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  1. #1
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    Probably a stupid question but still going to ask it (Clutch)...

    Pretty sure I already know the answer but figured there's a chance someone on here knows something I don't... Anyways the question is is there a way for me to check if my clutch is stock other than dropping the transmission? Follow up is if yes is there anyway I can check which brand?

    Ever since I got the car i've always felt that the clutch was extremely stiff and more so than any other car i've driven (including E92 M3's, B8 Audi S4's, old S4's, jeeps, etc). Still I thought there was no way it would be aftermarket since the car was stock as far as I know. Anyways recently i've been rethinking that it might not be stock. A few weeks ago at the shop I let an employee drive it and he stalled. We all started making fun of him and he said "no seriously this clutch is hard to drive." Afterwards the shop owner and I went out for a test drive and he agreed noting that it was much stiffer than the one in his 135i.

    Along with that as I said my first time driving a E92 M3 first thing I noticed is how light that clutch felt. My clutch engages pretty abruptly and not smooth, and engagement not all that smooth. I'm also shocked it is not slipping with 61k miles and the amount of torque I make even though I don't DD that setup. I did, however, have it slip a bit a few weeks ago after doing a bunch of 2-step launches in a row. That could just be from heat though, right?

    Is there anything internally in the clutch that could fail or be on its way out causing a stiff pedal or is it for sure aftermarket? Today I also had the opportunity to do a direct comparison between my car and a E90 335xi completely stock and again the difference was definitely there. That E90 felt like most stock clutches i've driven on regardless of the brand.

    Again these are probably stupid questions but who knows.
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    E90 335i xDrive 6spd, Nav, Prem, Cold Weather, & Sports package - Msport Conversion
    Mods: JB4 + MHD, Doc Race ST, Pure 6266, AD-Eng PI/Mounts, Fuel-It st. 3, Custom Exhaust, Tuned by TwistedTuning
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  2. #2
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    Your description is a tell-tale sign of aftermarket clutch setup. I wouldn't bother tearing apart unless you were going in to swap, once it started slipping.

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    It might be an afetermarket clutch because the stock clutch feels light compared to any aftermarket and also the stock clutch doesn't engage abruptly. Maybe the previous owner installed an aftermarket clutch in it because the stock couldn't take the power. Try to get in contact with the previous owner and ask him if he did install an aftermarket clutch.
    does the clutch engage close to the floor?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ovitrix Click here to enlarge
    It might be an afetermarket clutch because the stock clutch feels light compared to any aftermarket and also the stock clutch doesn't engage abruptly. Maybe the previous owner installed an aftermarket clutch in it because the stock couldn't take the power. Try to get in contact with the previous owner and ask him if he did install an aftermarket clutch.
    does the clutch engage close to the floor?
    Any ideas on how I could get in contact with the previous owner? I bought the car from a KIA dealership and I don't think BMW will give me any of his personal details. It doesn't really engage close to the floor. I have the BMS clutch stop with 1 washer removed and there is very little play in the floor before engagement begins. I'd say I have an inch maybe a bit more on the pedal then it engages. It's not necessarily that it engages abruptly all the time but it's just not as smooth as other cars stock clutches i've driven. Maybe I should go to a dealer and see if I can drive another one since i've only felt the stock one while the car was parked
    Click here to enlarge < Click picture for photoshoot
    E90 335i xDrive 6spd, Nav, Prem, Cold Weather, & Sports package - Msport Conversion
    Mods: JB4 + MHD, Doc Race ST, Pure 6266, AD-Eng PI/Mounts, Fuel-It st. 3, Custom Exhaust, Tuned by TwistedTuning
    More Pictures: Build Thread /// Dyno Soon to Come

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    I don't think Bmw will tell you any info about the previous owner. I think you might have an act clutch with an oem dmfw. Your car puts down a lot of torque to still be on the stock clutch, and to have 61k miles. You should drive a 335 with stock clutch to see the difference.

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    If your really wanting to find out you might be able to pull the slave cylinder and use a borescope to see the pressure plate. This all depends on how much dust has accumulated on it.
    2008 135i - Cobb AP, JB4 G5 w/2Step&FSB, MS DP's, Berk street exhaust, AMS IC, VTT Inlets, UR Intake, ER CP w/Tial BOV, Spec 3+ & Steel FW, CDV delete, Quaife LSD, DSS Axles, M3 control arms, M3 rear SF bushings, M3 Trans bushings, SS brake lines. Pics

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    Or just wait until you change the clutch. You said it slipped a few times before, right?

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    I have 66k miles and mine has never slipped, I'm pretty sure I'm on stock clutch too.

    FBO with BB flash full e85.
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  9. #9
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    I have 66k miles and mine has never slipped, I'm pretty sure I'm on stock clutch too.

    FBO with BB flash full e85.
    Hmm interesting. Have you driven a E9x m3 6mt by any chance? If so how would you say your clutch compares to that?
    Click here to enlarge < Click picture for photoshoot
    E90 335i xDrive 6spd, Nav, Prem, Cold Weather, & Sports package - Msport Conversion
    Mods: JB4 + MHD, Doc Race ST, Pure 6266, AD-Eng PI/Mounts, Fuel-It st. 3, Custom Exhaust, Tuned by TwistedTuning
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ovitrix Click here to enlarge
    Or just wait until you change the clutch. You said it slipped a few times before, right?
    Yea it slipped a bit after I did a few hard launches in a row but has been fine since then. Someone said that might have been due to heat?
    Click here to enlarge < Click picture for photoshoot
    E90 335i xDrive 6spd, Nav, Prem, Cold Weather, & Sports package - Msport Conversion
    Mods: JB4 + MHD, Doc Race ST, Pure 6266, AD-Eng PI/Mounts, Fuel-It st. 3, Custom Exhaust, Tuned by TwistedTuning
    More Pictures: Build Thread /// Dyno Soon to Come

  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ovitrix Click here to enlarge
    I don't think Bmw will tell you any info about the previous owner. I think you might have an act clutch with an oem dmfw. Your car puts down a lot of torque to still be on the stock clutch, and to have 61k miles. You should drive a 335 with stock clutch to see the difference.
    Yea I think flywheel is definitely OEM since it doesn't chatter. If it is in fact ACT then I would consider it a pretty good clutch considering I originally thought it was stock
    Click here to enlarge < Click picture for photoshoot
    E90 335i xDrive 6spd, Nav, Prem, Cold Weather, & Sports package - Msport Conversion
    Mods: JB4 + MHD, Doc Race ST, Pure 6266, AD-Eng PI/Mounts, Fuel-It st. 3, Custom Exhaust, Tuned by TwistedTuning
    More Pictures: Build Thread /// Dyno Soon to Come

  12. #12
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by psmith95 Click here to enlarge
    Hmm interesting. Have you driven a E9x m3 6mt by any chance? If so how would you say your clutch compares to that?
    I have, I believe the m3 is heavier by a bit. That's the reason to believe it is still stock. I would most likely bet you have some sort of clutch disc other than stock. Either ACT puck design which leads me to think that why it grabs harder than usual. HPF has a full disc so I would think it's more like OEM... Anyways my 2cents don't do anything until the clutch dies. If it holds then you're in luck.
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  13. #13
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    well peter i worked at mnc performance when your car was there. i tested drove your car and felt the clutch. i can tell you. you don't have a upgraded clutch. i have a stage 3+ & steel flywheel & my pedal is way stiffer then your pedal. when i drove your car.
    JB4 G5 iso,BB Flash Race Map,Devils Own meth kit W/DO14 nozzle & 4-AN SS lines, BMS OCC,BMS DCI, AR DP's, HPF FMIC, ER CP, Tial BOV



  14. #14
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    I have, I believe the m3 is heavier by a bit. That's the reason to believe it is still stock. I would most likely bet you have some sort of clutch disc other than stock. Either ACT puck design which leads me to think that why it grabs harder than usual. HPF has a full disc so I would think it's more like OEM... Anyways my 2cents don't do anything until the clutch dies. If it holds then you're in luck.
    Yea no plans on touching it until it goes out I was just wondering if there was somehow a way of doing it. Mine is way heavier than the m3 was which is weird
    Click here to enlarge < Click picture for photoshoot
    E90 335i xDrive 6spd, Nav, Prem, Cold Weather, & Sports package - Msport Conversion
    Mods: JB4 + MHD, Doc Race ST, Pure 6266, AD-Eng PI/Mounts, Fuel-It st. 3, Custom Exhaust, Tuned by TwistedTuning
    More Pictures: Build Thread /// Dyno Soon to Come

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by torres_335i Click here to enlarge
    well peter i worked at mnc performance when your car was there. i tested drove your car and felt the clutch. i can tell you. you don't have a upgraded clutch. i have a stage 3+ & steel flywheel & my pedal is way stiffer then your pedal. when i drove your car.
    Hey Alan thanks for the input, did it feel like stock though? It's just weird because last night it is way stiffer than a stock 335 clutch I felt confirmed by me and the owner of that car, and it's also stiffer than my friends M3. Maybe it's not as stiff as a stage 3+ but something in between?
    Last edited by psmith95; 12-05-2013 at 06:32 PM.
    Click here to enlarge < Click picture for photoshoot
    E90 335i xDrive 6spd, Nav, Prem, Cold Weather, & Sports package - Msport Conversion
    Mods: JB4 + MHD, Doc Race ST, Pure 6266, AD-Eng PI/Mounts, Fuel-It st. 3, Custom Exhaust, Tuned by TwistedTuning
    More Pictures: Build Thread /// Dyno Soon to Come

  16. #16
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    I have 66k miles and mine has never slipped, I'm pretty sure I'm on stock clutch too.

    FBO with BB flash full e85.
    I can't believe you're on stock clutch putting all that power down with no slippage. Maybe you baby your clutch Click here to enlarge))

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    OP your car puts down 483wtq on a mustang dyno, it's just hard to believe you're still on the stock clutch and it still holds.....

  18. #18
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ovitrix Click here to enlarge
    I can't believe you're on stock clutch putting all that power down with no slippage. Maybe you baby your clutch Click here to enlarge))
    I don't really baby. I just really learned how to drive a car with a lot of low end torque. Just can't get on it at all under 3k rpm. I learned first with my GTI like 5 years ago.
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ovitrix Click here to enlarge
    OP your car puts down 483wtq on a mustang dyno, it's just hard to believe you're still on the stock clutch and it still holds.....
    Yea I know that's another factor that leads me to think there is no way it can be stock. If it is in fact stock i'm surprised and wonder why my pedal feels much stiffer than other stock clutches i've driven
    Click here to enlarge < Click picture for photoshoot
    E90 335i xDrive 6spd, Nav, Prem, Cold Weather, & Sports package - Msport Conversion
    Mods: JB4 + MHD, Doc Race ST, Pure 6266, AD-Eng PI/Mounts, Fuel-It st. 3, Custom Exhaust, Tuned by TwistedTuning
    More Pictures: Build Thread /// Dyno Soon to Come

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    @fastgti69 does your car put down the same numbers like the OP? If you have the oem clutch and still holds is quite impressive, i didn't have that much luck with mine. After my act went out i put a spec 3+ and so far it takes all the abuse...
    OP the oem clutch feels light not stiff when you press down the pedal, at least that's how my oem was. The worst i had was the act, the pedal was harder and the engagement point was closer to the floor making hard to quick shift, and it didn't last.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ovitrix Click here to enlarge
    @fastgti69 does your car put down the same numbers like the OP? If you have the oem clutch and still holds is quite impressive, i didn't have that much luck with mine. After my act went out i put a spec 3+ and so far it takes all the abuse...
    OP the oem clutch feels light not stiff when you press down the pedal, at least that's how my oem was. The worst i had was the act, the pedal was harder and the engagement point was closer to the floor making hard to quick shift, and it didn't last.
    I don't think my engagement point is that harsh but its definitely not smooth like most cars oem clutches. The pedal is definitely stiff though and requires a bit of force to push down. I'm used to it now but again it's nothing like other OEM clutches i've driven. My engagement point is probably on the higher side as oppose to lower. It engages pretty close to where I have my clutch stop at with 2 washers. I PMed a few people and i'm going to see if I can somehow get the contact info of the original owner
    Click here to enlarge < Click picture for photoshoot
    E90 335i xDrive 6spd, Nav, Prem, Cold Weather, & Sports package - Msport Conversion
    Mods: JB4 + MHD, Doc Race ST, Pure 6266, AD-Eng PI/Mounts, Fuel-It st. 3, Custom Exhaust, Tuned by TwistedTuning
    More Pictures: Build Thread /// Dyno Soon to Come

  22. #22
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ovitrix Click here to enlarge
    @fastgti69 does your car put down the same numbers like the OP? If you have the oem clutch and still holds is quite impressive, i didn't have that much luck with mine. After my act went out i put a spec 3+ and so far it takes all the abuse...
    OP the oem clutch feels light not stiff when you press down the pedal, at least that's how my oem was. The worst i had was the act, the pedal was harder and the engagement point was closer to the floor making hard to quick shift, and it didn't last.
    I'm pretty sure I should be somewhere near that power level. I'll probably get dynoed in a week or two before I go single so I get some deltas.
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    The stock clutch can take a lot of power when its newer. Mine went at 70k and about 460wtq.

    The way you're describing the clutch makes it sound aftermarket, but clutch weight to different people is a toss up. To me the stock clutch was feather light and the 3+ is light too. I drive it 80 miles through traffic each day and its nothing. To others the Stage 3+ is "heavy". Neither of those compare to my 92 Ford Explorer which doesn't compare to my 5.0 in clutch weight even. So its basically a crapshoot trying to talk to people about clutch weights.

    To be honest it doesn't really matter since you're going to drive it anyway. If it is an aftermarket clutch and stronger than stock it has to be an HPF or stage 2+ or better id think.

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    Click here to enlarge

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    If you are really curious you may be able to fit a cheap borescope in the small whole where the engine/trans meet. All you need to see is the color of the pressure plate.

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