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  1. #1
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    "New" motor No Start

    I've posted on n54tech, but trying to get as much help as possible. I hope this is in the right section.

    I've posted one thread asking where a few connectors go by the DME. I'm almost sure they don't go to anything. So anyone that has put a new used motor in or knows someone that has put a motor in will you help me with this. My mechanic is leaning towards the DME is fried, but I don't see how that could be. When I blew my motor I money shifted and I had my JB4 installed. I need someone to help me figure out what we could be missing. Does anyone know if the alarm needs to be reset some how since the motor, transmission and battery have been out for over 6 months? We are getting fuel, but no spark. I'm desperate at this point. Having a car down for over 6 months and making payments and not being able to drive it is not a good feeling. It makes my stomach ache.

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    Is there any indication the battery is working? Like the headlights or radio? I would test the battery if its been out 6 months.

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    If the motor is cranking, I'm assuming the battery is good. If you have a JB4 in there, check the power wire (orange) and ensure it is installed correctly, since this can intercept either one of two orange wires, one of which powers the coils. Also, IIRC, engines are not "swappable" with the old DME trying to control it. Someone else chime in, but I beleive the DME needs to be coded to the engine.

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    When i changed the engine i had no spark in 1 cylinder , turned out there was no ground connected to the coil.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    If the motor is cranking, I'm assuming the battery is good. If you have a JB4 in there, check the power wire (orange) and ensure it is installed correctly, since this can intercept either one of two orange wires, one of which powers the coils. Also, IIRC, engines are not "swappable" with the old DME trying to control it. Someone else chime in, but I beleive the DME needs to be coded to the engine.
    It is, it's been done before, you just have to code the new injectors in.. and even then, it'll still work, just throw codes and stuff AFAIK.
    boop

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    The batterry needs to be replaced it doesn't crank very much without some extra juice hooked up to it. The JB4 I left unhooked until I get this problem solved. I didn't know anything about injectors needing to be coded. I have a thread on n54tech showing pics of some connectors that I didn't know what they went to. I'm unable to link bc my member status. I'll upload the pictures on here. What about an alrm guys is there like an immobilizer or something of that sort?

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    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LncGmz Click here to enlarge
    The batterry needs to be replaced it doesn't crank very much without some extra juice hooked up to it. The JB4 I left unhooked until I get this problem solved. I didn't know anything about injectors needing to be coded. I have a thread on n54tech showing pics of some connectors that I didn't know what they went to. I'm unable to link bc my member status. I'll upload the pictures on here. What about an alrm guys is there like an immobilizer or something of that sort?
    You can link now.

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    The only thing you need to code are the injectors. if all modules / keys are the same it should work. you have some electrical issue.
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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    Is your "mechanic" able to comunicate with the DME? If the car cranks and doesnt start, it should throw a code eventually. I would monitor the pid's that deal with creating spark i.e coils, crank sensor and ?... What is he using to read data from the car?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by J1gilles Click here to enlarge
    Is your "mechanic" able to comunicate with the DME? If the car cranks and doesnt start, it should throw a code eventually. I would monitor the pid's that deal with creating spark i.e coils, crank sensor and ?... What is he using to read data from the car?
    Good first post.

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    sounds like you dont have a mechanic, but rather a guy helping you lol

    what is he using to talk to the vehicle?
    have you made sure all your ground cables are in the right spot over in the Ebox area to the 13mm stud?
    make sure you dont have a POSITIVE or NEGATIVE in the wrong spot? they can reach, you know!
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    I had my 335i die on me in traffic once, it was after I installed the 2-step/NLS unit with my JB4, it turned out the lower connector to the coil power wire wasnt fully seated, it looked ok, it ran for a few km. But then it came loose and the engine stalled.

    I did have misfire codes though, so like everyone else said here, make sure you have a simple code reader (at least) or even better e BT-cable and check what you DME is trying to tell you Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    sounds like you dont have a mechanic, but rather a guy helping you lol

    what is he using to talk to the vehicle?
    have you made sure all your ground cables are in the right spot over in the Ebox area to the 13mm stud?
    make sure you dont have a POSITIVE or NEGATIVE in the wrong spot? they can reach, you know!

    LOL i was wondering that myself.... couldnt rep u otherwise i would... first thiing i would do is REMOVE jb4 and go over dme box... coil wires, and grounds, should take 20 minutes and ur car should start shortly after...

    did u transfer over parts such as hpfp, water pump, etc.. check clips etc
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    Click here to enlarge

    This is what he told me. I would have copy and pasted but it wouldn't let me.

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    The jb4 is not connected. I'm leaving that off until I get the vehicle running correctly. The battery has now been replaced. I'm limited to who could work on the vehicle in town. I'm in west Texas. We don't even have an interstate here and there is no BMW dealership for 230 miles nearby.

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    you need power @ the DME on the following pins:

    42
    12
    11
    9
    10
    6
    2



    go make sure with the key on you do. tell me which pins you dont.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    you need power @ the DME on the following pins

    42
    12
    11
    9
    10
    6
    2



    go make sure with the key on you do. tell me which pins you dont.
    Okay I will get back to you when I hear something back.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    you need power @ the DME on the following pins:

    42
    12
    11
    9
    10
    6
    2



    go make sure with the key on you do. tell me which pins you dont.
    Can you list the color of each pin if possible?

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    need the last 7 of your vin, and ill have to do it when i get a chance to log back into ISTA
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    need the last 7 of your vin, and ill have to do it when i get a chance to log back into ISTA
    7P023221. Thank you very much

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    hows them apples? Click here to enlarge


    Im glad i got the VIN, cause the wire diagram is different than the one i generically picked.


    yes its safe- its just a PDF screenshot of my ISTA to make life easy for you.

    (i do tech support for a major euro website.... i charge a LOT for tech support- so this is your freebee)
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    hows them apples? Click here to enlarge


    Im glad i got the VIN, cause the wire diagram is different than the one i generically picked.


    yes its safe- its just a PDF screenshot of my ISTA to make life easy for you.

    (i do tech support for a major euro website.... i charge a LOT for tech support- so this is your freebee)
    Click here to enlarge

    He said he only has power to red wires until he manually ground's wht/gry wire in the relay. When he does that he gets power to the orange wires.

    I hope that helps a little.

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    im trying to be as political as possible here:


    take it to someone who knows what their doing- not back probing connectors and ruining wiring.


    your going to save grief,time/money if you just bring it to someone who knows how to fix it with proper wiring diagrams and diagnostic procedures.


    im betting i could figure out whats wrong with it in less than an hour.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    im trying to be as political as possible here:


    take it to someone who knows what their doing- not back probing connectors and ruining wiring.


    your going to save grief,time/money if you just bring it to someone who knows how to fix it with proper wiring diagrams and diagnostic procedures.


    im betting i could figure out whats wrong with it in less than an hour.
    I was thinking the same thing. You will need to take it to a tech who knows not only BMWs/N54 engines and modern DME/CAS/EWS issues, but also knows how to go about detailed troubleshooting WITH proper wiring diagrams and test equipment. That includes some form of BMW diagnostic computer.

    This swap should have been extremely straight-forward. The only thing you should have changed was the long block, not the ECU or any other module.

    I'm not trying to be an ass, just have seen so many issues when people try to save money and DIY something more complex and end up spending more $$ fixing a problem they caused themselves.

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