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  1. #26
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    Recent Rotella T6 5w-40 convert here too...we'll see eventually how it does
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  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@PTF Click here to enlarge
    Recent Rotella T6 5w-40 convert here too...we'll see eventually how it does
    Many subaru guys swear by this stuff!

  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by JoshBoody Click here to enlarge
    I remember a post from you pertaining to this some time ago, so I did a little research and concluded that your analysis may have been off. I think it had to do with starting versus measured TBN value. Higher TBN is NOT necessarily better, but keeping a high ratio relative to starting point is. I believe Mobile 1 starts with a lower value so comparing just the measurements between different oils would not be an accurate assessment. Anyway, I don't remember all the specifics. At the time I was considering a different oil, but decided to stick with Mobile 1 0-40.

    Well, that may be so, but you need certain amount of TBN remaining in the oil for it to protect effectively from the acidifying effects of blow-by gasses. Mobil1 just drops to near zero after 3000-4000 miles, meaning: your oil becomes too acidic.

    Other issues I've seen is higher content on fuel dilution, resulting in much lower oil flash point. Just bad juju over all..
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  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    Well, that may be so, but you need certain amount of TBN remaining in the oil for it to protect effectively from the acidifying effects of blow-by gasses. Mobil1 just drops to near zero after 3000-4000 miles, meaning: your oil becomes too acidic.

    Other issues I've seen is higher content on fuel dilution, resulting in much lower oil flash point. Just bad juju over all..
    How does it meet BMW's LL-01 req if this is true?

  5. #30
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    Well, that may be so, but you need certain amount of TBN remaining in the oil for it to protect effectively from the acidifying effects of blow-by gasses. Mobil1 just drops to near zero after 3000-4000 miles, meaning: your oil becomes too acidic.

    Other issues I've seen is higher content on fuel dilution, resulting in much lower oil flash point. Just bad juju over all..
    Which used oil analyses are you basing this information on?
    Eppur si muove.

  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@PTF Click here to enlarge
    Recent Rotella T6 5w-40 convert here too...we'll see eventually how it does
    How long are you going to go between changes?

  7. #32
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    according to this email mobile 1 sucks

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  8. #33
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    I'd like to see some feedback from people using Amsoil EFM.
    Eppur si muove.

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
    according to this email mobile 1 sucks
    Even if that chart is true I don't think it is for 0w40. There are I think 4 oils that meet BMW LL-01 req., Mobil1 0w40 is one of them. Hence I cannot figure out why it would break down as fast as others are claiming. It may be that it is only good for winter? IN that case the whole LL (long life) thing is pointless. It does make cold starts on sub zero deg F days much easier, which is the main reason I switched.

  10. #35
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    I am curious, both for people with stock and tuned 335i/135i cars - how does this car do with oil consumption? Sounds like if you have some play in the turbos, it's going to be more than the norm - I guess my question is what's the norm for this car?

    Would going to a thicker oil help with this? I know it robs power, but since you are adding stress by going above and beyond, curious if that would be beneficial.

  11. #36
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by inlineS54B32 Click here to enlarge
    I am curious, both for people with stock and tuned 335i/135i cars - how does this car do with oil consumption? Sounds like if you have some play in the turbos, it's going to be more than the norm - I guess my question is what's the norm for this car?

    Would going to a thicker oil help with this? I know it robs power, but since you are adding stress by going above and beyond, curious if that would be beneficial.
    I have 24,000 miles on my car. I do oil changes every 3-5k or 6 months (6 months usually comes first, I hardly drive it) with BMW Castrol. I haven't consumed any oil, ever. Oil level always reads full. My turbos have about 2,000 miles on them. I have no smoke.

    I really think proper warm up and cool down of both the car and turbos is crucial to not having these problems. I will let my car idle for a few minutes before driving it off when cold, don't get into boost (less than 1psi) until around 180F, and allow 3 minutes give or take for the car to cool down before I shut it off.

  12. #37
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    60k+ miles on mobil 0w-40. Burns about 1/4qrt every 3k miles. I do an oil change every 5k miles. No other problems
    Car has 110k miles fbo on e85...

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E90Company Click here to enlarge
    I really think proper warm up and cool down of both the car and turbos is crucial to not having these problems. I will let my car idle for a few minutes before driving it off when cold, don't get into boost (less than 1psi) until around 180F, and allow 3 minutes give or take for the car to cool down before I shut it off.
    Same here. I always make sure the engine has some heat in it before driving off and stay off boost until up to 160*. I also let the engine idle for at least 30-40 seconds after stopping or even more if spirited driving has been involved.

    On a side note, been using Mobil 1 0-40 at 5k-ish intervals and i have no oil consumption. Owned the car since 18k mikes, it has 47k on it now.
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  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    Which used oil analyses are you basing this information on?
    Blackstone Labs with TBN testing.
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  15. #40
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    after 3k miles on 0w40 it started to burn a bit. Changing back to OEM oil next week as I feel it was smoother on cold starts.
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  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    Blackstone Labs with TBN testing.
    I'm talking about a specific results sheet from Blackstone or Dyson. Also, did you add any make up oil between changes and did you same the oil from the middle of the drain after running the engine? I'm not calling BS, I would just like to see the UOA and find out a little more about this. As someone said above, the LL-01 specification requires extended drain intervals. It's shocking the Mobil 1 would have such a low TBN after such a short time.
    Eppur si muove.

  17. #42
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    If you're using Mobile 1 0-40, you will need to change your oil every 4-5k miles. That's what I do and the oil is pretty dirty at that interval.
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  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by nafoo Click here to enlarge
    If you're using Mobile 1 0-40, you will need to change your oil every 4-5k miles. That's what I do and the oil is pretty dirty at that interval.
    That's when I usually do it.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    I'm talking about a specific results sheet from Blackstone or Dyson. Also, did you add any make up oil between changes and did you same the oil from the middle of the drain after running the engine? I'm not calling BS, I would just like to see the UOA and find out a little more about this. As someone said above, the LL-01 specification requires extended drain intervals. It's shocking the Mobil 1 would have such a low TBN after such a short time.
    Your reasoning is sound. I will dig up through my files on my laptop and see if I kept the PDFs with the oil analisys. I'll post them as soon as I find them.
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  20. #45
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    We use Liqui-moly oil at the shop, and have had fantastic results with it. It's LL01/LL04 compliant.

    i do oil analysis samples at the shop as well, and we like what we see.
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    Thanks for all the information guys, spread some rep around. As of right now my plan is to just use the OEM oil as I've been happy with it.

  22. #47
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    We use Liqui-moly oil at the shop, and have had fantastic results with it. It's LL01/LL04 compliant.

    i do oil analysis samples at the shop as well, and we like what we see.
    Reviving an old thread, but recently came across some Liqui-moly oil.

    For N54, which weight do you guys use and recommend? 0W30 or 0W40?

  23. #48
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    Sounds weird- but we've moved from Liqui-moly now to Motul- better results, better oil analysis.

    WE use 10w40 out here, cause it never gets cold.
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    I think that, if you look hard enough, you can find a test that claims that extra extra virgin olive oil is better than all the rest.

    I also used the BMW oil for the first 30k miles with good results. I did not like that the oil looked terrible coming out of the container and assumed there must be better oil, but I never had any problems with it on a 7,500 mile change interval.

    I switched to the 10/30 Mobil 1 extended performance and it seemed to work pretty good too. They I started reading the turbo threads here bashing Mobil 1 for being the worst and decided to do some more research and pick something else. There was an analysis that said that the brand was less important than making sure that the oil had the A3/B4 certification that is required by our engines. One of the few oils that had that certification was the 0/40 Castrol Edge full synthetic (black container). It is supposed to be the "European" specification oil.
    I have not noticed any problems with this either.

  25. #50
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    What about adding an additive to Mobil 1 0W40?

    For the price, 0W40 seems to have good zinc content. It's only like $22/5 quarts at Walmart, hard to beat that. But I suppose an additive would be an easy any also inexpensive way to increase zinc/phosphorus content.

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