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  1. #1
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    E90 auxiliary radiator thought and question

    Hi All,

    I've been searching around for some answers. But as far as I know, the auxiliary radiator that comes with the PPK2 is very small in capacity and only adds limited additional cooling power.

    My original thoughts were to simply switch it to an existing oil cooler such as the one from ER with a larger capacity to improve the cooling capacity as I know there's definitely enough space on the driver side for the larger radiator. However, I realize that oil and water/coolant are very different liquids with different viscosity and other physical properties.

    Can someone with more knowledge shed some light on this issue? Would it make sense to do a direct swap of the auxiliary radiator to an unused oil cooler (so oil doesn't mix in with the water/coolant)? Or are there other issues regarding this.

    Thanks for your attention.

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    Are you currently having overheating problems? If you are identify which fluid is the problem and work to remove heat from it.

    You can get the oil too cool. That should be avoided.

    You might want to try lowering the percentage of glycol in your coolant and maybe adding a surfactant like Redline Water Wetter before adding new parts. You do need some glycol because it has lubrication and anti-corrosive properties, but 30% glycol to 70% distilled water should be fine depending on the lowest winter temp your care will be stored or ran in.

    Replacing the oil thermostat with something like this can help as well.
    Eppur si muove.

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    As of now I'm not having overheating problems.

    I'm just trying to find a way to improve the radiator cooling that uses existing parts, since my car is an AT.

    I am planning to try Motul MoCool. Are there any reviews on the Redline or the Motul? Any empirical evidence on which one is better?

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    I would stick to whatever product allows you to use the BMW coolant. The coolant is formulated to play nicely with all the different materials in the cooling system and to provide lubrication and corrosion protection, as indicated above. The MoCool looks to be used directly with distilled water, meaning no BMW glycol coolant (G48). I used the water wetter with 30% BMW glycol and 70% distilled water and am happy with the results. My car is also a daily driver, so it needs to be good down to 0F.

    If you want to reduce the load on the cooling system, cool the ATF before it makes it to the factory heat exchanger with an auxiliary oil to air bar and plate cooler (Setrab or Earl's). One of my next mods is an ATF cooler in front of the driver's side front tire, where the PPK rad would go. This will help the ATF shed heat before it comes into contact with engine coolant.

    I also have a 34 row bar and plate cooler on the passenger's side for the engine oil.
    Eppur si muove.

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    The issue I have with making a separate ATF cooler is that I would need to find a place to mount it. And most space is taken up already.

    Anyone else wants to chime in on the using a oil cooler as an auxiliary radiator?
    And any other thoughts on Redline WaterWetter vs Motul MoCool? I've read that you can use MoCool with glycol? In Motul's technical data sheet it mentions "Can be mixed with most coolants monoethyleneglycol based."

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    Wait, do you already have the auxiliary radiator in front of the drivers front wheel? I thought you were contemplating buying one.
    Eppur si muove.

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    I already have the auxiliary radiator. I guess I didn't communicate properly. I was asking about how viable and efficient would it be to switch the radiator with an off the shelf big oil cooler such as the one from ER. Can one use an oil cooler to cool coolant mix? How efficient would it be?

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    My apologies.

    I don't see why you can't switch to an oil cooler on the driver's side. I don't know if I would reuse the PPK radiator as it was already filled with water. Do you already have an oil cooler on the passenger side? Like I said above, you want to avoid over-cooling the oil. It is designed to work in a specific temperature range.

    I see that Setrab and Earl's Plumbing market their products as "oil coolers" specifically, but I don't know why you couldn't run water through them instead. Oil is more viscous than water, of course, so I don't know if a cooler made for engine coolant would create excessive resistance to a more viscous fluid like oil. Overall I would think a cooler engineered for the specific fluid you are trying to cool would be most efficient, as there is a trade off between surface area and flow resistance that is dependent on viscosity.

    Finally, if you are not having over heating problems now, why change anything? Do you plan on doing some road course driving? Are you concerned about your ATF temperature? Do you know how to configure the display in the cluster that usually displays ambient air temperature and time to instead display engine coolant temperature?
    Eppur si muove.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by jyeah Click here to enlarge
    The issue I have with making a separate ATF cooler is that I would need to find a place to mount it. And most space is taken up already.
    A dedicated transmission cooler can be placed just below the PPK cooler in the driver side wheel well. It's the ONLY solution which will keep your car fully operational on a racetrack in hot summer temps.

    It has been done a couple times and is one of the last mods I need on my car.
    E92 335i SB / Black Leather / 6AT / Navi Prof / Sunroof / Active Steering
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    My apologies.

    I don't see why you can't switch to an oil cooler on the driver's side. I don't know if I would reuse the PPK radiator as it was already filled with water. Do you already have an oil cooler on the passenger side? Like I said above, you want to avoid over-cooling the oil. It is designed to work in a specific temperature range.

    I see that Setrab and Earl's Plumbing market their products as "oil coolers" specifically, but I don't know why you couldn't run water through them instead. Oil is more viscous than water, of course, so I don't know if a cooler made for engine coolant would create excessive resistance to a more viscous fluid like oil. Overall I would think a cooler engineered for the specific fluid you are trying to cool would be most efficient, as there is a trade off between surface area and flow resistance that is dependent on viscosity.

    Finally, if you are not having over heating problems now, why change anything? Do you plan on doing some road course driving? Are you concerned about your ATF temperature? Do you know how to configure the display in the cluster that usually displays ambient air temperature and time to instead display engine coolant temperature?
    Sorry, miscommunication again. I meant to say, use a brand new oil cooler in place of the aux radiator to help cool the coolant temperature. And yes, I plan to do some road coarse driving and am concerned about ATF. How would I configure the display? Also, is there a aftermarket cooler specific for coolant that might fit in the same space?

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    Do you know how big of a space we have for the transmission cooler in conjunction with the aux radiator?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by jyeah Click here to enlarge
    Sorry, miscommunication again. I meant to say, use a brand new oil cooler in place of the aux radiator to help cool the coolant temperature. And yes, I plan to do some road coarse driving and am concerned about ATF. How would I configure the display? Also, is there a aftermarket cooler specific for coolant that might fit in the same space?
    Not a problem.

    If you are concerned about the ATF, I would install a dedicated ATF cooler, like Autobahn335i is suggesting.

    To configure the cluster to display engine coolant temp, see below.



    Menu 07.01 is engine coolant temp. Very useful to monitor at the track.

    I've only ever researched aftermarket oil coolers, but you already have the PPK rad, and it seems you can install an ATF cooler below it, so I would go that route.

    What kind of engine oil cooler do you have?
    Eppur si muove.

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    The radiator is the primary cooling device for the engine. Instead of adding one, upgrade the primary one.

    If you are running an AT, an auxiliary ATF cooler is a must. Even if it is just a stock tune and you mostly drive around town.

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    I purchased this for anoyher car and never used it....Do you think we could use this trany cooler on our N54's..?

    http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-u...ooler-kit.html
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    - NX Express complete wet kit with Plug & Play fuel adapter for BMW 335i

    - FBO parts here LINK


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    The problem with 6ATs on the racetrack are not transmission temps per se, but the fact that the tranny uses the lower 3 rows of the main radiator as a heatexchanger. This is used to help heat up the coolant faster after a cold start. Which is fine in daily driving.

    But what happens on the track is that the hot transmission oil heats up the engine coolant even further, which ends up in the ECU cutting engine power when coolant goes over 118C. I've managed to reach this temp within 5 (!!) minutes on a short track (without long straights where lots of air moves through the coolers) on hot summer days.

    So we have to seperate the two cooling circuits.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted-M Click here to enlarge
    I purchased this for anoyher car and never used it....Do you think we could use this trany cooler on our N54's..?

    http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-u...ooler-kit.html
    Any decent core should work. I recommend using AN oil cooler lines to connect to the transmission. A bit more expensive but better safe then sorry when it comes to oil lines.
    E92 335i SB / Black Leather / 6AT / Navi Prof / Sunroof / Active Steering
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  17. #17
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted-M Click here to enlarge
    I purchased this for anoyher car and never used it....Do you think we could use this trany cooler on our N54's..?

    http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-u...ooler-kit.html
    I wouldn't use that. You want a bar and plate cooler like the Setrab or Earl's Plumbing ones.
    Eppur si muove.

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    I would just start by doing nothing extra to the cooling and go on a track day.
    By the time your engine temps (if you reach that point without overheating anything else like your brakes) are starting to overheat, you can always short shift at say 5000rpm, which will keep the car within limits, and still have a good day at the track.
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by maxnix Click here to enlarge
    The radiator is the primary cooling device for the engine. Instead of adding one, upgrade the primary one.

    If you are running an AT, an auxiliary ATF cooler is a must. Even if it is just a stock tune and you mostly drive around town.
    The problem for upgrading the primary one is that there are no vendors currently selling a proven upgraded radiator nor a proven standalone ATF cooler either.

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    If you go with an ATF cooler, it will have to be custom, but it's not rocket science. Get a bar and plate cooler, some AN lines and fittings, a thermostat and put it together.

    If you pull off the driver's front inner fender, you should be able to get an idea of how big of a bar and plate cooler you can fit in there. Look at what Setrab and Earl's offer, and buy the biggest one that fits. Stick the cooler behind a thermostat to prevent over-cooling, and plumb it in before the stock ATF cooler to remove heat before the heat has a chance to make it into the engine coolant.

    Before you go through all that work though, drop your glycol concentration add Water Wetter or MoCool (I'm sure they are about equally effective) and get an oil thermostat bypass like the ones BMS or PTF offer. That all should cost under $100. Then try it out.

    Don't waste your money on cooling upgrades unless you know they are needed.
    Eppur si muove.

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