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  1. #51
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RTA Click here to enlarge
    I'm dealing with a similar issue. Somebody suggested that it could be vacuum related and might be brakefluid pushed into the engine by the brake vacuum system?
    What do you think about this idea? This would lead to a strange kind of smell, as in my case the fume does really smells like oil.
    I think that idea is absurd.

    Because the N54 is a forced induction engine, the designers had to incorporate a totally separate vacuum pump for the power brakes and waste gate control because intake manifold vacuum cannot be relied upon considering it goes positive sometimes (like when the turbos are creating "boost"). Furthermore, brake boosters are designed in a way that completely separates the vacuum applied to them from the brake fluid.

    There is no direct link between the intake manifold and the inside of your engine to the brake fluid reservoir.
    Eppur si muove.

  2. #52
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    Ok.. clear... the idea behind this was that in my case the smoke is only popping up when:

    - Engine is not complete heated up
    - After and during stop and start traffic (a lot of short braking)
    - Increased when holding on a highway ramp (Driving slightly upwards, so not in horizontal position)

    Never: when the engine is hot, and under turbo pressure.

  3. #53
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    Do you have catalyst free downpipes?
    Eppur si muove.

  4. #54
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    Yes, FBO +RB's.

  5. #55
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RTA Click here to enlarge
    Ok.. clear... the idea behind this was that in my case the smoke is only popping up when:

    - Engine is not complete heated up
    - After and during stop and start traffic (a lot of short braking)
    - Increased when holding on a highway ramp (Driving slightly upwards, so not in horizontal position)

    Never: when the engine is hot, and under turbo pressure.
    '

    You issue sounds more pcv related.. How much smoke are you seeing? How is the car running? Do you go through oil?
    08 328i, totaled by women driver
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  6. #56
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mikolo-n54 Click here to enlarge
    '

    You issue sounds more pcv related.. How much smoke are you seeing? How is the car running? Do you go through oil?
    That is also my thought, PCV, white light blueish smoke, now and then like a bad running old diesel but no black smoke, only white blueish with a strange kind "spicey" smell. Car run's top.. perfect AFR, no timing drops. Car uses oil, at least more then my former one. I'm currently measuring, sofar it used 1/5 of the oil in about 600-700km... (although my oil sensor throws a warning error now and then).
    I studied the sensor / oil measuring system and only the max and low are hard/fixed measure points, rest is done by the sensor which can be off. My approach is to measure how much milage it takes to get to the low level.

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    3 out of 3 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge

    Theres a pic of the warranty work done for the valve stem seals. @ajm8127

    Car definitely feels smother all around. Lets see what happens when I install the dp's.
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  8. #58
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RTA Click here to enlarge
    That is also my thought, PCV, white light blueish smoke, now and then like a bad running old diesel but no black smoke, only white blueish with a strange kind "spicey" smell. Car run's top.. perfect AFR, no timing drops. Car uses oil, at least more then my former one. I'm currently measuring, sofar it used 1/5 of the oil in about 600-700km... (although my oil sensor throws a warning error now and then).
    I studied the sensor / oil measuring system and only the max and low are hard/fixed measure points, rest is done by the sensor which can be off. My approach is to measure how much milage it takes to get to the low level.
    When is your smoke present, ex. idle? coming to a stop?
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    It mostly starts after coming to a stop, V=0, and the car stops smoking when it is moving again.

  10. #60
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    Thanks for posting the pic. Tried to rep, but I must have given you some recently. @Sticky, can you rep this man for posting the follow up to his repair?

    So they replaced the exhaust valve stem seals specifically. What is your build date? I am looking forward to seeing what happens when you put your downpipes back on.

    @RTA those sound like the same symptoms I have as well. I have noticed my car smoke incessantly when driving at a slow, constant speed (10 mph), for an extended period of time (more than 30 seconds).
    Eppur si muove.

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    For what its worth, my smoking issue has stopped. I realized that it only occured in between map changes while the engine was running. Like id use my stalk to switch between map 2 - 3- 4- 5 and land on map 1. Throughout this process the engine started smoking pretty badly. It seems to be the only time i can get it to smoke. Now that i figured out how to go to map 2 from map 1 directly it doesnt happen anymore.
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    Good stuff mikolo, glad they figured it out and got it fixed. Was your car visibly smoking with the stock downpipes in place?
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    Good stuff mikolo, glad they figured it out and got it fixed. Was your car visibly smoking with the stock downpipes in place?
    The car was smoking intermittently(not noticeable with stock cats). It was hard to catch but I showed my SA a video of when it happened with the catless dp's. Whats really scary is he said its not uncommon for this to happen and he had to do quite a few of the valve stem repairs on 3 series. My build date is late 06. I honestly think this is where most of the smoking issues come from. I think this is the combination of 15k oil change intervals combined with the high heat the n54 produces. Thank god for power-train warranty, this would have been one hell of a service bill. @RTA im sorry to say but you most likely have the same issue, and everyone with smoke when coming to a stop and idle-ing in drive.

    Edit: also noticed the oil smell i had even with the catted downpipes is gone.
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  14. #64
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    Video I showed to my SA added, sorry for the crap quality but you get the point.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y77K0...ature=youtu.be
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  15. #65
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    This is not what I want to hear. I looked into it and the valve stem seal replacement is a job that requires a laundry list of special tools.

    @mikolo-n54 what was the labor time spent on the repair? It sounds like you have an extended warranty. Lucky bastard.

    Does anyone know where you can rent the special tools for working on BMW engines?
    Eppur si muove.

  16. #66
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    This is not what I want to hear. I looked into it and the valve stem seal replacement is a job that requires a laundry list of special tools.

    @mikolo-n54 what was the labor time spent on the repair? It sounds like you have an extended warranty. Lucky bastard.

    Does anyone know where you can rent the special tools for working on BMW engines?
    It took the dealership 6 days labor to do this. The engine was pulled and the the head was completely disassembled.

    I'll take a look at the service sheet again im not sure if it states the exact hours but I'll check.
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  17. #67
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    Sounds like a good excuse to build the bottom end, port/Polish & rework the head, as well as turbo upgrade Click here to enlarge

    ...just need a fuel system to make it possible...
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    @Sticky , can you rep this man for posting the follow up to his repair?
    Absolutely he deserves it.
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  19. #69
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    I decided to say $#@! it. If it is my valve seals, I'm buying the tools and doing it in the driveway. I'll take pictures.

    These are the tools I've identified as being necessary to do the job


    The last tool is what you need to put the camshafts back in place. It not only has the alignment jig, but also has the pre-tensionors for the bearing ledge and the tool to depress the valves for one cylinder to allow installation of the camshaft. Most other kits only contain the alignment jig.

    I'm still not convinced my valve stem seals are the problem though. I think it is the turbos, mainly because there is oil on the OUTSIDE of the center assembly of each turbo. So I think it's leaking inside, obviously on the turbine side, and the oil is getting between the turbine housing and the center housing, making its way to the outside of the turbo. There does not appear to be a seal between the center housing and the turbine housing, just a snap ring, judging by the exploded diagrams of MHI turbos on the web.

    I've just got to confirm what my problem is before I go tearing into the engine. I think exploratory surgery may be necessary. If I remove the turbos, I should be able to determine if the valve seals or the turbos are the problem.

    Thoughts or advice is welcome.
    Eppur si muove.

  20. #70
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    I don't think its your valve stem seals but if you'll get the tools I've already used this when doing my cylinder head:

    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BMW-N51-N52-N...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

    Much better priced than getting those individually...i'd pull the dps first and check turbine side...if there's oil in there and/or your wheels have in/out or too much side to side play you've got your cause
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  21. #71
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    Those tools are like Christmas goodies lol...i dont work on these motors enough to warrant buying them :-/

  22. #72
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
    Those tools are like Christmas goodies lol...i dont work on these motors enough to warrant buying them :-/
    Lol, I don't either but it's more cost effective to do it this way. @Sticky Maybe if I buy then, when I am done BimmerBoost.com could buy then from me and then rent them to people who need them. A kind of BMW special tool rental program.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    I don't think its your valve stem seals but if you'll get the tools I've already used this when doing my cylinder head:

    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BMW-N51-N52-N...vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

    Much better priced than getting those individually...i'd pull the dps first and check turbine side...if there's oil in there and/or your wheels have in/out or too much side to side play you've got your cause
    I've seen those kits, but they don't include the pre-tensionors (thrust blocks as they are called) or the valve compressor tool. I guess because it is an inline 6 you can't install the cam shaft in any position that does not cause it to actuate a set of valves, so you need to depress those valves before the installation.

    Did you just remove the head from the engine, or did you completely tear the head down and rebuild it?

    When I pulled the aftermarket DPs to put the stockers back on, I did see a bit of liquid oil behind the turbine wheels. This and the oil on the outside of the turbo center housing makes me think it is the turbo and not the valve stem seals. I would think if the oil was leaking down the exhaust valve stems, it would burn before making it to the turbos with the exhaust valves, ports and manifold all being so hot. So liquid oil in the turbos points to the turbos being the source in my mind.
    Eppur si muove.

  23. #73
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    Lol, I don't either but it's more cost effective to do it this way. @Sticky Maybe if I buy then, when I am done BimmerBoost.com could buy then from me and then rent them to people who need them. A kind of BMW special tool rental program.



    I've seen those kits, but they don't include the pre-tensionors (thrust blocks as they are called) or the valve compressor tool. I guess because it is an inline 6 you can't install the cam shaft in any position that does not cause it to actuate a set of valves, so you need to depress those valves before the installation.

    Did you just remove the head from the engine, or did you completely tear the head down and rebuild it?

    When I pulled the aftermarket DPs to put the stockers back on, I did see a bit of liquid oil behind the turbine wheels. This and the oil on the outside of the turbo center housing makes me think it is the turbo and not the valve stem seals. I would think if the oil was leaking down the exhaust valve stems, it would burn before making it to the turbos with the exhaust valves, ports and manifold all being so hot. So liquid oil in the turbos points to the turbos being the source in my mind.
    To make sure, use a boroscope to look at the cylinder valves, and if theres a pooling of oil = valve stems. Sounds like your turbos for sure if you can see the oil when you pull the dp's. On the service sheet you'll see they checked the turbine housing no oil.. I would check anyways lol my car feels great now, on cold starts I would see very light white smoke and now its gone completely as well as the oil smell. I went from 16mpg to 18.9 too! So I guess for those with no oil in the turbos but you get a dense white smoke, your in for quite the repair.
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  24. #74
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    Valve stem seals usually manifest themselves after idling for extended periods and then accelerating away, or a hot start after being off for 3-10 minutes. Judging by the oil in the turbos its most likely them.

  25. #75
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    Thanks for the replies guys. I am pretty sure it is my turbos leaking.
    Eppur si muove.

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