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Thread: I should be studying, instead I'm KLINEing it up

              
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    I should be studying, instead I'm KLINEing it up

    So I took a study break from the brachial plexus and other stuff to put the BMS flash back on my car (missed it ever since I gave my Cobb to a friend). Downloaded the files, the bbflash utility, and the BMS modified bbflash utility. Of course, being Kline with a useless 6amp charger, and with every modern computer I own using intel chipsets, I couldn't read the car. Lots of dropped communication in the logs.

    For failed computers reference: a Core2Duo laptop (memron/perym chipset) failed. First, second and third gen i7 chipset laptops failed (ivybridge was an ultrabook) which should mean any of the first three generations of i5/i7 based laptops with Nahalem, Clarksfield, Sandy bridge and Ivy bridge will fail... or at least take over 5 hours (not a good idea with a 6amp charger). Basically anything from 2009+ from intel probably won't work well for Kline.

    Anyway, I dug out my old desktop from the closet, an AMD rig I built in 2003. To my surprise it booted up into windows XP service pack something faster than my current i7 boots. One thing I'd like to mention is you need .NET framework installed to use the bimmerboost software. Moving along... I attempted communication, I got voltage sometimes, sometimes not. VIN sometimes, sometimes half VIN. Tried a read and 70 minutes later I had what looks like a clean ROM.

    Took it to TunerPro and started porting the BMS maps into my ROM (OCD about things like that). Afterwards saved it, brought my stock, modified, and the canned BMS ROM to the computer to write. This is where headaches insued.

    On the first attempt, it said communications failure, but the fuel pump kicked on. Red light on cable blinking away... I thought it had failed so I closed everything. And now the car won't start, so was apparently writing even though it gave an error. Couldn't get anything to write now, got the same thing over and over. The software was saying the computer was in recovery mode and I need to upload a working ROM.

    So to fix it and get things working, in case anyone else runs into similar issues, I had to unplug the battery for a minute or so and try again. My car has about a 50/50 chance of a write starting correctly. If it fails off the get go, I had to unplug the battery and try again. But, if it progressed to step 1/2/3 everything works fine, 10 minutes later I have a BMS flash again. I was able to write the canned flash and the one I modified no problem, well, 50% of the time.

    Still buggy for sure but props for this! Should be relatively smooth sailing now that I know what to expect! On a final note, I ended up using the BMS modified version 1.1 for all of this. The normal bbbflash beta was definitely more aggressive at trying to write it seemed, but it failed once at step 3. Terry's version whatever he changed seems a bit more stable for KLINE, may want to think about incorporating those changes into the main release.

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    Also may be worth noting, I pulled my fuel pump fuse (a 20 amp located at location 70), which was probably a good idea considering it took about 8 flash attempts to get it all working (first attempt at my modified version failed, freaked out a bit, screwed with it for a half hour or so, stock bin finally uploaded and worked, upload of canned BMS failed, screwed with it another half hour, upload canned BMS worked, upload my modified BMS bin failed but this time because the bb software locked up, toy with it 5 minutes since I'm pro now, my modified bin worked).

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    With lots of people moving over to flash tunes, I've really started wondering how taxing it is on the fuel pumps since they are getting primed from anywhere between 2-20 mins (map switch vs. install/uninstall).

    My cars actually getting the Low Pressure Fuel Sensor replaced now, been wondering if that maybe got burnt out because of flashing back and forth for the past year.... oh well Click here to enlarge
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
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    With lots of people moving over to flash tunes, I've really started wondering how taxing it is on the fuel pumps since they are getting primed from anywhere between 2-20 mins (map switch vs. install/uninstall).

    My cars actually getting the Low Pressure Fuel Sensor replaced now, been wondering if that maybe got burnt out because of flashing back and forth for the past year.... oh well Click here to enlarge
    hmmm...sounds like pulling the fuse and a $20 battery charger should be recommended.

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    Idea: you could try hooking up your computer's power supply to the car battery Click here to enlarge

    My computer PSU supplies 100 amps on the 12V rail. Better than any cheap battery charger. Though I managed to flash my KLINE car with a mere 10 A charger.

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    PC power supplies puts out almost exactly 12 volts. Once you figure in voltage drops across connectors, you are getting close to the low limit of voltage for DME flashing. You are best using something that supplies at least 13.5 volts.
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    6 amps without the fuel pump fuse worked for me! Voltage (when it registered) was around 12.1 to 12.3, when I started hours earlier it was around 12.4, not too bad. But then again, it was DEFINITELY hit and miss. Just have to be patient, and if something goes awry disconnect the battery and try again.

    Pulling the fuse is easy, I think it should definitely be done, no reason not to at all. Less stress on the FP, less stress on the battery, less stress on the charger, peace of mind, etc. It's not the ideal solution but it takes what 30 seconds?

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    This makes perfect sense to me:

    Most modern computers and versions of Windows are really trying to manage the power of the laptop in a very weird way. If you have communication troubles with modern day computers try this:

    1. DIsable CPU frequency scaling on the chip. Intel calls it SpeedStep. Not sure what AMD calls it. This will force your CPU to run in max frequency without scaling back. 2
    2. Edit your power management settings and make sure no devices get powered down or suspended on the computer, neither when plugged in nor when on battery.
    3. Always run applications as Administrator.
    4. If you can, use 32-bit Windows. 64-bit Windows even in XP mode is know to cause some issues.
    5. Always try to use USB 2.0 ports. Some USB 3.0 chipsets are bit flaky and will drop connections when forced into USB 1.1 or USB 1.0 mode.
    6. Manually assign COM Ports to your cables. Do not allow Windows to manage that as it may sometimes try to put more than one COM port on the same device.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
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    6 amps without the fuel pump fuse worked for me! Voltage (when it registered) was around 12.1 to 12.3, when I started hours earlier it was around 12.4, not too bad. But then again, it was DEFINITELY hit and miss. Just have to be patient, and if something goes awry disconnect the battery and try again.

    Pulling the fuse is easy, I think it should definitely be done, no reason not to at all. Less stress on the FP, less stress on the battery, less stress on the charger, peace of mind, etc. It's not the ideal solution but it takes what 30 seconds?
    Whats the fuse number of the fuel pump?
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
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    Whats the fuse number of the fuel pump?
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
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    Also may be worth noting, I pulled my fuel pump fuse (a 20 amp located at location 70)

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
    This makes perfect sense to me:

    Most modern computers and versions of Windows are really trying to manage the power of the laptop in a very weird way. If you have communication troubles with modern day computers try this:

    1. DIsable CPU frequency scaling on the chip. Intel calls it SpeedStep. Not sure what AMD calls it. This will force your CPU to run in max frequency without scaling back. 2
    2. Edit your power management settings and make sure no devices get powered down or suspended on the computer, neither when plugged in nor when on battery.
    3. Always run applications as Administrator.
    4. If you can, use 32-bit Windows. 64-bit Windows even in XP mode is know to cause some issues.
    5. Always try to use USB 2.0 ports. Some USB 3.0 chipsets are bit flaky and will drop connections when forced into USB 1.1 or USB 1.0 mode.
    6. Manually assign COM Ports to your cables. Do not allow Windows to manage that as it may sometimes try to put more than one COM port on the same device.
    1. They were all gaming laptops (some older than others) and plugged in, so all active power management was disabled.
    2. I hate this feature on new laptops and always disable it
    3. Tried that same results
    4. Was unable to test anything other than windows 7 x64
    5. Was only using usb 2.0 ports (even on the ancient rig that worked)
    6. Did not try that, but had similar thoughts. One thing I had thought to change after the fact was the COM port and settings in device manager. Maybe there is some way to change the port settings, speed, or something to make this work better. The error I continuously received on intel boxes was the following screenie:

    Click here to enlarge

    Basically when it was reading I was getting a timer of close to 550minutes to do a full read on all of the intel boxes, with similar errors on all of them. Just observations at this point.

    Also of note, these laptops did fine on a 2009 DCAN car. It's just my KLINE that had issues with the intel computers.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
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    Whats the fuse number of the fuel pump?
    In the little booklet thingy in the glovebox (in the back, remove the small panel with the finger turn latches), there is a booklet with a picture of an old school gas station pump. Mine had three locations listed, but the only one had a fuse, location 70. It was a 20amp mini ATO fuse with pretty much nothing else around it.

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    First, computer power supplies don't put out 100A at 12v - that is just crazy and would take conductors the size of jumper cables to flow that kind of power, 2nd they cost almost as much as a battery charger actually made for the job!

    A typical desktop power supply will put out 8-10 amps at 12V, a big power supply, like 500 watts will still only put out upwards of 20 amps at 12v, and like others have said, you want more than 12V.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by V8Bait Click here to enlarge
    This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
    1. They were all gaming laptops (some older than others) and plugged in, so all active power management was disabled.
    2. I hate this feature on new laptops and always disable it
    3. Tried that same results
    4. Was unable to test anything other than windows 7 x64
    5. Was only using usb 2.0 ports (even on the ancient rig that worked)
    6. Did not try that, but had similar thoughts. One thing I had thought to change after the fact was the COM port and settings in device manager. Maybe there is some way to change the port settings, speed, or something to make this work better. The error I continuously received on intel boxes was the following screenie:

    Click here to enlarge

    Basically when it was reading I was getting a timer of close to 550minutes to do a full read on all of the intel boxes, with similar errors on all of them. Just observations at this point.

    Also of note, these laptops did fine on a 2009 DCAN car. It's just my KLINE that had issues with the intel computers.



    In the little booklet thingy in the glovebox (in the back, remove the small panel with the finger turn latches), there is a booklet with a picture of an old school gas station pump. Mine had three locations listed, but the only one had a fuse, location 70. It was a 20amp mini ATO fuse with pretty much nothing else around it.
    The problem with your log(at first glance) is that it fails every block once, then the second time, it reads out fine. So between waiting for a time out, plus the retransmissions of requesting the same memory block, the time gets out of hand, but it does appear to be reading.

    23 is the request linear memory block command. 40 at the end is the size of block to read. The rest is high/low byte memory address stuff. You'll see it increments by 0x40 each time.
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    There is a latency setting in the "Advanced Settings" window that maybe would help on the faster machines having problems. To get to it, open the device manager, find the USB serial port corresponding to your BT cable and go to it's properties. Then under the "Port Settings" tab, click the "Advanced..." button. Or at least that's how it is on XP, though I think the dialogs are at least similar for 7.

    This is a random FTDI device I had laying around my desk at work. That's why the COM port # is ridiculous. Lots of these types of devices get connected to this computer.

    Click here to enlarge

    Maybe try screwing with the "Latency Timer" setting if your computer doesn't communicate well with the DME.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
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    There is a latency setting in the "Advanced Settings" window that maybe would help on the faster machines having problems. To get to it, open the device manager, find the USB serial port corresponding to your BT cable and go to it's properties. Then under the "Port Settings" tab, click the "Advanced..." button. Or at least that's how it is on XP, though I think the dialogs are at least similar for 7.

    This is a random FTDI device I had laying around my desk at work. That's why the COM port # is ridiculous. Lots of these types of devices get connected to this computer.

    Click here to enlarge

    Maybe try screwing with the "Latency Timer" setting if your computer doesn't communicate well with the DME.
    I think this is only for OBD cables like the INPA. I don't believe, and I could be wrong, that the BT cable drivers have this option. It comes up as a USB serial device or something like that, rather than a VCP. At least, I think I remember something like that happening, someone else can verify.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by klipseracer Click here to enlarge
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    I think this is only for OBD cables like the INPA. I don't believe, and I could be wrong, that the BT cable drivers have this option. It comes up as a USB serial device or something like that, rather than a VCP. At least, I think I remember something like that happening, someone else can verify.
    I see. I couldn't remember if it had it's own driver, or was VCP.
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    Yeah klipse that's exactly what I noticed it doing. It didn't seem to be broken per say, but 550+ minutes for a full read on a 6amp charger was a negative.

    Aim8127- I thought of that same screen in device manager to set the speed, but hadn't checked if it's even an option, klipseracer is probably right about it though.



    As for the brachial plexus no comment. I survived today better than most, our teacher likes to make, well, how can i phase this... clever questions. Fun on worksheets, not so fun on timed stations lol. All the upper extremity and back plus comprehensive, good times!

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