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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RoyalFlush Click here to enlarge
    Did you only test the E85 mix out of the fuel pump, or did you also test what's in your tank?
    Where did you get the 10 minute time frame from? Upon reading a few things, people normally did 1-5 minutes? I have nothing against waiting for 10 minutes, since I'll probably be the only one there early in the morning. I just wanted to know for clarification.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    @lulz_m3 - so do you go buy E85 for $1 and fill an empty can of soda? I know there's a 10 minute wait after mixing them in and letting it settle.
    I have to drive around an hour to get my E85, so i just fill up a few 5 gallon cans and test it when i get home to see how good it is. Its been consistent at 85% ethanol from the place i get it from. As long as its consistent i just mix it the same each time i fill up, i never test whats in my tank. Not to mention that tester cannot read below 50 or 60% ethanol IIRC.

    I also waited around 10 mins for it to settle, i tried 5 at first but couldn't see a clear line of separation.
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

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  2. #27
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    FWIW, if you're buying the Gates 27093 Fuel Line Hose, byy it from Jegs and price-math FRSport. On Amazon, Jegs, Ebay, etc., it's normally $31.99/ft or more and sometimes adds the cost of shipping. FRSport has it for $19.95/ft., and Jegs has free shipping. You could probably order it directly from FRSport, but I chose Jegs because of their warehouse and shipping location.

    Do not buy the Gates 27093 from Ebay that's listed as $19.95/ft. It's actually 27097, per the reply from the seller, which is 3/8" and not 5/16".

    "I've fixed it. Also, I wanted to mention that I buy the fuel line in bulk, is 3/8", and is actually the Gates 27097, yet it can be used on anything requiring 5/16" or 3/8" from my experience. If you try using the line you'll find that it works perfectly, is very strong, chemical resistant, and it works just as the Gates 27093 would. The line says Gates in the special Gates script about every 3 feet and works every time in my experience. I've also found that in some applications, the instructions state to use 5/16" line, although turns out that the 3/8" actually fits better around the fittings. Turns out 1/16" is hardly a difference, and is actually easier to use in most cases.

    I realized I had put the wrong part number on the listing, after I had started selling these. The reason I leave it the way it is, is because most people are told to get 27093, and don't even realize that there is two part numbers and that they actually need 3/8." It's the way Gates finds a way for you to purchase both sizes and make more money off you. So, to get back at the game they play, I play the opposite game, where you buy one size fits all, the larger one.


    In other words, it's all about looking out for the customer. One size fits all.


    Let me know if you have any other questions.


    Thanks,
    Daniel


    - sehablaauction"

    I'm unsure about the difference of using 3/8" instead of 5/16", but most people who've done the upgrade(s) use 5/16".
    Last edited by RoyalFlush; 10-02-2013 at 02:22 PM.

  3. #28
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    Gates 27093 is actually $16+shipping on Amazon. And it is 5/16"
    Click here to enlarge
    MOTIV750 / MHD+JB4 / ADV / SB REAR O2

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    Gates 27093 is actually $16+shipping on Amazon. And it is 5/16"
    Ah, good catch. I guess I missed that one. With shipping, it comes to roughly about the same as the sale price/price-match from Jegs, $19.87/foot. If you purchase more than 1 foot, they charge you additional shipping for each foot. I'm sure it doesn't/wouldn't matter, but I also trust Jegs more than Midway Auto Supply, since I've never personally purchased anything from them. I normally only go through Amazon when items are eligible for Amazon Prime.

  5. #30
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RoyalFlush Click here to enlarge
    I completed this upgrade over the recent weekend. The DIY I followed and products I used are below.

    DIY: "Revised Setup 3" - Factory + Walbro GSL392 Inline Fuel Pump

    Walbro GSL392 Fuel Pump Kit

    Includes:
    - Walbro GSL392 255 LPH fuel pump
    - 128-3012 bundy fittings (2)
    - Crush washers (2)
    - Electrical connections (2)
    - Starlock washers (2)
    - Nuts (2)
    - Mounting clamps (2 - not needed)
    - Mounting cushion (1 - not needed)

    Gates 27093 5/16" Submersible Fuel Line Hose

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../iK7pa8h-1.jpg

    I think any SAE 30R10 fuel line hose will work.

    Fuel Injection Hose Clamps (5/16")

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../M4nX48u-1.jpg

    Southwire THHN/THWN/TWN75/T90 Electrical Wire (Gasoline and oil resistant)

    The wire just needs to be stranded and equal to or bigger than the stock wire, which is 16-gauge. I used 14-gauge and gasoline and oil resistant wire that I found at Home Depot. (When calling, the employees didn't know what gasoline/oil/fuel resistant wire was. One of them even said "I"ve never heard of that before." The first spool I saw when I walked in had text indicating it was gasoline and oil resistant.)

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../MDkAOzn-1.jpg

    Marine Heat Shrink Tubing

    I bought this at Harbor Freight. One of the employees recommended it since I was using it for fuel, and it has a 3:1 shrink ratio.

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../9NxnZdo-1.jpg

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../LmJJ0pd-1.jpg

    10-12 Gauge Watertight Heat Shrink Butt Connectors

    I also bought this at Harbor Freight. I initially bought the 14-16 sizes, but ended up purchasing the 10-12 sizes.

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../Cl2UIIw-1.jpg

    Dorman 800-123 Bundy Fuel Line Connectors

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../98rxY3c-1.jpg

    I found the 90-degree connectors work the best.

    So far, after an ECU/adaptation reset, no codes have (re)appeared. I couldn't help myself and go WOT a (lot) few times, and it held up to 18 PSI. I'll be getting proTUNED by Jake@PTF this weekend, with E60, so I supposed that'll be the real test.
    Nicely done! Formatting, pics, links, everything. Repped.
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  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RoyalFlush Click here to enlarge
    The "kit' I linked is probably as close to a "DIY" kit that would possibly be sold be a vendor. I don't think the vendors would add the miscellaenous things: fuel line hose/clamps, electrical wire, or heat shrink tubing/connectors.
    The main thing for us Canucks is shipping costs. If you guys are paying ~150 for the entire setup, ordering from 5-6 different US sources would probably make it $210-$240 for us. If a vendor wants to order piece parts in bulk, theoretically cutting costs slightly, then we'd only be paying one outrageous shipping cost instead of many. Plus a little profit for them too, which is fine by me. Just an idea.

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    The main thing for us Canucks is shipping costs. If you guys are paying ~150 for the entire setup, ordering from 5-6 different US sources would probably make it $210-$240 for us. If a vendor wants to order piece parts in bulk, theoretically cutting costs slightly, then we'd only be paying one outrageous shipping cost instead of many. Plus a little profit for them too, which is fine by me. Just an idea.
    Ah, understood. I completely forgot about other shipping address locations.

    It might just be me being a complete newb, but when I went on Ebay Canada, and clicked "Free Shipping" with "Canada Only" or "Worldwide", the same kit seems to be available?

    Ebay Canada Search

    If that's correct and I'm not being a complete newb, you can get the other items in your local hardware store. You don't need to order all of them online.

  8. #33
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    Not a noob comment by any means, I just tend to avoid ebay. As a comparison, the Tyco ECU pins I ordered from a link in a thread on this site, 10 male pins were ~$4, and $13 shipped to my house.

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    Not a noob comment by any means, I just tend to avoid ebay. As a comparison, the Tyco ECU pins I ordered from a link in a thread on this site, 10 male pins were ~$4, and $13 shipped to my house.
    To be honest, I'm in the same boat. I was never a fan of Ebay nor purchased anything from them; until this kit. It's the same one that other members have used. If the same seller, cole464, sells and ships to Canada for free or low cost, you should give it a try. He has a 99.9% positive feedback rating with almost 1,600 reviews.

  10. #35
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Started my Inline LPFP install, but ran into an issue. I cannot get the large fuel line connector off on top. I attempted pushing them in...didn't work so I pulled outward with small screwdrivers which results in both sides breaking. The connector is still securely fastened though. So now I'm trying to figure out how to remove and replace that connector... pics below.

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

  11. #36
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dsjr2006 Click here to enlarge
    Started my Inline LPFP install, but ran into an issue. I cannot get the large fuel line connector off on top. I attempted pushing them in...didn't work so I pulled outward with small screwdrivers which results in both sides breaking. The connector is still securely fastened though. So now I'm trying to figure out how to remove and replace that connector... pics below.

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge
    With those tabs gone, nothing is holding it, those are just really tight on there, even with both tabs pushed in you have use a screwdriver or little prybar under the edge of it to get it moving, now that you broke the tabs, just do that and it should pop right up.

  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RoyalFlush Click here to enlarge
    Nope, not at all. Along with that. You just need a submersible fuel resistant hose, fuel resistant electrical wire, fuel resistant heat shrink, hose clamps, and bundy connectors. It's a lot more appealing to the eyes and DIYers than an in-tank upgrade.
    what's the cost of a parallel or replacement vs the inline?

    i don't quite get what you mean by the last line... the inline is still in-tank, it's just..... inline haha
    boop

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    what's the cost of a parallel or replacement vs the inline?

    i don't quite get what you mean by the last line... the inline is still in-tank, it's just..... inline haha
    by that, he means it is not replacing the stock pump with the walbro E85 pump.
    Click here to enlarge
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  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MAC335 Click here to enlarge
    by that, he means it is not replacing the stock pump with the walbro E85 pump.
    ah i thought so

    how much more expensive is the replacement package/DIY complexity?

    also, same question for parallel vs inline
    boop

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    With those tabs gone, nothing is holding it, those are just really tight on there, even with both tabs pushed in you have use a screwdriver or little prybar under the edge of it to get it moving, now that you broke the tabs, just do that and it should pop right up.
    The tabs have not come out, just the outer piece is broken off. I tried pulling the plastic tabs out with needle nose pliers and pushing through with tiny screwdrivers, but they won't come out. I'm wondering if the piece is replaceable though in case I break it trying to get the pieces out or getting the fitting off.

  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    ah i thought so

    how much more expensive is the replacement package/DIY complexity?

    also, same question for parallel vs inline
    The best option is to do the inline, in-tank walbro. Click Here
    Click here to enlarge
    460whp/510wtq tuned by Terry

  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MAC335 Click here to enlarge
    The best option is to do the inline, in-tank walbro. Click Here
    what are it's advantages over either parallel or replacement?

    cheaper? easier? better performing?

    surely the parallel would perform better, and not much more difficult or expensive?
    boop

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    what are it's advantages over either parallel or replacement?

    cheaper? easier? better performing?

    surely the parallel would perform better, and not much more difficult or expensive?
    Bump for answers to this?
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