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  1. #1
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    Help with driveline issue - 2008 135i

    Hi guys,

    car has 75k KMs, stock clutch and diff. Just had my pinion seal replace ten days ago because it was leaking. Shop confirmed there was a lot of oil in the diff and there was no concern with damage as we caught it early. Since it's been replaced I've put on 3k KMs (trip to wedding this weekend) and have noticed a humming noise. It happens in gear, any gear, and is no way related to speed or rpm. If I press the clutch it goes away, depress clutch (in gear) it comes back.

    im curious what the issue could be? Wrong oil? Possible damage or alignment issue by the shop? I didn't notice anything after I left but since my long trip it's gotten very obvious. You can even hear it when you roll down the windows.

    Help me Click here to enlarge
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

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    Today the noise is now there with clutch in or out at highway speed. Seems to be speed dependant but also gets louder with more rpm.... Going to talk with shop at 8am.
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

  3. #3
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    What did the shop say?

    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
    : http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    What did the shop say?
    Sorry forgot to update - the shop had a rookie do the pinion seal so when he buttoned back up the exhaust he reused the old rusty hardware which created a high pitch rattle. Also, the heat shielding came loose and was rubbing on the driveshaft under load. Simple stuff that nearly gave me and the foreman heart attacks haha
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

  5. #5
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Wescuddles Click here to enlarge
    the shop had a rookie do the pinion seal so when he buttoned back up the exhaust he reused the old rusty hardware which created a high pitch rattle.
    Even a rookie should know better.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Wescuddles Click here to enlarge
    Also, the heat shielding came loose and was rubbing on the driveshaft under load. Simple stuff that nearly gave me and the foreman heart attacks haha
    No worries as long as it all got resolved.

    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Nvm, saw you have it fixed.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Blaizon Click here to enlarge
    Nvm, saw you have it fixed.
    Its the thought that counts lol
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

  8. #8
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    I have to bump this thread unfortunately. I have driveline noise again at speeds from 50-100kmh mostly on decel in gear. I asked them to inspect the diff when they did the pinion seal the first time which they admit they never did. I'm potentially looking at a new diff or have them replace the pinion.

    Can anyone tell me if they would have inspected the pinion like I asked originally would there have been anything they could do to prevent this issue? I feel robbed here. I took it in for a seal and now my pinion is $#@!ed. Didn't make any noises before bringing it in. They say because the pumpkin was low on oil (the level was down 1/8") when I brought it in that they can't prove it was anything on their end.

    Any help would be appreciated.
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

  9. #9
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    I know this is a shot in the dark here but it's only happening under decel, 3-6 gear speeds, goes away with clutch in and when accelerating. I've done some google searches and it appears the noise is likely loose pinion bearing preload. Is this an easy fix? I don't want this shop milking me for more money.
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

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    I hope the pinion was properly torqued as me and @alex@ABRhouston told you to have this done by a pro, definitely not a rookie.....

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by AlexQuattro Click here to enlarge
    I hope the pinion was properly torqued as me and @alex@ABRhouston told you to have this done by a pro, definitely not a rookie.....
    Shop claimed 40+ years experience. When I picked the car up the first time they said they inspected everything like I asked. When I spoke to the foreman after I had to bring it back for the new humming noise they told me a guy with less experience did the seal. Obviously a rookie considering he put my exhaust back together with cracked gaskets and rusted hardware. After the second time I never noticed a noise - I'm half deaf and have a straight pipe, my girlfriend noticed it the following morning. When I spoke to the foreman again he told me he never inspected the diff or the work done - just that it "looked" complete when the other inexperienced tech finished.

    I shouldn't be expected to ask a shop to properly torque a pinion. I'm not an auto tech. I went by their word and obviously that was a mistake.

    Now, fault aside, what options do I have? Ask if the tech torqued the pinion properly after installing the new seal? If the answer is yes or no, then what? I don't want to be on the hook for a shops mistake because they're pulling the wool over my eyes so to speak.

    Thanks
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    You have to understand that the best any of us can do here is guess.... You're the only one that's heard the noise. The car isn't on a lift right now with me under it.

    I doubt you're diff is $#@!ed as it didn't run out of oil.

    Possible noise sources:
    - driveshaft / driveshaft center bearing
    - differential (pinion torque)
    - something else is rubbing somewhere

    Ask the tech how many ft/lbs he torqued the pinion to. Make sure it is the correct torque. If no, it's their fault and they should do it properly/repair your diff. If yes, I'm pretty sure we can eliminate the diff as the source of noise, so it's more likely some other stupid (not expensive) mistake.

    Click here to enlarge

  13. #13
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by AlexQuattro Click here to enlarge
    You have to understand that the best any of us can do here is guess.... You're the only one that's heard the noise. The car isn't on a lift right now with me under it.

    I doubt you're diff is $#@!ed as it didn't run out of oil.

    Possible noise sources:
    - driveshaft / driveshaft center bearing
    - differential (pinion torque)
    - something else is rubbing somewhere

    Ask the tech how many ft/lbs he torqued the pinion to. Make sure it is the correct torque. If no, it's their fault and they should do it properly/repair your diff. If yes, I'm pretty sure we can eliminate the diff as the source of noise, so it's more likely some other stupid (not expensive) mistake.

    Click here to enlarge
    Thanks! That's the answer I was looking for. I've searched everywhere (forums, google) and can't find what the pinion should be torqued to. Any idea where to find those specs?
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Wescuddles Click here to enlarge
    Any idea where to find those specs?
    BMW dealership.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Just an update; spoke with the shop that did the pinion seal and asked for a step by step on their install. They originally said they didn't remove the pinion but later spoke about having the pinion on the bench. I didn't bother saying 'thought you didn't have the pinion out' because he was giving up too much valuable information. He said they didn't torque the pinion nut to any spec but instead put an open impact gun on the end and tightened until tight. So the local BMW foreman finally called me back and I told him what the other shop said. He goes "ohhhhh noooo" lol. Apparently there is no torque spec for that nut but you're supposed to mark it before removing it to know where to tighten it back to. Basically he said if that's the way they installed it then he's 100% certain it's either too tight or too loose which would damage the pinion bearing.
    So the car is going into BMW in the coming weeks when I find time for them to determine if the pinion nut is too tight or too loose.


    Thanks @MFactory for the knowledge to help me ask the right questions!
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

  16. #16
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    The only way to know true pinion nut torque, is to measure the turning torque of the pinion preload on the bearings.

    tighten- check turning torque- tighten- check turning torque- repeat till good. the ring and carrier MUST be removed in order to PROPERLY check the preload on the pinion.


    on repairs in the car, a common procedure is to mark the nut and shaft to each other, remove with a torque wrench to see what the initial torque was- perform whatever repair, then tighten back to that mark and add a few NM of torque to it. Its how we do it, and how I build differentials. Haven't had an issue. ever.
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