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  1. #1
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    Bimmerboost flash - Bricked ECU!

    Hey,

    I don't suppose I could get some help on this subject...

    I bought a BT cable, and used the bimmerboost flash program to flash with just a stage 1 map (boost, fuel + vanos mods from the open section here)...

    Read took about 1.25 hours as expected...

    Applied the changes using TunerPro to my original bin so the rest was left the same, did a verify on the file which came back ok.

    Then the write said it was supposed to take 15-30 minutes, but the program said 180 minutes on the first calculation.

    After erasing the memory, the windscreen wipers started going for a while until it stopped about 10 minutes in.

    Then the fuel pump started whirring about 30 minutes in...

    Waited till the end of the write, but the program crashed at the very end, but it had already said how long the write took (1 hour 45 minutes), so i presumed all was good.

    Tried to start the car, and it wouldn't start.

    Tried to connect with bimmerboost flash, nothing.

    Tried to connect with BT software, nothing....

    I'm well aware of the risks of doing this kind of thing, so not out to blame or whine, just wouldn't mind any constructive help getting the car running again! Any ideas would be much appreciated.

    Dan

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    Did you read the specific directions on what to do?

    http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showpo...15&postcount=1
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please see http://www.burgertuning.com/emissions_info.html for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    Lol all this reminds me when people first jailbreaked their ipod touches.
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    BT flash annoyed me too, so I bought a used cobb V2 to load the flash, no more problems.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Yeah I read the instructions, however in hind sight I think I see where might have been an issue I overlooked. The battery reading I recall saying 0v, which I shrugged off as just a glitch. But one of the points clearly says if it says 0v, don't proceed...

    So, any ideas on how to get it back? Will unplugging the battery and plugging back in fix it?

  6. #6
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    Any and all info is in that post. No advice exists that is not in that post.
    Burger Motorsports
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please see http://www.burgertuning.com/emissions_info.html for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dan_S Click here to enlarge
    Yeah I read the instructions, however in hind sight I think I see where might have been an issue I overlooked. The battery reading I recall saying 0v, which I shrugged off as just a glitch. But one of the points clearly says if it says 0v, don't proceed...

    So, any ideas on how to get it back? Will unplugging the battery and plugging back in fix it?
    If everything above doesn't work, try again. Then after that you can go back to stock with inpa.
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    Firstly, a write taking 180 minutes means something is wrong. It should only take 15-20 minutes or else it might not work.

    Read through the link Terry posted. Some specific failure advice I tell people based on my experience with 4 cars now, 2 of which were 2007:

    What year is your car? 2007's have two major things to be aware of- battery voltage and the computer you are flashing with. You MUST keep battery voltage up, and if you have issues flashing, it's usually the computer. AMD systems work best, but SOME intel machines work I've heard (no intel box has ever worked on mine). On 2007's many time my initial flash fails or the software locks up, so I have to unplug the battery and plug it back in and try again. Usually works fine the second time.

    If it's a newer car then you probably had bad voltage, I have had no issues with the two 2009's I've flashed (E93 and E92).

    Anyway, the best thing to do after a bad write is unplug the battery for a few minutes and then try again.

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    It's a 2009

    Tried unplugging and plugging in, waited 5 minutes with it unplugged. Still no joy. It can't even ID the ECU, so it's not even answering to basic commands. This makes me wonder if even an INPA would work? Since if it's not communicating, i'd guess that the actual communication with the ECU is bricked too, which means some kind of bench flash only, which I don't have access to.

    I think it's something to do with the voltage that was mentioned in the post. It was showing 0v in the BB flash tool. What's strange is that it read from the ECU fine, as I have the .org file, which is why I continued... What didn't work appears to be the write...

    It also seemed to erase the memory ok, as that process happened instantly, the write is what took far too long. So i'm thinking it wiped the ECU completely, and then could not write to it again, and now it's possibly a bare metal box?

    Anyone with any experience to comment would be appreciated

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    Bit more info - I had a voltmeter on the car during the whole process - turned off the lights, screen etc, and the voltage never dropped below 12.43v.

    So is benchflashing my only option now?

    Edit - I hear some people saying INPA might be able to do it, but I don't have an INPA cable yet to do this, and getting INPA working with MSD81 is a bit of a nightmare i've read?

    Also, given that BB can't even ID the thing, I highly doubt that it's going to have any luck either?

    Think I might be in a tad bit of bother here! ha Click here to enlarge

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    If using the BMS app it can do a write even if it's unable to ID the DME. Just keep writing until it works. Ensure you are writing back your original map as who knows what you were trying to upload. Also, generally slower laptops work better. So try a few different laptops as well.
    Last edited by Terry@BMS; 11-06-2013 at 09:58 PM.
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please see http://www.burgertuning.com/emissions_info.html for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    Sucks. Good luck.

    For the benefit of the group, I've flashed several cars with the BB flash using my MacBook Air running OS X Mavericks and Parallels running Windows XP. Works like a charm. Never once used a charger.

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    The chargers really most useful for the read since it takes so long IMO. I have always just used a baby 7amp thing with the fuel pump fuse out without issue lol. What's important is voltage doesn't drop low, so it kinda depends on an individuals battery in the end. An old Braille lightweight battery and an hour read probably spells failure.

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    It has the original battery, being fairly new, and I was watching the voltage all the time and didn't see it drop lower than 12.43!

    Terry, do you know what problems can come about from what is mentioned about when it doesn't display a voltage reading, as in my case?

    I'll try re-writing with the BMS software as I didn't know this one existed! Hopefully that will work, but i'm thinking that possibly there's a problem with communicating with my ECU in particular!

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    Terry, the option to write to the ECU is greyed out, even with the BMS version? how do i force a write without this button clickable?

    Clicking ID ECU just returns "Could not connect to the control module", which as I understand it would usually allow the Write ECU button to be clickable?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dan_S Click here to enlarge
    Bit more info - I had a voltmeter on the car during the whole process - turned off the lights, screen etc, and the voltage never dropped below 12.43v.

    So is benchflashing my only option now?

    Edit - I hear some people saying INPA might be able to do it, but I don't have an INPA cable yet to do this, and getting INPA working with MSD81 is a bit of a nightmare i've read?

    Also, given that BB can't even ID the thing, I highly doubt that it's going to have any luck either?

    Think I might be in a tad bit of bother here! ha Click here to enlarge
    Hi man! Firstly for repair you must use WinKFP and latest ISTA ( SP-DATEN )
    When you connect , just try to use comfort mode and update you MSD81.
    If this fail, you must read UIF from MSD81 and try to do manual Programing. Try to find local BMW service, they can do this, or find someone who have WinKFP.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Can you recommend a particular cable + software to use for this?

    I tried an INPA cable off ebay before, and it didn't work... it didn't have an option for MSD81, only MDS80!

    Know there's a lot of locations to download the different sp-daten's from, but every repository I have found so far doesnt seem to have an MSD81!

    Car's with BMW now, so we'll see what happens there... Getting ready for an absolute shafting. still wouldn't mind knowing what went wrong though =/



    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ncat10 Click here to enlarge
    Hi man! Firstly for repair you must use WinKFP and latest ISTA ( SP-DATEN )
    When you connect , just try to use comfort mode and update you MSD81.
    If this fail, you must read UIF from MSD81 and try to do manual Programing. Try to find local BMW service, they can do this, or find someone who have WinKFP.

  18. #18
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    Sounds like a laptop issue to me.
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please see http://www.burgertuning.com/emissions_info.html for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    Car has been fixed by BMW. Apparently required a "software update"... which I can only presume was done with INPA.

    ncat10, can you please elaborate on what you know about this operation, just in case anyone(and me!) gets themselves in this mess!

    Btw terry , i tried 2 different laptops to connect, one older, one newer, and neither would allow me to write to the ecu. Button was greyed out for me =/ Do you know if the BMS version definitely allows a force write without ID?? I'm not entirely sure how I do this next time (except making friends with the bmw engineer with the INPA files i need!)

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dan_S Click here to enlarge
    Car has been fixed by BMW. Apparently required a "software update"... which I can only presume was done with INPA.

    ncat10, can you please elaborate on what you know about this operation, just in case anyone(and me!) gets themselves in this mess!

    Btw terry , i tried 2 different laptops to connect, one older, one newer, and neither would allow me to write to the ecu. Button was greyed out for me =/ Do you know if the BMS version definitely allows a force write without ID?? I'm not entirely sure how I do this next time (except making friends with the bmw engineer with the INPA files i need!)
    How much did they charge you or did you get it covered under warranty?
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    I have all the right tool to do the flash right now but I'm scare to do it.... all these horrible stories I hear about people running into issues on flashing the DME.

    BT cable "check"
    15amp charger "check"
    slow laptop "check"

    sigh.....
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    advice is quit that nonsense and just use a jb4 G5 and backend flash. you will make all le power with none of the headaches.. im sure this bb flash stuff is good shyt and has its place, but unless you really know what you are getting into, dont fix whats not broken. And no offense, i know a fair share about this stuff but i wont go down this road lol. for those that like tinkering and its their hobby thats fine more power to them
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    I have my own non-bmw warranty plan which covered the work. It couldn't have taken more than an hour of their time so don't see the claim being exorbitant, but think I dodged a bullet with that one!

    My advice to anyone that wants to try this themselves - be aware of the risks! I've heard of people flashing if the voltage does read 0 fine, i've heard of people not using a battery charger etc. But if something goes wrong, this is what can happen!

    Next stage for me is get INPA working first with the MSD81 and test doing a software update... Then if it happens again, i know i can always get it back to factory

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dan_S Click here to enlarge
    Car has been fixed by BMW. Apparently required a "software update"... which I can only presume was done with INPA.

    ncat10, can you please elaborate on what you know about this operation, just in case anyone(and me!) gets themselves in this mess!

    Btw terry , i tried 2 different laptops to connect, one older, one newer, and neither would allow me to write to the ecu. Button was greyed out for me =/ Do you know if the BMS version definitely allows a force write without ID?? I'm not entirely sure how I do this next time (except making friends with the bmw engineer with the INPA files i need!)
    That sounds like a driver issue between the laptop and BT Cable, then. Did the BT cable work properly with BT software? Anyway, since you've had problems best to have someone with a known good laptop/cable combo flash it for you.
    Burger Motorsports
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please see http://www.burgertuning.com/emissions_info.html for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ak335i Click here to enlarge
    advice is quit that nonsense and just use a jb4 G5 and backend flash. you will make all le power with none of the headaches.. im sure this bb flash stuff is good shyt and has its place, but unless you really know what you are getting into, dont fix whats not broken. And no offense, i know a fair share about this stuff but i wont go down this road lol. for those that like tinkering and its their hobby thats fine more power to them
    BB flash is only a flashing app. People use it to flash the backend flash without the use of a Cobb. I've flashed my car over 20 times now without issue.

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