07-31-2013, 01:03 PM #1
Mr.5 Intake Installation Notes, boost leaks and Forge Diverter Valves.
Hey guys, had the pleasure of doing my own Mr.5 version of an intake last weekend, and had a couple of interesting things come up that may be useful to a few of you.
First of all, there are a bunch of people saying that you can't do the Mr. 5 intake if you have forge DV's and a charge pipe with male DV connectors. It locates the DV's right in the traditional Mr.5 flow path, so they're in the way. Well, that's correct, but it's pretty easily worked around. A few things though...
1: The small rubber joining hoses to mount Forge DV's to the BMS charge pipe aren't the best quality. Maybe it's the AZ heat but I found my radiator clamps partly melted through the rubber. Sure, I'm guessing I was a little aggressive in applying torque in the hopes of no boost leaks, but the things just plain melted. This becomes a boost leak quickly.
Additionally, those of you with Forge DV's and troublesome vaccum/boost issues, rebuild them. I think Forge machined several of the pistons incorrectly and they didn't seal well. I articulated this to Forge, and they sent me a rebuild kit. I noted that the rebuild kit they (eventually) sent me has pistons with a built-in rubber gasket on the DV main sealing surface.
2: The forge DV's are in the way. You can remedy this by rooting through the radiator hose section at your local auto parts store until you find a "J" shaped hose that you think will work. This puts one of the dv's under the stock airbox, which then clears room for the Mr.5 intake mod. The serial number of the hose I used, from an autozone, was Dayco part number B70531 "curved radiator hose". It was about $7. I used the long remaining straight piece to give a little more room to the aftmost DV.
3: I calculated that this was the largest air filter I could fit in the fender. That's sort of correct. I would highly recommend for blood pressure reasons to go with one size smaller. I had to partly crush the filter to make it fit and buttoning everything up was definitely a bit of a trick. That said, it dwarfs the BMS DCI. I used spectre part #8708 to join the basic McMaster Carr hose to the filter. (3" inlet on the filter to 3" hose, full 3" all the way back to the airbox).
4. I had a little extra heat tape so I used it.
As far as results go, thus far it does a much better job of controlling inlet air temps, especially at idle/stop and go traffic, and heat soak is far less of an issue, however, I'll go into that good stuff once I'm done getting all the info and will make a separate post for the inevitable DCI vs. Mr.5 comparisons. The thing that makes this unique is the hot climate I'm in...
07-31-2013, 01:50 PM #2
Nicely detailed.Chrome Space Bar Issue: http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...338#post738338
07-31-2013, 05:22 PM #3
Hey could you provide the dimensions of the filter you used so I can go slightly smaller? Also, what's different about forge dv's/bms charge pipe combo compared to stock; just bigger or something and sticks out further? Also, I have an e92 coupe which has a structural bar down in the path of where the tube goes so I have to use a 2.5" tube to fit rather than a 3" tube. Do you think it's still worth doing with a 2.5" tube?
07-31-2013, 06:20 PM #4
The AFe filter I used is the 24-30028, which you can see here: http://afepower.com/shop/details_new...ue&&brandID=61
It's a 3" flange, 6" diameter bottom, 4.75" diameter top, and 9" high. I'd go 7-8" and it'll still be work to get it in IMO.
As far as that structural bar goes, you are correct in that a 3" diameter hose won't quite fit. I wouldn't go 2.5" though, I would crush the 3" hose slightly in that area to make it egg shaped there with smooth transitions, and have 3" the rest of the way. That's what we did for a bud's E92 anyway.
IIRC the original Mr.5 design used 2.5" tubing and saw no performance gain over the DCI. When Mr.5 went to 3" he saw a (admittedly slight) advantage. For some reason my engine bay had a little less room to move stuff around than the average, so I had to partly crush my tubing to fit also.
08-02-2013, 07:34 PM #5
Well, I already got the 2.5" hose and flange connector so I think I'm going to use them. Was thinking about getting one of these filters here:
So a 6" long filter should fit no problem right? Or should I go 7" long? The other measurements are 5.875" base diameter and 5.25 top diameter...I like the fact it's a cone filter. Also, did you do any ductwork to the bumper to direct airflow towards the filter? If I remember right, there's a plastic piece on driver's side that you could cut out (same piece is already cut out and ducting to oil cooler on passenger side).....
Last edited by nikitino25; 08-02-2013 at 07:40 PM.
08-03-2013, 12:03 AM #6
I wouldn't say anything will fit "no problem". It's a problem to make it fit, no question about it. You can make it fit but none of these that are worth anything just drop in like god intended it to be there.
The filter dimensions you listed ought to fit.
I removed the brake cooling duct. You can see my filter from outside the car through the bumper cover... no directing required.
08-03-2013, 01:05 AM #7
Repped, nice writeup! Still the best intake for stock frame turbos if you arn't dumb enough to get the Dinan.
08-03-2013, 01:56 AM #8
08-03-2013, 02:04 AM #9
On a side note I asked a Dinan rep if their intake fits on a coupe without removing the aforementioned structural bar/brace and he assured me that it does and it's not necessary to remove the bar/brace. I just don't see how it's possible. Anybody have the Dinan intake on a coupe and did you have to remove the bar or not?
08-03-2013, 03:57 AM #10
You don't have to remove the brace. Take a pic if you must and I'll put some high definition red arrows on it and show you what to do.
08-04-2013, 09:43 PM #11
No, I'm not going to remove the brace, that's why I got the 2.5" tube. I was just saying that I don't see how it would be possible to leave it in if you got the Dinan Intake. One more question though, did you rotate that tube or hose or whatever it is that T's off right beside the airbox where you cut the hole for the tube connector flange. I read somewhere that you had to do that and it looks like it would open up some room but I've tried to rotate mine a little without breaking it and it won't budge, I even had some pliers on it. How do you turn/rotate that plastic thing without breaking it? Also, what is it and how do u know you're not messing something up when you change it's orientation? The T section would go from straight down to sideways after you rotate it.....and did you shift over the brake fluid reservior for more room also? Anybody feel free to chime in...
08-04-2013, 10:34 PM #12
Yep. Pics incoming.
08-04-2013, 10:49 PM #13
Pic 1 shows that I did move the reservoir over 1 bolt hole. I almost made a metal brace to support it and may some day but it's not necessary. Note that you must chop off the brace under (and attached to) the piece my finger is on. It's an angle bar, the job of which is just to stiffen up the brake fluid reservoir foundation.
Pic 2 shows how I grabbed he easily-broken piece to rotate it. Be firm and steady and it'll rotate. I supported/assisted by rotating the forward most piece of the hose by hand.
Pic 3 shows how much I rotated it.