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  1. #1
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    Brake Bleed - need GT1 scanner

    Hey guys, so after bleeding the brakes twice of my upgraded competition brakes I slightly remember seeing the DSC come on, which would indicate me needing to get the ABS GT1 bleed or equal ..


    Anyone got one that can come to my house and perform the procedure before I have car towed to a shop?


    I live on Ft Meade, Maryland
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    The brakes don't work at all even after being bled?

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    Good pedal feel when car is off, to the floor when car is on, and now I am about to turn the car on and spray around the vacuum lines to see if any bubbles arise.
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    No leaks around the vacuum lines or around the reservoir at all. Almost certain its the issue stated above...
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    Anyone?

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    I suppose GT1s are hard to come by lol
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    I have done this several times over the years with OEM and aftermarket junk. Although a GT1/DIS is helpful, I would lean towards a massive air-pocket stuck somewhere in the system as your soft pedal issue (maybe in the new calipers?). You can evacuate the fluid out of the ABS unit without a GT1 by activating the system on the road several times.

    1. Get your very own DIS system from Ebay for $50 and wait 10 days for delivery - they work! (I have the BMcables version - not to be confused with the now defunct BMtechnic)
    2. Buy 4 liters of your favorite Brake fluid and bleed all 4 corners very SLOWLY, and clutch line again with a proper Motive pressure bleeder at 20-25 psi (different color will be helpful)
    3. Tap each caliper with a rubber mallet during bleed and monitor the fluid carefully for miniature air-bubbles.

    This should get your basic pedal feel back, assuming you have no issues with either slave/master cylinder. You can pop the master with an over-zealous pedal pump while bleeding.... just an FYI.

    If you get the pedal "feel" back again with the car on, find a deserted flat road and attempt several (4-5) panic stops from 50 mph (that activate the ABS light on your car). This will FORCE any remaining fluid or air out of the ABS unit into the lines. Pressure up the bleeder again to 20 psi and prepare to bleed the passenger rear brake (furthest from the reservoir). Bleed line slowly and check for bubbles. If bubbles present in passenger rear, you will have air in each line.

    Top off and bleed the 4 corners again at this point (hence the 4 liters).

    Hope this helps,
    Mike

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    Thank you for the post
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MisterEm Click here to enlarge
    I have done this several times over the years with OEM and aftermarket junk. Although a GT1/DIS is helpful, I would lean towards a massive air-pocket stuck somewhere in the system as your soft pedal issue (maybe in the new calipers?). You can evacuate the fluid out of the ABS unit without a GT1 by activating the system on the road several times.

    1. Get your very own DIS system from Ebay for $50 and wait 10 days for delivery - they work! (I have the BMcables version - not to be confused with the now defunct BMtechnic)
    2. Buy 4 liters of your favorite Brake fluid and bleed all 4 corners very SLOWLY, and clutch line again with a proper Motive pressure bleeder at 20-25 psi (different color will be helpful)
    3. Tap each caliper with a rubber mallet during bleed and monitor the fluid carefully for miniature air-bubbles.

    This should get your basic pedal feel back, assuming you have no issues with either slave/master cylinder. You can pop the master with an over-zealous pedal pump while bleeding.... just an FYI.

    If you get the pedal "feel" back again with the car on, find a deserted flat road and attempt several (4-5) panic stops from 50 mph (that activate the ABS light on your car). This will FORCE any remaining fluid or air out of the ABS unit into the lines. Pressure up the bleeder again to 20 psi and prepare to bleed the passenger rear brake (furthest from the reservoir). Bleed line slowly and check for bubbles. If bubbles present in passenger rear, you will have air in each line.

    Top off and bleed the 4 corners again at this point (hence the 4 liters).

    Hope this helps,
    Mike
    Very helpful, thank you.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Extremely helpful, I immediately got air from the Right Rear and Left Rear, none from the fronts. Then I achieved an instant 50% better break firmness. I took car back out on some ice/snow and did 6 more stops and activated ABS. Going to bleed again. This $#@! sucks, note to self...never let the reservoir get to low while doing a brake job or just get the damn tool to attach to the reservoir to assist with the brake bleeding.
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  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by m3e46freak Click here to enlarge
    Extremely helpful, I immediately got air from the Right Rear and Left Rear, none from the fronts. Then I achieved an instant 50% better break firmness. I took car back out on some ice/snow and did 6 more stops and activated ABS. Going to bleed again. This $#@! sucks, note to self...never let the reservoir get to low while doing a brake job or just get the damn tool to attach to the reservoir to assist with the brake bleeding.
    Glad it helped! I've been there before myself.

    Just take your time and keep your pressure bleeder plenty full - as issues in your hydraulic system are best found in the garage and not on the road.

    It may take two complete bleed cycles (including ABS activation) to get it all out after a major air-invasion into the lines. I rotate between ATE yellow and blue just to make sure I get it all out. Your eyes can deceive you as your staring at the fluid coming out....

    The DIS tool I linked you in PM will let you activate the ABS module (or any module in the car) from the comfort of your garage - but it is doing the same thing your panic stops do on the road - pumping old fluid/air out and new fluid in.

    PM me if you get stuck and I will give you my number,
    Mike

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    ^ Love this guy...

    So, I do not have a pressure bleeder, I am having my wife pump 5 times slow and then I am releasing pressure on the bleed nipple and then tightening before she releases the pump and adding fluid to keep it at the level. Also, after the 5 pumps and all that, I lightly tap the caliper with a mallet AND then have her do two more pumps slowly and a HARD brake before I release pressure again, then tigthen.
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    Just bought a bmcables package because of this thread Click here to enlarge

    GL with the brakes!
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  14. #14
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    Going to finish this up tomorrow
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  15. #15
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by folgrz Click here to enlarge
    Just bought a bmcables package because of this thread Click here to enlarge

    GL with the brakes!
    Just keep all firewalls and anti virus programs off when trying to connect to your car.

    A battery tender is helpful as well as some of the the tests will suck up a lot of juice and others require a full charge.


    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00068XCQU

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    Today, I am at 75% pedal pressure, I am only getting air from Rear Right and Rear Left calipers. What do you drive MisterEm? I want to relate to you with vehicles.
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  17. #17
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    E46M - Heavily Modified.
    B6 A4 Quattro - Mostly Stock except tune and intercooler.
    F 150 4x4 - Ported Heads, cams, 4.11 gears.

    I've been working on the M car since it left warranty in 2008 and the Audi (wife's) since 2005. My username is the same on M3forum since 2009.

    I've been turning wrenches on hot rods since middle school.

  18. #18
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    Madness, I am on my third m3, two e46s and one e92 m3.
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  19. #19
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    If my darn telepathy wasn't on the fritz I would fix this from here.

    Hi 5
    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

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    I'm sure! I just ordered software to help mitigate some of this on going issues with me having to get everything read... now I need to buy a damn laptop.
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  21. #21
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by m3e46freak Click here to enlarge
    I'm sure! I just ordered software to help mitigate some of this on going issues with me having to get everything read... now I need to buy a damn laptop.
    I can ship you an invisible laptop, but you would need special goggles to view the keys on it. Those are on back order from Pluto.
    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by GG///M3 Click here to enlarge
    I can ship you an invisible laptop, but you would need special goggles to view the keys on it. Those are on back order from Pluto.
    Pluto is no longer a planet. Scammer alert.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Pluto is no longer a planet. Scammer alert.
    Next thing you know the earth will not be either. lol
    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

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