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  1. #151
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    Thank u for all your work and dedication!

  2. #152
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blackshan Click here to enlarge
    Thank u for all your work and dedication!
    HERE HERE! Alex is the man!

  3. #153
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    Alex, I want you to build a motor for me so bad...next project will be finding a spare motor to send your way. Right now those funds are going to trans work Click here to enlarge
    2009 335i coupe back to stock...for now

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  4. #154
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    I hear ya, lets do it whenever your ready!
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  5. #155
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    I hear ya, lets do it whenever your ready!
    Considering I'm putting the largest turbo kit yet on an N54....it's only a matter of time my friend...lol
    2009 335i coupe back to stock...for now

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  6. #156
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    Have any plans for deck strengthening outside of the ARP hardware and the minor stroke? Or do you think this will be sufficient for the ensuing impractical numbers already? Great work btw. Can't wait to see one of these break records.

  7. #157
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    I've yet to see a block that spits a head gasket or a cylinder that blows out- I think those little "pucks" are kind of a waste of time….. and we looked into making a plate that would turn it into a closed deck, but the amount of water port going into the head has thrown that out the window Click here to enlarge


    Oringing the head would a a real tight fit as well…. I think do-able, but difficult.
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  8. #158
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    Hm, so possibly not worth the effort putting the disc/rod things in?

    and wouldn't be possible to make a plate that takes the water ports into account? bugger.. hopefully it can take enough power as it is to satisfy everyone lol.. even so, even if you could mostly close it, would it just make the already hot-running motor run TOO hot?

    best not to worry about if if nothing can be done i guess? - though if there was something, i'm sure plenty of people would buy it just in case lol
    boop

  9. #159
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    I was at the shop working on a few things, and putting Flinchy's order together Click here to enlarge


    sorry, cell phone pics and it likes to take blurry ones lol




    This is a "motor plate"..... basically we bolt this to the engine and torque the studs, just like if the cylinder head was on- Then we do the machine work to the block. By doing this, it allows us to get a better cylinder, because its under tension- just like if the engine was assembled.
    BTW, that took us FOREVER to do- plotting the coordinates of the block, machining that plate and making sure it fit perfect..... All on a bridgeport and a DRO lol
    Click here to enlarge



    Head studs installed so we can test fit our motor plate.
    Click here to enlarge




    You are looking at a stroker N54 crank Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge


    Pic of it sitting on the crank straightener. We can get these cranks within .0005 normally. Both of these cranks we are stroking right now came in with .0025 warpage- pretty normal in the industry for a mass produced crankshaft. Stroking causes warpage, and after we get done with the crank they have to be straightened again. No big deal Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge




    So the next thing up for experiment (and stupid expensive/risky) to "fix" this floating deck-

    Darton sleeves.

    VERY time consuming to install.
    VERY expensive to put in.

    *but* it should fix the issue.

    I don't know how the block will react to the machine work- as in, I'm not sure if this will actually weaken or strengthen the block as a whole.
    Yes, we are getting rid of the open deck "issue" (that I personally have not seen let go/break/lift/blow out/etc).... and going to a "closed deck" system.....
    Yes we are putting in VERY tough sleeves that take HUGE amounts of stress.....

    BUT, does it weaken the block, since that material is pulled out and replaced with liners?
    Will it have enough coolant flow not to overheat?

    That is a very expensive question- And I don't know yet if its worth going down that road.

    I want to see a blown headgasket pushed out from too much boost.
    I want to see the side of a cylinder pushed out from too much pressure.
    I want to see these blocks damaged from too much power.
    Anyone have proof? Not crappy tuning or water or whatever, I'm talking about a solid tuned car that makes enough power to kill the factory designed block.

    Maybe when I get my E21 knocked out with the N54 and I hurt the factory stuff- I'll experiment on my own engine lol

    Here's a visual if you don't know how to google Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge




    BTW, I want my internals in some big power cars....
    So I'm sponsoring a few of these engines I'm building-

    Anyone who purchases my internals and shows some credible power over 750 wheel horsepower will get something REALLY cool Click here to enlarge
    Anyone who purchases my internals and shows some credible power over 1000 wheel horsepower will get something even cooler Click here to enlarge
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  10. #160
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    I was at the shop working on a few things, and putting Flinchy's order together
    That is one hell of an update man! Very nice!

    Awesome crank too... welding on extra material always warps the crank but if they are not true from the factory like you said, they need to be trued anyways. Can you share any specs meaning how much stroke was added?

    Really looking forward to seeing what the sleeved block will do... yes it's an expensive experiment, but someone's gotta do it Click here to enlarge

    Thanks for sharing, + rep!

  11. #161
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    NO NO NO! We are NOT welding on the cranks!


    We are stroking them and adding a little over half a liter to the engine displacement......... basically all we can get going from the BMW bearing to our bearing diameter.
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  12. #162
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    So the next thing up for experiment (and stupid expensive/risky) to "fix" this floating deck-

    Darton sleeves.

    VERY time consuming to install.
    VERY expensive to put in.

    *but* it should fix the issue.
    The reason why i have choosed chops injected between cylinders because they are very-very cost effective, do their jobs and cannot influence water around the cylinders....And on the other hand Darton did not undertake to make Darton sleeves (with shrouds) into my n54 open block, due to space restricitions. It does not worth it. So maybe those chops together with other mods still left on the table.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  13. #163
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by csl335i Click here to enlarge
    The reason why i have choosed chops injected between cylinders because they are very-very cost effective, do their jobs and cannot influence water around the cylinders....And on the other hand Darton did not undertake to make Darton sleeves (with shrouds) into my n54 open block, due to space restricitions. It does not worth it. So maybe those chops together with other mods still left on the table.
    And you did this to make your claimed 500-550 WHP which the stock block unmodified can do in its sleep for 10's of thousands of miles? Still doesn't make a lot of sense, Alex is building these motors to see 900 WHP+ and we are his first N54 built motor customer and will be pushing it to these levels. Putting those discs in and running it to 550 WHP proves nothing, as the block can handle that stock. Run it up over 750WHP and things will be more clear. I am also a little worried about the open deck design even with built internals. You can build the motor with the strongest pieces in the world, if the block cant handle it, it will fail. I guess we will see what happens, once we get our motor and push it to 40 PSI with a couple GTX2867's. Cant wait!!Click here to enlarge

  14. #164
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    I'd love to come up with a better solution to quell the "it may happen" scenario..... But the NG6 engines have not come to that "level" yet.
    We looked into making a closed deck, but it would take a lot of machining, and there are a TON of coolant ports on the cylinder head.

    We also looked into putting a full crankshaft thrust bearing in as well, but we came to the conclusion that putting a thrust on the bed plate would be a bad idea.... causing the bed plate to physically shift (possibly).......

    I would highly HIGHLY suggest- do what we do with our race cars, track cars and big power cars.... disable the clutch switch so you can start the car without the clutch being pushed in. That way you don't wear the thrust bearing out from lack of oil during start up.


    All we can do every morning is put one pant leg on at a time, and keep pushing the envelope.
    Last edited by alex@ABRhouston; 01-23-2014 at 12:05 PM.
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  15. #165
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    woah yet another awesome update!

    and you're getting that much extra stroke you're getting to 3.5+ liters? WOAH. If only i could add that with my budget. sigh. haha.. Then again, what sorta cost would we be talking here? haha.

    Is the deck plate critical for doing the bores? I mean.. I'd blindly prefer it, but if a shop here doesn't have it (even though i'll be trying ones that have already re-built many N54's) then i'm pretty much out of luck lol. And the cylinders don't warp as much in an open deck as closed deck do they? Another reason living over here is a hassle and wanting to modify this engine.

    If only i could also afford a single to push to your limits ASAP Click here to enlarge

    all i can do is promise i won't let the build go to waste long term Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    I'd love to come up with a better solution to quell the "it may happen" scenario..... But the NG6 engines have not come to that "level" yet.
    We looked into making a closed deck, but it would take a lot of machining, and there are a TON of coolant ports on the cylinder head.

    We also looked into putting a full crankshaft thrust bearing in as well, but we came to the conclusion that putting a thrust on the bed plate would be a bad idea.... causing the bed plate to physically shift (possibly).......

    I would highly HIGHLY suggest- do what we do with our race cars, track cars and big power cars.... disable the clutch switch so you can star the car without the clutch being pushed in. That way you don't wear the thrust bearing out from lack of oil during start up.


    All we can do every morning is put one pant leg on at a time, and keep pushing the envelope.
    It's almost unfortunate that no one has split a block/cylinder 'legitimately', as how would you even really be able to tell if the sleeved/closed block has helped enough for the cost? :/.. Roughly how much would it be for the sleeves and installation? couple of grand?

    Hopefully @VargasTurboTech will be able to shed some more light soon enough Click here to enlarge

    Do you know how complicated/difficult it would be to disable the clutch switch? or would it be easy/easier to rig it up to a temporary 'manual' switch with some easily visible wiring you flick then un-flick or something?
    Last edited by Flinchy; 01-12-2014 at 07:51 PM.
    boop

  16. #166
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    I mis-spoke. We went from a 2,979 cc 3.0 L; 181.8CID stock engine to a 3075cc 3.07 L 187.7CID.


    any displacement is good. its about a 3.2% gain in displacement..... so gain 3.2% in power...... so lets say 10hp on a 300-335 hp engine....
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  17. #167
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    I mis-spoke. We went from a 2,979 cc 3.0 L; 181.8CID stock engine to a 3075cc 3.07 L 187.7CID.


    any displacement is good. its about a 3.2% gain in displacement..... so gain 3.2% in power...... so lets say 10hp on a 300-335 hp engine....
    I was thinking.. but was going to wait for explanation in case of huge development haha

    considering getting to 3.5 with a +.25 overbore would mean a 104mm stroke or something!

    don't think you could complain about that, with probably no downsides.. is it a costly exercise? slightly different length rods or different pin height ?
    boop

  18. #168
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    We looked into making a closed deck, but it would take a lot of machining, and there are a TON of coolant ports on the cylinder head.
    It would be interesting to know the volume in the coolant passages in the N54 head vs. the coolant passages in the N55 head.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    none at all?

    that kinda sucks Click here to enlarge

    i guess they're not too small though, at least? haha
    N55 intakes are 1mm larger in diameter. Click here to enlarge

  20. #170
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by maxnix Click here to enlarge
    N55 intakes are 1mm larger in diameter. Click here to enlarge
    True

    would be interesting to see a ported/oversized N55 head side by side with a ported/oversized N54 head to see.
    boop

  21. #171
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    BTW, I want my internals in some big power cars....
    So I'm sponsoring a few of these engines I'm building-

    Anyone who purchases my internals and shows some credible power over 750 wheel horsepower will get something REALLY cool Click here to enlarge
    Anyone who purchases my internals and shows some credible power over 1000 wheel horsepower will get something even cooler Click here to enlarge
    More details? Or do I not want details so I go ahead and sell my 335 as planned...
    2010 e92 M3 Jet Black | DCT | ESS Tuned | Akrapovic Slip-on | Challenge X-pipe | AFE Intake | 18" Volk TE37SL | KW V3 Coilovers | RPI Scoops | Under Drive Pulley

    2007 e92 Mont. Blue 335i | 6MT | COBB Tuned | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Helix FMIC | AA DPs | HKS Exhaust | DCI | Stett CP w/ Forged DVs | KWv2 Coilovers | UUC Sway Bars & SSK | HPF Stg 2 Clutch | HFS-4 | M3 Suspension Bits | DEFIVfab Diff Lockdown Kit | Stoptech Trophy BBK

  22. #172
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    You do what you want with that car, john Click here to enlarge


    It will be a "thank you", that's all. A token of gratitude to push the envelope of the platform
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  23. #173
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    And you did this to make your claimed 500-550 WHP which the stock block unmodified can do in its sleep for 10's of thousands of miles? Still doesn't make a lot of sense, Alex is building these motors to see 900 WHP+ and we are his first N54 built motor customer and will be pushing it to these levels. Putting those discs in and running it to 550 WHP proves nothing, as the block can handle that stock. Run it up over 750WHP and things will be more clear. I am also a little worried about the open deck design even with built internals. You can build the motor with the strongest pieces in the world, if the block cant handle it, it will fail. I guess we will see what happens, once we get our motor and push it to 40 PSI with a couple GTX2867's. Cant wait!!Click here to enlarge
    good luck!

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    Such an exciting thread, amazing work ABR.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    I like your realistic, transparent aproach about sleeving the block. After watching several s54 sleeved blocks go wrong, your objective attitude will serve the n54 community well.

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