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  1. #26
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    cant go wrong with the amsoil 5-40 or the rotella t6 5-40 both pleasant oils
    - Proven Power Tampa built 6466 ST -
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    -N54 WR 1/4mile trap: 133.57mph- -

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    5w40, $#@! I used 5w30 valvoline syntec. It was the one under the BMW spec sheet for oil on the n54.
    Can we please, please, please, not turn this into another one of those oil discussion where everyone has their favorite oils and reasons why its the best. We l like Amsoil its what we recommend if you do not like or use it. That is fine, but please keep it to yourself. As far as the valvoline you are using. You can use that too, it will work fine, we just prefer the amsoil and slightly higher viscosity to add a little protection at extreme temps etc. It has the same cold viscosity rating, but will give a little buffer when its hot. These cars already run hot as it is.

  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    5w40, $#@! I used 5w30 valvoline syntec. It was the one under the BMW spec sheet for oil on the n54.
    5w-30 is good enough for stock turbos, the 5-40 was recommended for non-stock turbos. couldn't hurt on stock turbos either.
    hell, you can use the left over oil from your GTI Click here to enlarge, i know I put 5w-40 in the TSI.

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by chrisisnapping Click here to enlarge
    5w-30 is good enough for stock turbos, the 5-40 was recommended for non-stock turbos. couldn't hurt on stock turbos either.
    hell, you can use the left over oil from your GTI Click here to enlarge, i know I put 5w-40 in the TSI.
    Yea haha, I used shell rotella 5w35 or something on my GTI too so yea.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    Can we please, please, please, not turn this into another one of those oil discussion where everyone has their favorite oils and reasons why its the best. We l like Amsoil its what we recommend if you do not like or use it. That is fine, but please keep it to yourself. As far as the valvoline you are using. You can use that too, it will work fine, we just prefer the amsoil and slightly higher viscosity to add a little protection at extreme temps etc. It has the same cold viscosity rating, but will give a little buffer when its hot. These cars already run hot as it is.
    No worries lol. It was just a statement
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  5. #30
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    Just a couple weak links in the car that I don't see listed.

    1) Vacuum canisters (nipple)

    2) Chargepipe

    I think it's foolish to say "you shouldn't push the power if you don't already know these things" lots of people get into a new platform who are used to larger powered cars and want to get going right away. Being able to research a list of weak links is awesome. I guarantee you if you bought a mustang and did a search on SVTP or something you would find a similar list and be thankful.
    2009 335i coupe back to stock...for now

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  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mjmarovi Click here to enlarge
    I think it's foolish to say "you shouldn't push the power if you don't already know these things" lots of people get into a new platform who are used to larger powered cars and want to get going right away. Being able to research a list of weak links is awesome. I guarantee you if you bought a mustang and did a search on SVTP or something you would find a similar list and be thankful.
    They aren't really weak links though. They're just typical maintenance you would do on any car when upping the power. It's basic car stuff, like oil change and spark plugs.
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    They aren't really weak links though. They're just typical maintenance you would do on any car when upping the power. It's basic car stuff, like oil change and spark plugs.
    Oil change and spark plugs sure, I'm just talking about the list in general, N54 specific items, sorry if you only meant oil and plugs, thought you meant the whole list....which just didn't make sense, lol
    2009 335i coupe back to stock...for now

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  8. #33
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    I absolutely LOVE amsoil. It's difficult to find though.

    I would add to the list for 6MT guys GM Synchromesh, CDV delete and the red/black transmission mount poly insert thing as well. It's cheap and easy and since it's hard enough to hit 2nd gear with stock turbo torque I'm sure it would help with hybrids. Good time to do it would be when doing the clutch too.

  9. #34
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    Ok, so with the issues a recent OP had after installing turbos, and not replacing some parts we like to see replaced, we decided to make a post detailing what we think could have been done to avoid them. Here is a quick run down of what we feel NEEDS to be replaced when upgrading your turbochargers.


    • Clutch ( Sped 2+ or 3+ are popular upgrades and seem to work well)
    • Upgraded PCV valve ( we have these in stock, also consider valve cover gasket and PCV hose)
    • Oil Catch can (BMS is suggested due to its short line routing)
    • All Vacuum lines from pump to canisters, canisters to solenoids, solenoids to actuators
    • All worm clamps on charge piping to T-Bolt clamps
    • If not already done, upgraded intercooler, and non 3" catted DPís
    • Replace plugs with NGK5992ís gapped to 0.56mm or 0.022Ē
    • Replace your intank pump wth a walbro 455 or run a walbro inline
    • Replace any suspect coils or injectors
    • Run only 91+ fuels and higher


    That should get your in a good place to reliably make good horsepower with no issues. If anyone can think of something I missed feel free to add it.
    Excellent idea to make such a list. Even if not all agree on every item, but it's a very good starting point.

    I would like to add another item for the 6MT guys: A single mass flywheel. You can certainly try to re-use the dual mass OEM one, but IMO this is - at least on higher power levels - just asking for trouble. Mine (I combined it with an HPF clutch) was causing substantial vibrations since the start (and it was a new one!), and Dzenno had to deactivate the misfire detection in the DME. Others with upgraded turbos have seen their DMFW disintegrate, and this can be potentially very dangerous for the gearbox and your feet.

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  10. #35
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    I have a quick question regarding the n20 3.5 TMAP sensor, which is suppose to allow a higher boost thresh hold (20+ psi). Would I need to order that sensor so that I could get the full potential out of the stage 2 turbos or is the stock sensor suffice? I'm not sure if this is something I would need, but it was something that caught my interest and it seemed that other people that have upgraded turbos are using it.
    E92 Chameleon 335I/ VTT Stg 2/ EOS manifold w PI/ JB4 G5 w/ BB Flash/ BMS DCI/ BMS Cowls/ Fuel it stg 2 lpfp/ MMP Inlets and outlets/ ER CP w/ Synaspe BOV/ M2 Exhaust/VRSF DP/ ETS FMIC/ BMS OCC/ BMS Meth Kit CMGS

  11. #36
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    Stock TMAP with stg 2 turbos will be fine, unless you're shooting for some sort of insane torque goal.

  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
    I absolutely LOVE amsoil. It's difficult to find though.

    I would add to the list for 6MT guys GM Synchromesh, CDV delete and the red/black transmission mount poly insert thing as well. It's cheap and easy and since it's hard enough to hit 2nd gear with stock turbo torque I'm sure it would help with hybrids. Good time to do it would be when doing the clutch too.
    Im replacing my clutch very soon and want to do everything I can while Im in there; one being the trans mount. I was going to use a brand new E46 M3 trans mount since I read that it is stiffer than the OEM 335i one and I read that the UUC black mount failed on Dzenno's car. Thoughts?
    Click here to enlarge
    460whp/510wtq tuned by Terry

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MAC335 Click here to enlarge
    Im replacing my clutch very soon and want to do everything I can while Im in there; one being the trans mount. I was going to use a brand new E46 M3 trans mount since I read that it is stiffer than the OEM 335i one and I read that the UUC black mount failed on Dzenno's car. Thoughts?
    I've got the E46 M3 Trans mounts on my car and like them. I can't tell the difference between them in NVH or drive-ability.
    2008 135i - Cobb AP, JB4 G5 w/2Step&FSB, MS DP's, Berk street exhaust, AMS IC, VTT Inlets, UR Intake, ER CP w/Tial BOV, Spec 3+ & Steel FW, CDV delete, Quaife LSD, DSS Axles, M3 control arms, M3 rear SF bushings, M3 Trans bushings, SS brake lines. Pics

  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by brusk Click here to enlarge
    I've got the E46 M3 Trans mounts on my car and like them. I can't tell the difference between them in NVH or drive-ability.
    Nice! So you're saying you cant tell if it made the shifts feel any better? But its definitely not worse than the oem unit? Why do you like them then? are they cheaper?
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  15. #40
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MAC335 Click here to enlarge
    Nice! So you're saying you cant tell if it made the shifts feel any better? But its definitely not worse than the oem unit? Why do you like them then? are they cheaper?
    I like em cause they are cheap, easy to replace, beefier with no downsides. My car still has low mileage so the originals were still in good shape and I did the M3's before switching to E85 blend so I don't know if it helped with shifting.
    2008 135i - Cobb AP, JB4 G5 w/2Step&FSB, MS DP's, Berk street exhaust, AMS IC, VTT Inlets, UR Intake, ER CP w/Tial BOV, Spec 3+ & Steel FW, CDV delete, Quaife LSD, DSS Axles, M3 control arms, M3 rear SF bushings, M3 Trans bushings, SS brake lines. Pics

  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by brusk Click here to enlarge
    I like em cause they are cheap, easy to replace, beefier with no downsides. My car still has low mileage so the originals were still in good shape and I did the M3's before switching to E85 blend so I don't know if it helped with shifting.
    Oh ok gotcha. My trans mounts have almost 70k on them so we'll see. Definitely going with E46 M3 mounts now tho. Thanks for the info.
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  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MAC335 Click here to enlarge
    Oh ok gotcha. My trans mounts have almost 70k on them so we'll see. Definitely going with E46 M3 mounts now tho. Thanks for the info.
    E46 mounts are a good move, but just FYI I’ve been extremely satisfied with the Rogue mounts on my car. It’s 6AT so there isn’t as much lateral slop to begin with, but regardless WOT shifts feel firmer and more direct. I believe D’s UUC mounts broke because they were poly, and he drives like a madman.

    RobC also has the rogue mounts, he did a great DIY on them over on the other forum.

    A worthy upgrade, especially for a stage 2 car. My stock mounts were getting pretty mushy when I replaced them at 51xxx.
    E88 N54 w stuff
    F30 335 X-Drive EBII....PPK otherwise Stock
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  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135pats Click here to enlarge
    Rogue mounts on my car. Itís 6AT so there isnít as much lateral slop to begin with, but regardless WOT shifts feel firmer and more direct.My stock mounts were getting pretty mushy when I replaced them at 51xxx.
    +1 My stock trans mounts were pretty crappy looking/feeling when I replaced them with the rogue mounts at 84k miles.
    2008 e92 335i: JB4 G5 ISO/BMS back end flash, fbo, e85, inlets, Rb turbos, level 10 valve body + converter, water/methanol.....and a lot more....

  19. #44
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MAC335 Click here to enlarge
    Im replacing my clutch very soon and want to do everything I can while Im in there; one being the trans mount. I was going to use a brand new E46 M3 trans mount since I read that it is stiffer than the OEM 335i one and I read that the UUC black mount failed on Dzenno's car. Thoughts?
    I wasn't aware the UUC mount failed on his car, and also wasn't aware you could use the old m3 mount. I would say first and foremost it's just important to do something there, if you like being able to hit second gear, and you like to keep your drivetrain straight.

  20. #45
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 135pats Click here to enlarge
    E46 mounts are a good move, but just FYI I’ve been extremely satisfied with the Rogue mounts on my car. It’s 6AT so there isn’t as much lateral slop to begin with, but regardless WOT shifts feel firmer and more direct. I believe D’s UUC mounts broke because they were poly, and he drives like a madman.

    RobC also has the rogue mounts, he did a great DIY on them over on the other forum.

    A worthy upgrade, especially for a stage 2 car. My stock mounts were getting pretty mushy when I replaced them at 51xxx.

    Good lookin out! Just read the description on HPAutosport's website. So how good are they in terms of NVH? Yours being AT might make a difference too, I dunno. Their website says its "not required or necessary for auto or SMG tranny".
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    460whp/510wtq tuned by Terry

  21. #46
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Stucks Click here to enlarge
    +1 My stock trans mounts were pretty crappy looking/feeling when I replaced them with the rogue mounts at 84k miles.
    Are you 6MT or AT? Hows NVH?


    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
    I wasn't aware the UUC mount failed on his car, and also wasn't aware you could use the old m3 mount. I would say first and foremost it's just important to do something there, if you like being able to hit second gear, and you like to keep your drivetrain straight.
    Yes, agreed. Have to do something there. Rogue or E46 M3 mounts seem like the best options for a street car that sees the track about once a month.
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    460whp/510wtq tuned by Terry

  22. #47
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MAC335 Click here to enlarge
    Are you 6MT or AT? Hows NVH?.

    Yes, 6at. No noticeable increase in vibrations.
    2008 e92 335i: JB4 G5 ISO/BMS back end flash, fbo, e85, inlets, Rb turbos, level 10 valve body + converter, water/methanol.....and a lot more....

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    Very surprised not to see charge pipe on the list as posted above.

  24. #49
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Stucks Click here to enlarge
    Yes, 6at. No noticeable increase in vibrations.
    +1 I can't perceive any additional nvh. It's a simple upgrade that a STG2 car should absolutely have if you plan to drive it.

    Lol "now with meth" Click here to enlarge
    E88 N54 w stuff
    F30 335 X-Drive EBII....PPK otherwise Stock
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Just for reference, when I upgraded my turbos all I did was fresh oil and coolant, new plugs and removed OCC. car had 32k miles on it. I suppose for older cars better safe than sorry but think it's overkill.

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