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  1. #1
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    Question HUGE MFING PROBLEM!!! BB Flash...

    Well tonight I finally tried to flash my car using the Jb4 backend flash, after receiving my bt cable earlier this week, and now my car wont start Click here to enlarge The solution to my problem is that I didn't use a 30-40 amp battery charger, but instead, I used a battery tender which I thought would be suffice, since it's a constant trickle and that I didn't have a strong enough charger. I thought using that would allow me to my original ecu/ write the pump or race AT flash, but it didn't. I ran the bb flash program and everything went smoothly. I didn't received any errors or anything during the write process, even while using the battery tender. So after the initial write process, which took 1 hour 45 minutes, I uploaded the pump gas flash and once everything was completed I attempted to start my car and nothing happened. So I at this point I was like wtf, it's always something Click here to enlarge. So then since that didn't work I attempted to use the race flash, in which then my head lights turned off, the panel lights all started to flash, and everything else became very dim, which I thought was part of the whole write process. So after that write, the car wouldn't start again. I went back to the BB flash program and clicked on ID ECU and the module was found but my voltage reading was on around 6v, which then became clear why nothing was working. So my questions are, can I use jumper cables to jump my car since the module is there and hopefully wait until I get full power, or would I need to do a completely new write once I get a strong enough battery charger? I still have my original bin file saved so hopefully that isn't corrupted since I didn't have to proper voltage, even though it did a complete read. Now I'm sitting here saying to myself...If it's not broken don't fix it, which is a very true statement but I've been reading about all the open source flashes and everything else so I wanted to jump on the bandwagon to try it out, but now I'm stuck in this situation. FML Click here to enlarge
    E92 Chameleon 335I/ VTT Stg 2/ EOS manifold w PI/ JB4 G5 w/ BB Flash/ BMS DCI/ BMS Cowls/ Fuel it stg 2 lpfp/ MMP Inlets and outlets/ ER CP w/ Synaspe BOV/ M2 Exhaust/VRSF DP/ ETS FMIC/ BMS OCC/ BMS Meth Kit CMGS

  2. #2
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    Get a proper charger, charge the car battery up full, rewrite the original file, start the car
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    Jumper cables should do alright, but an hour and a half for a write is waaaay too long. A full write should take around 10-15 mintues, and a partial write should take 3 minutes or so. A full read should only take around 60-70 minutes. I'd charge the battery up on the small charger for 4-5 hours then do jumper cables. I personally pull the fuel pump fuse as well.

    If this is a 2007, you will want strong voltage, and also before you initiate a write disconnect the battery for a minute then reconnect it and go about doing the write. If a full write is taking more than 10-15 minutes try other computers, it took me carting a desktop to the garage to get mine to work.

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    Ok thanks, it's an 09 and I was wondering why it took so long as well. But once I found out that the voltage had dropped then it was safe to say that was the reasoning behind it. I will try again tomorrow and hope for the best.
    E92 Chameleon 335I/ VTT Stg 2/ EOS manifold w PI/ JB4 G5 w/ BB Flash/ BMS DCI/ BMS Cowls/ Fuel it stg 2 lpfp/ MMP Inlets and outlets/ ER CP w/ Synaspe BOV/ M2 Exhaust/VRSF DP/ ETS FMIC/ BMS OCC/ BMS Meth Kit CMGS

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    Charge your battery then disconnect you battery for 5 mins. After all this
    Try again with either your charger or jumped to another car.

  6. #6
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    So all good now?
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    Did you try again? I'm about to do mine this week. I just bought a 15v battery charger just for this project. I hope I'm not going to run into any issues......
    08 535i 6MT - JB4 G5 ISO - Luke performance flash - E40 & BMS 100% Meth - AR design catless DP - ETS 5" intercooler - BMS DCI - BMS OCC - ER chargepipe - HKS BOV - K-sport coilovers - UUC evo SSK - CDV deleted - ACS spoiler - Click here to enlarge

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    I'm getting my battery out tonight to charge up and once tomorrow comes I'm going to have a friend use his jumper cables while I do a write
    E92 Chameleon 335I/ VTT Stg 2/ EOS manifold w PI/ JB4 G5 w/ BB Flash/ BMS DCI/ BMS Cowls/ Fuel it stg 2 lpfp/ MMP Inlets and outlets/ ER CP w/ Synaspe BOV/ M2 Exhaust/VRSF DP/ ETS FMIC/ BMS OCC/ BMS Meth Kit CMGS

  9. #9
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    I would say to use a 20amp charger at a minimum. That's what i set my charger at each time i've done a read and its been flawless.
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

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    Well I'm back in action, after a 15 hour battery charge Click here to enlarge but it was worth it. The car is back and running. I didn't upload a new flash or anything it still held the flash that I put on even during its low battery write, which is why it took 22 minuets. I did notice once I cranked the car up the idle was going ape sh**s, that was until I changed the settings on the jb4 and everything worked smoothly. I don't think I will be messing with any more flashes any time soon. I swear I've been sh**ting bricks the last few days thinking that my car is ruined and all of that mess.
    E92 Chameleon 335I/ VTT Stg 2/ EOS manifold w PI/ JB4 G5 w/ BB Flash/ BMS DCI/ BMS Cowls/ Fuel it stg 2 lpfp/ MMP Inlets and outlets/ ER CP w/ Synaspe BOV/ M2 Exhaust/VRSF DP/ ETS FMIC/ BMS OCC/ BMS Meth Kit CMGS

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Shadow007 Click here to enlarge
    Well I'm back in action, after a 15 hour battery charge Click here to enlarge but it was worth it. The car is back and running. I didn't upload a new flash or anything it still held the flash that I put on even during its low battery write, which is why it took 22 minuets. I did notice once I cranked the car up the idle was going ape sh**s, that was until I changed the settings on the jb4 and everything worked smoothly. I don't think I will be messing with any more flashes any time soon. I swear I've been sh**ting bricks the last few days thinking that my car is ruined and all of that mess.

    I'm glad it's working out for you now. So the whole reason behind this is because low voltage battery huh? I guess I will fully charge my battery first and then leave the charger on while doing the flash.
    08 535i 6MT - JB4 G5 ISO - Luke performance flash - E40 & BMS 100% Meth - AR design catless DP - ETS 5" intercooler - BMS DCI - BMS OCC - ER chargepipe - HKS BOV - K-sport coilovers - UUC evo SSK - CDV deleted - ACS spoiler - Click here to enlarge

  12. #12
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    There have been zero instances of fried computers. Just people who killed their battery without a charger and flashing computer compatibility issues on kline cars. Flash away now that you have a handle on things, you have now popped your open source cherry. If it was easy it would be Cobb. The good news is, it gets easier from here. Cheers.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by hkninja Click here to enlarge
    I'm glad it's working out for you now. So the whole reason behind this is because low voltage battery huh? I guess I will fully charge my battery first and then leave the charger on while doing the flash.
    Yea that was it. I put my battery on, ran up the BB program, use the ID ECU to make sure I had something and that was it.
    E92 Chameleon 335I/ VTT Stg 2/ EOS manifold w PI/ JB4 G5 w/ BB Flash/ BMS DCI/ BMS Cowls/ Fuel it stg 2 lpfp/ MMP Inlets and outlets/ ER CP w/ Synaspe BOV/ M2 Exhaust/VRSF DP/ ETS FMIC/ BMS OCC/ BMS Meth Kit CMGS

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Shadow007 Click here to enlarge
    Well I'm back in action, after a 15 hour battery charge Click here to enlarge but it was worth it. The car is back and running. I didn't upload a new flash or anything it still held the flash that I put on even during its low battery write, which is why it took 22 minuets. I did notice once I cranked the car up the idle was going ape sh**s, that was until I changed the settings on the jb4 and everything worked smoothly. I don't think I will be messing with any more flashes any time soon. I swear I've been sh**ting bricks the last few days thinking that my car is ruined and all of that mess.
    First of all I'm very happy your car is back in action.

    That said, most issues I have seen deal with batteries and voltage. Guys really need to keep an eye on this to avoid issues. You aren't going to brick your car.
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    Every time the dealer hooks up to the OBDII port they hook up a battery charger.
    They do this for a reason.
    Don't think your car won' t have to.
    It is practically rule#1 when flashing or reading out the DME if it takes over 5 minutes...
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    I would say to use a 20amp charger at a minimum. That's what i set my charger at each time i've done a read and its been flawless.
    A 2amp charger should work fine for what it is worth. Even if you put your charger on the 20 or 10amp setting it will reduce current as the battery accepts the charge. You can jump start the car with a dead battery on probably a 20-30amp charger. Like hook it up and immediately crank.

    Why anyone tries to flash without a batt charger is beyond me. They cost like $15 for a cheap one. Personally I always buy the versions that offer a 30-60amp jump start option so if I have have a dead batt I don't have to wait an 30m to crank it over.
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  17. #17
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
    A 2amp charger should work fine for what it is worth. Even if you put your charger on the 20 or 10amp setting it will reduce current as the battery accepts the charge. You can jump start the car with a dead battery on probably a 20-30amp charger. Like hook it up and immediately crank.

    Why anyone tries to flash without a batt charger is beyond me. They cost like $15 for a cheap one. Personally I always buy the versions that offer a 30-60amp jump start option so if I have have a dead batt I don't have to wait an 30m to crank it over.
    A 2 amp might be pushing it, especially with the fuel pump running. I did fine with a 6 amp with the fuel pump fuse out, but before I pulled the fuse the 6 amp was slowly losing voltage. I woudn't flash with anything less than a 10amp if you don't want to pull the fuse, at least during the long read if it's important to you to have a backup. IMO... the initial backup isn't that big of a deal. The canned BIN's work fine.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
    A 2 amp might be pushing it, especially with the fuel pump running. I did fine with a 6 amp with the fuel pump fuse out, but before I pulled the fuse the 6 amp was slowly losing voltage. I woudn't flash with anything less than a 10amp if you don't want to pull the fuse, at least during the long read if it's important to you to have a backup. IMO... the initial backup isn't that big of a deal. The canned BIN's work fine.
    I would still make a backup of the original ROM. Some ppl, including myself, had problems with cruise control when using a canned bin. Had to move the changes from the canned to a copy of my original ROM to get cruise working again.
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  19. #19
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
    A 2 amp might be pushing it, especially with the fuel pump running. I did fine with a 6 amp with the fuel pump fuse out, but before I pulled the fuse the 6 amp was slowly losing voltage. I woudn't flash with anything less than a 10amp if you don't want to pull the fuse, at least during the long read if it's important to you to have a backup. IMO... the initial backup isn't that big of a deal. The canned BIN's work fine.
    I believe you, I am just amazed it draws that much.

    I would put a warning box that has to be clicked out of in the BB flash software before the flash can start that states a 10amp charger needs to be used.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Xearom3 Click here to enlarge
    I would still make a backup of the original ROM. Some ppl, including myself, had problems with cruise control when using a canned bin. Had to move the changes from the canned to a copy of my original ROM to get cruise working again.
    You should post your BIN! I want cruise like that, and if you got it working on yours I wonder if it would work on mine... it has never worked like yours does since I bought the car!

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    PM sent. We'll see what we can do.
    -'09 135i MT - Custom 6466 ST - 680whp Click here to enlarge
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