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  1. #51
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    Said this to the last guy, and I will recommend to you, check every single fuse under the dash, I pulled my hair out for 3 days, it was a blown DME fuse, they have more than one.
    Which is the DME fuse bud?

  2. #52
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by firstbmwla Click here to enlarge
    Here is the video:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5GFOcshbf8

    Just got through pulling every last fuse in glovebox. All seem fine
    Did you come right, got same issue?

  3. #53
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by EdZ Click here to enlarge
    Which is the DME fuse bud?
    I hope somebody can help you locate it...

  4. #54
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by EdZ Click here to enlarge
    Which is the DME fuse bud?
    There is like 7 of them if I remember correctly and fuse position varies by year and model. You just have to get your little fuse guide out of the glove back and check them all.

  5. #55
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    Thanks but did check all fuses, just thought you meant there was a specific ecu fuse in the engine bay etc.

  6. #56
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by EdZ Click here to enlarge
    Thanks but did check all fuses, just thought you meant there was a specific ecu fuse in the engine bay etc.
    Replace the relay. Not a fuse, there is a relay in the fuse panel, fairly in expensive, if that doesn't fix it there is also a relay in the ecu box, but off the top of my head your codes indicate the one in the fuse panel. RELAY not fuse
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  7. #57
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    No relay in ECU compartment on my 1M. Only 1 x BIG 50 amp orange fuse and it's ok. Car at stealer will advise ASAP.

  8. #58
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    Car still at BMW and they coding a new ecu, so let's see if its that?!

  9. #59
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    This has happened to me a couple of times before. It happened after I was playing around with the BT tool and got carried away with resetting various adaptions. A couple of times I would start the car and it responded this way. Also, if I put it in D, the car would keep lunging forward. Basically not drivable. I found the best way to overcome this would be turn off the car, delete all of the codes, restart car, turn off and delete again. If you have a JB4, leave on auto code clearing. Sometimes, leave the car sit for 15-30 minutes then try it. I never bought any new parts and managed to fix it each time. Hope this helps.
    Last edited by BMW86; 04-12-2014 at 02:21 AM.

  10. #60
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    Car still at BMW, replaced ecu, mad and key and car does the same thing.

  11. #61
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    Car sorted!!! DME replaced and the fuse holder behind glove compartment houses the power distribution relays inside of it which you can't get to unless you strip out half the car. So it was a power spike from the live wire touching the ecu when the tuners were busy with the JB4.

  12. #62
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    I bet I could have fixed the DME. The drivers die in it, and we've had good luck finding/sourcing and repairing them.
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  13. #63
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    This is Africa! Lol

  14. #64
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by EdZ Click here to enlarge
    This is Africa! Lol
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  15. #65
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    I went out to start my car yesterday to go get some wine for a diner party at my neighbor's house. I fired it up and the idle was oscillating between about 800 and 1400 rpm. The pedal was unresponsive and the car was undriveable, but don't worry I had emergency wine downstairs.

    I took the following log this morning

    http://datazap.me/u/ajm8127/idle-osc...og=0&data=3-16

    The following codes were present

    • 2f9e - Thermic Oil Level Sensor
    • 2cec - throttle positioner, stuck for an intermediate time
    • 2ced - throttle positioner, permanently stuck
    • 2d09 - Throttle valve
    • 2cee - throttle positioner, sluggish
    • 2cfe - throttle valve, continuous adaptation
    • 2cfb - throttle valve adaptation value


    The oil level sensor code I believe to be unrelated. I was parked on a hill about a week ago and the "oil low" indicator popped up in the cluster. I confirmed my oil level was not low once the car was on level ground.

    I reset throttle adaptations which had no effect. I checked all the fuses behind the glove box and all were good. I stumbled across SI B12 01 08 from 2008 titled "N52 EDK Throttle Jamming Faults 2D09, 2CED and 2CEC":
    SITUATION
    Immediately after starting the engine, the Service Engine Soon lamp is illuminated and the engine enters power reduction ("fail-safe") mode. The EDK (throttle) has failed the start-up test due to binding or jamming. In these specific cases, the vehicle may have been parked for an extended period of time in a freezing climate.

    It was about 10 F during the day here yesterday.

    I have INPA on my laptop so I took it out to the car and tried to move the throttle plate with the software. The two encoders which provide feedback on the position of the plate did not change value. Looks like the plate was stuck.

    To confirm I removed the throttle body and sure enough ice was present in the throttle body and charge pipe.

    I cleaned everything up and let it thaw out. I plugged the throttle body back in and I was now able to move the plate with INPA and the encoders were changing value like they should. I put it back together and the car idles and drives normally with no codes.

    I decided to take everything apart to confirm the plate was stuck due to ice. I also disconnected the battery for about 2 hours while I was doing to work. I probably could have lightly tapped the throttle body with a hammer to loosen the ice. I am not sure if disconnecting the battery helped by resetting the DME once the plate was freed.

    I can only assume the cold weather caused water vapor from blow by to condense in the intake tract and then freeze. I just wish it wasn't $#@!ing 19 F outside today.

    Eppur si muove.

  16. #66
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  17. #67
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    Did you try this to reset the throttle adaption.

    1. Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.
    2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter turns over. BMW: press start button – foot off brake - all idiot lights on.
    3. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position. BMW: All idiot lights on.
    4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back to the "off position". BMW: foot off brake press start button - all idiot lights now off (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
    5. Wait a full 2 minutes for a full electronic alignment. Don't remove the key.
    6. Start engine, drive the car, notice the difference.

    If it is an electronic throttle issue then this will at least reset it. I have tried to reset the throttle adaption in the past using the BT Cable and MHD and this was the only process that worked.

  18. #68
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamboworld Click here to enlarge
    Did you try this to reset the throttle adaption.

    1. Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.
    2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter turns over. BMW: press start button – foot off brake - all idiot lights on.
    3. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position. BMW: All idiot lights on.
    4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back to the "off position". BMW: foot off brake press start button - all idiot lights now off (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
    5. Wait a full 2 minutes for a full electronic alignment. Don't remove the key.
    6. Start engine, drive the car, notice the difference.

    If it is an electronic throttle issue then this will at least reset it. I have tried to reset the throttle adaption in the past using the BT Cable and MHD and this was the only process that worked.
    it was a relay/corrosion for the original issue
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