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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bobS Click here to enlarge
    Hmm I thought I read nothing but good stuff about HPF, maybe that was in relation to the feel and engagement of the clutch, rather than drag strip performance.....

    I know this topic has been discussed but I was hoping for updates and maybe some reviews on current setups. I personally hate "sticky" threads bc they get long and aren't updated.
    especially on this forum where you can't edit after 10 mins- can't edit the OP with new info.
    boop

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bobS Click here to enlarge
    Hmm I thought I read nothing but good stuff about HPF, maybe that was in relation to the feel and engagement of the clutch, rather than drag strip performance.....
    A good amount of negative stuff behind the scenes kept off the forums unfortunately.

    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
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  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    especially on this forum where you can't edit after 10 mins- can't edit the OP with new info.
    You can edit, just ask for one.

    The problem with edits is nobody is updated with an edit whereas with a new post you are.

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  4. #29
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    @Bobs

    you could always just go DUAL clutch

    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    @Bobs

    you could always just go DUAL clutch

    Click here to enlarge
    HAA , yup, in a 2014 m4Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge
    ESS 6XX kit

  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    You can edit, just ask for one.

    The problem with edits is nobody is updated with an edit whereas with a new post you are.
    i did have a thought you'd have the ability to enable editing post by post where needed

    fair enough.

    i'm not complaining about that system in general, it's good, makes you commit to your posts.
    boop

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    i'm not complaining about that system in general, it's good, makes you commit to your posts.
    Exactly.

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  8. #33
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    I agree who wants there new clutch set up to rattle wtf this car sounds like s@#$ as it is with the noisy motor/injectors
    needless pay another 1000+just for it to sound worse. im going with the dmfw till my hp level changes 500wt right now and my stock set up is still holding but barely im sure after a track run or two this summer its gone so unless someone gives me better reviews on something else its spec 2+with oem dmfw.

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cwarren Click here to enlarge
    I agree who wants there new clutch set up to rattle wtf this car sounds like s@#$ as it is with the noisy motor/injectors
    needless pay another 1000+just for it to sound worse. im going with the dmfw till my hp level changes 500wt right now and my stock set up is still holding but barely im sure after a track run or two this summer its gone so unless someone gives me better reviews on something else its spec 2+with oem dmfw.
    We put over 5000 miles and prob 1000 WOT pulls on the street and dyno with power ranging from 600-725 WHP and the DMFW is fine. We put a spec 3+ and aluminum SMFW in a customers stage 2 car and it was pretty noisy, but its his track car. Just an FYI if you are worried about the DMFW at 500 WT from my experience, there is no need to be

  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    We put over 5000 miles and prob 1000 WOT pulls on the street and dyno with power ranging from 600-725 WHP and the DMFW is fine. We put a spec 3+ and aluminum SMFW in a customers stage 2 car and it was pretty noisy, but its his track car. Just an FYI if you are worried about the DMFW at 500 WT from my experience, there is no need to be
    you got those false misfires though no? but disabled the detection?

    why do people say SMFW's are noisy?

    my stock N52 6MT one chatters like crazy clutch in... and i thought it was a dual mass too? noisiest flywheel i've ever used, louder than any 90's japanese/domestic car..... but every EVERY other car i've ever driven has a single mass and they're quiet

    civic's, lancer's, evo's, v8 chev's, skyline's.. hilux, patrol, landcruiser, navara... not ONE have i heard a super noisy flywheel in

    why does the N54 specifically make a ton of noise with their single mass.???
    boop

  11. #36
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    This is actually very interesting to me. This is the best post that I have read all day, given that I'm in the 400 wheel range with a dual mass flywheel. Click here to enlarge

    I feel even better about my purchase! The Stage 2+ will have its limitations in torque, but, holy crap, this car is fast enough. My car will get me into trouble if I'm not careful. I'm sure many people on these forums feels the same way about their cars.\

    I am curious to know how to solved the misfire problem with the dual mass getting twisted so much.

  12. #37
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I had an ACT Street when it was raved about, held fine then started slipping after 10-12k ish miles. However at that price point I wasn't too fussed.

    I had a HPF Stage 2 when it was raved about, was no where near as smooth as it was shown to be in the Youtube video that they put out and it juddered like crazy on engagement. Smooth as butter was how they described it, maybe if the butter had glass shards in it....... I wouldn't have minded about it but I felt that I had been lied to. It ended up welding itself to the FW shortly after I put in a Spec Alu SMFW (had high RPM misfires so changed over).

    I now have Spec stage 3+ with steel SMFW. If noise/vibration is your concern then stick with the DMF. There is a bit of rattle at idle and under load at low revs but the fact that I knew this before has probably made me accept it. The judder is getting a bit better but when you need a clutch to hold this much power there is always a compromise.

    Thank f*ck I can change the clutch myself.
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  13. #38
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    I have decided to buy spec stage3 +, but I worry about the noise and rattle.


    Tony advised to be SMFW, but if you say it is noisy, I would not like have it. There is DMFW that hold the same power of SMFW?

  14. #39
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    No. DMFW will cause high RPM misfires with high HP. If you want big power SMFW is the only way to go. If you're not upgrading turbos DMFW will be fine.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


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    I've had the act hdsd clutch and dmfw and is a very weak setup. I really hated the pedal feel, lower engagement point (made it hard for quick shifts) and it couldn't hold my cobb e30 ots map after a while. I purchased the spec stage 3+ with steel flywheel from PTF. I put more than 2000miles on my new setup and I really like the spec compared with my old Act. It takes a little bit to get used to the spec stg3+ because it is very grabby and it makes it a bit difficult to start from a stand still. After break-in period the spec feels a lot better, it's very smooth, grabs like crazy. I had my throw out bearing set up on the high setting so the engagement point is higher, i can shift faster now compared with the lower engagement point of the act. The spec stage 3+ with steel fw is a very good option for the money. This clutch has some chatter at idle and it'll make some noise but at least is going to hold whatever you throw at it. You have to compromise.

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    [QUOTE=bigdnno98;462235]DMFW will cause high RPM misfires with high HP./QUOTE]

    On the other hand, NO ONE switching from a dual-mass flywheel to a single mass flywheel reported a fix for the misfires, so maybe the OEM flywheel was not at fault after all. So, let's wait for at least a couple of confirmation first...

  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    No. DMFW will cause high RPM misfires with high HP. If you want big power SMFW is the only way to go. If you're not upgrading turbos DMFW will be fine.
    Completely disagree with this. Sure if you want to go SMFW there is no reason not to. But, It has not been proven 1 way or the other if the DMFW causes misfires, and I guess 725 WHP isn't high HP or upgraded turbos....Click here to enlarge

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    you got those false misfires though no? but disabled the detection?

    why do people say SMFW's are noisy?

    my stock N52 6MT one chatters like crazy clutch in... and i thought it was a dual mass too? noisiest flywheel i've ever used, louder than any 90's japanese/domestic car..... but every EVERY other car i've ever driven has a single mass and they're quiet

    civic's, lancer's, evo's, v8 chev's, skyline's.. hilux, patrol, landcruiser, navara... not ONE have i heard a super noisy flywheel in

    why does the N54 specifically make a ton of noise with their single mass.???
    I am ONLY speaking from my experience with the DMFW and a high HP engine and that it didn't give us any issues at all as far as reliability.
    Last edited by Tony@VargasTurboTech; 05-30-2013 at 09:53 AM.

  19. #44
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    Completely disagree with this. Sure if you want to go SMFW there is no reason not to. But, It has not been proven 1 way or the other if the DMFW causes misfires, and I guess 725 WHP isn't high HP or upgraded turbos....Click here to enlarge
    Did PTF disable misfire detection for the stg 3 car?

  20. #45
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    I had misfire detection disabled for Tony's VT3 car as there were misfires up in the high RPMs in the beginning of our testing. Lots was done during that period he just forgot about it. It remained off for the entire duration of our testing. I don't turn it off unless the car starts to exhibit the usual high rpm full load misfire symptoms on bank2 cylinders and only once the usual coils/plugs/injectors have already been dealt with. If you want to mod this car you've simply got two facts when it comes to 6MTs, DMFW will eventually start to vibrate or fail, single mass flywheels will exhibit chatter but will run smooth and have no chance of catastrophic failure like DMFWs do during high RPM launches with full torque. Its like anything else, big turbo big power but you get more lag, taller gears less shifting but less torque multiplication and less acceleration...its all a fine balance of things anything you do with cars and why manufacturers spend years making things work and hold together reasonably well so driver's can beat on the cars and not have the cars on the lifts all the time all the while enjoying their driving experience to the fullest. These are all the reasons why no one should ever buy a mod without good research into how it works and what it does to the car. Even then though having personal experience with things just can't replace a forum or a google search but more education on anything never hurt anyone and there are always pros and cons to everything Click here to enlarge
    Last edited by dzenno@PTF; 05-30-2013 at 10:45 AM.
    Click here to enlarge

  21. #46
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    mmm didn't think so - only OSG for N54 is the twin plate from advan which isn't even for sale properly yet...

    what do you think of the CM twin plate? - any more to add?
    Advan was 'non-responsive' when I tried contacting them for their dual disk FW. So I did 'bark up that tree.' Not sure what's going on with their company but nobody responded to my multiple inquiries.

    The CM twin is currently the only solution for high power levels if you want to do it right the first time. Grip / Modulation / Etc it's great, holding power no problem. Rattle is present.

    You bang out no-lift high RPM shifts all day and the car lunges forward like crazy every time. Clutch doesn't show signs of stopping.

    If you do decide to go with CM keep the following in mind:
    They don't stock the 6 bolt FW version. As you're outside of NA you likely have a 6-bolt. My car is NA and had a 6-bolt.
    It took them over a month to manufacture my 6 bolt, they blew their time estimates (which is typical.)
    They shipped the wrong clutch pack, which caused the clutch to seize once it was finally installed (after a month of downtime.)

    So, before you buy CM verify the FW type. Triple check with CM.
    Once you receive your clutch, verify that the clutch pack looks like "everyone else's."
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  22. #47
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    ^ This or you can just go with SPEC Stage 2+ or 3+ with the steel or aluminum flywheel depending on your chatter appetite, less with the steel version, quite a bit cheaper too...both 6 and 8 bolt versions are available and are holding up very well to 'spirited' driving. SPEC builds all the clutches to order, takes about 3-4 business days to ship in most cases
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    ^ This or you can just go with SPEC Stage 2+ or 3+ with the steel or aluminum flywheel depending on your chatter appetite, less with the steel version, quite a bit cheaper too...both 6 and 8 bolt versions are available and are holding up very well to 'spirited' driving. SPEC builds all the clutches to order, takes about 3-4 business days to ship in most cases
    +1 I have a spec 2+ with the aluminum flywheel going in in a week or two.

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    3 out of 3 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I can attest from personal experience that the DMFW caused the high-RPM, high TQ misfires, and that DMFW failed quite dramatically on my car. I had an ACT HDSD+DMFW which began slipping badly after a couple of passes at the strip. Now mind you, I had begun to experience the high RPM misfires nearly 7 months prior, which had only gotten progressively worse, and I began to notice a SMFW-like rattle at idle about 3 months after I first began getting misfires. I switched tunes, and absolutely nothing changed it. By the time the clutch died, it would misfire on 5/6 (and occasionally 4) like clockwork above 6300 RPM, and outside the car, it sounded like I had fully committed to the SMFW, as it rattled noticeably. Only way to make those misfires go away was to go to a more tame (non boosa) tune. Plugs, coilpacks, injectors didn't fix it, my valves are sparkling clean, etc, etc. When we got the trans off, applying one finger worth of pressure on the ACT PP/clutch/DMFW assembly would make the DMFW wobble on itself with ease. I have video evidence of such, am uploading it as we speak. When we got it out on the ground, I was able to use that DMFW like one of those balance boards that people use to train themselves for skateboarding/snowboarding...it had failed that badly. We put in the Spec 3+ and Steel SMFW, and I can now wind it out to 7200 all day long. So I drove in the shop with a car that couldn't go over 6300 no matter what I did (control), and changed only three items: the FW, the clutch, and the stretch bolts which hold the trans to the block (hypothesis/variables). I only mention the stretch bolts to try and appease confirmation bias-happy conspiracy theorists. Result of the experiment: a car that would happily rev to 7200 afterward. As it applies to my car (which is a 6 bolt car, perhaps you 8 bolt guys have stronger DMFWs or something), I would call that a successful experiment. You all can take that for what it's worth.
    Click here to enlarge

  25. #50
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DefactoM6 Click here to enlarge
    I can attest from personal experience that the DMFW caused the high-RPM, high TQ misfires, and that DMFW failed quite dramatically on my car. I had an ACT HDSD+DMFW which began slipping badly after a couple of passes at the strip. Now mind you, I had begun to experience the high RPM misfires nearly 7 months prior, which had only gotten progressively worse, and I began to notice a SMFW-like rattle at idle about 3 months after I first began getting misfires. I switched tunes, and absolutely nothing changed it. By the time the clutch died, it would misfire on 5/6 (and occasionally 4) like clockwork above 6300 RPM, and outside the car, it sounded like I had fully committed to the SMFW, as it rattled noticeably. Only way to make those misfires go away was to go to a more tame (non boosa) tune. Plugs, coilpacks, injectors didn't fix it, my valves are sparkling clean, etc, etc. When we got the trans off, applying one finger worth of pressure on the ACT PP/clutch/DMFW assembly would make the DMFW wobble on itself with ease. I have video evidence of such, am uploading it as we speak. When we got it out on the ground, I was able to use that DMFW like one of those balance boards that people use to train themselves for skateboarding/snowboarding...it had failed that badly. We put in the Spec 3+ and Steel SMFW, and I can now wind it out to 7200 all day long. So I drove in the shop with a car that couldn't go over 6300 no matter what I did (control), and changed only three items: the FW, the clutch, and the stretch bolts which hold the trans to the block (hypothesis/variables). I only mention the stretch bolts to try and appease confirmation bias-happy conspiracy theorists. Result of the experiment: a car that would happily rev to 7200 afterward. As it applies to my car (which is a 6 bolt car, perhaps you 8 bolt guys have stronger DMFWs or something), I would call that a successful experiment. You all can take that for what it's worth.
    Great explanation, same happened to my car, went through the same headaches replacing many usual suspects with nothing helping it. Ended up turning off misfire detection which made me realize the car wasn't actually misfiring and it was falsely triggered by something. Once more people started to experience the same symptoms with their higher powered 6MTs someone finally hooked up a scope to the CPS signal and recorded it on a dyno. I assumed it wasn't from there as Shiv was up here trying to fix the misfires and even with his scope hooked up he never mentioned signal noise rising probably because he wasn't looking for it but was concentrating on troubleshooting the misfires as they were happening because of some hardware on the procede unit as well and were affecting 6ATs too. Huge mess overall. I'm just glad we now know what "could" be causing it when its not plugs/coils/injectors.
    Click here to enlarge

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