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  1. #1
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    Calling N54 Gurus. No solution so far.

    Just got done writing a damn novel of the issue. hit F5 on accident and my entire novel disappeared. WTF.
    grr.. anyways....
    Long story short.
    this is car belongs to a good friend of mine, we have been running around this issue all month..with no dice.
    Car started throwing codes related to vanos, cam, and crank

    Replaced:
    -crank sensors
    -both cam sensors
    -both vanos solenoids
    -fuel regulator
    -checked walboro hole in the line replaced.
    -replaced fuel regulator (just cuz)
    -replaced HPFP (just cuz)
    -replaced a relay in ECU box because of dme electronics fault or something like that (cant remember)

    -we replaced the DME/cas/key fob. still nothin.
    -LP fuel sensor was replaced when i cleaned his intake valves.

    at this point I think its vanos spring failure on the cam..
    Another tech thinks its Cam bearing ledge.
    Another thinks it jumped timing and needs a retime.

    Idk.... suggestions are appreciated. i wrote out all out suggestions and theories in the other novel but my damn finger hit F5 instead of turning brightness down Click here to enlarge

    here is a short video of what car is doing.
    sorry for vertical video..



    Codes its throwing. i believe some abs codes are present but that is from the low battery i think.. It just pooped up lol

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  2. #2
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    you have the frit dme


    need to replace or repair
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  3. #3
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by carcars Click here to enlarge
    you have the frit dme


    need to replace or repair
    we did replace the dme... we also, checked all the chips inside it, mainly the MOSfet chips that always fail. I'm telling ya we tried everything electrical.. its gotta be mechanical......

    unless we missed something obvious but i doubt it...
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    sounds like what happens when you reset throttle adaptations. a few restarts would clesr that up normally, maybe the noise is more pronounced with the engine cover off?

    but since you replaced all those parts already nothing wrong with doing the bearing ledges as well, especially since if the car threw chronic vanos codes the ledges could have seen excessive wear.

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    FWIW my car had that weird idle unresponsive to pedal input when I had a coding error with my DSC module. The difference being mind went away with a restart (until the next time). It happened when I used one of the old "mygenius" flashers for the N54. Problem solved by cobb, which overwrites more I guess. I still get a stored DSC coding error when I uninstall the cobb.

  6. #6
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by sammy_0559 Click here to enlarge
    we did replace the dme... we also, checked all the chips inside it, mainly the MOSfet chips that always fail. I'm telling ya we tried everything electrical.. its gotta be mechanical......

    unless we missed something obvious but i doubt it...
    you change all the coils and codified the dme?


    your car sounds the same to mine when cold the dme and 3 reels ...
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  7. #7
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    My car did this too when i reset adaptations with the Procede , usually it went away after a few restarts.

  8. #8
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    My old car did that same thing when I got a piece of Al debris from the cp-e charge pipe in the intake manifold. Swapped the throttle body and cleaned everything but it was still doing that. We unplugged the TMAP sensor in the intake manifold while the car was running. Plugged it back in and restarted and the car was fine. Your situation sounds hella more complex but even if you've gotten everything to work, that damn sensor will cause that weird idle oscillation. It'd be worth your time to try that.

  9. #9
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    Can you better describe exactly what it's doing? I see the video but a description of the issue, when it started, and how the parts have changed the situation would be useful rather than just a parts list and movie of a motor with a bad idle. Focus the description primarily on the initial problem and the circumstances/codes it presented so you can get some fresh opinions on the original issue.

    That being said maybe check/re-do the coding and monitor what's going on, make sure the throttle is working right, MAP sensor is working right, no vacuum leaks etc. I really can't help much more than really general speculation when you don't mention the issue :-/

    I'm sorry man, for your problem it sounds like you should write that novel again if you want any real help. I'll also add that sometimes new parts are defective out of the box. It's rare, but it has happened to me more than you might expect, so don't always assume it's new so it must be good. Especially if you're not using OE parts for things like the crank sensor.
    Last edited by V8Bait; 10-12-2013 at 11:10 AM.

  10. #10
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    Have you checked every fuse? Mine has done this twice and it was a fuse that blew in the panel behind the glove box. I think some models have some fuses in the dme area also dependant on what year.

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    I hate to agree with the above because it means you wasted a lot of money and time on parts, but we had a test car do this exact thing. When swapping the clutch the wire that runs from the tranny to the DME got pinched and grounded it. In turn it popped a DME fuse, there are a few of them you have to check them all, I forget who suggested it but they said check them and it low and behold it was a fuse, ONE fuse threw all those codes, instant limp, same idle, etc. You never start throwing that many parts at something until you check the easy things. Swapped it out, car fired and was perfect.

  12. #12
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    I was about to take it in to a dealer and finally found it and the second time my meth pump went bad and it blew the inline and a fuse in the fuse box. Sucks like tony said but I was about to go through the same thing when I decided to pull every fuse and check them one at a time until I found it. Take a pic of the fuse box beforehand so you have a reference when putting them back in.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    my car did exactly what your car is doing (oscillation) when i did couple unsuccessful BB flashes. Even when I flash it the original BIN file it did not go back to normal till i flashed it with fresh stock updated file via winkfp.

  14. #14
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    Thats a throttle emergency mode. You need fault descriptions on those faults for me to help.
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  15. #15
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    ...

    Scenario: Car was intermittently missing at high rpm.. Occasionally cutting out and triggering cylinder injection shutdown. Car would run rough until cycling the ignition until three weeks ago. I Was hitting the freeway onramp and saw opportunity to open things up. I went WOT at mid 2nd gear, transitioned to 3rd and was expecting to find 4th gear, when the car stumbled, illuminated the check engine and signaled reduced power (half engine limp) and finally lost power. Shifting into neutral and cycling the ignition was then unsuccessful. I coasted off the highway and began to troubleshoot.


    Nearly three weeks later, chasing codes.. Swapping parts to this point, I have ruled out:


    Throttle body
    TMAP sensor
    DME and CAS
    LPFP


    New parts installed:
    DME relay
    Fuel pressure regulator and filter
    Crank position sensor
    HPFP
    Both CAM position sensors
    Both VANOS solenoids
    Six spark plugs
    Six fuel injectors


    Initial point of failure was likely the submersible fuel injection hose from the Walboro 455. The line was perforated about three inches from the pump, at what I figure to be the apex of the radius of the hose, where it bends to meet the feed line to the in-tank, pressure regulator and filter.


    Additionally, the plugs were heavily fouled and the injectors were all equally covered in a viscous, oily residue.
    Which may have been deposited as a result of troubleshooting when break cleaner was liberally sprayed into the intake manifold, while the motor was running but surging badly. When the spray was introduced, the motor quickly smoothed out and nearly idled fine, until the spray was stopped. This was thought to support the theory of a fueling issue, more specifically the idea that injectors has somehow become clogged or contaminated by the high alcohol content of the E85 they were exposed to over the last year and half. The tank was almost always filled with E85, occasionally some 93 octane, but only when necessary.


    Current mods, presently installed:


    Charles's down pipes
    Dual exhaust
    Low temp oil thermostat
    FMIC
    Charge pipe/BOV
    External oil cooler
    RB turbos
    DME with stock software/map
    Alpina TCU software.


    Coolant and oil/filter were changed about 5.5k miles ago, followed with the transmission fluid, filter and torque converter about 500 miles later.


    I welcome any and all , comments or suggestions.


    Thank you very much , in advance for your consideration and any feedback that might be offered.


    Everyone involved is stumped and tired of this headache.


    Best regards,
    Dan
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  16. #16
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    Thats a throttle emergency mode. You need fault descriptions on those faults for me to help.
    Will get you fault descriptions as soon as I get to the shop tomorrow
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  17. #17
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    Check fuses, check coils (easy way is un plug them while the car is running one at a time to kill cylinders, it should make things worse... if it doesn't, you have a bad one). Before coils fail they occasionally exhibit high rpm and/or contribute to misses at load, and fail under high rpm very commonly. Check all wiring on top of the engine, it's common to pinch wires when changing plugs, having the intake off etc... also check vacuum lines up there for the same reason. All that's free and quick.

    Any idea what codes would cause those high rpm limp modes, were they different codes than now? Was this tuned with a flash or with a piggyback? If you have the ability with a scanner, make sure all the sensor readings look sensible and fuel trims are similar bank to bank, throttle position etc are all in line.

  18. #18
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    listen- there is a BUNCH of pissed away money, and a LOT of wasted time trying to "diagnose" this, if you don't know how to diagnose it in the first place.

    That video if it blurping up and down is an electronic failsafe from the throttle.
    you can hear the engine runs ok during the blurp, but is chopped by the throttle and the cycle starts again.
    all the injectors hit (you can hear them, and the engine respond to it)......

    replacing coils/dme/plugs/injectors/vanos solenoids/etc is just a HUGE waste of money.
    It needs to be diagnosed with a systematic approach. no vacuum leak or other silly things like that is going to cause it to do this.
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  19. #19
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    Watched the video since I hadn't really before. Wtf is the throttle doing? Alex is absolutely right about you needing to be systematic and not just replace parts, when you do that you just introduce more error and question into what's going on. Especially with things like the DME. My suggestions are just general tips for misfires that don't rely on you throwing parts at it. My reasoning behind vacuum leaks is due to their experience with the brake cleaner smoothing things out, but whatever you do OP stop throwing parts at it until you know what's going on.

  20. #20
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    listen- there is a BUNCH of pissed away money, and a LOT of wasted time trying to "diagnose" this, if you don't know how to diagnose it in the first place.

    That video if it blurping up and down is an electronic failsafe from the throttle.
    you can hear the engine runs ok during the blurp, but is chopped by the throttle and the cycle starts again.
    all the injectors hit (you can hear them, and the engine respond to it)......

    replacing coils/dme/plugs/injectors/vanos solenoids/etc is just a HUGE waste of money.
    It needs to be diagnosed with a systematic approach. no vacuum leak or other silly things like that is going to cause it to do this.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
    Watched the video since I hadn't really before. Wtf is the throttle doing? Alex is absolutely right about you needing to be systematic and not just replace parts, when you do that you just introduce more error and question into what's going on. Especially with things like the DME. My suggestions are just general tips for misfires that don't rely on you throwing parts at it. My reasoning behind vacuum leaks is due to their experience with the brake cleaner smoothing things out, but whatever you do OP stop throwing parts at it until you know what's going on.
    Im not the one throwing parts at it.... i diagnosed it over texting he sent me the codes.... i told him what it needed (vanos and crank codes at the time...). helped replace the parts and went home. car is not at my shop. They guy had no problem replacing the parts he said he was going to replace everything in the fuel system anyways. idc. I'm just helping the guy out. labor ..no one was paid for labor.. fueling parts were already on hand. sensors were replaced because of codes.

    they day i recorded this is the day heard it idle...... It wasn't the classic rough Idle. hence why i posted it never seen something like this.. he always explained to me it was a rough idle. and the car was always torn apart when i showed up to work on it. I'm usually always on a time crunch and show up to help between my work and school.

    Alex you said you needed the fault descriptions? will post here as soon as i get them.

    Whats done is done. parts have been replaced.. nothing i or we can do about it. lets move forward with diagnosing.
    If i had actually saw it idle before all the parts were replaced i would've made the same thread. minus the theories. and part replacement list.

    EDIT: fuses were checked. 100 parts ago.. lol
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  21. #21
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    I always love this:

    "hold the phone closer so i can diagnose it" Click here to enlarge


    clear the faults, try and/or get it to run, post codes with descriptions.
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  22. #22
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    I always love this:

    "hold the phone closer so i can diagnose it" Click here to enlarge


    clear the faults, try and/or get it to run, post codes with descriptions.
    LOL will do... yeah i know. just wanted to make sure everyone can hear the motor.

    When cleared i believe... all the same codes come back...

    I will try to make it out there today... if not ill have him send me everything. and will post back here.
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I have seen this one before, it happens when adaptions are incorrectly reset, like the throttle adaptions reset while the car is idling... Get yourself a bt cable and work systematically without just replacing everything that you can think of.

    edit. Just watched the video again and the abs lights up on the dash as the dsc adaptions(probably with inpa) also have been reset and the car hasn't been driven for the sensors to reset itself.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Any further progress on this car? Let us know how it turned out.

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    When i swap AT to DCT i have about 60 fault codes and spent 3 months to fix all it Click here to enlarge Good luck!

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