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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by AlexQuattro Click here to enlarge
    It's kinda hard to see.....

    Agreed..sorry, I tried to blow it up a bit without distorting it...I was marginally successful at best. Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ethanol.tester Click here to enlarge
    Agreed..sorry, I tried to blow it up a bit without distorting it...I was marginally successful at best. Click here to enlarge
    I should have noted earlier, I'll pull a log showing idle behavior, but i've observed and it sits at high 80s PSI. Doesn't really budge, holds it very steady there in an idle situation. FWIW.
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    That's a bit high...but every car is different. Typically on startup the DME will go 100% PWM for just a second and then scale it back. So initially you'll see around 80psi (probably what the stock regulator is), but if the DME has control, it will then scale it back to the low 70's from what I've seen.

    Here is an example. This is a cold startup on E80. The total length of the log is 60 seconds. As I said, my regulator is set to 83psi, so the DME is controlling the flows...not the regulator. You can see where it very briefly goes to 83 psi and then seems to almost do a self calibration before stabalizing.

    Click here to enlarge

  4. #29
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    I don't know if this has been suggested but you might want to check the fuel lines, if it kinks anywhere you can blow a fuse. The walboro pumps sometimes are faulty brand new too, maybe the one you have is just tight and draws too much current, wouldn't be the first time. I'm assuming the wiring is all good, especially the ground.

    Otherwise I'd definitely up the fuse. 15a is hardly enough for a lone 255 so I doubt 20a is enough for a 455 and stock in all situations... on custom twin pump setups I used to use two 30a fuses, one per pump, they'd do well but wiring was larger.

  5. #30
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ethanol.tester Click here to enlarge
    That's a bit high...but every car is different. Typically on startup the DME will go 100% PWM for just a second and then scale it back. So initially you'll see around 80psi (probably what the stock regulator is), but if the DME has control, it will then scale it back to the low 70's from what I've seen.

    Here is an example. This is a cold startup on E80. The total length of the log is 60 seconds. As I said, my regulator is set to 83psi, so the DME is controlling the flows...not the regulator. You can see where it very briefly goes to 83 psi and then seems to almost do a self calibration before stabalizing.
    When I get the car back I’ll be sure to pull a log on the first cold start. My guess is the dealer will reset adaptations again though, so not sure how that will influence things/not sure if that will provide a good sample. But will log that, and post up. I agree high 80s at idle seems high to me, that’s the part I really don’t understand.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
    I don't know if this has been suggested but you might want to check the fuel lines, if it kinks anywhere you can blow a fuse. The walboro pumps sometimes are faulty brand new too, maybe the one you have is just tight and draws too much current, wouldn't be the first time. I'm assuming the wiring is all good, especially the ground.

    Otherwise I'd definitely up the fuse. 15a is hardly enough for a lone 255 so I doubt 20a is enough for a 455 and stock in all situations... on custom twin pump setups I used to use two 30a fuses, one per pump, they'd do well but wiring was larger.
    I’m having the lines and wiring re-checked, but it should be OK. If a line were kinked, wouldn’t pressure at the rail suffer? I’ve never had any sort of fuel delivery problem in terms of lean outs or stuttering, if anything too much pressure is being provided.

    Do you think 25 amps is enough? I’d be much more hesitant to go up to 30 amps, but if my car leaves me stranded for a 3rd time in under 1K miles, I’ll be furious.
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  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135pats Click here to enlarge
    When I get the car back I’ll be sure to pull a log on the first cold start. My guess is the dealer will reset adaptations again though, so not sure how that will influence things/not sure if that will provide a good sample. But will log that, and post up. I agree high 80s at idle seems high to me, that’s the part I really don’t understand.


    I’m having the lines and wiring re-checked, but it should be OK. If a line were kinked, wouldn’t pressure at the rail suffer? I’ve never had any sort of fuel delivery problem in terms of lean outs or stuttering, if anything too much pressure is being provided.

    Do you think 25 amps is enough? I’d be much more hesitant to go up to 30 amps, but if my car leaves me stranded for a 3rd time in under 1K miles, I’ll be furious.
    Just a suggestion, but you may want to buy some spare fuses Click here to enlarge
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  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    Just a suggestion, but you may want to buy some spare fuses Click here to enlarge
    Yes. Though it’s pathetic that I need to drive around with spare fuses…but yes. Lol.
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  8. #33
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Just a thought but try swapping out your fuel pressure regulator. Part is fairly cheap, I believe under $100.
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    1. 25 amp fuse
    2. Fuel scaler to 1.4 ish
    3. New fuel pressure regulator
    3. Confirm all wiring connections done with correct guage
    3. Reset adaptations and re flash.


    I believe thats turning over every rock and should resolve it Pats.
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  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R.G. Click here to enlarge
    1. 25 amp fuse
    2. Fuel scaler to 1.4 ish
    3. New fuel pressure regulator
    3. Confirm all wiring connections done with correct guage
    3. Reset adaptations and re flash.


    I believe thats turning over every rock and should resolve it Pats.
    I agree for sure, that’s the route I’m taking now. Hadn’t thought about the fuel pressure regulator but that’s a good call- isn’t it in the tank with the fuel bucket? I’ve never actually taken a look at it, looks like the part is $150-200 bucks. If it’s in the fuel tank, shouldn’t be a big deal to replace. I’m going to do all of the above and see how it goes, if it blows the 25amp fuse I’ll replace the regulator and then see where that gets me.
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    The pressure is read at the hpfp inlet iirc, so a partial kink might not be noticeable. The DME will just command higher voltage to the pump, pushing them harder, to overcome whatever kink/restriction you may have. That could blow the fuse.

    25a should be fine, that's what I moved to with my 255 the day I installed it. 30a would probably be fine too, as long as it's not constantly drawing 29 amps lol. You can always have it measured.

  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
    The pressure is read at the hpfp inlet iirc, so a partial kink might not be noticeable. The DME will just command higher voltage to the pump, pushing them harder, to overcome whatever kink/restriction you may have. That could blow the fuse.

    25a should be fine, that's what I moved to with my 255 the day I installed it. 30a would probably be fine too, as long as it's not constantly drawing 29 amps lol. You can always have it measured.
    I hadn’t considered that (DME just calling for more duty cycle, thus overdriving everything) but very good point. Will def open up the tank and see what’s going on back there. I just want to start knocking out potential causes so I can narrow the list. Would be ridiculously frustrating to go to a 25 amp fuse only to have it blow because the problem is not related. Right now I’m thinking it’s just a matter of going up fuse, but after that kinked line or wiring problem is all I can think of. It could be the pressure regulator, but i’ve never heard of such a problem, seems unlikely.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135pats Click here to enlarge
    When I get the car back I’ll be sure to pull a log on the first cold start. My guess is the dealer will reset adaptations again though,
    Do you still have waranty?

  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by AlexQuattro Click here to enlarge
    Do you still have waranty?
    Theoretically yes, but I’m not bringing this in as a warranty claim. I’ll foot the bill for the fuse and whatever, 1 hour of labor it takes to inspect the fuel bucket and fuse box. It’s only at the dealer because it needed to be towed late at night, and that was the easiest place to drop it off. And the tech working on my car is very, very good, so it’s helpful to bounce ideas off him and grab his thoughts.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135pats Click here to enlarge
    Theoretically yes, but I’m not bringing this in as a warranty claim. I’ll foot the bill for the fuse and whatever, 1 hour of labor it takes to inspect the fuel bucket and fuse box. It’s only at the dealer because it needed to be towed late at night, and that was the easiest place to drop it off. And the tech working on my car is very, very good, so it’s helpful to bounce ideas off him and grab his thoughts.
    Makes sense Click here to enlarge

  16. #41
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    Wanted to follow up with you guys...

    Sparknotes: It was a mess

    Long story: A line had a minor kink in it, the bucket tophat cracked (how I have no idea), and we went ahead and soldered in the wiring better than had been before (was just crimped prior). For now we are staying w/ the 20 amp, no reason to replace it when there are other factors that were likely at play. My thought is that the line kink caused the DME to demand too much duty cycle, which in turn over drove the low pressure side, resulting in a blown fuse. Nothing was shorted out, which makes sense as the car would operate for a few hundred miles before blowing it.

    So now I know the lines, pumps, and installation are all 100% squared away, car is currently running fine. If the car blows another fuse, then I’ll probably go up to 25 amps. Got a spare 20 amp in the glove box in case it decides to pop it again.

    Hopefully this resolves this nonsense, and can be instructive for others when they add another pump inline to the existing setup. It’s quite easy to screw it up inadvertently.
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    Cool! Let us know if it blows again.

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    Good deal. Hopefully it's fixed once and for all.
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    Nice! If you want to be extra safe, you could contact steveaz and he has the stock acordian style fuel hose for sale that can literally be bent 180* without kinking. Just a thought.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bmw335iguy Click here to enlarge
    Nice! If you want to be extra safe, you could contact steveaz and he has the stock acordian style fuel hose for sale that can literally be bent 180* without kinking. Just a thought.
    First off- SteveAZ is the man. Ridiculously helpful on any number of things.

    Yea that is a good idea. If these revisions do not fix it, I’m going 100% ham and making sure everything is beyond over-built for this. So that line would certainly be part of the equation should my car take a nap on me again. I sincerely hope that is not the case but who knows.
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  21. #46
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    4 out of 4 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    To clarify a couple things...the pressure regulator is part of the filter assembly on the driver's side of the tank.

    The LPFP sensor is just prior to the HPFP inlet but is a seperate assembly.

    I am SteveAZ...somebody told me to check this thread because they were concerned about the blown fuses. When I registered it asked for an email and it assigned that as my username. Not sure what I did wrong but it wasn't an attempt to use an alias. If Sticky will change my username to SteveAZ......it would be much appreciated.

    ...and thanks for the compliment... Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ethanol.tester Click here to enlarge
    If Sticky will change my username to SteveAZ......it would be much appreciated.
    Just ask here
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    Haha...thanks...I'd thumbs up ya...but I can't Click here to enlarge

    After readimg that thread...I'm scared to ask Click here to enlarge

  24. #49
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ethanol.tester Click here to enlarge
    To clarify a couple things...the pressure regulator is part of the filter assembly on the driver's side of the tank.

    The LPFP sensor is just prior to the HPFP inlet but is a seperate assembly.

    I am SteveAZ...somebody told me to check this thread because they were concerned about the blown fuses. When I registered it asked for an email and it assigned that as my username. Not sure what I did wrong but it wasn't an attempt to use an alias. If Sticky will change my username to SteveAZ......it would be much appreciated.

    ...and thanks for the compliment... Click here to enlarge
    LOL. Welcome bud, good to have you on this forum stick around.

    Yea I don’t think the issue is the regulator, and I already replaced the LPFP sensor on the rail myself last week. At this point I’ve replaced both pumps, checked all lines+connections+wiring, replaced the relevant sensor, and replaced the fuse. If it’s still popping the fuse the only remaining sources I can think of would be

    1. Fuel pressure regulator
    2. Need a 25 amp fuse
    3.
    I think the car should be OK now, but I’ll keep this updated if anything else goes down. What I do want to figure out is how the LPFP bucket hat got cracked. Pump was brand new, under 1K miles on it. Perhaps the inline pump (it has a billet adaptor) smacked into it? Doubtful though….IDK.
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  25. #50
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ethanol.tester Click here to enlarge
    To clarify a couple things...the pressure regulator is part of the filter assembly on the driver's side of the tank.

    The LPFP sensor is just prior to the HPFP inlet but is a seperate assembly.

    I am SteveAZ...somebody told me to check this thread because they were concerned about the blown fuses. When I registered it asked for an email and it assigned that as my username. Not sure what I did wrong but it wasn't an attempt to use an alias. If Sticky will change my username to SteveAZ......it would be much appreciated.

    ...and thanks for the compliment... Click here to enlarge
    Why didn't you make it SteveAZ to begin with?
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