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  1. #1
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    Single turbo tuning help...

    Hey guys,

    So...the good news...car is up and running! Actually picked it up Tuesday, but ended up finding out later that night the spring put in was a bit too stiff, honest mistake, too stiff of a spring installed. Went back today and put a 1 bar spring combo in. So wastegate spring should be ~13psi.

    I have somewhere around an e35 fuel mixture. Running a 255 inline pump. Turbo is a Forced Performance HTA3586r (62.5mm single scroll)

    I did a map4 pull and here are the results. NO codes were thrown but something is definitely off...

    http://datazap.me/u/mjmarovi/map4-13...g=0&data=1-3-4

    Then....decided car was at least good to drive home (shop is ~1 hour away) so hit the highway. It was really strange, I heard almost an odd noise, hard to describe, but kinda like a low hummm. Service engine light came on, brake light came on, and by the time I started pulling over it was as if the fuel cut out and then the engine completely shut off. All lights, navigation screen, etc. were on as normal. Took a picture of all the codes, check under the hood for anything disconnected, melted, etc. All was good so cleared the codes. Car started up just fine and drove home about another 20 miles or so home no issues. Here's the codes...thoughts?

    Also, what all maps is METH suppose to flow with single turbo firmware? I take it map4 is NOT one of them?

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    OK...now I know something is up. I have thrown codes a lot since overboosting and trying to figure that out. Got it narrowed down to the WG spring, changed that, then no codes. Then during normal cruising the above happened...now this...was again literally just driving normal not even during mild accel, just cruising, only at like 40mph this time and these codes were thrown...cleared them and the rest of the drive home was fine...

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  3. #3
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    ill be off work in a lil bit. ill call you
    - Proven Power Tampa built 6466 ST -
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  4. #4
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ak335i Click here to enlarge
    ill be off work in a lil bit. ill call you
    Sounds good, I'll be up for at least another hour and a half
    2009 335i coupe back to stock...for now

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  5. #5
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    Something is definitely off, your afr is reporting as 20:1 in that log.

    I cant see whatever you uploaded for the codes. Can you post them again?
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    Something is definitely off, your afr is reporting as 20:1 in that log.

    I cant see whatever you uploaded for the codes. Can you post them again?
    I know it's odd...I think I'll try resetting adaptions tomorrow first thing.

    Here's the pics of the codes again.

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  7. #7
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    @mjmarovi

    same my problem, to solve it switch the front o2 sensor, that's it

    it's rough idle right?

    look at my old log, before fixing it...same ur log

    Click here to enlarge
    Last edited by 135idct; 05-22-2014 at 11:20 PM.

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    Click here to enlarge
    2009 335i coupe back to stock...for now

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135idct Click here to enlarge
    @mjmarovi

    same my problem, to solve it switch the front o2 sensor, that's it

    it's rough idle right?

    look at my old log, before fixing it...same ur log

    Click here to enlarge
    Not, idle is pretty smooth, and normal driving is smooth too. It's like it just can't bleed off boost or someting
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    lol these logs are terrible. I wouldn't be driving that car if I was you.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by aflatau Click here to enlarge
    lol these logs are terrible. I wouldn't be driving that car if I was you.
    old log, solved the problems

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mjmarovi Click here to enlarge
    Not, idle is pretty smooth, and normal driving is smooth too. It's like it just can't bleed off boost or someting
    same AFR..

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    Crazy throttle closures since you appear to be overshooting target. Maybe something with the WG springs and/or reference and/or vac solenoid? AFRs are pegged 20 and trims flatline, also flatline timing post shift. I'd message Terry and see what the heck is going on.

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    You guys need to be really careful with new setups. It's easy to blow a motor on your first runs if you stay in it when something is wrong. Map 4 runs the WG spring. If you are on map 4 and making > 14psi you need to let off right away and figure out what is plumbed wrong. It seems 9/10 shops can't follow a simple solenoid and wasteagate line diagram.
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    Terry- Doesn’t Map4 flatline AFR and trims when/if boost gets out of whack? That would explain why AFRs are literally pegged there.

    Something on the hardware side of boost control is way out of whack. Really doubt this is a “tuning” issue per se.
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  16. #16
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135pats Click here to enlarge
    Terry- Doesn’t Map4 flatline AFR and trims when/if boost gets out of whack? That would explain why AFRs are literally pegged there.

    Something on the hardware side of boost control is way out of whack. Really doubt this is a “tuning” issue per se.
    The bottom line is you need boost control to work first. If boost is not on target or in the ballpark then something is wrong. If the JB4 can't rely on map 4 (zero PWM) to run the WG spring then it's only other option to reduce boost in the event of a safety is to close the throttle. Which it's doing in the above log to prevent this motor from blowing.

    Once boost is working he can address his numerous other tuning issues. AFR being pegged at 20:1 indicates an o2 sensor fault, misfire, or some other serious issue that needs to be addressed.
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please see http://www.burgertuning.com/emissions_info.html for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  17. #17
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    You guys need to be really careful with new setups. It's easy to blow a motor on your first runs if you stay in it when something is wrong. Map 4 runs the WG spring. If you are on map 4 and making > 14psi you need to let off right away and figure out what is plumbed wrong. It seems 9/10 shops can't follow a simple solenoid and wasteagate line diagram.
    +1 everyone dumps all this money into these set-ups and the shop just releases it like this? If we install 15K turbo kit, were going to do a LOT of testing and make sure its running right, boosting right, and safe before we allow the customer to pick it up. I am also very shocked at the inability to route boost and vacuum lines, our N55 kit has literally 3 connections, so far 4 shops have managed to get them messed up...Click here to enlarge I would stop driving the car right away and figure out what is hooked up wrong.

  18. #18
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    +1 everyone dumps all this money into these set-ups and the shop just releases it like this? If we install 15K turbo kit, were going to do a LOT of testing and make sure its running right, boosting right, and safe before we allow the customer to pick it up. I am also very shocked at the inability to route boost and vacuum lines, our N55 kit has literally 3 connections, so far 4 shops have managed to get them messed up...Click here to enlarge I would stop driving the car right away and figure out what is hooked up wrong.

    talked to matt last night.

    told him to bypass the mac. run just wastegate on map 6 with a stock flash and check boost. that will rule a lot out.
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    He needs to leave the ST flash in place as it has timing values and AFR targets that are safe for larger turbos. Map 4 is basically a complete JB4 bypass on the ST firmware. It allows up to 15psi before closing the throttle.

    The first step is always to run map 4 and ensure you are running off your 12psi WG spring. If you are not then something is physically wrong and you need to dig in deeper. Bypass MAC solenoid vacuum lines, check WG ports, etc.
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  20. #20
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    i just think its trying to do to much right off the bat. My personal opinion is all.

    when i picked my car up from Proven power over a year ago i was just running a vac line from the compressor to the wastegate. I was on Map 6 no flash and set all boost to 16psi (1 bar spring) to check it out. on 93octane.

    car drove perfect at 15-16psi no issues.

    then i flashed it and have moved along since.

    I just think its better to start simple with the basics for the first drive to rule out a lot.




    like i said just my personal opinion
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ak335i Click here to enlarge
    talked to matt last night.

    told him to bypass the mac. run just wastegate on map 6 with a stock flash and check boost. that will rule a lot out.
    Doesn't change the fact the shop spent 3-4 months to build him this turbo kit, and then just said ok its done, without making sure everything was working right? That just aint right, I am not saying they had to tune the car, but at least be armed with enough knowledge to test the car as Terry is suggesting to make sure its not going to overboost etc, pretty basic stuff.

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    I'm being as careful as possible, believe me. Shop owner rode with me when I picked it up but he has no experience with tuning these cars and I wasn't relying him. I was however relying on them to have the right spring in, and vac lines hooked up properly. spring was a mistake, and the guy that made the mistake got chewed out for it, not by me, but by the owner. These guys absolutely warranty their work and are not about to leave me high and dry, so no reason for anyone to think that.

    I'm going to put boost target on fuel and afr on oil and double check the vac lines on the wastegate myself right now. I'm honestly thinking the top and bottom port connections on the WG are backwards, about to find out...
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  23. #23
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    He needs to leave the ST flash in place as it has timing values and AFR targets that are safe for larger turbos. Map 4 is basically a complete JB4 bypass on the ST firmware. It allows up to 15psi before closing the throttle.
    looking at his log then it would seem his wastegate wants to run at 17ish psi which is too high for map 4.

    maybe then he should just leave it all alone and go to whatever map is 17psi or map 6 at 17psi and re log
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mjmarovi Click here to enlarge
    I'm honestly thinking the top and bottom port connections on the WG are backwards, about to find out...
    i have been thinkin about that as well since i talked to you.
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    FWIW my 1bar spring runs at 16/17psi
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