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  1. #1
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    I hate this car sometimes...

    Hey there BB, long time no see,


    I have been having nothing but issues with my car lately and tonight it has gotten to the point where I really need to start fixing them and seeking help from others. The errors and problems and stats:

    Car:
    2007 BMW 335i N54 6MT
    41K miles, oil changed 5k ago
    Mods:
    Procede Rev2.5
    AA 3" Catless DPs (installed myself)
    93 Octane Aggressive Tune running 93 Octane Shell V-Power fuel

    -wastegate rattle when backing off throttle (ill rev the engine, take foot off gas, and the wastegates will rattle as the RPMs fall back to 500)
    -wastegate rattle while driving. Slight rattle from 1k to 3k and it usually goes away in the upper ranges
    -CC-ID 29 and yellow half-engine light after several WOT pulls, no engine stutter
    -car feels slow as $#@!, as per usual for the last month or two
    -CC-ID 29 and wastegate rattle occurs on both the stock tune (map 0) and map 1, however the rattle is worse on map 1
    -ive had one or two long-crank starts in the last month or two. Hasnt been a problem lately though.

    Ill try to get logs ASAP but im going to NYC this weekend and doubt i can do it before then. Could be a little while Click here to enlarge Ill try after work tomorrow.

    What do you suspect is going wrong and how should i fix it? Ive really started to hate this car, it rattles worse than a damn Civic and is jerky/slow at best...... Click here to enlarge

    -Eric




    PS- @E90SoFlo which dealership should I use around this area if it comes to that?
    Click here to enlarge

  2. #2
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    Hello Eric.

    If it makes you feel any better, I hate my car too sometimes. There's always someone else out there though having worse troubles with their car or them taking longer (or more $) to resolve.

    You could spend forever chasing rattles. Best place to start I would guess would be tightening things down.

  3. #3
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eric335 Click here to enlarge
    Hey there BB, long time no see,


    I have been having nothing but issues with my car lately and tonight it has gotten to the point where I really need to start fixing them and seeking help from others. The errors and problems and stats:

    Car:
    2007 BMW 335i N54 6MT
    41K miles, oil changed 5k ago
    Mods:
    Procede Rev2.5
    AA 3" Catless DPs (installed myself)
    93 Octane Aggressive Tune running 93 Octane Shell V-Power fuel

    -wastegate rattle when backing off throttle (ill rev the engine, take foot off gas, and the wastegates will rattle as the RPMs fall back to 500)
    -wastegate rattle while driving. Slight rattle from 1k to 3k and it usually goes away in the upper ranges
    -CC-ID 29 and yellow half-engine light after several WOT pulls, no engine stutter
    -car feels slow as $#@!, as per usual for the last month or two
    -CC-ID 29 and wastegate rattle occurs on both the stock tune (map 0) and map 1, however the rattle is worse on map 1
    -ive had one or two long-crank starts in the last month or two. Hasnt been a problem lately though.

    Ill try to get logs ASAP but im going to NYC this weekend and doubt i can do it before then. Could be a little while Click here to enlarge Ill try after work tomorrow.

    What do you suspect is going wrong and how should i fix it? Ive really started to hate this car, it rattles worse than a damn Civic and is jerky/slow at best...... Click here to enlarge

    -Eric

    PS- @E90SoFlo which dealership should I use around this area if it comes to that?
    Eric ill text you.

    But let me write this out here first. I work on my car myself or If its something I am unable to do I have a local euro shop do these things (ill text you the info), I am out of warranty so I do not use a dealer.

    Waste gate rattle is expected and nothing you can do about it, all of the dealers I have taken my car too, requesting a warranty/defective part or even a recall have declined my request in SW Florida. You have two option here, first is go to the dealerships in the area and request to speak with a Service advisor, request they change your turbo's under warranty as a defective part or recall, try speaking to the GM of the dealerships if your SA isn't accommodating, you might get luckier than I was able too. Second is buy a set of replacement turbo's or Vargas stage 1s or 2's depending on what you want to do with the car (recommended) and have them installed privately.

    The half engine light could be a boost leak or some other misfire issue, you will have to pull the codes and post them here. My guess if you're just feeling sluggish without any jerky feeling you're dealing with a slight or semi mild boost leak, obviously costing your power. It could also be that you're wastegates are toast and you're getting a huge amount of boost loss from this.

    Enjoy your trip to NYC, as with anything car's can be fixed.




  4. #4
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E90SoFlo Click here to enlarge
    Eric ill text you.

    But let me write this out here first. I work on my car myself or If its something I am unable to do I have a local euro shop do these things (ill text you the info), I am out of warranty so I do not use a dealer.

    Waste gate rattle is expected and nothing you can do about it, all of the dealers I have taken my car too, requesting a warranty/defective part or even a recall have declined my request in SW Florida. You have two option here, first is go to the dealerships in the area and request to speak with a Service advisor, request they're changed under warranty defective part or recall, try speaking to the GM of the dealerships, you might get luckier than I was able too. Second is buy a set of replacement turbo's or Vargas stage 1s or 2's depending on what you want to do with the car (recommended)

    The half engine light could be a boost leak or some other misfire issue, you will have to pull the codes and post them here. My guess if you're just feeling sluggish without any jerky feeling you're dealing with a slight or semi mild boost leak, obviously costing your power. It could also be that you're wastegates are toast and you're getting a huge amount of boost loss from this.

    Enjoy your trip to NYC, as with anything car's can be fixed.
    Thanks for all the information man, I appreciate it. Ill be sure to log this ASAP to get a better idea of what is going on. I understand that the wastegate rattle is unavoidable, but its gotten much worse than I expect 'normal' to be. Hopefully its something i can do myself and wont cost an arm and a leg.

    Im going to be grabbing logs ASAP and resetting tune/adaptions then logging both map 0/map 1 and then adjusting wastegate positions to see if that helps.


    -Eric
    Click here to enlarge

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    Check for vaccum leaks. May have a bad piece of hose somewhere.

  6. #6
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by jzeee037 Click here to enlarge
    Check for vaccum leaks. May have a bad piece of hose somewhere.
    Where would common places to check, and what is the best way to check? Simply have someone rev the engine while I listen/feel for the leak?
    Click here to enlarge

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    There is a DIY on n54tech about how to perform a vacuum test. My waste gates rattle something fierce. It scares small children and the elderly. My solution is replace with a set of stg 2 turbos from Vargas. Until then I will watch the weak run in terror as my car downshifts.
    07 335i FFTEC 600 Click here to enlarge

  8. #8
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    Click here to enlarge
    2005 Porsche 996 TTS RWD - Eurodyne 60-130 in 6.50s
    2015 Audi A3 2.0 TFSI - Eurodyne 0 - 100 in 10.67s
    2015 McLaren 650S (RHD) - UK - 1/3rd owner yet to drive


    Click here to enlarge



  9. #9
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    I had a leak when I first started modding and my stock turbos rattled like hell. Mine leaked down at the actuator on the vac. line. I would check all your vacuum lines heat is pretty tough on them. Some are brittle plastic under the engine cover so check for cracks. I'd also suggest using the diy.

  10. #10
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    The downpipes really amplify the rattle. On stock tune and cobb OTS maps I had a slight rattle on decel and rattle on partial throttle. PTF tuned it out for me and the car is dead silent. Also when I had my jb4 g5 iso firmware 20 and higher go rid of rattle completely. I must agree the rattle is extremely annoying but can be tuned out.

  11. #11
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    On my car the DP's made the rattle noticeable for the first time in ownership. It has slightly gotten worse, but with the JB4 I'm able to adjust the base duty cycle to a place where they don't rattle. Which over the past 20k miles or so has gotten higher and higher, so much so that I'm sure I will be replacing the turbo's soon. If your rattling really is THAT bad though, maybe you have a chance at the stealership replacing the turbo's. Although it would be a good bit of work going back to stock to find out.

    Many get long starts. Sometimes it's caused by E85. Sometimes it's caused by a leaking/faulty injector. Sometimes fuel pumps. Sometimes it's Obama's fault. None of those things are exactly easy to diagnose or fix unless you want to spend some money.

    Otherwise to help with the error code you should read the actual hex code number or decimal, whatever the procede gives you, and post a log of course.

  12. #12
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    Check the 2 vac lines that cross the top of the engine [ at the front] these get hot and brittle.
    Click here to enlarge
    335i ~ JB4 ~ BMS ~ DCI ~ Active Autowerks CP & BOV ~ Borla Catback Exhaust

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    Vacuum test the lines for sure, as well as boost solenoids. However, as Terry discovered, the base piggy WGDC can use some fine tuning to reduce WG rattle on acceleration. Terry released a revised map to fix the rattle from 1k to 3k, shiv has not and probably wont. In my testing, raising the WGDC table high enoguh to eliminate acceleration rattle caused too high of boost onset at part throttle, and I didn't like it.

  14. #14
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    Hey everyone, thanks for the comments, here is an update:

    Was able to get the codes off the car and it is indeed a 30FF underboost code. No signs of any misfires (ive had plenty, i know what to feel for). Been driving on it all week with no issue (since i cant drive it hard during the week). A modded Cayman S was teasing with me so i stepped on it and i got that ugly half-engine and 30FF Click here to enlarge

    Im going to be pulling the car apart as far as i can tonight to see if i can spot any breaks in the piping on both sides of the intercooler and the chargepipe. I will then do some more research on these vaccum lines to see if i can spot something wrong. As far as vaccum lines go, im not terribly sure what i will be looking for. Thanks for the info everyone, wish me luck, ill be watching the thread to see if i get any more marvelous information.


    -E
    Click here to enlarge

  15. #15
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    It's tough to easily spot problems with the vacuum lines because they are rubber lines covered with fabric braid. I was having the same issue with 30FF codes rights after I first bought my AP and flash my car a couple months ago. I replaced all the vacuum lines and the problem was solved.
    Eppur si muove.

  16. #16
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    Alright, the car is currently disasembled in the garage. I checked the pipes to/from the intercooler and the chargepipe and could not find any cracks or breaks of any sort however i am still looking though. I cannot figure out what else to do. Here are some photos and ideas:


    First off, the two DVs had odd amounts of oil. The front one had a lot of oil inside that white plastic pipe and all over the DV itself, the rear (closest to throttlebody) was absolutely clean as a whistle. Pictures:

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge


    Would this lead me to believe that i am losing pressure at that front divert valve???



    Here are photos of the intercoolers connections:

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge


    Click here to enlarge


    And here is a photo of the charge pipe connetion to throttle body:

    Click here to enlarge


    EDIT: Trying to fix the photos, hold on...
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    Last edited by Eric335; 10-18-2013 at 09:37 PM.
    Click here to enlarge

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    Lol my car is like my relationship with my girl, it's a love hate type of thing. At times I just won't to say f### this s### I'm out, but then I look back and it's just certain things that make me smile and makes me fall back in love again lol.
    E92 Monaco Blue AT 335I/ VTT S2B2/ JB4 G5 w/ BB Flash/ BMS DCI/ ER CP w/ Synaspe BOV/ M2 Exhaust/VRSF Dp's/ ETS 5' FMIC/ BMS OCC/ Coolingmist CMGS Autolearn Meth Kit/ VMR V710/ ST V1 Coilovers/BMS Spacers/Aero Lip/m3 replica side skirts/m3 Spoiler/BSW stage 1 audio uprade/ P3 Gauge/Morimoto 15k HID AE/3k HID Fogs/ interior led upgrade/ painted reflectors/ black kidney grills

  18. #18
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    Check that o-ring at the chargepipe/throttlebody conn. also ripped one of those one time also.

  19. #19
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    Had similar problem. Only I was getting the low boost code along with vanos codes.
    VANOS solenoids were replaced but low boost code persisted.
    Both preasure converters ended up having to be changed.
    All good now.

  20. #20
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    Might just wait it out. Selling this car before I go to college so that I dont take a 4-year hit on depreciation. Then putting the money from my car into my TD Ameritrade account and hopefully turning it into a new M3 when i graduate Click here to enlarge Im up 23% for this year so far with only 40% of my capital invested.
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