Close

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 28
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    49
    Rep Points
    43.1
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No

    No Start No Turn over. VIDEO






    Sorry if this is in the wrong spot.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    6,432
    Rep Points
    7,159.9
    Mentioned
    97 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    72


    Yes Reputation No
    If the key is faulty you would not be able to start it at all, because that blocks the ignition.
    It sounds to me like there is something physically wrong with your startermotor.
    It gets the start command, starts to turn, but then immediately stops again.
    So even there it shows nothing wrong with your key. If the key was the problem the startermotor would never be activated.
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    49
    Rep Points
    43.1
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DavidV Click here to enlarge
    If the key is faulty you would not be able to start it at all, because that blocks the ignition.
    It sounds to me like there is something physically wrong with your startermotor.
    It gets the start command, starts to turn, but then immediately stops again.
    So even there it shows nothing wrong with your key. If the key was the problem the startermotor would never be activated.

    Yea I would think it would be the starter as well it sounds stuck, but I've changed it twice and it tested good. What if the flywheel was somehow stuck but tow starting actually puts enough pressure on the flywheel to turn it to make it rotate?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    6,432
    Rep Points
    7,159.9
    Mentioned
    97 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    72


    Yes Reputation No
    Could be a crank rotary sensor malfunctioning that makes the starter stop it's action, but that should give more problems than just not start the car...
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    35
    Rep Points
    49.1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    So you replaced the neutral safety switch? (you said clutch sensor) are you sure its being triggered when you push down the clutch? have you ever tried pushing the clutch down then trying to start then letting up again kinda like pumping the clutch down over and over while pushing start? Iv'e never had this problem on my bmw so im not sure if it works the same way but my work truck has a finicky neutral safety switch and i have to do that sometimes.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1
    Rep Points
    0.1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Are you getting any trouble codes, and do you have a piggyback tuner hooked up.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Houston under a book
    Posts
    1,555
    Rep Points
    3,000.5
    Mentioned
    100 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    31


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    With the intake off like when you do a valve cleaning can you jump the solenoid to the battery cable and does that allow the engine to turn over normally (it's how I spin the engine to close valves with a screw driver)? Be sure to disable fuel or unplug coils before doing that test (and neutral). If it doesn't spin freely I'd test for a voltage drop on the battery side, maybe there's an issue on the positive cable. While there you can also (with two people) test the solenoid and if it stays energized by the switch or just energizes for a second and stops, maybe that will give you some direction.
    Last edited by V8Bait; 06-24-2014 at 08:46 PM. Reason: clarification

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    125,526
    Rep Points
    35,644.2
    Mentioned
    2255 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    357


    Yes Reputation No
    Update @LncGmz?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    49
    Rep Points
    43.1
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Update @LncGmz?
    Well, I still haven't got it fixed properly. Sad to say it's rigged up until I can make time to go to Dallas to have a indy shop check it out. I have been driving it and what we did was bypass the start button. We wired up a wire from the excite wire on the starter and then from the positive battery terminal and made my own push start button for now. I hate that It's like this, but no one in my area is capable of fixing it. It starts like normal how I have it rigged up. The nice thing about it is i push the regular push start button twice to turn on ingnition and then without having to press clutch in i press my rigged up button. No foot on the clutch lol. Anyway, I also finally got a Bavarian Technic cable and ran diagnostics on it and my CAS module does have an error on it, A0C1. I wish I knew how to code and use winkfp on INPA to try to update the CAS or to program a new one myself. I'm pretty sure that's all it is. I've checked everywhere for a lose wire from front to back. If anyone can remotely do this for me I do have all those coding programs installed, but I don't know how to configure them. I'm willing to pay someone to remotely do it for me. Email me at LncGmz@gmail.com if you know someone who is willing to do this remotely for me. Also when testing the wire from the starter that runs to the CAS module when engagng the start button it's only putting out .4 volts. So as far as I know theres a short somewhere in there or the CAS module itself. If I'm not mistaken the wire from the starter goes to the CAS module then theres wires that go from the CAS module to the start button. So yea this still isn't fixed anyone still want to help? Sorry for the late reply. I wish I got emails when someone comments on here. I don't get on enough. Sorry theres probably typos and I'm all over the place.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    125,526
    Rep Points
    35,644.2
    Mentioned
    2255 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    357


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LncGmz Click here to enlarge
    Well, I still haven't got it fixed properly. Sad to say it's rigged up until I can make time to go to Dallas to have a indy shop check it out. I have been driving it and what we did was bypass the start button. We wired up a wire from the excite wire on the starter and then from the positive battery terminal and made my own push start button for now. I hate that It's like this, but no one in my area is capable of fixing it. It starts like normal how I have it rigged up. The nice thing about it is i push the regular push start button twice to turn on ingnition and then without having to press clutch in i press my rigged up button. No foot on the clutch lol. Anyway, I also finally got a Bavarian Technic cable and ran diagnostics on it and my CAS module does have an error on it, A0C1. I wish I knew how to code and use winkfp on INPA to try to update the CAS or to program a new one myself. I'm pretty sure that's all it is. I've checked everywhere for a lose wire from front to back. If anyone can remotely do this for me I do have all those coding programs installed, but I don't know how to configure them. I'm willing to pay someone to remotely do it for me. Email me at LncGmz@gmail.com if you know someone who is willing to do this remotely for me. Also when testing the wire from the starter that runs to the CAS module when engagng the start button it's only putting out .4 volts. So as far as I know theres a short somewhere in there or the CAS module itself. If I'm not mistaken the wire from the starter goes to the CAS module then theres wires that go from the CAS module to the start button. So yea this still isn't fixed anyone still want to help? Sorry for the late reply. I wish I got emails when someone comments on here. I don't get on enough. Sorry theres probably typos and I'm all over the place.
    Man I have no idea but here's a bump in hoping someone can help you.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Birmingham, United Kingdom
    Posts
    204
    Rep Points
    269.3
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    3


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    OK so I'm bored at work and I've had a search around. Basically the A0C1 error code relates to low voltage problem which is cutting the starter motor out:

    http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...offered-4.html

    http://www.micro-tronik.com/learning...ain-functions/

    I would look at the connector to the battery, the main battery lead which terminates by the fusebox under the glove compartment and the positive and grounding cables in the engine bay.
    Alpine White 2008 6MT 335i - Cobb AP - PTF Tuned - RB Turbos - AR DPs - VRSF 3.5" exhaust - Custom FMIC - 380mm BBK F&R - BMS DCI - M3 DCT LSD - Whiteline subframe bushes - M3 Sways and rear arms - M3 wishbones - ER CP - Spec Stage 3+ clutch and steel SMFW - AST 4100 Coilovers - UUC DSSR -UUC Black tranny mounts - TMS Alu diff bushes - Forge DVs - Aquamist HFS-4 meth - Alufelgen CS7s - BMWP V1 Steering Wheel

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    49
    Rep Points
    43.1
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by idnan Click here to enlarge
    OK so I'm bored at work and I've had a search around. Basically the A0C1 error code relates to low voltage problem which is cutting the starter motor out:

    http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...offered-4.html

    http://www.micro-tronik.com/learning...ain-functions/

    I would look at the connector to the battery, the main battery lead which terminates by the fusebox under the glove compartment and the positive and grounding cables in the engine bay.

    Thank you and will do. I'll post back tmw when I get a chance.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    49
    Rep Points
    43.1
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    Yes Reputation No
    Well I had a look at the fuses. I had already done this before but thought I'd check again because I actually found the diagram in my house ha. So I checked four fuses that have to do with the start stop button. They were number 4,51, 21, 27. It had it listed in that order for some reason. All fuses were okay except for number 27 was actually missing. It needed a 5 amp. So I put one in there. It didn't make a difference, same symptoms.

    Also I found another post where another guy had similar symptoms to mine. It ended up being a fuse in the DME box. I'll have to take a look at that when I get a chance. Can someone provide me a diagram to where the blue wire on the starter leads? I'm pretty sure it goes from starter to CAS module but can someone tell me if it breaks off from the CAS module into the DME and maybe a fuse in there that shorts the connection? I would greatly appreciate that.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    125,526
    Rep Points
    35,644.2
    Mentioned
    2255 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    357


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LncGmz Click here to enlarge
    but can someone tell me if it breaks off from the CAS module into the DME and maybe a fuse in there that shorts the connection?
    Anyone know?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    49
    Rep Points
    43.1
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    Yes Reputation No
    I guess not lol.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Birmingham, United Kingdom
    Posts
    204
    Rep Points
    269.3
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    3


    Yes Reputation No
    I still think it's a voltage issue due to poor connection. In the vid the interior light dims as you turn it over. I'm pretty sure I've never seen the lights dim on mine that much when starting even with the 4 year old battery that I recently replaced.
    Alpine White 2008 6MT 335i - Cobb AP - PTF Tuned - RB Turbos - AR DPs - VRSF 3.5" exhaust - Custom FMIC - 380mm BBK F&R - BMS DCI - M3 DCT LSD - Whiteline subframe bushes - M3 Sways and rear arms - M3 wishbones - ER CP - Spec Stage 3+ clutch and steel SMFW - AST 4100 Coilovers - UUC DSSR -UUC Black tranny mounts - TMS Alu diff bushes - Forge DVs - Aquamist HFS-4 meth - Alufelgen CS7s - BMWP V1 Steering Wheel

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    376
    Rep Points
    487.0
    Mentioned
    35 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    5


    Yes Reputation No
    Its not your key. I would look into a flywheel problem or starter is not installed correctly.

    You could also check you positive cable where it connects by the jump point and make sure there is a good connection.

    If you starter is making noise, and it sounds like it is your not going to have an cas/ews/key problem If you engine cranked and no start then possibly. Since you can tow start it the dme is seeing the signal from the key to release fuel to the injectors.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    8
    Rep Points
    14.8
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Ive been stuck with this same exact problem for a week or so. The starter was replaced about a month ago, and no starter error codes are present currently. The only code is A0C1 - CAS: Output, terminal 50. The battery is new with adequate charge, starter is also less that a month old, the grounds are good, and no corrosion on the rear and front connections. Similar to @LncGmz voltage from the starter to CAS its only at .4V. I also reset the CAS, but still same error. Im thinking either I need a new CAS module, or the wire is burnt out around the CAS. I'm hoping the op @LncGmzhas already resolved this, if not im assuming he just wired a generic push button to the starter positive and cable leading to CAS?

  19. #19
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    561
    Rep Points
    1,883.3
    Mentioned
    25 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    19


    Yes Reputation No
    I had an issue like this on another car before. I did do a quick fix for someone once I found out that supply voltage to the solenoid was not sufficient. I purchased a fog light relay ( 40 amp) from autozone. I wired the coil ground to chassis, the solenoid power to the positive coil, then a direct power through the relay contact to the solenoid. It is exactly what you are doing but the relay working voltage was 1-5 volts to close. So the start procedure was like stock. I am not sure if you can find one with only a .5 volt, but you can see if it works for you.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    8
    Rep Points
    14.8
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ///MPOSTER Click here to enlarge
    I had an issue like this on another car before. I did do a quick fix for someone once I found out that supply voltage to the solenoid was not sufficient. I purchased a fog light relay ( 40 amp) from autozone. I wired the coil ground to chassis, the solenoid power to the positive coil, then a direct power through the relay contact to the solenoid. It is exactly what you are doing but the relay working voltage was 1-5 volts to close. So the start procedure was like stock. I am not sure if you can find one with only a .5 volt, but you can see if it works for you.
    thanks for the info I will try and see if I can rig something up, till I'm able to put another coded cas in.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    56
    Rep Points
    64.5
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by nOshi Click here to enlarge
    thanks for the info I will try and see if I can rig something up, till I'm able to put another coded cas in.
    On another forum a few people have found that the main earth strap between the engine block and chassis was corroded and causing similar issues to yours. It's an exposed braid type cable and it's located right next to the drivers side engine mount on Lhd cars..
    the easiest test for it is to jump start the car with another car with the earth connected to the block. If that works it's your engine earth strap.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    561
    Rep Points
    1,883.3
    Mentioned
    25 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    19


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Aus335iGuy Click here to enlarge
    On another forum a few people have found that the main earth strap between the engine block and chassis was corroded and causing similar issues to yours. It's an exposed braid type cable and it's located right next to the drivers side engine mount on Lhd cars..
    the easiest test for it is to jump start the car with another car with the earth connected to the block. If that works it's your engine earth strap.

    Forgot about that issue.

    Also if you just have jumper cables and connect chassis to the engine block , it should work.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    8
    Rep Points
    14.8
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge - only code that comes up, not sure why it's sideways, oriented correctly on my phone.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Aus335iGuy Click here to enlarge
    On another forum a few people have found that the main earth strap between the engine block and chassis was corroded and causing similar issues to yours. It's an exposed braid type cable and it's located right next to the drivers side engine mount on Lhd cars..
    the easiest test for it is to jump start the car with another car with the earth connected to the block. If that works it's your engine earth strap.
    i wish it was just a ground issue, I checked all the grounds including the one mentioned. All in good condition, even cleaned them up before putting them on. I went ahead and sending it to a reputable bmw shop, hopefully they can figuate it out. I've looked over this car for like a week, I'll update this thread with the outcome.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    49
    Rep Points
    43.1
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    No I have never figured this issue out. I just bypassed the start button. I still use the start button to switch the ignition on then i have a little button that is rigged that turns the engine over and starts it. Its a wire going from positive battery terminal to the button and another one going from the starter to the button. This lets me start the car. I'm assuming there's obviously a short somewhere, I can't find it though. Cant be my starter if I can turn my car on with my own little button. CAS has latest firmware as well.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Valley Stream NY
    Posts
    3,366
    Rep Points
    2,877.6
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    29


    Yes Reputation No
    Someone mentioned above but did you take down the fusebox behind the glovebox entirely and look at the main battery cable coming into it? They are known to corrode and cause all sorts of problems.

    I had weird starts/cranks on an 07 335 once and turned out the whole JBE (front fusebox) was junk. We got a salvage one and spent a day repinning the entire thing into the car along with fixing the first 6 inches of the main battery cable that had turned green. Ran great after that.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •