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  1. #1
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    PhotoLog: Long Rod N54 Assembly

    @Terry@BMS

    Just some photos of what we've got going on here at the shop. Long Rod N54 Build

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    Would you mind saying what the advantage here is or the reasoning behind the rods?

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    is the oem rods and crank forged?

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    Improved Rod to Stroke Ratio @Sticky
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Anthony@FFTEC Click here to enlarge
    Improved Rod to Stroke Ratio @Sticky
    What's the size difference on the rods, and R/S ratio for each? Can't really tell from the pics but it doesn't look like much.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by brusk Click here to enlarge
    What's the size difference on the rods, and R/S ratio for each? Can't really tell from the pics but it doesn't look like much.
    that was my thought

    Mm or 2 longer at most?.. resulting ratio with long rods?

    Will there be any real world noticeable differences with this setup over oem? Ability to rev higher potentially?
    boop

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    There's a bigger difference there than 2mm. I'd say at least .250" and that can make a difference. I wonder how much compression height the piston lost.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rader1 Click here to enlarge
    There's a bigger difference there than 2mm. I'd say at least .250" and that can make a difference. I wonder how much compression height the piston lost.
    Hmm yeah hard to tell with just pics lol, .25" is more like 6-7mm then


    long rod changes a lot of things like dwell and stuff no?
    boop

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    Can't wait to test em out. Click here to enlarge
    Burger Motorsports
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please see http://www.burgertuning.com/emissions_info.html for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    These rods are made to our specifications and over two mm longer than OEM. The pistons are also custom made to match these rods (must be purchased in as a set) with raised pins positions in order to keep OE compression height.

    Should yield improved TQ, and RPM range.
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    I suggested this a while back. Is there any reason you chose 2.xmm and not something larger? Any ETA? Interesting project. Anticipated new redline?
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    Are the rods based off rods to suit a different engine? I did this on my Nissan SR20. Was able to use Manley rods to suit Honda H22 with the big end width machined down a couple of mm and custom Mahle pistons. The engine sounds noticably less thrashy at high RPM.

    Looks like the rod can easily go even longer but I understand that getting a cost effective rod at an exact specified length is easier said than done!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by brusk Click here to enlarge
    What's the size difference on the rods, and R/S ratio for each? Can't really tell from the pics but it doesn't look like much.
    Stock ratio is only 1.506.

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    Wow that's a very crappy factory r/s ratio. With good strong pistons, pins and rods, the pins could safely be downsized to 21mm and pin height reduced to around 25mm. That'd allow for a considerably longer rod if somebody can order enough units to make a fully custom rod financially viable.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Anthony@FFTEC Click here to enlarge
    These rods are made to our specifications and over two mm longer than OEM. The pistons are also custom made to match these rods (must be purchased in as a set) with raised pins positions in order to keep OE compression height.

    Should yield improved TQ, and RPM range.
    Are these lighter?

  16. #16
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Anthony@FFTEC Click here to enlarge
    These rods are made to our specifications and over two mm longer than OEM. The pistons are also custom made to match these rods (must be purchased in as a set) with raised pins positions in order to keep OE compression height.

    Should yield improved TQ, and RPM range.
    do you have prospective price?

    Cp pistons aren't normally particularly cheap :p

    isn't the s54 1.54 r/s? Thats not much Better lol. 2.xx mm can't change the ratio THAT much either? :/
    boop

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    Oh $#@!. Things are getting real for sure!!!! Long rod motor with built VAC head! Over 8k rpms maybe???? Nice!!!!!!
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    we could really use the extra rpm! Big singles could really use an additional 1000+ rpm!
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    Oh $#@!. Things are getting real for sure!!!! Long rod motor with built VAC head! Over 8k rpms maybe???? Nice!!!!!!
    That's going to put a ton of stress on the associated parts. That said, these rods should be way better than OEM.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    That's going to put a ton of stress on the associated parts. That said, these rods should be way better than OEM.
    I don't think anyone even knows just when the OEM rods would break? (more revs would have to accelerate it though lol)

    they're forged aren't they, too?
    boop

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    I don't think anyone even knows just when the OEM rods would break? (more revs would have to accelerate it though lol)

    they're forged aren't they, too?
    I don't know about the N54 rods. Really I've seen stuff all over the place regarding the internals but even if the rods are forged the stroke isn't too rev friendly on the associated internals.

    But aftermarket rods are stronger so who knows. Somebody has to try it.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    I don't think anyone even knows just when the OEM rods would break? (more revs would have to accelerate it though lol)

    they're forged aren't they, too?
    I believe rods and crank are forged.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    I don't know about the N54 rods. Really I've seen stuff all over the place regarding the internals but even if the rods are forged the stroke isn't too rev friendly on the associated internals.

    But aftermarket rods are stronger so who knows. Somebody has to try it.
    well balanced, R:S shouldn't stop 8k.. tons of motors worse than 1.5x turn 8k+ reliably enough.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    I believe rods and crank are forged.
    yeah that's what i've been led to believe

    i don't remember seeing a casting seam on my rods.
    boop

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    Stock N54 rods and crank are forged and the pistons are cast. Having a very beefy bottom end won't save your engine from a $#@!ty tune or a sudden lean out, so keep that in mind.

    Even with a bad ass rotating assembly and a killer valve train there eventually will be fueling window limitation that will cap RPMs if using a purely DI setup. Whether it's a realistic RPM range to worry about it or not....
    Click here to enlarge
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rader1 Click here to enlarge
    Stock N54 rods and crank are forged and the pistons are cast. Having a very beefy bottom end won't save your engine from a $#@!ty tune or a sudden lean out, so keep that in mind.

    Even with a bad ass rotating assembly and a killer valve train there eventually will be fueling window limitation that will cap RPMs if using a purely DI setup. Whether it's a realistic RPM range to worry about it or not....
    there was a change in a MY that went to a crank that was not forged ... two diff bolt patterns too
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