Close

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 68
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    357
    Rep Points
    937.9
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10


    6 out of 6 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No

    Berns' build thread: 335i Project Grip it n' Rip it

    A few people have been asking me what I've done to my car in the chassis department, so I figured I'd make a proper thread. I have lots of pictures of parts used, somewhere on my computer. And the upgrades will continue as I get the car more suited to track duty and move the powerband to the right with the removal of the stock twins.

    Despite me being a complete horsepower junky, it's been more fun to me, over the years, to make good power and create ridiculous amounts of grip, response and stability. I've learned to do this without sacrificing too much in terms of ride quality, either, and that really comes from using quality parts and not going overboard "just because you're in there already" with crazy high durometer poly and short-travel shocks or crappy coil springs.

    Having formerly been the Senior Editor & Photographer at European Car Magazine, and been in the publishing and automotive industry for over 10 years, I've driven almost every new car out there, so I try to set my personal cars up accordingly, with a handful of vehicular memories serving as a benchmark for performance.

    My last car was a 640whp turbo E46 M3. Seen here, though this is back when it was supercharged and making 500whp.

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Sold that car about 3 years ago, reluctantly, and picked up an '07 335i 6mt with 70k on it. It was bone stock and needed love all around.

    For power, I added:
    JB4 & DCI (thanks @Terry@BMS)
    Macht Schnell DPs, Cobb Catback
    Forge Motorsport FMIC, charge pipe and BOV
    stock fuel system, stock inlets, stock rattling turbos (replaced by BMW at 81k)

    Car made 282whp and 302 lb-ft with just the DCI:
    Click here to enlarge

    Then 367/376 on Map 1 with downpipes, FMIC, exhaust + BEF
    Click here to enlarge

    Then 403/437 on Map 2 with 30% e85 downpipes, FMIC, exhaust + BEF
    Click here to enlarge
    The car has stayed around this power level for the last 2+ years. I am extremely bored of the torque hit and faceplant, and the generally wheezy, restricted feeling with the tiny stock snails. This has to change if I'm going to keep the car.

    I've now got 105,000 miles and all is mostly well. I've gone through some coilpacks, had the HPFP and sensor go under the extended warranty, water pump failed around 85k.

    Car was getting too hot for my liking, so I added the CSF radiator and oil cooler. This has held up and kept temps in check for several 20 minute sessions on track. So far so good!

    I'll end this post here and get into Chassis stuff on the next one.

    Donuts make everything better, so here's the car in question on a Sunday morning drive.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    jebi se
    Posts
    340
    Rep Points
    1,027.4
    Mentioned
    24 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Just picked up my CSF radiator from FedEx 20 min ago! I had it on my last car too and it is a great addition to the car. Keeps temps in check even in 100+ degree Boise days

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    357
    Rep Points
    937.9
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Milan Click here to enlarge
    Just picked up my CSF radiator from FedEx 20 min ago! I had it on my last car too and it is a great addition to the car. Keeps temps in check even in 100+ degree Boise days
    Nice! Oil temp is the real problem with these though, but for roll racing I feel like the stock equipment should be enough to cope with all that high speed airflow.
    If your car came with an oil cooler, you can use the CSF E9x M3 trans cooler as a drop in, it's been great. More info in my thread about them here: http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...oler-Installed
    And @Ravi_CSF drops by here once in a while if you have any direct questions. Great dude and great products.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    212
    Rep Points
    230.1
    Mentioned
    22 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    3


    Yes Reputation No
    interested more in the chassis/suspension setup for max grip

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    357
    Rep Points
    937.9
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10



    Yes Reputation No
    Ok, since clearly, everyone on here has more power than me and there is no shortage of power-making info, I'll move on to the 'Grip It' portion of the build, which is still evolving and likely always will be.
    im blown away by the sheer grip and handling performance of this car, especially for its weight. I frequent twisty Malibu canyons with an intimidating crew of M3s, 911s, S2ks and the like, and I always lead the pack. This car impresses everyone, myself included!

    Im going to make some changes soon, realign and will report back with my preferred alignment specs. Please don't hesitate to ask me anything.

    SET YOUR CAR UP. No point in spending this money and time if you're not going to get a proper alignment and corner balance.

    Click here to enlarge
    Coilovers:
    KW is my brand of choice when it comes to coilovers; I've had Clubsports on my last four cars: Evo IX MR, Saab 92x-Aero, E46 M4 and now the E90. In my experience, there is really no other do-it-all coilover out there in comparison. I've spent some time in some Bilstein PSS equipped cars as well, which are great on the street, but too soft for track duty.

    Clubsports are amazing, compliant, have tons of travel and a wide range of possible adjustments. The springs that come with them are great for all around and casual tracking, but I'll be switching them out to Swift springs front/rear, 9k/14k respectively. This should make the car more responsive, better handling all around and likely won't have a huge effect on the street.

    Arms, bushings and mounts:
    M3 front upper/lower control arms
    Rear M3 guide rods
    Rear M3 wishbones
    Powerflex bushings for: rear subframe, diff, rear trailing arm/toe control
    335is Motor Mounts (only one part number here for the pass side, buy two)
    E46 M3 trans mounts
    AKG rear lower shock mounts (awesome upgrade from the stock much for about $140)
    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    You'll notice I'm not using M3 lower control arms out back. This is because I'd need to run M3 rear shocks with this upgrade. Had I done this all at once, and done my research, I'd have done the M3 rear arms and KW Clubsport non-M kit with M3 rear arms (they offer this, just ask!)
    I've spoken to a handful of people who race these cars often. It's not worth the cost to make the switch right now, and the m3 rear arms are pricey. If you're going for tenths of a second, go for it, but if you want a solid car, do everything else and you'll be fine.

    Sway bars:
    This car needs a bigger rear sway bar. It's very neutral with my current setup, which is nice and safe and extremely easy to drive, but if you're going for handling with a car as heavy as this, some lightness to the rear end by added rigidity can be helpful. Keep in mind, your sway bar setup will depend on your needs, your springs and your tires! This setup might not be for everyone, but I do drive my car on the street daily with no complaints. If you're running basic summer tires and sport springs, I'd go smaller.

    Stock front bar is 26.5mm Hollow.Stock rear bar is 13mm Hollow.

    Hollow bars reduce weight, but will flex easier than a solid bar. BMWs bars are all hollow, as are many upgrades, but H&R uses solid bars.
    Cobb front bar is 28mm HollowCobb rear bar is 15mm Hollow

    For the pain in the ass install of the rear bar, I wouldn't recommend this setup. 2mm increase in diameter is not worth it, so go with the M3 sway bars at least.

    M3 front bar is the same 26.5mm as stock, however it's straight across, where the non-M has a taper to 23mm. M3 rear bar is 20mm, this should be WAY better, especially in conjunction with my 28mm front bar. I will upgrade to either this or the H&R soon.

    If I could do it all over, for a sport/track-tuned e9x non-M, I'd go with H&R front and rear bars. I'll change out my rear bar soon.

    Front is 28mm SolidRear is 23mm Solid

    Click here to enlarge


    Drivetrain:
    Wavetrac LSD (MUST HAVE)
    335is clutch with MFactory SMFW (The chatter and noise has ruined this car as a daily driver to me, I wish I kept the DMFW)
    UUC SSK with DSSR

    E9x M3 steering rack (this is a must have if you want your car to feel even remotely responsive or sporty)

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge


    Wheels & Tires:
    I'll be changing to a max width square setup soon, but up until this point I have run Apex EC-7's and now F80 M3/M4 18's, style 513M. I love these wheels.
    18x9 f with 245/40/18 Falken RT615k
    18x10 r with 275/35/18 Falken RT615k

    Click here to enlarge

    Last edited by berns; 02-15-2017 at 02:57 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Flexing in the mirror
    Posts
    882
    Rep Points
    1,981.0
    Mentioned
    23 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    20


    Yes Reputation No
    Love this build. Way too many guys neglect these chassis upgrades for the easy hp upgrades which are useless with out grip.

    Berns, have you thought about the rear e93 m3 bar? Largest available. Are you running a strut bar up top?
    2010 N54 - DocRace - Motiv - CKI - TCKR - Volk - ER - CSF - Vorsteiner

    Click here to enlarge

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    63
    Rep Points
    150.9
    Mentioned
    21 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    Nice!
    Did you drove the car with bigger sway bars without the LSD too?
    I am wondering if a bigger sway bar is a good idea without an LSD- i think its better to stay oem then.
    135i 10/2009: MHD 102 Octan Custom Map, DP by Stevan, TTE550, MMP Relocation Inlets, ST XTA, M3 FCA, PU Bushings, AD Thermostat Mod, NGK plugs, BOV Mod, FMIC by HG Motorsport, Chargepipe Custom, IS Clutch, Diff Lock Down, CDV off, Clutch Spring off, IRP Shifter, RB PCV, Walbro 455, UCP by Gunna, PP ESD + MSD delete, Ferodo DS2500/Performance + Zimmermann CoatZ.

    To-Do: SK Challenge Diffusor, LSD, Recaro Pole Positions

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    357
    Rep Points
    937.9
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R.G. Click here to enlarge
    Love this build. Way too many guys neglect these chassis upgrades for the easy hp upgrades which are useless with out grip.

    Berns, have you thought about the rear e93 m3 bar? Largest available. Are you running a strut bar up top?
    Happy to hear that! And yes, on any cheap to mod and easy to extract power motor, the masses usually just upgrade for power. I know I'm not making a ton of power, but the way this car puts it down is awesome.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    357
    Rep Points
    937.9
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by frontside0815 Click here to enlarge
    Nice!
    Did you drove the car with bigger sway bars without the LSD too?
    I am wondering if a bigger sway bar is a good idea without an LSD- i think its better to stay oem then.
    I wouldn't at all say the dif and sways go hand in hand. They're serving entirely different purposes. I did the upgrade at the same time because I was pulling the rear end apart anyway, but if you don't plan to do a dif and have already done coillvers or a a nice spring and strut combo, a set of upgraded sways would compliment the car well, reduce roll and under steer and increase response.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    63
    Rep Points
    150.9
    Mentioned
    21 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    I did almost the same thing as you last week (M3 CA all around and some PU Bushings). I thought about doing the sway bars too but decided against it as long as i wont have an lsd.
    I dont want to loost any grip- the sway bar does not really make the car faster with good coilovers just better handling...

    You did not change out the rear subframe bushings? You should do! They made a big difference for me! The wiggle of the rear is almost fully gone.

    I will do aftermarket toe arms and a diff in the near future and then its like i want it, at least suspension wise :-D
    135i 10/2009: MHD 102 Octan Custom Map, DP by Stevan, TTE550, MMP Relocation Inlets, ST XTA, M3 FCA, PU Bushings, AD Thermostat Mod, NGK plugs, BOV Mod, FMIC by HG Motorsport, Chargepipe Custom, IS Clutch, Diff Lock Down, CDV off, Clutch Spring off, IRP Shifter, RB PCV, Walbro 455, UCP by Gunna, PP ESD + MSD delete, Ferodo DS2500/Performance + Zimmermann CoatZ.

    To-Do: SK Challenge Diffusor, LSD, Recaro Pole Positions

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    357
    Rep Points
    937.9
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by frontside0815 Click here to enlarge
    I did almost the same thing as you last week (M3 CA all around and some PU Bushings). I thought about doing the sway bars too but decided against it as long as i wont have an lsd.
    I dont want to loost any grip- the sway bar does not really make the car faster with good coilovers just better handling...

    You did not change out the rear subframe bushings? You should do! They made a big difference for me! The wiggle of the rear is almost fully gone.

    I will do aftermarket toe arms and a diff in the near future and then its like i want it, at least suspension wise :-D
    You won't be losing any grip with sway bars, but do your thing! If you're happy, and its meeting your needs, don't change it just because. I did the rear subframe bushings, The rear end of this car is like a leftover pot of mashed potatoes from the factory.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    +961
    Posts
    183
    Rep Points
    492.9
    Mentioned
    32 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    5


    3 out of 3 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    FWIW the stock sway bar adds more roll stiffness than the stock springs, this is done by OEMs to help limit roll while providing a cushy ride. What I would suggest for a high-performance road car which will see occasional non-competitive track use is to increase the spring rates to 200-220% of their stock value, keeping a similar ratio between the front and rear rates as stock. For competition use this goes up to 350% of stock. I tend to think of sway bars more as a tuning/trimming device used to adjust the balance if needed, and I find it best to keep the rear sway bar as small as possible to maximize corner exit traction over uneven surfaces especially
    Click here to enlarge

    2010 135i 6MT with mods aplenty, build thread below:
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...-Voyage-into-M

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    357
    Rep Points
    937.9
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by hydra Click here to enlarge
    FWIW the stock sway bar adds more roll stiffness than the stock springs, this is done by OEMs to help limit roll while providing a cushy ride. What I would suggest for a high-performance road car which will see occasional non-competitive track use is to increase the spring rates to 200-220% of their stock value, keeping a similar ratio between the front and rear rates as stock. For competition use this goes up to 350% of stock. I tend to think of sway bars more as a tuning/trimming device used to adjust the balance if needed, and I find it best to keep the rear sway bar as small as possible to maximize corner exit traction over uneven surfaces especially
    Totally agree with you, and it's a preference thing too. But at the base of this, we have an M3 on the same chassis with stiffer suspension and much bigger sway bars. In my opinion, the rear needs to be closer to M3 size to help this big car transition. As I said, my setup is very neutral right now. I'm going to upgrade to the Swift springs and see how I feel before making any other changes.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Derbyshire, UK
    Posts
    617
    Rep Points
    928.1
    Mentioned
    29 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by berns Click here to enlarge
    Totally agree with you, and it's a preference thing too. But at the base of this, we have an M3 on the same chassis with stiffer suspension and much bigger sway bars. In my opinion, the rear needs to be closer to M3 size to help this big car transition. As I said, my setup is very neutral right now. I'm going to upgrade to the Swift springs and see how I feel before making any other changes.

    Including a wider stance?
    Best:11.79@119mph on stock turbos.

    FBO+Meth Port injection, GC Turbos, fuel-it stage2, JB4, Trebila flash.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Derbyshire, UK
    Posts
    617
    Rep Points
    928.1
    Mentioned
    29 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10


    Yes Reputation No
    I'm guilty of adding lots and lots of power. I want a straight line monster right now to improve my drag strip times but money allowing I plan to do all the handling now.
    I don't get the opportunity to drive the car on a circuit. I'd enjoy some country roads now and then though. Also do plan to eventually have a go on the track. So I'm very interested to read this thread.
    Best:11.79@119mph on stock turbos.

    FBO+Meth Port injection, GC Turbos, fuel-it stage2, JB4, Trebila flash.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    jebi se
    Posts
    340
    Rep Points
    1,027.4
    Mentioned
    24 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    If you go wider tires in the rear a bigger rear sway bar is a no brainer, all OEMs do this. I don't care much about turning but it will help straight line traction for sure!

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    +961
    Posts
    183
    Rep Points
    492.9
    Mentioned
    32 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    5


    Yes Reputation No
    Yeah keep in mind that fitting lower offset wheels (as done on the M3) lowers wheel rate a fair bit. Also keep in mind that the modest torque output of the S65 allows for a more aggressive rear bar. I've done just about everything to my car but I've kept the bars stock FWIW, granted its smaller and nimbler than an E90. Was planning on maybe adding a 16mm rear bar in the future to trim a little bit of understeer, was waiting for the next trackday pulling the trigger though.
    Click here to enlarge

    2010 135i 6MT with mods aplenty, build thread below:
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...-Voyage-into-M

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Derbyshire, UK
    Posts
    617
    Rep Points
    928.1
    Mentioned
    29 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Would love to see a comparison of an LSD and non-LSD x35i compared as well with actual scientific research.
    Think I'm in the minority in feeling that electronics is the best, most effective and controllable way to go.
    Not saying that the current DSC settings coded into our car are the best but that they could be.
    It would be awesome to have settings manipulable like they are in the flash and transmission flashes.
    Threshold for intervening, severity of intervening and rate of recovery post intervention.

    Now I believe our cars are capable of braking the inside wheel to pull the car around the corner and that this is how the eDiff functions but currently only to eliminate wheel spin. Going more aggressive could be better, if it was possible to enable that feature.
    Best:11.79@119mph on stock turbos.

    FBO+Meth Port injection, GC Turbos, fuel-it stage2, JB4, Trebila flash.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    343
    Rep Points
    484.1
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    5


    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    It is common practice in the Miata/MX-5 crowd to leave the bars stock when installing quality coilovers (ohlins,fox,penske etc.) with the right springs and quality shocks this leaves more range of free motion to each wheels while keeping good traction in corners. Those who install of-the-shelf shocks and springs often add bars to fine tune there setup.
    TOY:M/T 2008 135i
    JB4/MHD TREBILA Custom Tune, Hexon RR600 ,Kittyless DP, 5'' Intercooler, PR Inlets, VTT Outlets, VRSF Intake + Tial BOV, BMS Meth Kit, Koni FSD Shocks, 335is 2x Engine Mounts, RTD Shifter, Spec Stage 3 Clutch, MFactory Flywheel, E46 M3 Trans Mounts, Rear Subrame Race Inserts, Black Series Diff bushings + Diff Lockdown, 335is Guibo, Wavetrac LSD, DSS Axles....more to come..

    Toy #2: 2010 Mazda Miata GT

    Daily: 2014 Audi Q5 TDI

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    357
    Rep Points
    937.9
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10



    Yes Reputation No
    All good points.
    I kept my sways stock in the e46 as well. I'll likely be able to get what I want from the car with spring changes and adjustments: time will tell!

    I have my Swifts sitting here already but I think I need a few pieces to convert the KWs to accept the smaller 6" id springs. Might need to switch over the Vorshlag camber plates as well to fit the springs, which will give me another -.5* of camber adjustment.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    63
    Rep Points
    150.9
    Mentioned
    21 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    Im going to get a custom spring/coil setup in the future too- the shop which did my alignment advised me to, because they said springs from my ST XTA are a little bit too soft in the rear, especially for the HP now... I only know that the car really is a ton of fun on the track and drives nice! But i was really impressed how much the M3 Bits/RSFB made a difference.

    What do you think do the AKG lower strut mounts do? I know that the oem are not that nice, but 150$ are not that cheap and my imagination is that they wont really have a big effect?
    135i 10/2009: MHD 102 Octan Custom Map, DP by Stevan, TTE550, MMP Relocation Inlets, ST XTA, M3 FCA, PU Bushings, AD Thermostat Mod, NGK plugs, BOV Mod, FMIC by HG Motorsport, Chargepipe Custom, IS Clutch, Diff Lock Down, CDV off, Clutch Spring off, IRP Shifter, RB PCV, Walbro 455, UCP by Gunna, PP ESD + MSD delete, Ferodo DS2500/Performance + Zimmermann CoatZ.

    To-Do: SK Challenge Diffusor, LSD, Recaro Pole Positions

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    357
    Rep Points
    937.9
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10



    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by frontside0815 Click here to enlarge
    Im going to get a custom spring/coil setup in the future too- the shop which did my alignment advised me to, because they said springs from my ST XTA are a little bit too soft in the rear, especially for the HP now... I only know that the car really is a ton of fun on the track and drives nice! But i was really impressed how much the M3 Bits/RSFB made a difference.

    What do you think do the AKG lower strut mounts do? I know that the oem are not that nice, but 150$ are not that cheap and my imagination is that they wont really have a big effect?
    Anything softening the connection between the strut and the chassis will cause slow response time in parts that matter, as well as instability and inconsistency. The AKG lower mount gives a more direct connection between the strut and the chassis, letting the shocks do their job way better and removing any float or mush out back, especially when every other bushing has been upgraded, that puts even more stress on the weakest links.

    https://www.akgmotorsport.com/produc...hings-e8x-e9x/

    Click here to enlarge

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    100
    Rep Points
    140.5
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I love your build and am learning a lot from reading it.

    Experienced a lot of problems with limp mode, and seems like the CSF radiator will help my car last longer on hot HPDE days.

    Hope you end up keeping this one and pushing it further!

    Do you know if the additional CSF oil cooler is a direct swap for the stock one, or is it an extra oil cooler, similar to what the 335is had installed from the factory?

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Culver City, CA
    Posts
    357
    Rep Points
    937.9
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    10



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Karura Click here to enlarge
    I love your build and am learning a lot from reading it.

    Experienced a lot of problems with limp mode, and seems like the CSF radiator will help my car last longer on hot HPDE days.

    Hope you end up keeping this one and pushing it further!

    Do you know if the additional CSF oil cooler is a direct swap for the stock one, or is it an extra oil cooler, similar to what the 335is had installed from the factory?
    Thanks! Will keep pushing for now.

    The CSF oil cooler is a stock oil cooler replacement, so not an additional unit. Direct fit, larger capacity and better cooling properties. I did get my oil temps up towards the end of the day and experiences on/off limp mode during only one of the 5 20 minute sessions, which is super impressive. The temps outside were pretty cool, however, so I may have some work to do on oil cooling still in the future, but there has been a MAJOR improvement over stock.

    Some tuning work has been done to the tables to keep oil temps at a lower threshold as well which is something worth exploring with a custom tune.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Vicenza, Italy
    Posts
    4,199
    Rep Points
    3,185.9
    Mentioned
    69 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    32


    Yes Reputation No
    Nice. Coilovers will be my next big purchase probably.
    2011 335is DCT, looking for new car friends in Italy.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •