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    No Start No Turn over. VIDEO






    Sorry if this is in the wrong spot.

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    If the key is faulty you would not be able to start it at all, because that blocks the ignition.
    It sounds to me like there is something physically wrong with your startermotor.
    It gets the start command, starts to turn, but then immediately stops again.
    So even there it shows nothing wrong with your key. If the key was the problem the startermotor would never be activated.
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DavidV Click here to enlarge
    If the key is faulty you would not be able to start it at all, because that blocks the ignition.
    It sounds to me like there is something physically wrong with your startermotor.
    It gets the start command, starts to turn, but then immediately stops again.
    So even there it shows nothing wrong with your key. If the key was the problem the startermotor would never be activated.

    Yea I would think it would be the starter as well it sounds stuck, but I've changed it twice and it tested good. What if the flywheel was somehow stuck but tow starting actually puts enough pressure on the flywheel to turn it to make it rotate?

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    Could be a crank rotary sensor malfunctioning that makes the starter stop it's action, but that should give more problems than just not start the car...
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

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    So you replaced the neutral safety switch? (you said clutch sensor) are you sure its being triggered when you push down the clutch? have you ever tried pushing the clutch down then trying to start then letting up again kinda like pumping the clutch down over and over while pushing start? Iv'e never had this problem on my bmw so im not sure if it works the same way but my work truck has a finicky neutral safety switch and i have to do that sometimes.

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    Are you getting any trouble codes, and do you have a piggyback tuner hooked up.

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    With the intake off like when you do a valve cleaning can you jump the solenoid to the battery cable and does that allow the engine to turn over normally (it's how I spin the engine to close valves with a screw driver)? Be sure to disable fuel or unplug coils before doing that test (and neutral). If it doesn't spin freely I'd test for a voltage drop on the battery side, maybe there's an issue on the positive cable. While there you can also (with two people) test the solenoid and if it stays energized by the switch or just energizes for a second and stops, maybe that will give you some direction.
    Last edited by V8Bait; 06-24-2014 at 08:46 PM. Reason: clarification

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Update @LncGmz?
    Well, I still haven't got it fixed properly. Sad to say it's rigged up until I can make time to go to Dallas to have a indy shop check it out. I have been driving it and what we did was bypass the start button. We wired up a wire from the excite wire on the starter and then from the positive battery terminal and made my own push start button for now. I hate that It's like this, but no one in my area is capable of fixing it. It starts like normal how I have it rigged up. The nice thing about it is i push the regular push start button twice to turn on ingnition and then without having to press clutch in i press my rigged up button. No foot on the clutch lol. Anyway, I also finally got a Bavarian Technic cable and ran diagnostics on it and my CAS module does have an error on it, A0C1. I wish I knew how to code and use winkfp on INPA to try to update the CAS or to program a new one myself. I'm pretty sure that's all it is. I've checked everywhere for a lose wire from front to back. If anyone can remotely do this for me I do have all those coding programs installed, but I don't know how to configure them. I'm willing to pay someone to remotely do it for me. Email me at LncGmz@gmail.com if you know someone who is willing to do this remotely for me. Also when testing the wire from the starter that runs to the CAS module when engagng the start button it's only putting out .4 volts. So as far as I know theres a short somewhere in there or the CAS module itself. If I'm not mistaken the wire from the starter goes to the CAS module then theres wires that go from the CAS module to the start button. So yea this still isn't fixed anyone still want to help? Sorry for the late reply. I wish I got emails when someone comments on here. I don't get on enough. Sorry theres probably typos and I'm all over the place.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LncGmz Click here to enlarge
    Well, I still haven't got it fixed properly. Sad to say it's rigged up until I can make time to go to Dallas to have a indy shop check it out. I have been driving it and what we did was bypass the start button. We wired up a wire from the excite wire on the starter and then from the positive battery terminal and made my own push start button for now. I hate that It's like this, but no one in my area is capable of fixing it. It starts like normal how I have it rigged up. The nice thing about it is i push the regular push start button twice to turn on ingnition and then without having to press clutch in i press my rigged up button. No foot on the clutch lol. Anyway, I also finally got a Bavarian Technic cable and ran diagnostics on it and my CAS module does have an error on it, A0C1. I wish I knew how to code and use winkfp on INPA to try to update the CAS or to program a new one myself. I'm pretty sure that's all it is. I've checked everywhere for a lose wire from front to back. If anyone can remotely do this for me I do have all those coding programs installed, but I don't know how to configure them. I'm willing to pay someone to remotely do it for me. Email me at LncGmz@gmail.com if you know someone who is willing to do this remotely for me. Also when testing the wire from the starter that runs to the CAS module when engagng the start button it's only putting out .4 volts. So as far as I know theres a short somewhere in there or the CAS module itself. If I'm not mistaken the wire from the starter goes to the CAS module then theres wires that go from the CAS module to the start button. So yea this still isn't fixed anyone still want to help? Sorry for the late reply. I wish I got emails when someone comments on here. I don't get on enough. Sorry theres probably typos and I'm all over the place.
    Man I have no idea but here's a bump in hoping someone can help you.

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    OK so I'm bored at work and I've had a search around. Basically the A0C1 error code relates to low voltage problem which is cutting the starter motor out:

    http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...offered-4.html

    http://www.micro-tronik.com/learning...ain-functions/

    I would look at the connector to the battery, the main battery lead which terminates by the fusebox under the glove compartment and the positive and grounding cables in the engine bay.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by idnan Click here to enlarge
    OK so I'm bored at work and I've had a search around. Basically the A0C1 error code relates to low voltage problem which is cutting the starter motor out:

    http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...offered-4.html

    http://www.micro-tronik.com/learning...ain-functions/

    I would look at the connector to the battery, the main battery lead which terminates by the fusebox under the glove compartment and the positive and grounding cables in the engine bay.

    Thank you and will do. I'll post back tmw when I get a chance.

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    Well I had a look at the fuses. I had already done this before but thought I'd check again because I actually found the diagram in my house ha. So I checked four fuses that have to do with the start stop button. They were number 4,51, 21, 27. It had it listed in that order for some reason. All fuses were okay except for number 27 was actually missing. It needed a 5 amp. So I put one in there. It didn't make a difference, same symptoms.

    Also I found another post where another guy had similar symptoms to mine. It ended up being a fuse in the DME box. I'll have to take a look at that when I get a chance. Can someone provide me a diagram to where the blue wire on the starter leads? I'm pretty sure it goes from starter to CAS module but can someone tell me if it breaks off from the CAS module into the DME and maybe a fuse in there that shorts the connection? I would greatly appreciate that.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LncGmz Click here to enlarge
    but can someone tell me if it breaks off from the CAS module into the DME and maybe a fuse in there that shorts the connection?
    Anyone know?

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    I guess not lol.

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    I still think it's a voltage issue due to poor connection. In the vid the interior light dims as you turn it over. I'm pretty sure I've never seen the lights dim on mine that much when starting even with the 4 year old battery that I recently replaced.
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    Its not your key. I would look into a flywheel problem or starter is not installed correctly.

    You could also check you positive cable where it connects by the jump point and make sure there is a good connection.

    If you starter is making noise, and it sounds like it is your not going to have an cas/ews/key problem If you engine cranked and no start then possibly. Since you can tow start it the dme is seeing the signal from the key to release fuel to the injectors.

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