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Thread: TIP'S ON DIY VALVE CLEANING

              
   
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    TIP'S ON DIY VALVE CLEANING

    I live nowhere near a reputable shop for intake valve cleaning ..Click here to enlarge

    so I have decided to do it myself.
    north Scottsdale bmw in Arizona wanted $899 Click here to enlarge

    I said no thanks,


    I would like to hear tips on what tools work best for the job and also what is needed .

    here are some tools I have found online so far that I will be purchasing. feel free to give your feedback.





    http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-lb-Pressu...item3a8a74911c

    still deciding on which gun
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Central-pneu...item2a36b39e97

    I already have this gun kit
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/400452088414...84.m1439.l2649

    looking to use this method


    your help is appreciated

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    what size grade to use (walnut shell)

    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

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    We use .5mm shell. You can take a rad hose, poke a hole in the end away from the head to push your blasting tool through. Tape a vacuum to the far end as well. Push the hose into the intake chamber, turn on the vac, start blasting.

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    You will need similar to this. That little hand tool will cause you to much grief.



    https://www.google.ca/search?q=walnu...w=1301&bih=626

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    get the harbor freight blaster then remove the tip that comes with the gun and buy a piece of copper tube that fits in the end of it tightly . you have to have the bmw tool for intake think its like 75.00 from ecs .don't try and remove intake like the guy in the video pull the throttle body and then disconnect the black box makes it easier and get a starter switch/jumper so you can crank the motor to close valves .and tape all open intakes media will end up everywhere .

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    I glued a piece of copper tube into a sand blaster tool from a Mexican tool place, $15. You have to mess with the length of the copper tube to keep it working but it's not difficult (just don't make the tube too long, mine was like 6" iirc). I then took a small piece of plastic I had laying around, cut it to cover one port and drilled two holes through it. One for the blasting tool and one large one for a shopvac to connect to. Well kinda, the large hole was large enough to put a 5/8" vacuum line I had lying around into and glue (jb weld baby). I then managed to seal this to a shop vac with one of the adapters and duct tape. Worked perfectly, cost was around $40 total with the blast media (I don't remember the grit I got, I think it was fine or something like that). Protips- cover the engine bay with plastic as you'll make a mess, and have a bottle or two of carb or brake cleaner to fine clean with. You can rotate the motor by just bridging the starter battery wire to the solenoid wire about 1" away from it just enough to rotate the motor slightly.

    After reading the comments I think the rad hose method would be the easiest and I'm upset I didn't think of it.

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    There is an extreamley effective product you can buy from Subaru or I believe three bond make an equivalent. Its an upper engine cleaner, the Subaru boxer engine is prone to carbon build up on the valves and combustion chambers and this product is designed to remove it. All you do is remove a vacuum hose with the engine running and spray it in while someone holds the rpm up. It does work we use it a lot on engines with high leakage readings and it cleans it right up.

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    If you have a compressor this cheapo atrocity of a blaster worked great. Nothing but the highest in quality for my BMW as long as it's under $20. The more expensive blasters are probably better, but I couldn't find one in the timeframe I wanted for the price I was willing to pay.

    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by IMHOWTFFTW Click here to enlarge
    This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
    We use .5mm shell. You can take a rad hose, poke a hole in the end away from the head to push your blasting tool through. Tape a vacuum to the far end as well. Push the hose into the intake chamber, turn on the vac, start blasting.
    .5mm walnut shell grade got yah thanks

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cwarren Click here to enlarge
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    get the harbor freight blaster then remove the tip that comes with the gun and buy a piece of copper tube that fits in the end of it tightly . you have to have the bmw tool for intake think its like 75.00 from ecs .don't try and remove intake like the guy in the video pull the throttle body and then disconnect the black box makes it easier and get a starter switch/jumper so you can crank the motor to close valves .and tape all open intakes media will end up everywhere .
    harbor freight blaster okay thanks ill read up on that blaster. what size gallon blaster do you recommend 10g 20g ...

    (( pull the throttle body and then disconnect the black box makes it easier and get a starter switch/jumper so you can crank the motor to close valves )) .. thanks for the heads up

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
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    If you have a compressor this cheapo atrocity of a blaster worked great. Nothing but the highest in quality for my BMW as long as it's under $20. The more expensive blasters are probably better, but I couldn't find one in the timeframe I wanted for the price I was willing to pay.

    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge
    great Idea this picture helps me out... what gun is this in the picture im looking for something like this

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by APC Australia Click here to enlarge
    This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
    There is an extreamley effective product you can buy from Subaru or I believe three bond make an equivalent. Its an upper engine cleaner, the Subaru boxer engine is prone to carbon build up on the valves and combustion chambers and this product is designed to remove it. All you do is remove a vacuum hose with the engine running and spray it in while someone holds the rpm up. It does work we use it a lot on engines with high leakage readings and it cleans it right up.
    interesting .. stuff
    when I type up threebond liquid gasket pop's up
    if you do remember the name of that product please post it .. thanks

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    The rad hose method worked great on a few I did before ECS got the bmw tool in stock. I almost wanted to cancel my order,lol. $75 is worth it though. Made no mess at all with the hose method.



    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
    This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
    I glued a piece of copper tube into a sand blaster tool from a Mexican tool place, $15. You have to mess with the length of the copper tube to keep it working but it's not difficult (just don't make the tube too long, mine was like 6" iirc). I then took a small piece of plastic I had laying around, cut it to cover one port and drilled two holes through it. One for the blasting tool and one large one for a shopvac to connect to. Well kinda, the large hole was large enough to put a 5/8" vacuum line I had lying around into and glue (jb weld baby). I then managed to seal this to a shop vac with one of the adapters and duct tape. Worked perfectly, cost was around $40 total with the blast media (I don't remember the grit I got, I think it was fine or something like that). Protips- cover the engine bay with plastic as you'll make a mess, and have a bottle or two of carb or brake cleaner to fine clean with. You can rotate the motor by just bridging the starter battery wire to the solenoid wire about 1" away from it just enough to rotate the motor slightly.

    After reading the comments I think the rad hose method would be the easiest and I'm upset I didn't think of it.

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    10 g works great. On only 1 job did I have to re fill the canister.



    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by wreckz Click here to enlarge
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    harbor freight blaster okay thanks ill read up on that blaster. what size gallon blaster do you recommend 10g 20g ...

    (( pull the throttle body and then disconnect the black box makes it easier and get a starter switch/jumper so you can crank the motor to close valves )) .. thanks for the heads up

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by IMHOWTFFTW Click here to enlarge
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    The rad hose method worked great on a few I did before ECS got the bmw tool in stock. I almost wanted to cancel my order,lol. $75 is worth it though. Made no mess at all with the hose method.
    I'll pay you to walnut blast my car. I believe you're local to me, I think I seen your car at speeddistrict events no?
    Then:
    '09 Vw Gti - RIP
    '10 Cobalt SS Built & Big Turbo- Sold

    Now:
    '07 e90 335i


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    Oh sorry my man!. I was in your great State a few weeks ago for Supercross, lol. I live in Victoria BC, Canada. I know of a couple Dakar owners down there. You must have seen one of them. It is a fantastic service. Well worth the cost up to $500 IMO.


    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
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    I'll pay you to walnut blast my car. I believe you're local to me, I think I seen your car at speeddistrict events no?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by IMHOWTFFTW Click here to enlarge
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    Oh sorry my man!. I was in your great State a few weeks ago for Supercross, lol. I live in Victoria BC, Canada. I know of a couple Dakar owners down there. You must have seen one of them. It is a fantastic service. Well worth the cost up to $500 IMO.
    Thanks brotha!! I will ask around and see where I can get it done!
    Then:
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    '10 Cobalt SS Built & Big Turbo- Sold

    Now:
    '07 e90 335i


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by APC Australia Click here to enlarge
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    There is an extreamley effective product you can buy from Subaru or I believe three bond make an equivalent. Its an upper engine cleaner, the Subaru boxer engine is prone to carbon build up on the valves and combustion chambers and this product is designed to remove it. All you do is remove a vacuum hose with the engine running and spray it in while someone holds the rpm up. It does work we use it a lot on engines with high leakage readings and it cleans it right up.
    Are you talking about seafoam? It works really well just have to be careful with the 02's some say it might burn em out but I never had a problem with it. I had oil accumulation of my intake manifold/ports so I ran the seafoam thru it and put on a catch can she's been clean as a whistle since. After you dump the bottle in the car with the rpms constant shut the car off for 10 mins. When you start it back up he ready for a smoke bomb out of the tailpipes of all the $#@! it just burned off. Make sure the car is outside

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    I live in Chandler and have all the stuff you need to perform this task except the gaskets to put your intake manifold back on, and an air compressor. I have the walnut shell, the bmw adapter tools, hell even butchered a shop vac attachment to get further in for cleaning out. I've done my own and several other cars. Hit me up if you want to borrow my stuff, you can just have the walnut shells, etc. $900 is stupid expensive.

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    Seafoam won't do anything on these motors as far as carbon deposits on the intake valves. It'll just make it messier unless you want to close the valve and hand scrub each one. Which will work... but sweet jebus is that a rough way to do it.

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    Not the seafoam/intake cleaner debate again... how many times does it have to be proven to not work on a DI cars valves...

    I'm sure it "helps", maybe it takes off 1% of the carbon deposits. Maybe it cleans the combustion chamber slightly or some loose carbon off the injectors inside the chamber. But to anybody who honestly believes it's an acceptable alternative to blasting or a good scrub with a gun cleaning kit is just plain wrong. This has been proven time and time again. Find the threads of guys who did these then took the manifold off, still looks like somebody took a carbon dump on their intake valves. Ask the people who have let the cleaners sit for hours on closed valves with the intake off to come back and find the deposits are still rock hard and not budging or even getting loosened up. These things are great for port fueled cars, but not DI.

    /endrant

    Just blast them. It's not difficult, just time consuming the first time.

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    Exactly. It's not a debate guys. It won't work for pulling carbon off the intake valves. The stuff is on there thick and sticky. Seafoam will smile at it and wave as it swirls by on the way to making your car smoke because seafoam smokes. FWIW I used seafoam on my Subaru with good results, this is a different animal and not applicable.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
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    Thanks brotha!! I will ask around and see where I can get it done!
    We have all the equipment needed to do this!! All we have to do is work out our schedules.

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    been doing some more reading and I've found this





    here's the website

    http://thegermantooltruck.com/wp/

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    Boom! Click here to enlarge


    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alpinedevil335 Click here to enlarge
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    We have all the equipment needed to do this!! All we have to do is work out our schedules.

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