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  1. #1
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    Noise & then power loss no codes - where to start looking?

    Was accelerating from stoplight. Heard a noise - not a bang but definitely something unusual seemed to come from exhaust but not sure. Then lost boost and have low power now but no codes. Car seems to be breathing differently. Drives but nothing up top.

    I've been running Cobb stage 2+ FMIC FBO.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    You popped a coupling. Pretty standard. Under hood remove air box check charge pipe couplings. Check throttle body & fmic up pipe. If you don't find anything there then remove the engine splash plate. Check the FMIC couplings. If you don't find something there you have a more exotic issue.
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    You popped a coupling. Pretty standard. Under hood remove air box check charge pipe couplings. Check throttle body & fmic up pipe. If you don't find anything there then remove the engine splash plate. Check the FMIC couplings. If you don't find something there you have a more exotic issue.
    "exotic issue" i like that.




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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E90SoFlo Click here to enlarge
    "exotic issue" i like that.
    Sound like charge pipe connection to me. Could be any of the air induction system couplings though, including the Diverter Valve connections.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    You popped a coupling. Pretty standard. Under hood remove air box check charge pipe couplings. Check throttle body & fmic up pipe. If you don't find anything there then remove the engine splash plate. Check the FMIC couplings. If you don't find something there you have a more exotic issue.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by CBR335 Click here to enlarge
    Sound like charge pipe connection to me. Could be any of the air induction system couplings though, including the Diverter Valve connections.
    +1
    However, i'm very surprised it didn't throw a 30FF and limp.
    Click here to enlarge
    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

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    Thanks very much for the responses. As soon as I am back home (on a trip) I will check the connections mentioned. I was surprised I didn't get a code too.

    I do feel a bit better with it likely being an easy fix... though I kind of had hoped initially I'd destroyed the turbo(s) --- so that I could get a VTT Stage 2. Maybe next time.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lucad Click here to enlarge
    Thanks very much for the responses. As soon as I am back home (on a trip) I will check the connections mentioned. I was surprised I didn't get a code too.

    I do feel a bit better with it likely being an easy fix... though I kind of had hoped initially I'd destroyed the turbo(s) --- so that I could get a VTT Stage 2. Maybe next time.
    Check it now. Don't wait, plumbing issues can cascade into something worse.
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    Check it now. Don't wait, plumbing issues can cascade into something worse.
    I was on a business trip - left the 135i in the garage - not going to drive it till fixed.

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    So here is a picture I guess where the charge pipe connects it has come off. Missing a clamp?? Don't know what it looked like before.

    Should I replace the charge pipe? With a better aftermarket version. Recommendations on one if so?

    Click here to enlarge

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    Yep, there's a metal clip that slots into that groove. I recommend going with an aftermarket CP anytime you start pushing much more than stage 1 levels of boost.

    Unfortunately, as far as I know all the aftermarket CPs require you to reuse the metal clip you're missing so you'll need to order one from the dealer.
    Click here to enlarge
    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

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    I bought a CPe charge pipe/bov combination from bms, it's pricey but takes care of both the stock cp and stock diverter valves. Plus the bov sounds great!
    Click here to enlarge
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lucad Click here to enlarge
    So here is a picture I guess where the charge pipe connects it has come off. Missing a clamp?? Don't know what it looked like before.

    Should I replace the charge pipe? With a better aftermarket version. Recommendations on one if so?
    BMS/CPE works well. this issue seems to happen on N54s but it's a lot more common on N55s. You need the large metal retaining clip (check the lower belly panels under the engine!) and check the o-ring on the OEM pipe is undamaged as you need both. Otherwise just order the oring and ring from tischer or local dealer. You really don't need diverters/BOV unless pushing high boost but some do change them.

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    Thanks guys. I have TurboSmart diverters on here already - though don't know how they compare to other brands. I bet the dealership will make me buy a whole new oem chargepipe just for the clip. I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope to find it in the panels below.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    You popped a coupling. Pretty standard. Under hood remove air box check charge pipe couplings. Check throttle body & fmic up pipe. If you don't find anything there then remove the engine splash plate. Check the FMIC couplings. If you don't find something there you have a more exotic issue.
    How the hell you diagnosed that so fast based on what was presented I have no idea. Props, repped.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    How the hell you diagnosed that so fast based on what was presented I have no idea. Props, repped.
    Too much 'bonding time' with my car.
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    Too much 'bonding time' with my car.
    No such thing as too much.
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    So the flange where the charge pipe couples with the throttle body was quite damaged as seen below. The plastic there is also brittle - I broke more off with my fingers. Additionally the clip for the MAP sensor is so delicate that it broke as I manipulated it to get that connection unclipped. It's hard to unclip the sensor given it's location and no play in the wires. I'm not that heavy handed so others removing their charge pipes need to take care. Definitely going with a metal aftermarket pipe.

    Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

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    Did find my c clip though Click here to enlarge

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    Time for a new charge pipe!




  20. #20
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    The trick with the map sensor is to slip a screwdriver / spatula under the connector first.
    Many people use a USB connector because it's size is 'perfect' for getting under the tab.

    Breaking it off isn't such a big deal, though.
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

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