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  1. #1
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    Custom Fabricated Oil Cooler

    Garth @undercover is starting to draw up some plans for a custom oil cooler. There is no secret that the oil coolers on the market current are extremely overpriced (BMW tax much?), $800 minimum for essentially a few hoses and fittings with a radiator is crazy. We are looking to put a kit together in the next few weeks, we will log oil temps on the current setup (currently equipped with BMS Low temp thermostat) and with the custom kit and post logs to show cooling improvements. In addition we are looking into a AT transmission cooler as well, we will look into this more when Garth has my car next week and installs my Nitrous Express kit. More details to follow.
    SYVECS Standalone l Motiv Port Injection with Fuel It Stage 3 LPFP l MFactory LSD l CFS Racing Radiator l m3 front and rear control arms l ST Coilover System Vargas Stage 2+ Fully Upgraded Turbos l Vargas Inlet System l VRSF DP | VRSF FMIC | Alpina TCM Flash | BMS Trunk Meth l Nitrous Express Dry l Evolution Raceworks Charge Pipe with n20/meth bungs l Vargas HPFP Upgrade v1 l Agency Power Exhaust with n55 mid pipes l Apex AERO-7 Lightweight Wheels l Toyo R888s



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    Sounds awesome, I really need to buy the oil filter housing and do a retrofit on my non oil cooled e90.
    08 328i, totaled by women driver
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    What oil cooler will you be using? Setrab?
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    yeah the oil cooler does wonders for temps especially with the BMS low temp mod. My temps stay very low typically, I am just wanting to safe guard myself against the summers in TX since the ambient can be (is) over 100 F.
    SYVECS Standalone l Motiv Port Injection with Fuel It Stage 3 LPFP l MFactory LSD l CFS Racing Radiator l m3 front and rear control arms l ST Coilover System Vargas Stage 2+ Fully Upgraded Turbos l Vargas Inlet System l VRSF DP | VRSF FMIC | Alpina TCM Flash | BMS Trunk Meth l Nitrous Express Dry l Evolution Raceworks Charge Pipe with n20/meth bungs l Vargas HPFP Upgrade v1 l Agency Power Exhaust with n55 mid pipes l Apex AERO-7 Lightweight Wheels l Toyo R888s



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    Setrab or Earls would be good choices. I am happy with my custom Earl's setup.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    Setrab or Earls would be good choices. I am happy with my custom Earl's setup.
    Picks/details of your setup?
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

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    Glad to see some more development! Gl OP
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Njz Click here to enlarge
    Garth @undercover is starting to draw up some plans for a custom oil cooler. There is no secret that the oil coolers on the market current are extremely overpriced (BMW tax much?), $800 minimum for essentially a few hoses and fittings with a radiator is crazy. We are looking to put a kit together in the next few weeks, we will log oil temps on the current setup (currently equipped with BMS Low temp thermostat) and with the custom kit and post logs to show cooling improvements. In addition we are looking into a AT transmission cooler as well, we will look into this more when Garth has my car next week and installs my Nitrous Express kit. More details to follow.
    any chance there's plans for a dual cooler setup?

    i'd like a dual setup but only know of one available.. and it's pretty expensive lol :/
    boop

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    Setrab or Earls would be good choices. I am happy with my custom Earl's setup.
    earls as in the australian company earls?

    or is there another one?

    quick search suggests Mocal over either setrab or earls, and PWR sucks.
    boop

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    any chance there's plans for a dual cooler setup?

    i'd like a dual setup but only know of one available.. and it's pretty expensive lol :/
    I will speak with garth about this, we are looking to add a second oil cooler (in addition to the factory on already in place) and also a tranny cooler. I should have a lot more information early next week when I head back for nitrous, tuning and dyno testing (in better conditions than last time :O )
    SYVECS Standalone l Motiv Port Injection with Fuel It Stage 3 LPFP l MFactory LSD l CFS Racing Radiator l m3 front and rear control arms l ST Coilover System Vargas Stage 2+ Fully Upgraded Turbos l Vargas Inlet System l VRSF DP | VRSF FMIC | Alpina TCM Flash | BMS Trunk Meth l Nitrous Express Dry l Evolution Raceworks Charge Pipe with n20/meth bungs l Vargas HPFP Upgrade v1 l Agency Power Exhaust with n55 mid pipes l Apex AERO-7 Lightweight Wheels l Toyo R888s



  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Njz Click here to enlarge
    I will speak with garth about this, we are looking to add a second oil cooler (in addition to the factory on already in place) and also a tranny cooler. I should have a lot more information early next week when I head back for nitrous, tuning and dyno testing (in better conditions than last time :O )
    awesome, looking forward to it!

    if a dual oil cooler does end up an offered product for less than ER's offering (one in front of each wheel arch just so we're on the same page lol), put me down for one Click here to enlarge - im more after an upgrade of the factory one AND a second one though
    boop

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    @Terry@BMS

    I just saw your oil cooler thermostat mod and I am having hard time understanding why would you have this part anodized/painted in any color. What happens if the paint cracks/chips and pieces of it enter the oil system?
    From all the things I've lost,
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    buy a hayden/B&M, install inline with current coolers, buy some lines, log, done.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    earls as in the australian company earls?

    or is there another one?

    quick search suggests Mocal over either setrab or earls, and PWR sucks.
    Division of Holley.

    http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=earls

    My setup is very similar to the DIY oil cooler found on the other site by user "boom". It just uses AN lines to connect the oil to air cooler to the oil thermostat housing, and sits in front of the passenger wheel. The below picture is not mine, but the concept is the same. It's a 34 row narrow cooler, something like 8x11 inches.

    Click here to enlarge
    Eppur si muove.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    @Terry@BMS

    I just saw your oil cooler thermostat mod and I am having hard time understanding why would you have this part anodized/painted in any color. What happens if the paint cracks/chips and pieces of it enter the oil system?
    Anodizing isn't the same as painting, it's an oxide coating which will not chip or peel off. It's done to increase surface durability of the part in terms of corrosion/wear resistance, among other benefits.
    H O O N

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    Transmission cooler would be awesome, as long as it's comptible with other cooling upgrades such as PPK radiator (space contraints...)!!
    E92 335i SB / Black Leather / 6AT / Navi Prof / Sunroof / Active Steering
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Snertz Click here to enlarge
    Anodizing isn't the same as painting, it's an oxide coating which will not chip or peel off. It's done to increase surface durability of the part in terms of corrosion/wear resistance, among other benefits.
    Click here to enlarge All fine and dandy here. If the piece is made out of aluminium, I see no reason why it would be coated. I mean, the entire oil filter housing is non-coated aluminium. Also, not trying to be a prick here, but hard anodizing is not that durable as people think it is.

    So I ask again: why coat something that is made out of metal which is constantly submerged in oil?
    From all the things I've lost,
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge All fine and dandy here. If the piece is made out of aluminium, I see no reason why it would be coated. I mean, the entire oil filter housing is non-coated aluminium. Also, not trying to be a prick here, but hard anodizing is not that durable as people think it is.

    So I ask again: why coat something that is made out of metal which is constantly submerged in oil?
    lol true, could be just for cosmetic value.
    H O O N

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    So I ask again: why coat something that is made out of metal which is constantly submerged in oil?
    Because people like shiny things?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    Division of Holley.

    http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=earls

    My setup is very similar to the DIY oil cooler found on the other site by user "boom". It just uses AN lines to connect the oil to air cooler to the oil thermostat housing, and sits in front of the passenger wheel. The below picture is not mine, but the concept is the same. It's a 34 row narrow cooler, something like 8x11 inches.

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...30105e61-1.jpg
    ahh

    http://www.earls.com.au/about-us

    looks like it's owned by earls australia now, sounds like a good option!

    is there any challenge in MOUNTING the cooler - i've never seen the DIY, might have to check it out because a relatively easy DIY would be right up my alley haha
    boop

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Snertz Click here to enlarge
    Anodizing isn't the same as painting, it's an oxide coating which will not chip or peel off. It's done to increase surface durability of the part in terms of corrosion/wear resistance, among other benefits.
    yah, it's not a THICK layer on the outside, and it has a satin finish

    unlike powdercoating which is glossy (or semi-matte,and can pitted if you get hammercoating, among other finishes) and a thick protective layer which can chip (but no more easily than anodizing can be scraped up)
    boop

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
    Because people like shiny things?
    Yes, but:

    1. This shiny thing will not see any daylight at all once installed
    2. You are running a risk that the shiny thing will chip and the paint chips will mix with the oil which could lead to all kinds of "glorious" issues
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge All fine and dandy here. If the piece is made out of aluminium, I see no reason why it would be coated. I mean, the entire oil filter housing is non-coated aluminium. Also, not trying to be a prick here, but hard anodizing is not that durable as people think it is.

    So I ask again: why coat something that is made out of metal which is constantly submerged in oil?
    can it chip/flake off easily? i always thought it was done for protection against various effects/corrosion (though MOST of it would be coated in oil haha)- also to look super pretty lol
    boop

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    Yes, but:

    1. This shiny thing will not see any daylight at all once installed
    2. You are running a risk that the shiny thing will chip and the paint chips will mix with the oil which could lead to all kinds of "glorious" issues
    it seems like as long as it's the right alloy and the anodising process isn't screwed up, it should never ever flake off (physically impossible?) since it's not actually paint, it's more like powdercoating but even stronger no?
    boop

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    It was already posted earlier; anodizing can't chip or flake.

    It is a chemical reaction with the surface of the metal. You would have to scratch or sand the actual metal surface off of the part to remove the color.

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