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    The attack of the smashed PS pulley: Aftermarket Pulley + Engine Mount Recommendations

    Happy New Year all!

    After reading all these PS pump pulley horror stories where the broken pulley can lead to the engine eating the belt, I decided to swap out my original engine mounts with the IS engine mounts. I figured stiffer mounts will prevent contact between the pulley and the subframe. But I was wrong. After hitting a deep pothole, I felt some vibrations in the steering wheel and here is the result:

    Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

    Luckily, the belt is still intact and on the remaining part of the pulley so no engine damage there. As a temporary precaution, I opted to use an aluminum pulley instead of the OEM plastic ones:

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-...427553955~ham/

    Since aluminum would bend but not crack it's perfect for this application: It wont let the belt loose even if it deforms. Besides, it is cheaper than the OEM pulley on ECS.

    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

    My only concern with this is that it would transfer more force to the engine if pulley smashes the subframe again. So I still need to get some stiffer engine mounts.

    I am currently looking at AD Engineering and Black Forest Engineering mounts. Does anyone have any experience with these? Are there any significant NVH increase with these? Does anyone have any additional recommendations?

    Thanks everyone!

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    If the AD engine mount fails, it will be catastrophic due to the design. I would stay away from any engine mount that will drop the motor if the bolt fails like the AD mounts would fail.
    Stuff n thangs

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    I have the stage 2 BFE mounts and also an aluminum PS pulley, although not an ECS one. The stage 2 mounts are a little stiffer than stock mounts but no noticeable nvh. The stage 1 mounts are more comparable to stock mounts but stiffer. I would go with these unless you plan on running 800hp or more. My 2 cents

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by The Convert Click here to enlarge
    If the AD engine mount fails, it will be catastrophic due to the design. I would stay away from any engine mount that will drop the motor if the bolt fails like the AD mounts would fail.
    x2 I do not like AD engineering mounts at all

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    ECS sells a 50 durometer solid rubber mount by 034 Motorsports. They look like a decent option.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-034motor.../034-509-005x/

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by The Convert Click here to enlarge
    If the AD engine mount fails, it will be catastrophic due to the design. I would stay away from any engine mount that will drop the motor if the bolt fails like the AD mounts would fail.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Milan Click here to enlarge
    x2 I do not like AD engineering mounts at all
    Have any actually failed?? And to be honest if that's your reasoning for not running that mount then you should be terrified at the thought of being in an automobile. We all have tens, if not hundreds of point-of-failure sources on our cars that can lead to catastrophic failure.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by The Convert Click here to enlarge
    If the AD engine mount fails, it will be catastrophic due to the design. I would stay away from any engine mount that will drop the motor if the bolt fails like the AD mounts would fail.
    Noted, this is a very good point!
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdaddyaaron Click here to enlarge
    Have any actually failed?? And to be honest if that's your reasoning for not running that mount then you should be terrified at the thought of being in an automobile. We all have tens, if not hundreds of point-of-failure sources on our cars that can lead to catastrophic failure.
    It looks like the way the mounts are designed allows a ton of shear forces to be acted on the bolt. Not a lot of parts of the car places a ton of shear forces laterally on a bolt. Whether or not the bolt will actually shear due to these forces is another question.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ericbh77 Click here to enlarge
    I have the stage 2 BFE mounts and also an aluminum PS pulley, although not an ECS one. The stage 2 mounts are a little stiffer than stock mounts but no noticeable nvh. The stage 1 mounts are more comparable to stock mounts but stiffer. I would go with these unless you plan on running 800hp or more. My 2 cents
    Which aluminum pulley are you running?

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    Pulley to subframe contact is a problem with 07- early 08 cars. BMW did something to correct the issue not sure exactly what it was. Maybe someone can chime in and share

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    can't you notch the subframe or bash it with a hammer to add a bit more clearance?
    E92 Bren Tune / E90 PTF Tune / E70 Twin Turbo Diesel JBD

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    more info here

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...-and-Subframe)


    How does it happen? Hit a bump hard enough and the inner (closest to the engine) edge of the power steering pulley might come into contact with the subframe.

    What does BMW say? SIB 11 09 08
    E82, E88 (1 Series) with N54 engine up to 4/08
    E90, E92, E93 (3 Series) with N54 engine up to 4/08 except xi models

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Optigrab Click here to enlarge
    more info here
    Thanks!

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
    can't you notch the subframe or bash it with a hammer to add a bit more clearance?
    I am rather nervous about modifying the subframe myself. It is a support element after all. I would much rather get the revised subframe: PN:31116785639 ?? I could not find any sources to confirm that they are any different tho. Is it a good idea to get a used subframe? These things are 600 dollars a pop brand new...

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    I didn't even know those aluminum ones existed. Nice


    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Bob Loblaw Click here to enlarge
    ECS sells a 50 durometer solid rubber mount by 034 Motorsports. They look like a decent option.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-034motor.../034-509-005x/
    I installed a driver side one of these last week. So far, all good. Seems a BIT stiffer then OEM but nearly identical.




    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by psychosinmylobby Click here to enlarge
    I am rather nervous about modifying the subframe myself. It is a support element after all. I would much rather get the revised subframe: PN:31116785639 ?? I could not find any sources to confirm that they are any different tho. Is it a good idea to get a used subframe? These things are 600 dollars a pop brand new...


    With my thorough Iphone flashlight inspection, I seem to have plenty of clearance ('10) but will try to grab a shot of the area when under the car in the next day or so to compare.
    2010 N54 - DocRace - Motiv - CKI - TCKR - Volk - ER - CSF - Vorsteiner

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    Checking the bolts that attach the PS pump to the engine block may be a good idea as well:



    + 1 on 034 motorsport engine mounts too.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by psychosinmylobby Click here to enlarge
    Noted, this is a very good point!

    It looks like the way the mounts are designed allows a ton of shear forces to be acted on the bolt. Not a lot of parts of the car places a ton of shear forces laterally on a bolt. Whether or not the bolt will actually shear due to these forces is another question.

    Which aluminum pulley are you running?
    Non stop tuning. DO NOT BUY ALUMINUM CRANK PULLEY! Power steering pulley part # NST53099

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R.G. Click here to enlarge
    With my thorough Iphone flashlight inspection, I seem to have plenty of clearance ('10) but will try to grab a shot of the area when under the car in the next day or so to compare.
    I measured mine with a caliper today, got about 11/16" clearance from the subframe. Mine is a 2007 so I am going to guess this is the old version subframe.

    What year is yours? Were you able to measure the clearance?

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ericbh77 Click here to enlarge
    Non stop tuning. DO NOT BUY ALUMINUM CRANK PULLEY! Power steering pulley part # NST53099
    Yeah, definitely do not change the weight of your harmonic balancer.
    That ps pulley is a nice piece; but damn 4x the price...

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    Im selling my ad mounts if interested!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by The Convert Click here to enlarge
    If the AD engine mount fails, it will be catastrophic due to the design. I would stay away from any engine mount that will drop the motor if the bolt fails like the AD mounts would fail.
    I had a big block nova drag car, and drag mounts are designed exactly like AD motor mounts. Guys making serious power all use them. Never heard of them ever breaking & I doubt Andys design will ever break because the bolt failed.

  18. #18
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by psychosinmylobby Click here to enlarge

    What year is yours? Were you able to measure the clearance?
    $#@!e, completely spaced it. Will be back under it likely Friday night and will get the #s for you. This one is a 2010
    2010 N54 - DocRace - Motiv - CKI - TCKR - Volk - ER - CSF - Vorsteiner

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    Daily - '11 F02, 22" HR springs+links Click here to enlarge N54

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    Shear strength of a 5/8" grd8 Bolt is like 27000lbs.... good luck breaking the bolt on my mount.

    You are worried about the bolt breaking when the factor engine mount is cast aluminum and the subframe it's bolted to is sheet aluminum?! Lol

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by andy_divers Click here to enlarge
    Shear strength of a 5/8" grd8 Bolt is like 27000lbs.... good luck breaking the bolt on my mount.

    You are worried about the bolt breaking when the factor engine mount is cast aluminum and the subframe it's bolted to is sheet aluminum?! Lol
    I could not agree more. I have literally had 80% of my factory style mounts strip the cast aluminum threads out of all 4 bolt holes after 1-2 removals. This is extremely common, and happened again yesterday on brand new mounts, I put in 2 weeks ago when reinstalling. Its easy to fix, just put a nut on top of it, and its fixed. People worrying about that bolt breaking, either have no experience with the factory mounts stripping, or just aren't thinking clearly. That bolt breaking is a non issue.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ericbh77 Click here to enlarge
    Non stop tuning. DO NOT BUY ALUMINUM CRANK PULLEY! Power steering pulley part # NST53099
    I will warn you now. They DO NOT have these pulleys. I ordered one a year ago. They happily took my money, the part never came after 3 months, I tried calling, and emailing. We tried that for about 2 weeks. Nothing, not even a response. Finally I took to posting in everyone of their instagram pictures that I was scammed. Well that got their attention, after 4 months they told me, that would need to machine the pulley, and it would be 2 more months. Needless to say, I asked for a refund, and I kept the stock pulley. If anyone cares, I did put the ECS cast aluminum pulley on the car yesterday. As rough as the casting is, its a very very light piece, almost as light as the factory plastic one, and fits great. Moral of the story Buyer Beware for NST BMW Pulleys

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by andy_divers Click here to enlarge
    Shear strength of a 5/8" grd8 Bolt is like 27000lbs.... good luck breaking the bolt on my mount.

    You are worried about the bolt breaking when the factor engine mount is cast aluminum and the subframe it's bolted to is sheet aluminum?! Lol
    Yeah...because material failures never happen.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by andy_divers Click here to enlarge
    Shear strength of a 5/8" grd8 Bolt is like 27000lbs.... good luck breaking the bolt on my mount.
    You are worried about the bolt breaking when the factor engine mount is cast aluminum and the subframe it's bolted to is sheet aluminum?! Lol
    Cast aluminum is not weak in compression, and the subframe is formed aluminum sheet which creates a lot of strength and rigidity over a flat sheet. You should know this...I know you know this.

    My point is simply, if your mount fails, for whatever reason, the engine will drop. If ANY of the other mounts fail, it won't. If a solid mount fails, the engine will hop up and down on the mount because the bolt stretched and snapped. If it's an OEM style mount, the damping material wore out and the engine will just sag a little and rock excessively. Yours has the worste outcome IF a failure occurs. That is all I am saying. I never said your mounts will fail.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tony@VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    I could not agree more. I have literally had 80% of my factory style mounts strip the cast aluminum threads out of all 4 bolt holes after 1-2 removals. This is extremely common, and happened again yesterday on brand new mounts, I put in 2 weeks ago when reinstalling. Its easy to fix, just put a nut on top of it, and its fixed. People worrying about that bolt breaking, either have no experience with the factory mounts stripping, or just aren't thinking clearly. That bolt breaking is a non issue.
    See above response.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Milan Click here to enlarge
    Yeah...because material failures never happen.
    IKR!
    Stuff n thangs

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by psychosinmylobby Click here to enlarge
    I measured mine with a caliper today, got about 11/16" clearance from the subframe. Mine is a 2007 so I am going to guess this is the old version subframe.




    What year is yours? Were you able to measure the clearance?



    Yeah, definitely do not change the weight of your harmonic balancer.
    That ps pulley is a nice piece; but damn 4x the price...


    I've got approx. 1.5" from the closest point on the subframe by driver well
    2010 N54 - DocRace - Motiv - CKI - TCKR - Volk - ER - CSF - Vorsteiner

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    Daily - '11 F02, 22" HR springs+links Click here to enlarge N54

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R.G. Click here to enlarge
    I've got approx. 1.5" from the closest point on the subframe by driver well
    Thanks for following up! That's twice the clearance I have! Is this from the PS Pulley to the subframe?

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