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    Blackstone Report High on Iron (57)?

    Hey everyone, just got my Blackstone report. The oil was taken after around 6,000 miles and it has about 96K on the odometer. Car is an E92 2007 N54.

    Any ideas why iron is so high compared to universal averages?
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    From Wiki, I was searching for Iron keyword in the engine:

    The N54B30 does not use the second generation Valvetronic technology found in the naturally aspirated N52 and the newer (single) twin-scroll turbocharged straight-6 N55. The engine block of the N54 is derived from the older generation BMW M54B30 engine - all aluminum with cast iron cylinder liners.

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    Assuming your running synthetic, your flash point is 60-degrees lower than new synthetic oil.
    the fact that your 5W-30 oil now is as thick as a 10W-30 oil and some 5W-40 oils tells me it was well done at being a lubricant that would still meet BMW spec.

    This thickening and low flash point indicates substantial level of oxidation and sludge creation.

    I estimate (since unknown brand of oil) about a 20% oxidation levels, any good synthetic is at or below 5% in the most severe oil test requirements.

    The higher than universal copper wear is also a concern.

    I hope this helps in selecting your next oil and change interval

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    @ticat928 I'm running BMW OEM Oil. I change it at about 6,000 miles, which can equate to 6-8 months since I don't drive around much.

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    Definitely not good to be above the averages, but I'd run another sample to see if you get some consistency. I've been told by my shop you need to compare your own samples over time as different engines will wear differently. If you see a worsening in iron and copper, I'd start to get concerned. With the s65 at least, copper tends to point to high bearing wear.
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    Bearings are where i'd be looking...Watch it over time. Bearings and ledges are going to be an increasing issue as the motors age.
    E88 N54 Alpinweiss/Coral Red/Motiv HTA 3586r Tial .82AR/Motiv Port Fuel/BMR 3.5" Exhaust/ER CP/Synapse/VRSF FMIC/Rob Beck PCV Valve + Cap/ST Coilovers/M3 FCA + Tension Rods/M3 Subframe Bushings/M3 FSB/AA Strutbrace/DINAN Camber Plates/Apex ARC-8/Project Kics/VAC Hubs/Rogue Transmission Mounts/Alpina TCU Flash/Icarbon/Kerscher/BMW Performance
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    4 out of 4 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    The BMW oil is not a true synthetic, the TWS oil used for the v-10's is a type 3 synthetic with flash point of only 397-degrees.

    Since you are at a higher mileage and out of warranty, Mobile-1 0W-40 European formula is a much better performing type 4 oil with a flash point of 450-degees (a figure that only a type 4 oil achieves).

    It is also a way better value, I bought it at Walmart for $ 22.50/ 5 quart jug, it is the only oil specified by Nissan for the 2014 GTR and exceeds all BMW specs.

    The 0W allows oil pressure getting to bearings quicker on start up, the 40W will keep even loosened bearing clearances in hydrodynamic suspension on the hottest days not to mention reduced cylinder bore and ring wear due to lubricant less likely to be burnt away by combustion gases at the top ring location (higher flash point). The price allows you to change oil every 6-months even if it is only at 5,000 miles

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    Thanks. I'll def get another sample. I'll probably change oil at 4,000 miles. I think I've had that oil in there for a year due to limited driving.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ticat928 Click here to enlarge
    The BMW oil is not a true synthetic, the TWS oil used for the v-10's is a type 3 synthetic with flash point of only 397-degrees.

    Since you are at a higher mileage and out of warranty, Mobile-1 0W-40 European formula is a much better performing type 4 oil with a flash point of 450-degees (a figure that only a type 4 oil achieves).

    It is also a way better value, I bought it at Walmart for $ 22.50/ 5 quart jug, it is the only oil specified by Nissan for the 2014 GTR and exceeds all BMW specs.

    The 0W allows oil pressure getting to bearings quicker on start up, the 40W will keep even loosened bearing clearances in hydrodynamic suspension on the hottest days not to mention reduced cylinder bore and ring wear due to lubricant less likely to be burnt away by combustion gases at the top ring location (higher flash point). The price allows you to change oil every 6-months even if it is only at 5,000 miles
    +1. OP should be running a performance group 4 oil or better. German Castrol (now referred to as Belgian Castrol, due to the change in manufacturing location lol) 0w-30 euro formula and mobile 1 0w-40 euro formula were always the top two choices. motul xcess 8100 5w-40, amsoil 5w-30/5w-40 euro formula, and redline 5w-30 are also pretty good. Stay away from royal purple if you plan to continue with over 4k mile change intervals. Oem bmw oil is hydrocracked, aka not a true full synthetic.
    Last edited by Stucks; 08-15-2014 at 07:19 AM.
    2008 e92 335i: JB4 G5 ISO/BMS back end flash, fbo, e85, inlets, Rb turbos, level 10 valve body + converter, water/methanol.....and a lot more....

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    OP are you running ethanol or meth?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ticat928 Click here to enlarge
    The BMW oil is not a true synthetic, the TWS oil used for the v-10's is a type 3 synthetic with flash point of only 397-degrees.

    Since you are at a higher mileage and out of warranty, Mobile-1 0W-40 European formula is a much better performing type 4 oil with a flash point of 450-degees (a figure that only a type 4 oil achieves).

    It is also a way better value, I bought it at Walmart for $ 22.50/ 5 quart jug, it is the only oil specified by Nissan for the 2014 GTR and exceeds all BMW specs.

    The 0W allows oil pressure getting to bearings quicker on start up, the 40W will keep even loosened bearing clearances in hydrodynamic suspension on the hottest days not to mention reduced cylinder bore and ring wear due to lubricant less likely to be burnt away by combustion gases at the top ring location (higher flash point). The price allows you to change oil every 6-months even if it is only at 5,000 miles
    Very knowledgeable post, repped!
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    i use the castrol euro 0-40 in my car

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    Are you running water/meth injection? If so and you have used tap water instead of distilled than can definitely be a source of iron
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    @Aerotest I only ran E50 for the last two fill ups prior to the oil change.

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    @rader1 no meth injection or anything. I am running 25/75 mix of coolant/distilled water tho. Plus a bottle of water wetter.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    @Aerotest I only ran E50 for the last two fill ups prior to the oil change.
    He's asking that as ethanol is relatively acidic, as is methanol.

    With that said I really doubt E50 is the cause of any potential problem. These motors have been seeing ethanol for half a decade at this point, we haven't seen anything that could even speculatively be considered "ethanol related damage".

    I'd just track the iron levels closely. It could be wear on the cylinder liner but I doubt it.
    E88 N54 Alpinweiss/Coral Red/Motiv HTA 3586r Tial .82AR/Motiv Port Fuel/BMR 3.5" Exhaust/ER CP/Synapse/VRSF FMIC/Rob Beck PCV Valve + Cap/ST Coilovers/M3 FCA + Tension Rods/M3 Subframe Bushings/M3 FSB/AA Strutbrace/DINAN Camber Plates/Apex ARC-8/Project Kics/VAC Hubs/Rogue Transmission Mounts/Alpina TCU Flash/Icarbon/Kerscher/BMW Performance
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135pats Click here to enlarge

    I'd just track the iron levels closely. It could be wear on the cylinder liner but I doubt it.
    I have not talked about cam lobe wear, since I just do not see it anymore (all my cars I can visually inspect a camshaft lobe by removing the oil filler cap and using a small LED flash light)

    Or using this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/SecurityM...QAWg&gclsrc=ds

    If you have wear patterns showing a heavier better quality oil than the BMW 5W-30 would be recommended

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ticat928 Click here to enlarge
    I have not talked about cam lobe wear, since I just do not see it anymore (all my cars I can visually inspect a camshaft lobe by removing the oil filler cap and using a small LED flash light)

    Or using this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/SecurityM...QAWg&gclsrc=ds

    If you have wear patterns showing a heavier better quality oil than the BMW 5W-30 would be recommended
    Yep. Bearing ledge issues are going to start popping up as well.

    Click here to enlarge
    E88 N54 Alpinweiss/Coral Red/Motiv HTA 3586r Tial .82AR/Motiv Port Fuel/BMR 3.5" Exhaust/ER CP/Synapse/VRSF FMIC/Rob Beck PCV Valve + Cap/ST Coilovers/M3 FCA + Tension Rods/M3 Subframe Bushings/M3 FSB/AA Strutbrace/DINAN Camber Plates/Apex ARC-8/Project Kics/VAC Hubs/Rogue Transmission Mounts/Alpina TCU Flash/Icarbon/Kerscher/BMW Performance
    F30 335 X-Drive EBII....PPK otherwise Stock
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    Fun stuff! Is anyone in the 200K mile club yet?

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135pats Click here to enlarge
    Yep. Bearing ledge issues are going to start popping up as well.

    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    Fun stuff! Is anyone in the 200K mile club yet?
    You will be lucky if you get to 100K, if we all got you worried perhaps now is the time to make you that low ball offer to take it off your hands LOL.

    Seriously I do not know, need to search some forums on that, but do know you are in better boat than the E60 Owners who have been mislead that 15,000 mile oil change intervals is OK on 8300-rpm motor using a Hydro-cracked type 3 oil.

    Perhaps the higher resale on an N54 speaks to the better reliability experience vs. the E60.

    If you are the original Owner and have been changing oil every 6000-miles since new, with the recommendations made you have a better chance than most of reaching 200K

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    Yeah car was a lease up to 30K and I've been pretty good at changing the oil at 6,000 miles. Even did the tranny, diff and brakes. Had a couple track days too which I changed the oil immediately.

    The worst problem this car had was changing all injectors, coils, spark plugs then BMW couldn't flash on top GIAC so they bricked it and got me an MSD81 DME. Oh yeah, don't forget the HPFP.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ticat928 Click here to enlarge
    You will be lucky if you get to 100K, if we all got you worried perhaps now is the time to make you that low ball offer to take it off your hands LOL.

    Seriously I do not know, need to search some forums on that, but do know you are in better boat than the E60 Owners who have been mislead that 15,000 mile oil change intervals is OK on 8300-rpm motor using a Hydro-cracked type 3 oil.

    Perhaps the higher resale on an N54 speaks to the better reliability experience vs. the E60.

    If you are the original Owner and have been changing oil every 6000-miles since new, with the recommendations made you have a better chance than most of reaching 200K

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    Fun stuff! Is anyone in the 200K mile club yet?
    I *think* there was a dude over on E90 who hit 2 bills. There are lord knows how many over 100, i'll get there in the E8x eventully as i'm about to tick over 60K.

    There's nothing particularly exotic about the 54 outside of it being needlessly complex. Take care of it, and it'll breeze past 150K. Not saying it'll be cheap but so far as the motor's concerned, that's no biggie.
    E88 N54 Alpinweiss/Coral Red/Motiv HTA 3586r Tial .82AR/Motiv Port Fuel/BMR 3.5" Exhaust/ER CP/Synapse/VRSF FMIC/Rob Beck PCV Valve + Cap/ST Coilovers/M3 FCA + Tension Rods/M3 Subframe Bushings/M3 FSB/AA Strutbrace/DINAN Camber Plates/Apex ARC-8/Project Kics/VAC Hubs/Rogue Transmission Mounts/Alpina TCU Flash/Icarbon/Kerscher/BMW Performance
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    Hey everyone, just got my Blackstone report. The oil was taken after around 6,000 miles and it has about 96K on the odometer. Car is an E92 2007 N54.

    Any ideas why iron is so high compared to universal averages?
    Change PDF's to JPG's...

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135pats Click here to enlarge
    He's asking that as ethanol is relatively acidic, as is methanol.

    With that said I really doubt E50 is the cause of any potential problem. These motors have been seeing ethanol for half a decade at this point, we haven't seen anything that could even speculatively be considered "ethanol related damage".

    I'd just track the iron levels closely. It could be wear on the cylinder liner but I doubt it.
    FTR...I ran 100% E85 for a year prior to my last oil analysis with E85 injection for half the life of the oil prior to that analysis. My iron was count was 19.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SteveAZ Click here to enlarge
    FTR...I ran 100% E85 for a year prior to my last oil analysis with E85 injection for half the life of the oil prior to that analysis. My iron was count was 19.
    If you go to the Mobil-1 site for this 0-30 oil you are using, the selector guide says that you have to use the 0-40 oil instead.

    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_0W-30.aspx

    I have had less than satisfactory experience with any of the green cap energy saving oils by Mobil. These are good oils but to achieve noticeable gas mileage savings they have all been formulated at the low viscosity range of each oil category, thus a 0-30 Mobil 1 is closer to another brands 0-20 in viscosity.

    In the case of Castrol 0-30 European formula oil it goes the opposite direction and actually maintains a better high temperature viscosity than other brand 5-40 oils

    I mention all this since your copper is a little high, and needs to be watched, could be a one time contamination and not show on the next report

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