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  1. #1
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    The 'Unsuspecting E93'

    I figure until I get my section up and running *cough*dan*cough cough* I will put this thread here...give a little inside as to what we've been up to lately. I would say this has been my most intensive project to-date.

    I met Dan about a year ago, as he was referred to my shop to have some noises checked out and some persistant issues with his 2008 335 convertible. Another shop who I will not mention had performed most of his initial upgrades...M3 suspension bits (front thrust arms, control arms, rear upper links), Helix FMIC, AR Downpipes, Hotchkis front and rear swaybars, and FK Coilovers.

    Much to the tune of a large sum of money, the car was done a few weeks later and dropped off at his house...Dan had specified a near OEM ride height...and tucking the tire in the rear, well I dont think that quite qualifies. They insisted that 'it was as high as it can go' (which it was not). So he left it be.

    A trip to the dealership a short time later for a fuel pump revealed broken axle boots in the back. Now its beyond anyone at this point why they should tear on a car this new. Since this was not under warranty he gave me a car to have it looked over and also to replace his swaybar endlinks as the balljoints had blown out of them in less than a week on the road.

    One of the first things I had noticed while up on the lift was that A) the coilovers werent set right in the rear, B) the rear swaybar was rubbing the axles and C) the front endlinks were set wrong, applying tension to each other while the car was on level ground...prematurely breaking the balljoints.

    I took to the task of tearing the axles out and rebuilding them, while installing the new front links and leaving them loose for adjustment later on the rack. the rear links were ok still, and once the car was maxed out ride height wise (still wasnt high enough), I moved it over to the alignment rack to have at it. First thing I noticed right away was that the rear swaybar was still touching the axle...Hotchkis has this odd design in the rear where the ends form a U shape instead of flat across like stock..the bottom of the U was rubbing the boot..hence tearing them up. Easily fixed...loosen the lock nuts and lengthen the endlinks up far enough to keep the swaybar from contacting the axle. The other shop claimed that the rear bar was a defective piece, a manufacturing issue, and that they had this issue on one other persons car...I dont know how that one turned out.

    I guess bolting up swaybar endlinks with one side of the car off the ground isnt the greatest idea right??

    With the rear end issues solved, We moved to the front. Set the endlinks up properly with no tension from left to right with the car on a level surface(how it is supposed to be done for all those that dont know), and set the alignment up. Once finished the car drove a LOT better...not the best but it was a good start. Most of the noises had also subsided at this time.

    About 2 weeks later I recieved a call from him saying the rear was starting to make a clunking noise again..it had come and gone since he had the coilovers installed. Back in the shop once more to investigate, I found that the right rear top bushing on the shock was..well simply put, not there. There was a generic nut, and a huge curved washer that was upside down, and the hole was too large for the shock shaft..the shock was moving around from the forces being acted upon it. Zipped the nut off really quick, pulled the washer off, and realized it was the front washer that goes inbetween the top hat and the upper spring cap in the front spring/strut assembly. If you have ever pulled apart the suspension before, you know that this washer allows the shock assembly to turn freely left and right when the wheel is turned.

    Peering down in the hole, I find that the bottom bushing is beat up, the metal sleeve that is supposed to support the shock shaft through the body is missing. A piece of rubber hose has been cut off and wedged into the hole...somewhat forming a 'bushing'. I was pretty pissed at this point. A new upper bushing w/nut and washer and a lower bushing costs $20 at the dealer....why would someone go through all this trouble of hacking together this bull$#@!?

    I disassemble the front end, find the right front strut missing the said curved washer...it being on the back shock obviously wasnt helping. Put everything back together the RIGHT way, and find all the noises in the car have vanished. At this point Dan had posted up the pictures and threatened the other shop with, well I'll avoid that subject lol.

    I usually dont condemn a shop but when you take something apart and put it back together all wrong, well you shouldnt be working on cars. Then when you put the blame on ME saying I rigged up this to make them look bad or that the dealership did this, well...again I'll leave the colorful words out. Members here have been a victim of them, so some know how I feel.

    Fast forward a year to August 2010. Much hype had gone on with the release of the EPL turbos. Dan managed to pick up a set and I got the lucky task of installing these babies. 12 hours later ( I will never do that again straight through LOL) the car was up and running, no leaks or anything...other than trying to mend his heat shield on the frame due to a botched DP install from a year ago that over time caused the rear turbo downpipe to rub a hole in the shield and start taking aluminum out of the subframe.

    Take the car out for a spin that night to see how it goes, tire pressure light pops on right before the exit to my house..manage to make it off the highway and I hear the left rear tire hissing bad. Make it to the gas station, fill it up (had 0 psi at that point) and try to make it 2 blocks to the house. Halfway down the first block I hear a pop and the car droops...the tire had separated the inner sidewall. These were brand new Toyo R888s..1500 miles on them, MAYBE.

    Too much camber in the rear (2.6+) had eaten the inside of the tires up. Due to the extra weight of the convertible and the fact the coilovers were not designed for an E93, we had to sacrifice tires to get a proper toe setting in the rear. After much discussion, we decided to put the plans for the Quaife on hold and concentrate on somehow getting the suspension straightened out. We broke an axle (actually both) in the car shortly afterwards, so while it was at the dealer I took to the task of seeing what we could do to fix the problems.

    Enter Harold@ HPAutowerks Click here to enlarge

    After much discussion and endless nights of PMing, we decided to take a big step. Finish off the M3 conversion by adding the lower rear camber links. 600lb spring rate in the front, and an astronomical 900lb rate in the rear. With the vert weighing in at close to 4000lbs, we needed springs and shocks that would be up to the task of keeping the black side down and not be low..in fact, be as close to stock ride height as possible. Koni Yellow struts wouldnt work with this setup...even turned up full stiff they do not have enough in them to keep the high spring rates at bay. Not to mention the flimsy subframe bushings wouldnt keep the rear from floating around...M3 bushings were a must in this situation.

    We settled on Koni Double Adjustable Struts, 335 front struts and M3 rear struts. We had gotten lucky, HPA had managed to get a set in from Koni, fronts were freshly rebuilt and the rears were new. These shocks are on back order indefinetly as they share the same layout as the E36/46 M3 and are used in the club racing circuit. Not wanting to waste time, we bought them immediatley to avoid sitting around for another 8 months with no suspension to choose from.

    Dan had also mentioned that the rear of his car started feeling 'funny' after the new axle was installed. He took a look under the car and sent me a picture of the left rear subframe bolt hanging halfway out of its spot Click here to enlarge. Being all the way in NJ and no way to tow it to the shop, he took a chance and drove it to the shop. By then the bolt was gone (it had snapped and was actually sitting in his driveway), so I ended up using a bolt extractor and getting the remaining bolt threads out with little issue. While it was up in the air I noticed the right rear subframe bolt had started to come loose as well, and the vibration and excessive movement of the subframe assembly had caused the right front bushing to start to pull out of its location in the subframe. I called my friend to confirm he didnt touch it when he replaced the axle on the car (who takes a subframe down to remove an axle anyway lol), and it dawned on me...the only time you take a subframe down is when you do a rear swaybar. It took a year, but IMO subframe bolts should NEVER come loose at all whether you do a rear swaybar or not. This got me quite irked (and its not even my car) at the fact that a shop could do such shoddy work.

    The M3 bushings went in with little issue. Just got the subframe into the car yesterday and got it all bolted back together, did some short road testing to make some adjustments to the shocks, and here it sits. The M3 bushings make a remarkable difference in the way it feels, the rear is much more solid now without the little creaks and pops that it used to make. I set the car up to sit a little higher than stock ride height of a vert, it now looks pretty similar to an E92 w/sport package (but handles like its on rails). Tomorrow it will get an alignment first thing in the morning, a trans flush, a new set of plugs and hopefully next week it will put down some good power on the dyno Click here to enlarge

    Pictures should be up by tomorrow evening...been digging through the computer and the phone and trying to assemble them all.

    I know its a bit long winded, but with the journey this car has taken I feel that everyone here should know what this car has been through and all blood and sweat and endless cursing that it took to bring it to where it is now. We are more or less finished with it for this year...next year the LCI upgrades will commence (new front bumper, headlights and hood, and rear LCI tailights) as well as the Quaife, and perhaps brakes....need something to stop all this weight now Click here to enlarge

  2. #2
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    Sounds intense, and yes, waiting on Dan Click here to enlarge and the pictures. I'll check it out tomorrow.
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  3. #3
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    Im glad someone close to me has a similar setup, and the drive to actually use the car, and mods as designed. Paired with a shop/guy that is fully capable to do th work, whether it be install, modifying, or troubleshooting and correcting. If you were closer, i would be up there all the time.. maybe ill plan a day trip..

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    lol...can you believe Im just now seeing this thread...lol....but yea...much props to Matt aka Boopie for really bringing this car to where it is now...definately couldnt have done it without him....if I were still with the other shop, chances are I would be driving a c63 right now.....the car still has a ways to go but so far so good....we are making strides in the right direction
    Last edited by ultimateendz; 09-24-2010 at 01:37 PM.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    Im glad someone close to me has a similar setup, and the drive to actually use the car, and mods as designed. Paired with a shop/guy that is fully capable to do th work, whether it be install, modifying, or troubleshooting and correcting. If you were closer, i would be up there all the time.. maybe ill plan a day trip..
    lol...similar setup with alot more weight...lol

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    Here are some pics of the car during its stint
    Attached Images Attached Images             

  7. #7
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    well sir, that is a $#@!ing sleeper now isnt it!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    well sir, that is a $#@!ing sleeper now isnt it!
    yup...now for more power mods Click here to enlarge


    Is it fast or isnt it? Click here to enlarge My coworker has an 07 stock GTO and said he will blow the doors off me....i said ok...care to make a wager of $100 it doesnt turn out that way? Thats gonna be the eaisiest $100 ill ever make Click here to enlarge

  9. #9
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    Damn that is nuts. I just read the entire post. So any numbers?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DarkPhantom Click here to enlarge
    Damn that is nuts. I just read the entire post. So any numbers?
    yea man....now just imagine actually going through it...my car put down 346hp/366tq on EPLs mustang dyno @ 15.5 psi...ill be back on the dyno next thurs for the upgraded turbo numbers

  11. #11
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    im betting 421 hp @ 20 psi/meth

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    im betting 421 hp @ 20 psi/meth
    so i guess on a dynojet that would translate out into (421*.12)+421= ~471hp on a dynojet

  13. #13
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    Pm me the name of the other shop so that I can avoid them

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by disruptv Click here to enlarge
    Pm me the name of the other shop so that I can avoid them
    Don't have to PM you since I'm not a vendor...it's AK Motorwerk in Hillsbourough NJ...Alex and Kevin both think this is over but it's not.

  15. #15
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    wow what a story thanks for sharing!
    Sick sleeper you got there

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alpinedevil335 Click here to enlarge
    wow what a story thanks for sharing!
    Sick sleeper you got there
    Thanks....it's a work in progress

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ultimateendz Click here to enlarge
    so i guess on a dynojet that would translate out into (421*.12)+421= ~471hp on a dynojet
    doesnt always work like that, mustangs are much more difficult to compare across the board.. especially a AWD to FWD/RWD nly mustang.. and then to a DJ..

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    doesnt always work like that, mustangs are much more difficult to compare across the board.. especially a AWD to FWD/RWD nly mustang.. and then to a DJ..
    ok cool then...o wellit doesnt really matter this time as im just doing some pump runs...lets see how much better the turbos are than stock...

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    while your there might as well get some race fuel and seee what 20 psi does

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    while your there might as well get some race fuel and seee what 20 psi does
    tru...if not i may take some racegas with me to the cpe dyno day and do it there....

  21. #21
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    Should be fun. Wish I could get more bimmer owners to buy race gas. Buying in bulk means savings for everyone.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ultimateendz Click here to enlarge
    yup...now for more power mods Click here to enlarge


    Is it fast or isnt it? Click here to enlarge My coworker has an 07 stock GTO and said he will blow the doors off me....i said ok...care to make a wager of $100 it doesnt turn out that way? Thats gonna be the eaisiest $100 ill ever make Click here to enlarge

    stock GTO runs high 12.7-12.9 @ 107-111 i believe.. nothing to worry about.. i wish the gto owners around here would make a wager like that against me.. id have some free$$ to play with all the time..

  23. #23
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    doesnt always work like that, mustangs are much more difficult to compare across the board.. especially a AWD to FWD/RWD nly mustang.. and then to a DJ..
    Absolutely, it is isn't a constant, there is great variance.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Absolutely, it is isn't a constant, there is great variance.
    Gotcha...u guys gotta school me on this stuff....I'm just learning about these variances and timing curves and $#@!...I just fund the car....lol...and drive it like I stole it Click here to enlarge

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