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  1. #26
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    I know the first post sounded retarded but I was half asleep when I posted

    basically, in the next 2 years I want to get my car to the point where I can compete at the clubsprint - open level at WTAC

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    Do the current Flash + Piggy options work for N54 Single Turbos? Yea, are the best situation that provides the most amount of safety for the motor and/or maximize the power? Absolutely not.

    If you're gonna build a car to a competitive racing level, the very last thing I'd look to "cut corners" on is the car's brain. Especially when the Motec is going to offer features that are not available on the OEM DME (in addition to better tuning capabilities, greater engine protection, you've got things like boost by gear, anti-lag, advanced traction control strategy, etc etc etc).

    To each's own
    I'm holding out for the proEFI whether it succeeds or not personally.

    the motec being on a single DI BMW motor doesn't speak worlds for it's quality in this particular application, where the oem solution is well proven at least.
    boop

  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
    You need a goal. That's what you need. If you want the best at literally everything, you'll need around $40k+ if you don't have a goal. If you have a goal you may only need half that.
    i tell her that lol...

    I'm a prime example every day, with my car, that it's really not a good idea to do this (as it's exactly what i'm doing)

    heck, she doesn't even talk to me about any of these thoughts...

    400whp and M3 bits to start with i think is a reasonable goal to learn with...
    boop

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    400whp and M3 bits to start with i think is a reasonable goal to learn with...
    The M3 might be a lot better suited for what you're looking to do... 400 WHP could be easily achieved with a full exhaust & quality tune (especially if you'll be using Race Gas). The M3 comes from the factory closer to what you're looking for: higher quality suspension, LSD from the facory, and the N/A, high revving motor (no overheating). Again you might need to upgrade a certain few pieces (Big Brake, Dry Sump, etc), but you'll probably save lots of money (vs. modding a 335 to a comparable level) and still have a better platform to race with.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    I'm holding out for the proEFI whether it succeeds or not personally.the motec being on a single DI BMW motor doesn't speak worlds for it's quality in this particular application, where the oem solution is well proven at least.
    The ProEFI is definitely a quality alternative that gives you a lot more "bang for buck" vs. a Motec or Pectel. BUT ProEFI is still working on their system and Motec has something that's available.

    I'm not sure how you could even suggest that a Motec EMS running an N55 race car cannot speak volumes for the quality or success in an N55/N54 application. YES, lots of people will continue to run factory ECU tuning because it works, just like on the Supra/Porsche/GTR community that there are probably a lot more people (comparatively) running stock DME tuning vs. those running standalones.

    BUT you can bet that people two cars with the exact same setups, except 1 running a stock DME tune vs. another running a standalone EMS, that the one running an aftermarket ECU is not only are getting more power, but more power consistently and with a significantly safer setup.
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  5. #30
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Kirst Click here to enlarge
    No
    the difference is I can do the work in stages with my current car so I have enough time to save the money I need. This is the second post now you've been rude to me on, may I ask why?
    Keep your panties on. Rude? please...

    If you want the 'most powerful N54" you are going to be spending as much money for a N54 car in good condition/miles as you would an M3. How is that rude? Relax. Bad day today?
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  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by klipseracer Click here to enlarge
    Keep your panties on. Rude? please...

    If you want the 'most powerful N54" you are going to be spending as much money for a N54 car in good condition/miles as you would an M3. How is that rude? Relax. Bad day today?
    I think she misunderstood lol

    a bone stock second hand M3 in reasonable condition will run ~$80-$90k with reasonably low mileage, E92, Manual... possibly a bit more for DCT, but can be found for the same money, depending on specifics

    135i was purchased for $40k, and get down to 36-37k~ but you can get early model 335's for even slightly below $30k... that's $40-50k in mod money before you've spent over an S65 M3...
    boop

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge

    The M3 might be a lot better suited for what you're looking to do... 400 WHP could be easily achieved with a full exhaust & quality tune (especially if you'll be using Race Gas). The M3 comes from the factory closer to what you're looking for: higher quality suspension, LSD from the facory, and the N/A, high revving motor (no overheating). Again you might need to upgrade a certain few pieces (Big Brake, Dry Sump, etc), but you'll probably save lots of money (vs. modding a 335 to a comparable level) and still have a better platform to race with.
    .

    As above, the M3 is definitely the more expensive option.. unless you mean E46, which is about the $45k mark these days... but @ 100,000km...

    to match the M3's price, there's a solid $40k of spending to be done haha

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge

    The ProEFI is definitely a quality alternative that gives you a lot more "bang for buck" vs. a Motec or Pectel. BUT ProEFI is still working on their system and Motec has something that's available.

    I'm not sure how you could even suggest that a Motec EMS running an N55 race car cannot speak volumes for the quality or success in an N55/N54 application. YES, lots of people will continue to run factory ECU tuning because it works, just like on the Supra/Porsche/GTR community that there are probably a lot more people (comparatively) running stock DME tuning vs. those running standalones.

    BUT you can bet that people two cars with the exact same setups, except 1 running a stock DME tune vs. another running a standalone EMS, that the one running an aftermarket ECU is not only are getting more power, but more power consistently and with a significantly safer setup.
    most people back in the day would go some form of standalone because the stock ECU wouldn't be able to be tuned properly.. heck, it was practically one of the first mods you'd do for ease of tuning.

    if you're talking N54 vs N55... you can't really properly tune the N55, especially after 2011

    i agree that the Motec would be better than the N54's stock DME... but in all but the most ultra high end unlimited budget race build... it's probably the last thing i'd spend money on for these cars. (considering the 10-15k price tag it would cost to get set up and tuned... am i in the right ballpark?), for faster lap times, 10-15k in ANYTHING else first lol.

    there's no logical/physical reason that the cobb tuned stock/TD04 hybrid turbo N54 would make less power than same setup on a standalone.

    possibly on the single, and easier for sure, plug and play, no screwing around like has had to happen on stock DME lol... though that development is still early days, and shown massive promise anyway.

    you put fuel and air(boost) in, timing, variable timing things... and you get power

    i could be totally mistaken... but the standalone doesn't have magic other settings to generate more power?
    boop

  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    i could be totally mistaken... but the standalone doesn't have magic other settings to generate more power?
    I mean so long as the S54 passed the normal bill of health (clean oil analysis, proper cylinder compression, etc) I'd go for an E46 M3. You could easily swap in new rod bearings, beef up the suspension/sub frame, and any other "high mileage" concerns without going overboard. Plus, you've got plenty of established power mods -- From basic bolt-ons & tunes, to stroker motors or F/I options - both supercharged or turbo.

    Like I said before, because standalones give you a lot more control over the motor, you can usually get some additional, safe HP from the motor since you're no longer fighting the factory DME software. You can basically make up any fueling/boost/ignition combination you make, and not have to worry about fighting some OEM software that's fighting back because it considers the values too aggressive. Even know with COBB ATR and everything, we still do not have 100% control over the DME, we're simply modifying the factory tables (that we have access to) to values we're allowed to. Even now, I don't believe any users (only protuners) can raise the COBB's max boost above 19 psi -- maybe that's to make sure nobody tries running 25 psi on stockers, but different conversation.

    And because you get features like boost by gear, anti-lag from a dig or roll, advanced traction control, etc, you can actually put that power down.

    Look at this way:
    --Tuning off the OEM DME, you can get lots of power. But if you want to actually use that power, you completely disable TC and you get plenty of low speed wheelspin and have to feather the throttle until it hooks. If you use the DTC mode you'll prob still break the tires loose, but now you'll also get throttle blade closure, and lose all the power while the car tries to regain traction.

    With a standalone, you can program in the advanced traction control that now instead of giving wheelspin and closing the throttle, the EMS will reduce timing until the car hooks up again. Once there's traction, the EMS responds by feeding ignition back into the motor while maintaing traction.
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  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    I mean so long as the S54 passed the normal bill of health (clean oil analysis, proper cylinder compression, etc) I'd go for an E46 M3. You could easily swap in new rod bearings, beef up the suspension/sub frame, and any other "high mileage" concerns without going overboard. Plus, you've got plenty of established power mods -- From basic bolt-ons & tunes, to stroker motors or F/I options - both supercharged or turbo.

    Like I said before, because standalones give you a lot more control over the motor, you can usually get some additional, safe HP from the motor since you're no longer fighting the factory DME software. You can basically make up any fueling/boost/ignition combination you make, and not have to worry about fighting some OEM software that's fighting back because it considers the values too aggressive. Even know with COBB ATR and everything, we still do not have 100% control over the DME, we're simply modifying the factory tables (that we have access to) to values we're allowed to. Even now, I don't believe any users (only protuners) can raise the COBB's max boost above 19 psi -- maybe that's to make sure nobody tries running 25 psi on stockers, but different conversation.

    And because you get features like boost by gear, anti-lag from a dig or roll, advanced traction control, etc, you can actually put that power down.

    Look at this way:
    --Tuning off the OEM DME, you can get lots of power. But if you want to actually use that power, you completely disable TC and you get plenty of low speed wheelspin and have to feather the throttle until it hooks. If you use the DTC mode you'll prob still break the tires loose, but now you'll also get throttle blade closure, and lose all the power while the car tries to regain traction.

    With a standalone, you can program in the advanced traction control that now instead of giving wheelspin and closing the throttle, the EMS will reduce timing until the car hooks up again. Once there's traction, the EMS responds by feeding ignition back into the motor while maintaing traction.

    @ M3 vs 135i.. the M3 is about 10-15% more expensive identical condition, and the manual is actually REALLY REALLY rare over here.. a few for sale country wide at a time.

    performance wise? much of a muchness i'd think... they drive totally differently, and the M3 has the LSD and better suspension etc. factory, but it's fairly cheaply evened out

    any 'going crazy' mods leans in favour of the 135i engine wise value for money, even if the M3's engine is somewhat superior in many ways

    and fair enough on the ECU points.. i was only thinking about it from a power production standpoint... for some reason i assumed it would be LESS drivable.. i don't think i've ever seen a crazy high hp standalone car that was even remotely drivable, yet high power stock ECU cars are usually fine - boost by gear/antilag/traction control are very valid points! though i think a lot of race classes say 'no non-factory traction control' if that's your thing

    >the EMS will reduce timing until the car hooks up again.

    i thought that was what traction control does from factory? ... just minus the whole 'feeds it back on' part lol.. ok point.

    but again, it's still very far down the list on 'performance for money', unless it's a no-budget thing?
    boop

  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    @ M3 vs 135i.. the M3 is about 10-15% more expensive identical condition, and the manual is actually REALLY REALLY rare over here.. a few for sale country wide at a time.

    performance wise? much of a muchness i'd think... they drive totally differently, and the M3 has the LSD and better suspension etc. factory, but it's fairly cheaply evened out

    any 'going crazy' mods leans in favour of the 135i engine wise value for money, even if the M3's engine is somewhat superior in many ways

    and fair enough on the ECU points.. i was only thinking about it from a power production standpoint... for some reason i assumed it would be LESS drivable.. i don't think i've ever seen a crazy high hp standalone car that was even remotely drivable, yet high power stock ECU cars are usually fine - boost by gear/antilag/traction control are very valid points! though i think a lot of race classes say 'no non-factory traction control' if that's your thing

    >the EMS will reduce timing until the car hooks up again.

    i thought that was what traction control does from factory? ... just minus the whole 'feeds it back on' part lol.. ok point.

    but again, it's still very far down the list on 'performance for money', unless it's a no-budget thing?
    I wouldn't touch an SMG E46 M3, specifically because how much it would cost to repair an SMG out of warranty. The E46 M3 is definitely going to be a better, more complete platform for racing, and I'm sure after all the mods you'd need to make to a 135 it would turn out being less expensive. But the trans would be a make or break deal, unless you were going to swap a sequential gearbox (super race car Click here to enlarge) in -- At the end of the day like V8 said, it's 100% dependent on what are your planned goals with the car, how much money are you prepared to sink into the car, and how serious are you gonna take this.

    Early standalones were known for having awful drivability since they were primarily only used in race cars; throttle response was comparable to an on/off switch. The modern standalones offer significantly better drivability, and on heavily modded cars people tend to rave that the drivability is better than stock dme tuning. It's becoming a much more accepted norm that people chasing HP numbers to go standalone, most commonly Motec, ProEFI or Syvecs. Motec has been used for a while by UGR on their builds, most notable the TT Lambos because it gives them completely control over the motor & the turbo system (you're taking a very expensive V10 that was N/A from the factory and now adding two turbos, often a built motor -- running a piggy back setup or electronic boost controller is asking for problem to sneak in under the radar); ProEFI really made their name on the Supra, but recently have become an accepted name in the turbo E46 M3, 996/997 Porsche & GTR communities (IMO, best bang for buck in the EMS community and has one of the best engine protection strategies); and Syvecs is starting to become well known because Switzer is pushing their product on their 997 + GTR builds (Syvecs is much more common in Europe, being based out of the UK, but under the Switzer agreement arrived in the States this year) . AEM is trying to take back some of the entry level market with their Infinity EMS, but it's still fairly new. Motec & Pectel are probably considered the "benchmark" two, but if you trace their origins it's no surprise since since they're common race products.

    Regarding TC, it's just easier to close the throttle blade (vs. ignition adjustments) since it's easier to program universally.

    If I going to all out, full race with this car (I'm talking stripped interior, solid mounts & spherical bearings, JRZ/Ohlins suspension, etc etc), I'd shop the Motec. The brain of the car is going to be the most important feature on the car and the Motec will definitely give you performance edge and save the motor in a "worst case scenario" (all of the EMS' do this, but if a drop in oil/fuel pressure is noticed, it'll either add pressure on it's own or trigger a limp mode to save the engine).

    IF this is going to be a weekend warrior/hobby and the car will remain streetable, then a COBB ProTune will be suitable. You can still race & data log the vital data channels (timing/timing corrections/fuel pressure/ignition advance/boost; targets vs actual values), and if you see a trend that something is sub-par, shut the car down and address any issues.


    While buying an eBay N54 isn't expensive, as a race car owner I would look to avoid any unnecessary costs. If that meant spending ~$10k on an EMS that's going to do significantly more to save my motor in the long term, then so be it.
    COBB AP ProTune by Bren of ///Bren Tuning
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    "The moment money becomes your motivation, you are immediately not as good as someone who is motivated by passion and internal will." -A. Senna

  11. #36
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    I think she misunderstood lol

    a bone stock second hand M3 in reasonable condition will run ~$80-$90k with reasonably low mileage, E92, Manual... possibly a bit more for DCT, but can be found for the same money, depending on specifics

    135i was purchased for $40k, and get down to 36-37k~ but you can get early model 335's for even slightly below $30k... that's $40-50k in mod money before you've spent over an S65 M3...
    I think 90k is a bit high. either way, spending 30k on your car in mods to be the 'fastest N54' isn't out of the question. FBO + Standalone + Single turbo. Where does that put you? Without a standalone you are not putting yourself out in the different league of 'most powerful' unless its a temporary accolade.
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  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by klipseracer Click here to enlarge
    I think 90k is a bit high. either way, spending 30k on your car in mods to be the 'fastest N54' isn't out of the question. FBO + Standalone + Single turbo. Where does that put you? Without a standalone you are not putting yourself out in the different league of 'most powerful' unless its a temporary accolade.
    Australia here, high 70's (77-78)-80k is about the lower bound, without even actually inspecting for quality.

    but yeah, 30k in mods will get you far and above the performance of an M3? :/

    a basic supercharger setup+bolton's for the M3 would set you back $10k in itself, without the same performance the N54+single would get you?
    boop

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    I wouldn't touch an SMG E46 M3, specifically because how much it would cost to repair an SMG out of warranty. The E46 M3 is definitely going to be a better, more complete platform for racing, and I'm sure after all the mods you'd need to make to a 135 it would turn out being less expensive. But the trans would be a make or break deal, unless you were going to swap a sequential gearbox (super race car [IMG]file:///C:\Users\Brendan\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\0 1\clip_image001.gif[/IMG]) in -- At the end of the day like V8 said, it's 100% dependent on what are your planned goals with the car, how much money are you prepared to sink into the car, and how serious are you gonna take this.
    @ the SMG bit.. yeah 100% agreed, do not want in the least, which is such a pity, they’re so common, and cheaper.
    And yeah, $20k+ for a sequential? Mmmmm…..
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    Early standalones were known for having awful drivability since they were primarily only used in race cars; throttle response was comparable to an on/off switch. The modern standalones offer significantly better drivability, and on heavily modded cars people tend to rave that the drivability is better than stock dme tuning. It's becoming a much more accepted norm that people chasing HP numbers to go standalone, most commonly Motec, ProEFI or Syvecs. Motec has been used for a while by UGR on their builds, most notable the TT Lambos because it gives them completely control over the motor & the turbo system (you're taking a very expensive V10 that was N/A from the factory and now adding two turbos, often a built motor -- running a piggy back setup or electronic boost controller is asking for problem to sneak in under the radar); ProEFI really made their name on the Supra, but recently have become an accepted name in the turbo E46 M3, 996/997 Porsche & GTR communities (IMO, best bang for buck in the EMS community and has one of the best engine protection strategies); and Syvecs is starting to become well known because Switzer is pushing their product on their 997 + GTR builds (Syvecs is much more common in Europe, being based out of the UK, but under the Switzer agreement arrived in the States this year) . AEM is trying to take back some of the entry level market with their Infinity EMS, but it's still fairly new. Motec & Pectel are probably considered the "benchmark" two, but if you trace their origins it's no surprise since since they're common race products.
    fair enough, no debates from me that the motec isn’t the bees knees anyway. Thanks for the standalone lesson, always lots more for me to learn lol
    There’s heaps of other products in between too.. from wolf on the super low end, to megasquirt, haltech, vipec (I know a few local race cars run vipec, no idea on it’s quality though personally) etc.

    And I’d find it weird if the owners of a multiple hundred thousand dollar built 1000+++++, 1500hp+ car weren’t running $10-$20k of management hahaha
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    Regarding TC, it's just easier to close the throttle blade (vs. ignition adjustments) since it's easier to program universally.

    If I going to all out, full race with this car (I'm talking stripped interior, solid mounts & spherical bearings, JRZ/Ohlins suspension, etc etc), I'd shop the Motec. The brain of the car is going to be the most important feature on the car and the Motec will definitely give you performance edge and save the motor in a "worst case scenario" (all of the EMS' do this, but if a drop in oil/fuel pressure is noticed, it'll either add pressure on it's own or trigger a limp mode to save the engine).

    IF this is going to be a weekend warrior/hobby and the car will remain streetable, then a COBB ProTune will be suitable. You can still race & data log the vital data channels (timing/timing corrections/fuel pressure/ignition advance/boost; targets vs actual values), and if you see a trend that something is sub-par, shut the car down and address any issues.
    Ah fair enough, makes sense
    And yeah, that’s probably where my build is going to end up in a few years, something significantly un-street-friendly (or possibly even legal lol) – FWIW I live 30-45 minutes away from MCA (in my old home town), custom suspension builders that have won many many races over here, and not too expensive imo (around the 4-5k mark)


    As for her car? Probably keeping it roadworthy/streetable at least for the foreseeable future, though a single, given falling prices and ease of install on the stock DME improving, is a solid potential event haha.


    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    While buying an eBay N54 isn't expensive, as a race car owner I would look to avoid any unnecessary costs. If that meant spending ~$10k on an EMS that's going to do significantly more to save my motor in the long term, then so be it.
    True, true, excellent point… when you have a $20-$30k built motor, it becomes a bit better value if it’ll save it…
    boop

  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    Australia here, high 70's (77-78)-80k is about the lower bound, without even actually inspecting for quality.

    but yeah, 30k in mods will get you far and above the performance of an M3? :/

    a basic supercharger setup+bolton's for the M3 would set you back $10k in itself, without the same performance the N54+single would get you?
    Australia is definitely different in prices. 90k for an M3 here would be a lot. I would have to re-read the post, not that it really matters, but the goal was to have the fastest N54 or a trackable car. And the argument that someone brought up, which I don't really agree with, is that you might as well buy an M3. And to have either one, you'll be needing to borrow money quite similar money either way. We're talking maybe a 10k difference in price, thats if you don't go the whole suspension/brake/drivetrain route on the N54, and assuming you don't position yourself to hold the 'most powerful' for very long.


    http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=1

    39k miles, $34,000.... Hard top convertible. DCT. You can't be the fastest N54 in america without spending more than an M3. Period.

    http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=3

    23k miles. $36k. Hard top convertible. Manual.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by klipseracer Click here to enlarge
    Australia is definitely different in prices. 90k for an M3 here would be a lot. I would have to re-read the post, not that it really matters, but the goal was to have the fastest N54 or a trackable car. And the argument that someone brought up, which I don't really agree with, is that you might as well buy an M3. And to have either one, you'll be needing to borrow money quite similar money either way. We're talking maybe a 10k difference in price, thats if you don't go the whole suspension/brake/drivetrain route on the N54, and assuming you don't position yourself to hold the 'most powerful' for very long.


    http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=1

    39k miles, $34,000.... Hard top convertible. DCT. You can't be the fastest N54 in america without spending more than an M3. Period.

    http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=3

    23k miles. $36k. Hard top convertible. Manual.
    Haha, if we lived in america, there's a solid chance we'd both own M3's, especially at those prices.... then again, with even higher performance being available for the money potentially, .. yeah, you know haha.

    so damn affordable -_-.. really makes me sad to see how cheap they are over there.

    Then again, i worked out i could personal import an E90/E92 M3 from the UK for $35-$40k (if i remember right) landed, low miles and all.

    downside would be waiting 12 months for my sister to return with it (she's living there now), after spending all that.... totally worth it.. but i even offered it to my friends, and no one took it up!!.. could get an E91 335i for 25k i think, which is crazy, as they're super SUPER rare here, and 50k odd still.

    won't be borrowing money to do any modifications for either of us, just a gradual process.
    boop

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    For anyone interested, I popped my car on the dyno today. Cobb tune only (still waiting on parts to arrive), now, I wonder about that M3?
    Attached Images Attached Images   

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Kirst Click here to enlarge
    Cobb tune only (still waiting on parts to arrive), now, I wonder about that M3?
    Was mentioned in another thread they had trouble dyno'ing it but depending on the settings on the dyno dynamics that's about right.

    Looks like only one car with some actual serious HP there....

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Was mentioned in another thread they had trouble dyno'ing it but depending on the settings on the dyno dynamics that's about right.

    Looks like only one car with some actual serious HP there....
    Yeah from what I heard the traction control wasn't too happy beyond 2nd
    im just happy with 300 as a baseline to work from Click here to enlarge gotta start somewhere

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Was mentioned in another thread they had trouble dyno'ing it but depending on the settings on the dyno dynamics that's about right.

    Looks like only one car with some actual serious HP there....
    except for the masa gransport, 390BHP stock, put out 29 whp more than the M3 that has 24hp more at the flywheel? that's a 53hp swing in the maserati's favour!

    and yeah, wasn't a huge day there.. the G6E Falcon @ 600whp was a LITTLE surprising (not TOO hard for the average 4.0 barra turbo, no... but it didn't SOUND like 600whp, it was a true 4 door family mobile... take away the 'turbo' part of the badge, and it's full on sleeper, and i don't usually use that term lol)

    and the 539whp s14 was a fair effort... but none of the turbo V8's came out to play, or the other 900+ big guys (few other R34 GT-R's mainly lol)

    the 1100+ one is 'nitto'... Trent being the owner of mercury motorsport, where it was held haha

    and 306 for @Kirst was actually a little surprising, being 93AKI 'stage 1' tune only with some 100RON E10 added... i think as far as dynodynamics go, mercury is a 'fair' reading one.. there's a few others at other workshops that are proper heartbreakers lol

    oh and there was a full varis kitted turbosmart carbon fiber ALL THE THINGS big turbo no exhaust (half finished) R35 sitting out front that didn't run, it would have to have been 700++, given the bolt on/tune R35 did ~550 lol.
    Last edited by Flinchy; 12-07-2013 at 10:18 AM.
    boop

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    except for the masa gransport, 390BHP stock, put out 29 whp more than the M3 that has 24hp more at the flywheel? that's a 53hp swing in the maserati's favour!
    Are you sure it was a Gran Sport?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Are you sure it was a Gran Sport?
    Positive, spoke to the owner when he pulled up

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Are you sure it was a Gran Sport?
    yup... gransport badges all over it, right motor, right look, right VIN plate Click here to enlarge
    boop

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    thought you might be interested in nitto's graph

    Click here to enlarge

    2000rpm power band, zero traction on the dyno and nothing until 5000-5500rpm realistically, 8250rpm redline... o_o.. i'm guessing they know they could fit something a bit smaller and get a faster car, but as far as dyno queens go, its doing a bangup job lol.
    boop

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    Dyno curves with cliffs are fun.

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