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  1. #51
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    I can do the belt and pulley assembly for N54, with bolt for 150 shipped Click here to enlarge

    Group buy? Do I smell a group buy?

    10 or more people, and ill do it for 130 shipped Click here to enlarge
    Does the assembly include both upper and lower idler pulley's?
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  2. #52
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    I can do the belt and pulley assembly for N54, with bolt for 150 shipped Click here to enlargeGroup buy? Do I smell a group buy?10 or more people, and ill do it for 130 shipped Click here to enlarge
    And tensioner? Shipped to Canada?

  3. #53
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    And tensioner? Shipped to Canada?
    Canadian shipping is a $#@!... you'd think it would simple.

    Doubt he can do that price shipped.

  4. #54
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    I'm in. What size is that bolt and how do you get to it? Is there ample room for a 3/8" wrench?
    It's a E14 torx. I have a digital torque to yield torque wrench- it makes life easy for me.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by I6+TT=FTW Click here to enlarge
    Does the assembly include both upper and lower idler pulley's?
    It would be the belt and the main belt tensioner- I have only run into one or two occurances with the idler on these NG6 engines They really don't need attention unless they make noise....
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    And tensioner? Shipped to Canada?
    yea...... sorry, no. Only good for the lower 48.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Canadian shipping is a $#@!... you'd think it would simple.

    Doubt he can do that price shipped.
    ^this guy's right. I got nailed by UPS canada for duty fees that a customer didn't pay! Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge
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  5. #55
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    I got away with a loophole so to speak when shipping to Canada... let's hope they never catch on.

  6. #56
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    Whats the over and above for shipping to canada? Or just not worth it? Tensioner and belt alone up here is about $178 taxes in from dealer with discount.

  7. #57
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    I don't know, I'd have to look it up on your zip code or whatever maple syrup address thingie they use up there Click here to enlarge

    178 isnt a bad deal for it. I'd be willing to bet shipping would be almost the same price
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  8. #58
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Welp, thanks anyway. The addresses of our igloos change since they melt once a year.

  9. #59
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    Where about do you live? is there a Lordco near you?
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    Whats the over and above for shipping to canada? Or just not worth it? Tensioner and belt alone up here is about $178 taxes in from dealer with discount.

  10. #60
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    Welp, thanks anyway. The addresses of our igloos change since they melt once a year.

    lololol
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  11. #61
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    Welp, thanks anyway. The addresses of our igloos change since they melt once a year.
    Ha! Funniest thing a Canadian has ever said on this forum.

  12. #62
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    Yes for some reason it is very difficult to even return parts(warranty or whatever) to the US. I am not even going to let my mind wonder as to why Click here to enlarge

  13. #63
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ging Click here to enlarge
    Where about do you live? is there a Lordco near you?
    Nope. I don't mind paying for it, just always looking for a deal. This will be a maintenance heavy year.

  14. #64
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    had this happen to me in july . I replaced the belt and pulled every little piece of the belt I could find out of every nook and cranny . I never pulled the pan at that time everything seemed fine . I put very little miles on the car because my commute is only 4 miles per day .so in the last few weeks I have heard a nocking coming from what sounds like the lifters this has only happen twice and I shut the car off what a few minutes re-start and its gone . im a little concerned that this might be the oil pump getting clogged . has anyone had a random lifter nock that only appears once in a blue moon ? no check engine light no codes car seems to run fine and logs look ok other than a dying lpfp.yes im going to pull the pan and check it out just incase but I changed the oil right after this happen say within a few weeks and I strained it to see if there was any sign of the shredded belt and there was nothing .

  15. #65
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cwarren Click here to enlarge
    had this happen to me in july . I replaced the belt and pulled every little piece of the belt I could find out of every nook and cranny . I never pulled the pan at that time everything seemed fine . I put very little miles on the car because my commute is only 4 miles per day .so in the last few weeks I have heard a nocking coming from what sounds like the lifters this has only happen twice and I shut the car off what a few minutes re-start and its gone . im a little concerned that this might be the oil pump getting clogged . has anyone had a random lifter nock that only appears once in a blue moon ? no check engine light no codes car seems to run fine and logs look ok other than a dying lpfp.yes im going to pull the pan and check it out just incase but I changed the oil right after this happen say within a few weeks and I strained it to see if there was any sign of the shredded belt and there was nothing .
    If it occasionally happens at idle and goes away as you increase the RPMs it's probably just a sticking lifter or trapped air. Try the lifter bleed procedure -- bring your car to operating temperature and then, while in park, bring the engine up to 3000 RPMs for 3 minutes. You may have to do that several times. Short, gentle commutes aren't good for an engine. You need to get it out on the highway, get up to operating temperature, and let it "stretch its legs" a couple times a week in order to burn off condensation in the oil.

  16. #66
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    I can do the belt and pulley assembly for N54, with bolt for 150 shipped Click here to enlarge

    Group buy? Do I smell a group buy?

    10 or more people, and ill do it for 130 shipped Click here to enlarge



    I'd be in for a group buy.

  17. #67
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SalemChiro Click here to enlarge
    I'd be in for a group buy.
    I may be as well; however, it appears the part number for the belt used in the 535i is different than the one for the 335i. The tensioner appears to be the same though. Would you be able to provide the correct belt depending on what model the buyer has or were you assuming all N54's use the same belt?

  18. #68
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    If the 135i is the same count me in.
    2008 135i - Cobb AP, JB4 G5 w/2Step&FSB, MS DP's, Berk street exhaust, AMS IC, VTT Inlets, UR Intake, ER CP w/Tial BOV, Spec 3+ & Steel FW, CDV delete, Quaife LSD, DSS Axles, M3 control arms, M3 rear SF bushings, M3 Trans bushings, SS brake lines. Pics

  19. #69
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    Just did one on a 128i I've seen worst then this.

    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

  20. #70
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    Click here to enlargeNew one on

  21. #71
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DanL Click here to enlarge
    If it occasionally happens at idle and goes away as you increase the RPMs it's probably just a sticking lifter or trapped air. Try the lifter bleed procedure -- bring your car to operating temperature and then, while in park, bring the engine up to 3000 RPMs for 3 minutes. You may have to do that several times. Short, gentle commutes aren't good for an engine. You need to get it out on the highway, get up to operating temperature, and let it "stretch its legs" a couple times a week in order to burn off condensation in the oil.
    both times this happened to me was after a fairly long drive or at least long for me probably 40 mile drive. and I hear it when I pull into my driveway letting it idle for a second before shut off. I sound rev's with the engine but like I said if I shut it off and wait a minute and restart its gone .would be easy if it was consistent but but this was several weeks apart . after pulling the pan and checking for debris I will also try the bleed procedure and cross my fingers its just that .

  22. #72
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    Hey. What are the things to look for preventative checks. I.e. before the belt shreds?


    Mine Is 32k miles and looks like post 70 so I guess is okay but on an 07 plate so falls into the 'old' category.

    So is it this walking of the belt that should be checked? And is it always *outwards* like in Ging's post 69 above? (Assuming not impacted by subframe issues).

    Thanks
    Chris

  23. #73
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    Spot on! Look for the walking like Ging post.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by crypticc Click here to enlarge
    Hey. What are the things to look for preventative checks. I.e. before the belt shreds?


    Mine Is 32k miles and looks like post 70 so I guess is okay but on an 07 plate so falls into the 'old' category.

    So is it this walking of the belt that should be checked? And is it always *outwards* like in Ging's post 69 above? (Assuming not impacted by subframe issues).

    Thanks
    Chris

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    Had to edit the title as the misspelling of warning was driving me nuts.

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    The 1er is coming up on 4 years of age, sounds like this is a smart thing to do. Count me in for the group buy if that goes down.

    Anyone have a sense of how much of a PITA this is to do? I’m not seeing a ton of space there but would do it myself if you don’t have to do anything exotic.
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