Close

Results 1 to 20 of 20

Thread: GOING INSANE!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Rep Points
    107.4
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No

    GOING INSANE!

    I posted a thread in the fall about my waste gates sticking wide open while driving. Since then I replaced all vacuum lines and had the turbos/waste gates replaced under warranty (while car was FBO may I add Click here to enlarge) BUTTTT the problem has yet to be solved.

    Typically when cruising on the highway around 3000 rpm, slight load on the car and boosting about 3psi my waste gates will just open up 100%. The exhaust note of the car gets very loud and unless I give it a great amount of throttle the car will stay in this state. I attached a link for datazap. I managed to log the car when this happened. The car does it with JB4 which I had previously, stock and Cobb so the tune is not to blame but I feel the DME is telling them to open.

    I'm just learning to read these logs so what I'm saying may sound crazy. Load requested and load target are spot on. Up until the waste gates open the boost requested is actually zero but my car is making 2-3. When you watch the WGDC the DME is telling my waste gates to open. I'm lost on why it would do this.

    http://datazap.me/u/jsnyder22/wasteg...7-8-9-12-13-22

    I could really use some guidance.


    Currently I'm getting e-tuned by jake from ptf. He's doing a great job but I don't want to keep bugging him about my waste gates. I paid him to tune a working car not a broken one.

    Quick explanation about my car-

    2008 135i n54 IJEOS
    Catless dp, berk mids, axelback, Cpe charge pipe w/tial bov, dci, cobb ap and ETS fmic.

    Full throttle the car runs great. Logs look good and never any codes thrown.
    I replaced the spark plugs, cleaned intake valves, replaced wg solenoids, vacuum lines, turbos and waste gates.


    ANY HELP WOULD BE AWSOME. I want to continue tuning with Jake ASAP but the waste gates opening are making me crazy.

    Thank You

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    south florida
    Posts
    1,986
    Rep Points
    2,386.1
    Mentioned
    96 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    24


    Yes Reputation No
    repped
    - Proven Power Tampa built 6466 ST -
    - N54 6AT WR 711whp 637wtq-
    -N54 WR 1/4mile trap: 133.57mph- -

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    151
    Rep Points
    315.2
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    4


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Have you reset your adaptations with one of those INPA cables? I had a similar issues and when I reset everything I was able to get my waste gates to act right.
    07 335i FFTEC 600 Click here to enlarge

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    546
    Rep Points
    655.2
    Mentioned
    16 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    7


    Yes Reputation No
    Is it actually not acheiving the requested boost in the area between the 3psi and full boost? If it is, then I wouldn't see that as a problem. An open wastegate when you are not requesting boost reduces back pressure which is why the N54 uses a vacuum controlled wastegate instead of a spring preloaded boost-controlled one like most.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    289
    Rep Points
    679.6
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    7


    Yes Reputation No
    I actually had a similar problem with our Mini Cooper, it was an inconsistent thing and at first I thought that it was the electric bypass valve sticking but it wasn't. Sometimes it would go away if I waited a few mins, also it was under light load. Full throttle was fine. sometimes it would take turning the car off and restarting a couple times, and sometimes if I mashed the throttle a few times it would fix itself. All I know was I never solved it, even replacing the turbo and the DME. The car got crazy loud and I always told the girlfriend that when the car got louder to expect it to be slow. Eventually we traded it in mainly because of this

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Rep Points
    107.4
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2



    Yes Reputation No
    I haven't reset the adaptions via INPA cable. I'll look for a cable. Thank you

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Rep Points
    107.4
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by manbeer Click here to enlarge
    I actually had a similar problem with our Mini Cooper, it was an inconsistent thing and at first I thought that it was the electric bypass valve sticking but it wasn't. Sometimes it would go away if I waited a few mins, also it was under light load. Full throttle was fine. sometimes it would take turning the car off and restarting a couple times, and sometimes if I mashed the throttle a few times it would fix itself. All I know was I never solved it, even replacing the turbo and the DME. The car got crazy loud and I always told the girlfriend that when the car got louder to expect it to be slow. Eventually we traded it in mainly because of this
    I'm almost at the point of selling the car...I hope not though

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Rep Points
    107.4
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by wtfmarine Click here to enlarge
    Have you reset your adaptations with one of those INPA cables? I had a similar issues and when I reset everything I was able to get my waste gates to act right.
    Could you steer me in a direction on how to use inpa and where to get a cable? Thank you.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    289
    Rep Points
    679.6
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    7


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Burtonrider22 Click here to enlarge
    I'm almost at the point of selling the car...I hope not though

    I still think it has to be something completely ridiculously easy that I just missed like a sensor or something telling the DME to force them open. I know that I would throw a 30fe code sometimes too. This may give you a few more
    things to look into.
    http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=609160&page=2
    Don't give up. I miss that car and still regret not figuring it out. I remember when it wouldn't start in cold weather unless I used starting ether and it was a bad coolant temp sensor telling the car it was 160 degrees cold starting in the dead of winter. I know you will figure it out

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    289
    Rep Points
    679.6
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    7


    Yes Reputation No

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    151
    Rep Points
    315.2
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    4


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Burtonrider22 Click here to enlarge
    Could you steer me in a direction on how to use inpa and where to get a cable? Thank you.
    Sorry I had friend that had one do it for me. I know there is software that goes along with it. If you do a search on this site or n54tech should get you the info you need.
    07 335i FFTEC 600 Click here to enlarge

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Rep Points
    107.4
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by wtfmarine Click here to enlarge
    Sorry I had friend that had one do it for me. I know there is software that goes along with it. If you do a search on this site or n54tech should get you the info you need.
    No problem. I appreciate the input!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Rep Points
    107.4
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by manbeer Click here to enlarge
    I still think it has to be something completely ridiculously easy that I just missed like a sensor or something telling the DME to force them open. I know that I would throw a 30fe code sometimes too. This may give you a few more
    things to look into.
    http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=609160&page=2
    Don't give up. I miss that car and still regret not figuring it out. I remember when it wouldn't start in cold weather unless I used starting ether and it was a bad coolant temp sensor telling the car it was 160 degrees cold starting in the dead of winter. I know you will figure it out

    I haven't given up yet but I'm getting there. Thanks for the links but the only thing that is different is I've never had a under or over boost code. It's like the dme is happy with everything and telling them to open. One thing I forgot is that I left my dp fix on for inspection. I doubt that's the culprit but I will take it off today.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    289
    Rep Points
    679.6
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    7


    Yes Reputation No
    2 Things-
    #1- The INPA cable and ediabas stuff can be a bit confusing unless you are a bit computer savvy. I know that it confuses me anyway- a more expensive but user friendly alternative would be a bavarian technic cable. for 179 you can get a 1 vin version and it will handle all the adaptation resets and read shadow codes as well
    #2- unlike a lot of other cars our wastegates are open by default so if ANYTHING tells the dme that there is an issue then releasing vacuum is sort of failsafe/limp mode. As a couple people have said, i think even one guy in the thread i posted, even low fuel pressure can sometimes trigger the waste gates to hold open. Somewhere along the line, something is giving the dme a value it doesn't like and that is the result

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    331
    Rep Points
    0.1
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Have you tried replacing the vacuum canisters, or at least testing the vacuum at them? Could be faulty. I know others have had an issue with them, but don't recall their exact symptoms.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Rep Points
    107.4
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by manbeer Click here to enlarge
    2 Things-
    #1- The INPA cable and ediabas stuff can be a bit confusing unless you are a bit computer savvy. I know that it confuses me anyway- a more expensive but user friendly alternative would be a bavarian technic cable. for 179 you can get a 1 vin version and it will handle all the adaptation resets and read shadow codes as well
    #2- unlike a lot of other cars our wastegates are open by default so if ANYTHING tells the dme that there is an issue then releasing vacuum is sort of failsafe/limp mode. As a couple people have said, i think even one guy in the thread i posted, even low fuel pressure can sometimes trigger the waste gates to hold open. Somewhere along the line, something is giving the dme a value it doesn't like and that is the result
    I will look into all of this. thank you!

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Rep Points
    107.4
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mycoupe Click here to enlarge
    Have you tried replacing the vacuum canisters, or at least testing the vacuum at them? Could be faulty. I know others have had an issue with them, but don't recall their exact symptoms.
    Never tested the vacuum or replaced the canisters. I just always thought if I had a vacuum leak I wouldn't be able to achieve boost targets. Maybe stupid of me to overlook.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    255
    Rep Points
    330.4
    Mentioned
    11 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    4


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Burtonrider22 Click here to enlarge
    Never tested the vacuum or replaced the canisters. I just always thought if I had a vacuum leak I wouldn't be able to achieve boost targets. Maybe stupid of me to overlook.
    Also consider the pressure converter solenoids as well......these control the amount of vacuum being supplied to the wastegate actuator and they have been known to become schizoid.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Rep Points
    107.4
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DCAFS Click here to enlarge
    Also consider the pressure converter solenoids as well......these control the amount of vacuum being supplied to the wastegate actuator and they have been known to become schizoid.
    I replaced both less than 5000 miles ago. Thank you though.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    61
    Rep Points
    107.4
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bradsm87 Click here to enlarge
    Is it actually not acheiving the requested boost in the area between the 3psi and full boost? If it is, then I wouldn't see that as a problem. An open wastegate when you are not requesting boost reduces back pressure which is why the N54 uses a vacuum controlled wastegate instead of a spring preloaded boost-controlled one like most.
    3psi - full boost it achieves the targeted boost. When you look at the log I posted what doesn't make sense to me is why wouldn't it be targeting boost when I'm making 2-3psi? I'm under load and light throttle input. You would think the wastegates would want to close to build boost, not open so I loose it and all power.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •