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  1. #1
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    The BTMFR why wouldnt you just buy a manual car instead of swapping in a auto thread?

    When I bought my 335i I wanted an auto. At that time I wasnt so interested in speed and just wanted a easy daily. I do have to say that when I was FBO there were alot of times that I would win races just due to the fact that my auto with alpina flash shifted so fast. Any way as many of you know I am now going single turbo. Also as many of you know the auto blows up and theres no real upgrade option. I hope in the future this comes back because I would like to eventually swap back in an upgraded auto but for now manual swap it is. Now youll ask why not just buy a manual car? Because I dont want to and dont care about the swap. I had my fun with the auto and when I had it I wouldnt trade it for a manual. But now with the single I have to oh well.

    Just a disclaimer. I have not swapped my transmission yet. I will give you a list of the parts I ordered and have and the list of parts that me, my good friend who has a great knowledge of cars, the guy who is building my single turbo, and a factory trained e92 tech have agreed on. Again the swap has not yet happened but I will update when im done and this is just a preliminary post to show the parts that youll need and the problems youll run into.

    Parts:

    Manual transmission with Back up light sensor – GS6-17BG – TCBG got mine from lkq
    Clutch and flywheel of your choice - im going with clutchmasters fx850
    Throw out bearing - came with my fx850 and the transmission from lkq
    Alumnium screws manual transmission – 23000392607
    Pedal assembly – 35006762926 + clutch pedal 35316761310
    Module, clutch switch – 61319122702
    Gearbox support – 22316771065
    slave cylinder
    master cylinder
    lines - ill get the part numbers for these later on
    Transmission fluid - redline d4 atf i believe is the suggested stuff
    The diff should bolt up but the drive shaft on the autos is 17mm shorter than the manual so youll need a 17mm spacer made up which i think im going to either use another guibo or a sold metal piece near the diff
    Youll also need the whole shifter assembly the holder arm and you would be smart to order a short shift kit so you dont have to upgrade again in the future
    dont forget your knob and shift boot

    as far as coding the car i was told by the bmw trained tech not to worry that hell do it no problem but i will ask him the process he does when he does it so i can share

    again this is just a basic write up of parts youll need not the comprehensive guide i will write up later
    Click here to enlarge

  2. #2
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    Hey man I really respect you for doing this. Unfortunately, your option only seems to be to go for a manual to handle the power.

    Your approach is going to be interesting to watch.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Hey man I really respect you for doing this. Unfortunately, your option only seems to be to go for a manual to handle the power.

    Your approach is going to be interesting to watch.
    Its not that I think the manual is the only way to handle the power its that I think that its the only option for me right now. A full blown upgrade from level 10 would cost me around 6500 and thats how much the manual swap is costing me. Level 10 has done some great stuff and some bad stuff. They also never gave me a for sure answer that their upgrade would hold the power and in general they didnt really seem confident when it really got to me sending my trans to them when i told them the power i was going to make so i decided to go with the proven answer. But like i said in my post the first chance i get to have that auto upgraded to hold the power i will and it will go back in the car.
    Last edited by BTMFR; 12-30-2013 at 08:42 PM.
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    And i believe the latest fluid suggestion was redline MT-90 rather than the D4-ATF
    boop

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    That^^^
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    Wow, you estimate about $6,500 to do the swap? A good used trans is about $1,500 and a new performance clutch & flywheel is also about $1,500. Hopefully the misc. stuff doesn't cost that much! Most of that can be picked up used (although a new master & slave wouldn't be a bad idea). I was thinking about doing this too, but wasn't expecting the cost to be anywhere near that.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eleventeen Click here to enlarge
    Wow, you estimate about $6,500 to do the swap? A good used trans is about $1,500 and a new performance clutch & flywheel is also about $1,500. Hopefully the misc. stuff doesn't cost that much! Most of that can be picked up used (although a new master & slave wouldn't be a bad idea). I was thinking about doing this too, but wasn't expecting the cost to be anywhere near that.
    maybe with labor? my total came up 2k without clutch all said and done, but i got a 135i trans that is gone, just need to find an e92 trans for cheap and I'm back in business..
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by sammy_0559 Click here to enlarge
    maybe with labor? my total came up 2k without clutch all said and done, but i got a 135i trans that is gone, just need to find an e92 trans for cheap and I'm back in business..
    Oh yeah, very good point. I was only thinking about it from a DIY perspective.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eleventeen Click here to enlarge
    Wow, you estimate about $6,500 to do the swap? A good used trans is about $1,500 and a new performance clutch & flywheel is also about $1,500. Hopefully the misc. stuff doesn't cost that much! Most of that can be picked up used (although a new master & slave wouldn't be a bad idea). I was thinking about doing this too, but wasn't expecting the cost to be anywhere near that.
    With labor all day. A trans fluid swap kit with pan is over $100, then pay someone to upgrade clutch and install, that's an easy number to hit. Obviously the more you do yourself the better, I think I came to $4k in parts before when I added it up as I have also debated doing the same thing but have decided against it. I'm set on finding a 6AT option.
    2009 335i coupe back to stock...for now

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BTMFR Click here to enlarge
    Its not that I think the manual is the only way to handle the power its that I think that its the only option for me right now. A full blown upgrade from level 10 would cost me around 6500 and thats how much the manual swap is costing me. Level 10 has done some great stuff and some bad stuff. They also never gave me a for sure answer that their upgrade would hold the power and in general they didnt really seem confident when it really got to me sending my trans to them when i told them the power i was going to make so i decided to go with the proven answer. But like i said in my post the first chance i get to have that auto upgraded to hold the power i will and it will go back in the car.
    How much power do you plan on pushing? Short term and long term?
    2009 335i coupe back to stock...for now

    Click here to enlarge

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    Short term maxing out fuel maybe 700whp? Long term blow up motor then rebuild. Maybe a but less than 6500 my clutch was 2900 trans was 1600 and then i bought all new other parts so id guess more near 5k im.doing all my labor
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    I really want to run the new 6870 precision turbo when it comes out supposedly makes 7275hp with between 6466 and 6766 spool but.... theres no hpfp solution yet
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  13. #13
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    So, the thread says "why wouldn't you just buy a manual car instead of swapping in a auto" in the title, so why wouldn't you? Sell the auto and buy a manual car, that is?

    I mean I think a good write up here would be cool with parts and such but you didn't really answer the question you brought up yourself lol. Is your auto blown anyway, or do you just feel an attraction to your particular N54? Not judging... I'm sure she's sexy.

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    I just have other mods on my car like lsd suspension components coilovers bumpers little interior stuff here and there exhaust etc that i just dont want to take off and put on another car it would be more hassle getting all the stock parts and then doing all the work and realistically 2900 of the cost would be spent anyway on the clutch and flywheel so its not worth the say 2000 it costs me now especially the fact that i can use the auto in the future
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    With the CM components make sure you get spec info such as stack height from CM. If you want a high pedal point use the higher CM bearing setting. Closer to middle / stock use the lower throwout bearing position.Double check every tolerance before assembly against CM provided specs. What friction disks did you get? My newest set are bronze and sprung bronze.
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

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    So, is the ecu going to be okay with this change? LOL
    Burger Motorsports
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  17. #17
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BTMFR Click here to enlarge
    2900 of the cost would be spent anyway on the clutch and flywheel
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    460whp/510wtq tuned by Terry

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    I think you are also forgetting the other parts for the interior: center console trim pieces, shifter assembly, pedal box and cluster. There are a lot of electrical pieces as well. I really think you should reconsider the swap and just get a new car.
    From all the things I've lost,
    I miss my mind the most!
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by WDBi Click here to enlarge
    im in the process of doing this: here is what i have and what i know you need

    shifter and shift link assembly this includes the arm that mounts the shifter to the car which bolts to the trans i bought the mount from bmw and a ssk from UUC

    trans

    clutch and flywheel i went with a clutchmasters fx850 twin disk

    master cylinder, slave cylinder, and all the lines

    you also need the clutch pedal and brake assembly as well as the clutch pedal sensor

    i think you need the trans mount but im going to wait until i have it up there to see if its needed

    as far as driveshaft the manual driveshaft is 17mm shorter than the auto i have been thinking about using 2 driveshaft bushings with longer heavyduty bolts to compensate i believe each bushing is 15mm so itll be 2mm off which i think is noise when it comes to our flexible driveshafts

    dont forget if you launch it you will break your axles to upgrade these i think us auto guys only option is to buy mt axles and have those modded

    i also know that you 100% dont need to swap the ecu and that its a simple coding change

    ill let you know if i find anything else needed in my swap
    @WDBi was in the process of doing a swap back in October and hasn't been posting for awhile. Looks like he also bought the same clutch.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    So, is the ecu going to be okay with this change? LOL
    With coding yes

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    With the CM components make sure you get spec info such as stack height from CM. If you want a high pedal point use the higher CM bearing setting. Closer to middle / stock use the lower throwout bearing position.Double check every tolerance before assembly against CM provided specs. What friction disks did you get? My newest set are bronze and sprung bronze.
    Will do

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    I think you are also forgetting the other parts for the interior: center console trim pieces, shifter assembly, pedal box and cluster. There are a lot of electrical pieces as well. I really think you should reconsider the swap and just get a new car.
    I have the pedal box shifter and i don't see why id need a cluster
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BTMFR Click here to enlarge
    I have the pedal box shifter and i don't see why id need a cluster
    Because your current cluster will "vomit" when it sees that the TCU is missing.
    From all the things I've lost,
    I miss my mind the most!
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    Because your current cluster will "vomit" when it sees that the TCU is missing.
    I'm sure all that is codeable, and if it's not we'll find out soon enough Click here to enlarge
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    Because your current cluster will "vomit" when it sees that the TCU is missing.
    you can virginize the cluster, and recode as a new cluster... software wise everything is covered, wiring wise. thats all I'm interested in. everything else is easy.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    Because your current cluster will "vomit" when it sees that the TCU is missing.
    if the ECU doesn't christmas up, don't see why the cluster would?
    boop

  25. #25
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    the cluster does not need to be replaced... a simple recode of the ecu will tell the cluster its a manual and it will be fine
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