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Thread: Motor went

  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BattaM3 Click here to enlarge
    I remember vac telling me something about a 400rwhp n/a s54. Not sure details or if it happened.
    435 HP @ 7980 RPM and 325 Ft/Lb TQ @ 6,000 RPM (375 RWHP) It wouldn't be very streetable and it has a VANOS delete so you would need a standalone EMS.


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ccsykes Click here to enlarge
    435 HP @ 7980 RPM and 325 Ft/Lb TQ @ 6,000 RPM. It wouldn't be very streetable and it has a VANOS delete so you would need a standalone EMS.
    Yep, pure race, but 375 whp.

    What I don't get is, how do honda guys get such good NA numbers? BMW's should be doing some great stuff NA as well but it seems people just go for boost.

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    347whp on mustang dyno fully streetable with vanos working...

    12,5 :1 compression
    csl intake
    304/296 cams
    some head work...

    it is a possibility but with the same money it would be better getting a stg1/stg2 supercharger kit...

    fully dd as well and with 380-400 "easy" whp....

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by nick///M3 Click here to enlarge
    347whp on mustang dyno fully streetable with vanos working...

    12,5 :1 compression
    csl intake
    304/296 cams
    some head work...

    it is a possibility but with the same money it would be better getting a stg1/stg2 supercharger kit...

    fully dd as well and with 380-400 "easy" whp....
    Are you that greek guy with the aftermarket cams in his M3?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu Click here to enlarge
    We are looking at a stock remanufactured motor from BMW USA. I commute/drive 300 miles a week, and that does not count the weekends when I play.

    My GT2 is pushing 800 rwhp on race gas now with a fat power band. I am hoping for a low 5 second 60-130 when the weather gets cold. I would need a stage 3 HPF car which would be $35K by the time all is said and done, and it would not dead hook from a 40 punch (even in cold weather) the way my rear engine GT2 with 315's does.

    Soooo I am thinking of turning the M3 into my daily driver/commute car. You couldn't ask for a more enjoyable commute car and even close to 350, with a really nice stereo would fill the bill.

    Oh, and yes, the failure was due to tuning. What would OE charge to do a remote tune? Can we data log?
    Sorry to hear about your motor. After everything you have been through with that car, that was really just the icing on the cake. Ugghh..

    Yes, OE tuning can do remote tunes with their flashloader. On my e55 I will datalog WOT runs and email them the files, and they will adjust as necessary. As mentioned above, I would look to them as being your main option for tuning. Best of luck getting it sorted out.

  6. #31
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    Thanks for all the replies everyone. Maybe you can help me make my decision as to which direction to go. Here is my situation: I have 4 cars, GT2, the M3, a C63, and an E350 (the car I gave to my wife which was just hit and was being repaired...the accident was 100% caused by a 3rd party).

    My cars were made possible by the money I made from real estate, but those days are long gone and I am just a little college teacher now and you would laugh if you saw my paycheck, so I need to be very budget minded. I would love to cut a check to HPF for $35K and get a stage 3 but that is out of the question.

    My viable options are;1 to put the remanny motor in, which I could do for just a little over 10K, drop 2K on a stereo...lets add 1k for incidentals, and for 13K I would have an awesome dd.

    The other option would be to spend more to build the motor and put the T trim back on. I would drive the E350 for my commute and buy my wife an Altima. She just pulled a stunt with my credit cards so she somewhat deserves having the Merc taken awayClick here to enlarge

    Since my mechanic works very cheaply for me, option 2 might not be that bad, but option 1 is probably the smartest way to go.

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for all the replies everyone. Maybe you can help me make my decision as to which direction to go. Here is my situation: I have 4 cars, GT2, the M3, a C63, and an E350 (the car I gave to my wife which was just hit and was being repaired...the accident was 100% caused by a 3rd party).

    My cars were made possible by the money I made from real estate, but those days are long gone and I am just a little college teacher now and you would laugh if you saw my paycheck, so I need to be very budget minded. I would love to cut a check to HPF for $35K and get a stage 3 but that is out of the question.

    My viable options are;1 to put the remanny motor in, which I could do for just a little over 10K, drop 2K on a stereo...lets add 1k for incidentals, and for 13K I would have an awesome dd.

    The other option would be to spend more to build the motor and put the T trim back on. I would drive the E350 for my commute and buy my wife an Altima. She just pulled a stunt with my credit cards so she somewhat deserves having the Merc taken awayClick here to enlarge

    Since my mechanic works very cheaply for me, option 2 might not be that bad, but option 1 is probably the smartest way to go.
    If those two are the only options, I would do option one. The e350 is a great car, but daily driving the M3 would be much more enjoyable as an auto enthusiast. I have never understood why people have great cars and don't drive them on a daily basis. I drive my cars year round, sun, snow, rain, ice, etc. That is what makes commutes or trips enjoyable, hopping in a car that you are passionate about. Put some miles on the M3 and enjoy the heck out of it!!

    Also, you could always sell the e350, put your wife in an altima and then go HPF stage 3!Click here to enlarge

  8. #33
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    Thanks....I went to Vacs site and notice that they build engines for SCing that start at 13K.

  9. #34
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    I have been doing the math and an intake, headers, exhaust and tuning should get me to about 320 whp on a stock block S54.

  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu Click here to enlarge
    I have been doing the math and an intake, headers, exhaust and tuning should get me to about 320 whp on a stock block S54.
    I come from a finance/project management background so I'm always crunching numbers. Based on what you have posted here is what numbers I crunched.

    Re-manufactured BMW Engine for $8K, that is a great price. To buy a used S54 block your talking at least $5K and doing a rebuild for $3K would be hard..

    Power adders. Let's do some quick math.. Intake setup can range from $150-$500 or even higher. Headers, decent set start out around $1K. Exhaust, easy $1,500+. Custom tuning.. $1,200+.

    So with those power adders your looking at roughly 320 RWHP. You would need cams and head work to gain anymore, and your talking easy $3K+ more work.

    So to summarize:

    Engine $8K
    Intake $300ish
    Headers $1,000
    Exhaust $1,500
    Tune $1,200

    Total $12K for roughly 320 RWHP or, $37.5 per HP.

    Here is my suggestion..

    $8K for Engine
    $5K for used S/C kit

    $13K for 400-500 RWHP or, $32.50 - $26.00 per HP.

    I honestly wouldn't keep your current S/C setup. It was a one off design so anything you do with it now or ever, will be custom in nature and cost. I would go with a "out of the box" kit from AA, VF or ESS. You will have readily available support and won't have to worry about "finding a tuner". You could probably sell your current S/C setup on Ebay to recoup some cost.

    Bottom line, whatever you decide, the best way to determine any build project is to determine your projected HP per dollar cost.

    I was going to go the custom route too and use my VF kit as the foundation. I built a custom direct port Meth system, was going to switch to a T-Trim running 18-20PSI and build a low compression motor. Once I started adding the costs up I realized I would be money ahead to just simply ditch the whole setup and go turbo.

    If you need any help, you know I'm local. Up until I shipped my car to HPF, I personally built my entire car from the ground up. I have 15+ years of modding experience.

  11. #36
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    Btw..

    Finding a used S/C is as easy as contacting HPF and telling them you are interested in the next customer that comes in making a switch to turbo.

    I just sold my VF Stage II kit with less than 5,000 miles, a custom direct port Labonte Motorsport methanol system, tuned DMEand extras for $6,500.

    I know they have sold kits in the past for $4.5-5K.

    There is an AA kit on Ebay right now and a couple on M3forum.net

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ccsykes Click here to enlarge
    I come from a finance/project management background so I'm always crunching numbers. Based on what you have posted here is what numbers I crunched.

    Re-manufactured BMW Engine for $8K, that is a great price. To buy a used S54 block your talking at least $5K and doing a rebuild for $3K would be hard..

    Power adders. Let's do some quick math.. Intake setup can range from $150-$500 or even higher. Headers, decent set start out around $1K. Exhaust, easy $1,500+. Custom tuning.. $1,200+.

    So with those power adders your looking at roughly 320 RWHP. You would need cams and head work to gain anymore, and your talking easy $3K+ more work.

    So to summarize:

    Engine $8K
    Intake $300ish
    Headers $1,000
    Exhaust $1,500
    Tune $1,200

    Total $12K for roughly 320 RWHP or, $37.5 per HP.

    Here is my suggestion..

    $8K for Engine
    $5K for used S/C kit

    $13K for 400-500 RWHP or, $32.50 - $26.00 per HP.

    I honestly wouldn't keep your current S/C setup. It was a one off design so anything you do with it now or ever, will be custom in nature and cost. I would go with a "out of the box" kit from AA, VF or ESS. You will have readily available support and won't have to worry about "finding a tuner". You could probably sell your current S/C setup on Ebay to recoup some cost.

    Bottom line, whatever you decide, the best way to determine any build project is to determine your projected HP per dollar cost.

    I was going to go the custom route too and use my VF kit as the foundation. I built a custom direct port Meth system, was going to switch to a T-Trim running 18-20PSI and build a low compression motor. Once I started adding the costs up I realized I would be money ahead to just simply ditch the whole setup and go turbo.

    If you need any help, you know I'm local. Up until I shipped my car to HPF, I personally built my entire car from the ground up. I have 15+ years of modding experience.
    Thanks bud, and I will get all the advice I can from you. However you have forgotten one thing: I already have the intake (it cost a lot more than $300) headers, exhaust, TB's etc.

    If I wanted to keep the SC, I would simply keep my T Trim (already have the brackets etc.) and turn the boost down to 6 lbs. Actually, this idea is still on the table although I am leaning towards going NA for a car that will see 12K miles a year. Tuning a SC car is also trickier and much more expensive.

    The SC is so parasitic and will kill my gas mileage.

    And I talked to my mechanic again today and he broke it down and is very competant he can get 350 NA.

  13. #38
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    if you have the stuff for it, it woudlnt be cheaper to get the motor for 8k, and get another tune for 1.5k. and labor maybe 2k. stock internals can stand low boost right? around 450 whp.

    11.5 k you get ur SC back with a remany motor.

    i might be missing something here...
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  14. #39
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    No, you are missing nothing....that is a distinct possibility.

    The only thing is that I will be doing a 70 mile commute 3 times a week, 65 miles of which will be at 72 MPH on cruise control. That is the only part of the equation where the SC doesn't make sense. It will be spinning for no reason.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu Click here to enlarge
    Since my mechanic works very cheaply for me, option 2 might not be that bad, but option 1 is probably the smartest way to go.
    You answered it yourself, option 1.

    Put your SC hardware up for sale as well and get this done for as little money as possible. The motor in stock form is amazing and people often forget that. Keep it affordable and reliable, no point wasting money.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu Click here to enlarge
    No, you are missing nothing....that is a distinct possibility.

    The only thing is that I will be doing a 70 mile commute 3 times a week, 65 miles of which will be at 72 MPH on cruise control. That is the only part of the equation where the SC doesn't make sense. It will be spinning for no reason.
    At cruise, even at 80 MPH your typically pulling from -4 to 0 vacuum. You would get a little parasitic lag from the charger, but I still got a good 25-28 MPG with my VF Stage II kit that put down 500 RWHP. I drove my VF kit all the way to Portland from Houston and it didn't hiccup once.

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    totally understandable. its going to be your DD.

    sell the SC kit for like maybe 3-4k? n all you'd have to spend is like 8k in total and have what you need around 350 whp? maybe
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    totally understandable. its going to be your DD.

    sell the SC kit for like maybe 3-4k? n all you'd have to spend is like 8k in total and have what you need around 350 whp? maybe
    Who cares how much whp it puts down. The S54 in stock form is more than enough motor for a DD, it is an amazing motor.

    Not sure what he could get for the SC.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Who cares how much whp it puts down. The S54 in stock form is more than enough motor for a DD, it is an amazing motor.
    True, they are fairly fast stock if all you're gonna do is putter down the freeway. Besides 350 whp is about 75-80 hp over stock & it seems to me his mechanic is full of it promising that much unless he is talking bhp, in which case 350-360 is surely obtainable w/the bolt-ons. Probably OP should get that clarified as to whether the guy is talking whp or bhp.
    VF Stage 2 S/C, Supersprint muffler, Stett Performance headers, Custom Performance Rasp Eliminator and Race Cats, GTR hood, 19" SSR GT3's, Bridgestone RE-11's, PSS9 coilovers, Eibach Sways, Powerflex RTABS, Angel Eyes, Smoked Depos
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ccsykes Click here to enlarge
    435 HP @ 7980 RPM and 325 Ft/Lb TQ @ 6,000 RPM (375 RWHP) It wouldn't be very streetable and it has a VANOS delete so you would need a standalone EMS.


    Dudes.....325 ft-lbs of torque out of 3.2L...Am I the only one with feeling that over 100 ft-lbs per liter N/A is a tall claim!?

    I also thought getting 320whp out of an S54 would require at least bolting on Cams....no headwork, but just a cam swap. The additional 30whp to the 350whp goal would come from the Higher Compression/Head Work.

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    Lets do the math..we are going to keep this intake which should give me 10-15 more hp:

    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge
    Last edited by Dr_jitsu; 10-17-2010 at 03:42 PM.

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    BHS ported throttle bodies which should give 7-8 hp

    Probably keep the Aeromotive high capacity fuel pump
    BHS custom fuel delivery system (AN-8)

    UUC lightweight flywheel and clutch kit

    Supersprint ceramic-coated headers...now here is where I think my mechanic is overly optimistic, he thinks I will get 20 hp from the headers.

    Supersprint Race Cats
    Supersprint Resonated X-pipe
    -Supersprint Race Exhaust: These three should easily give me 15 more hp

    I will also keep the
    - BHS Modified primary oil pump
    - Ignition Solutions Coil Packs

    The tune should net me about 15 hp

    Ricer match would add up to an extra 70 hp, but 50-60 is probably more realistic.

    What else can, should I do to squeeze out more power?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu Click here to enlarge
    BHS ported throttle bodies which should give 7-8 hp

    Probably keep the Aeromotive high capacity fuel pump
    BHS custom fuel delivery system (AN-8)

    UUC lightweight flywheel and clutch kit

    Supersprint ceramic-coated headers...now here is where I think my mechanic is overly optimistic, he thinks I will get 20 hp from the headers.

    Supersprint Race Cats
    Supersprint Resonated X-pipe
    -Supersprint Race Exhaust: These three should easily give me 15 more hp

    I will also keep the
    - BHS Modified primary oil pump
    - Ignition Solutions Coil Packs

    The tune should net me about 15 hp

    Ricer match would add up to an extra 70 hp, but 50-60 is probably more realistic.

    What else can, should I do to squeeze out more power?
    Go with the Ebay header for cheap, it gives around 10-12 whp I believe.

    You recognize it as ricer math so you get it Click here to enlarge You should expect 320 whp with the headers. The ignition solution coil packs give you around 3 whp, not much. To get anything more out of this setup it will take some aggressive cams.

    I'm not sure if that intake will be as effective as a CSL setup.

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    Why would I want to go with the Ebay header when I have the Supersprint ceramic coated headers already?

    It was my understanding that they were good quality.

    Will a pulley swap help?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu Click here to enlarge
    Why would I want to go with the Ebay header when I have the Supersprint ceramic coated headers already?
    Sorry, my misunderstanding, I thought you intended to add the supersprint header. No need to change now that I see you have it, the supersprint header is a solid piece.

    Pulley will give you a bit, recommended definitely if trying to squeeze those ponies out.

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