about 17psi and it runs well and consistent, no issues at all, when we go above that psi on pump it seems to break up at 6xxx rpm, but it's at least always the same rpm lol. i think its a spark issue, or a coil issue, when i changed the whole injection and spark system the new coils maybe are not up to snuff with the older coils, who knows. after the whole swap, on the first few test runs we were hitting 20psi, and had to lower some settings, we got it down to 18-19 psi and it ran very well for a few runs, we did one more test and see if it would break up and you guessed it, it did. and after that it kept doing it until we lowered it to 17psi. i wanted to test the problem and i was going to swap coils with asr's 1, he hasnt gotten back to me though so i might take a ride over there and catch up sooner than later. it could also be possible the gas is the issue, and maybe racegas would fix the issue, but im liking the way the car performs on pump+meth at 17psi. its a helluva torque monster and the pull doesnt stop to redline, ive taken it to 7k many times on some highway runs, if i lost 50+ or so whp like some of LM's dyno runs show from his 6000 peak to 6800 i would for sure notice it, but maybe thats a manual vs auto thing. i raced some good competition but no video yet. also something to mention is my car will not be a dyno queen whatsoever... my aftermarket intake box makes it so i breathe through the scoops/stock intake tract, without like a carpet dryer or substantial fan the car will be starving for air up top. the intake tract and box is made for a wall of rushing air not some dinky fan trying to replicate road speed. i could remove the box temporarily for the dyno and put on filters but its kind of a hassle. ive just been waiting to hear back from abid and get this stuff sorted before i dyno. remember, im more of a road racer than drag fan, im usually moving.

    and LM, my guess is the reason they 'stopped' the dyno is you were losing power at that point, no reason to keep going when power is not sustained or climbing. but you're right, it seems to stop at 6800. but look carefully at your runs, there is a 17psi and 18psi run that hold power to your stop point better than your 20 psi runs. so yeah, like terry said, just shift a bit early and stay in your power band Click here to enlarge
    I think your confusing how we purposly tapered the boost, co/mpared to a sustained run

  21. #46
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
    i havnt dyno'd yet, but maybe i will soon. it wont be on racegas any time soon though so not much to compare to unless you go back with your jb4 settings for pumpgas+meth. right now im running about 17psi and it runs well and consistent, no issues at all, when we go above that psi on pump it seems to break up at 6xxx rpm, but it's at least always the same rpm lol. i think its a spark issue, or a coil issue, when i changed the whole injection and spark system the new coils maybe are not up to snuff with the older coils, who knows. after the whole swap, on the first few test runs we were hitting 20psi, and had to lower some settings, we got it down to 18-19 psi and it ran very well for a few runs, we did one more test and see if it would break up and you guessed it, it did. and after that it kept doing it until we lowered it to 17psi. i wanted to test the problem and i was going to swap coils with asr's 1, he hasnt gotten back to me though so i might take a ride over there and catch up sooner than later. it could also be possible the gas is the issue, and maybe racegas would fix the issue, but im liking the way the car performs on pump+meth at 17psi. its a helluva torque monster and the pull doesnt stop to redline, ive taken it to 7k many times on some highway runs, if i lost 50+ or so whp like some of LM's dyno runs show from his 6000 peak to 6800 i would for sure notice it, but maybe thats a manual vs auto thing. i raced some good competition but no video yet. also something to mention is my car will not be a dyno queen whatsoever... my aftermarket intake box makes it so i breathe through the scoops/stock intake tract, without like a carpet dryer or substantial fan the car will be starving for air up top. the intake tract and box is made for a wall of rushing air not some dinky fan trying to replicate road speed. i could remove the box temporarily for the dyno and put on filters but its kind of a hassle. ive just been waiting to hear back from abid and get this stuff sorted before i dyno. remember, im more of a road racer than drag fan, im usually moving.

    and LM, my guess is the reason they 'stopped' the dyno is you were losing power at that point, no reason to keep going when power is not sustained or climbing. but you're right, it seems to stop at 6800. but look carefully at your runs, there is a 17psi and 18psi run that hold power to your stop point better than your 20 psi runs. so yeah, like terry said, just shift a bit early and stay in your power band Click here to enlarge
    Any dyno would be great for finding out how the car performs after the turbo upgrade. You have the dynos from before and not much else has changed in your mods other than turbos, so that's why it is so interesting as the comparison is straight forward.

  22. #47
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    I think your confusing how we purposely tapered the boost, compared to a sustained run
    yes, after confirmation, running too lean and going for a sustained boost run were not possible/wise that day

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