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  1. #1
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    Manual gearbox - hard to put in reverse - thump when selecting reverse. Opinions ?

    Hi,

    6MT 335i N54 here.

    Today something new happened with my car: when I tried to put it in reverse when parking (drove normally all day, did not push the car), it was difficult to select the gear but it did work. And whenever I put it in reverse with the engine started and clutch pressed, I hear a "thump" just after the gear is selected (clutch still pressed !) but it goes smoothly now. When I put it in reverse with the engine stopped, it goes smoothly. The other gears work normally with engine started or stopped. Clutch pedal feel has not changed.

    What could it be ? From the symptoms, is it safe to conclude that the clutch does not fully disengage when pressing the clutch pedal ? I mean, if the clutch would fully disengage, the gearbox should react with clutch pressed just as it acts with the engine stopped because no parts in the gearbox are moving, right ?

    I have a further reinforced Sachs Performance clutch, the pedal is quite stiff, I wonder if the clutch cylinder failed in time because the force needed to push the clutch was too high ? Or maybe the clutch plate itself failed somehow ?

    Or maybe the clutch circuit needs bleeding ?

    Or maybe it's just normal (I don't think so) ?

    Any opinions ?
    Thanks !
    Last edited by cstavaru; 01-21-2014 at 04:59 PM. Reason: grammar

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    Anyone?

    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
    : http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Do you have an aftermarket LSD? M3 subframe bushings? Defiv lockdown? Aftermarket toe arms?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    Do you have an aftermarket LSD? M3 subframe bushings? Defiv lockdown? Aftermarket toe arms?
    Yes, aftermarket LSD (Drexler) and M3 subframe bushings.

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    If its only a new issue its a sign that your clutch or one of the components in the hydraulic system are starting to get worn out more than likely

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    I have the same noise when I got my Quaife and M3 subframe bushings as well. The thud come right after you put into gear and it sounds like the gearing is settling in. It could also be that noise travels more in the chassis due to stiffer subframe bushings. I want to say it's normal because I've had this same noise and I've had no problems. I also have HPF S2 clutch and got new install kit as well.

    What I would suggest which has been an absolute success, especially in cold weather, is the Redline transmission oil @dzenno suggested in one of these threads. I forgot which exact one.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cstavaru Click here to enlarge
    Yes, aftermarket LSD (Drexler) and M3 subframe bushings.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by APC Australia Click here to enlarge
    If its only a new issue its a sign that your clutch or one of the components in the hydraulic system are starting to get worn out more than likely
    I think I will bleed the clutch first, to see what happens.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    I have the same noise when I got my Quaife and M3 subframe bushings as well. The thud come right after you put into gear and it sounds like the gearing is settling in. It could also be that noise travels more in the chassis due to stiffer subframe bushings. I want to say it's normal because I've had this same noise and I've had no problems.
    You described the noise perfectly, but to me it sounds like the driveshaft moving and trying to spin the diff, then stops because of too low momentum. I don't mind this thud. But on the other hand, why this thud when the clutch is pressed (so the gearbox parts should be still and shouldn't move at all ? Or maybe I am wrong on this ?) I think it was there from the beginning, but now it was hard to select reverse gear (once) and then I couldn't reproduce the problem again. Hopefully there were just some misaligned pinions. But I think I will bleed the clutch to see what happens.

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    Since you're going to have the car in the air have someone put it in gear with the clutch pressed in while you check the rear wheels for movement.

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    I'd start with bleeding the clutch, also had it happen in my e36 and it was the tranny mounts themselves. Didnt wanna engage smoothly

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    Could you try putting it into 3rd/4th first and then reverse?

    I have the same problem with first and and reverse gear. Reading around on the net it seems a common problem on other manual bmws (e46/e36 etc). For the record I have an oem m3 lsd.
    Alpine White 2008 6MT 335i - Cobb AP - PTF Tuned - RB Turbos - AR DPs - VRSF 3.5" exhaust - Custom FMIC - 380mm BBK F&R - BMS DCI - M3 DCT LSD - Whiteline subframe bushes - M3 Sways and rear arms - M3 wishbones - ER CP - Spec Stage 3+ clutch and steel SMFW - AST 4100 Coilovers - UUC DSSR -UUC Black tranny mounts - TMS Alu diff bushes - Forge DVs - Aquamist HFS-4 meth - Alufelgen CS7s - BMWP V1 Steering Wheel

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    My problem has not appeared since that day. Everything goes smoothly, I do hear the thump when selecting reverse but I think it's normal. I will postpone any checks until the spring.

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    Is the thump example when either coasting and reselecting first (as often done when arriving at lights and then realising you can move off). And maybe when parallel parking and moving from first to reverse and back again repeatedly with actual engagement of the clutch and revs in between?
    Is it more obvious on hot and therefore thinner oil and less obvious on cold days?
    Is it diminished if you leave clutch depressed and wait a while for the idler shaft to show down before engaging the gear?

    Not claiming I'm particularly knowledgeable on this bit this is what Kevin Bird thought through when thinking through what he thought was maybe idler shaft carring it's own momentum for a period after declutching. He thought he could imagine that torque takimg up the slack in the LSD helical gears as they move from forward to reverse mode.

    quite common clunk on LSD combined with solid bushings if you search.

    I was offered thicker transmission oil as an attempt to slow that idler shaft and resolve it, but I declined. If you now have cold weather you might be obtaining the same effect without changing the oil.

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