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  1. #101
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    prob be needing this later too.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


  2. #102
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    Update

    About 10 days ago I arranged to meet up with my friend to reinstall the flash and code the paddles.

    My friend did a fresh install using Cn555ic's files to eliminate the possiblity that the files were not setup properly. The flash went through fine, except it seemed to go through 4 times. Everything appeared as normal. However S (Sport) mode does not work at all. The Alpina flash definitely worked as you could still see D1, D2, D3 etc in regular D mode. We also attempted to code the paddles with no success. However, the coding process seems to go through completely fine without a hitch. No idea what the problem could be.

    I really want to get S mode working again as the car is painful to drive. We are planning to reinstall the stock flash again because I much prefer the stock D mode over the Alpina D mode. In the Alpina D mode I'm already in 6th gear at 60kmph or 37mph. I''ve left JB4 in stock valet mode for the time being as I can't really use the power anyway as it feels like I'm driving with 150hp. Unbelievable the difference between Sport mode and Drive mode. Hopefully I'll have some answers soon. My mate has been very helpful in trying to get it sorted so I'm confident we'll get to the bottom of it. I suspect my car is being very difficult though.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Roadkillrob Click here to enlarge
    This is definitely a failure of the microswitch in the shifter mechanism or wiring harness - i have seen it a bunch of times. You move it to Sport and it makes no difference, still will be in Drive, if you paddle shift, it will manually change gears, but will go back to Drive if you don't shift manually for a bit, same as if you leave it in D and paddle shift.

    Either the microswitch fails that tells the car you moved to Sport mode on the shifter or one of the wires is pinched in the harness causing the same issue - flashing it back won't help.
    Thanks for the response. I plan to thoroughly check this out as I am experiencing exactly what you have described. Hopefully it's a simple and relatively cheap fix.
    Last edited by BMW86; 05-28-2013 at 12:20 AM.

  3. #103
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    Has anyone flashed their car using the b3 flash for the ecu? Would love 16psi stock

  4. #104
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by continue5 Click here to enlarge
    Has anyone flashed their car using the b3 flash for the ecu? Would love 16psi stock
    Not that simple, Alpina N54 has lowered compression, which means the tune wouldn't be appropriate for a stock internal N54. Unless you like grenading your engine of course.
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  5. #105
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    Not that simple, Alpina N54 has lowered compression, which means the tune wouldn't be appropriate for a stock internal N54. Unless you like grenading your engine of course.
    Has this actually been proven though? We've got 725whp stock internal n54s, I'd be willing to try,if anything I would think the dme will retard timing like it does with jb4 or procede if it senses anything and hopefully go into limp mode and at that point you just flash to stock.

  6. #106
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by continue5 Click here to enlarge
    Has this actually been proven though? We've got 725whp stock internal n54s, I'd be willing to try,if anything I would think the dme will retard timing like it does with jb4 or procede if it senses anything and hopefully go into limp mode and at that point you just flash to stock.
    He's not saying the stock internals on the N54 are not strong enough. He is saying they are different, and as such a tune optimized for the lower compression internals used by the Alpina N54 would in no way be optimized for the standard compression stock internals. It may lead to engine damage and will surely not lead to what would be considered a safe performance upgrade.
    Eppur si muove.

  7. #107
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    He's not saying the stock internals on the N54 are not strong enough. He is saying they are different, and as such a tune optimized for the lower compression internals used by the Alpina N54 would in no way be optimized for the standard compression stock internals. It may lead to engine damage and will surely not lead to what would be considered a safe performance upgrade.
    The reason alpina uses low compression internals is so it can run piss gas and achieve decent performance, no one is saying flash the car run 87 and let her ripp. More like flash the car, fill up 93+e85 30% or so, log and then make a proper analysis. I am not saying you're wrong by any means as it makes perfect sense but the curious side of me says at-least try it.

  8. #108
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    You are welcome to try it, I just think there are not many people who would recommend it given there are mechanical differences with the engines. I would think the JB4 or a Cobb would be better solutions. There is a saying about curiosity involving cats.
    Eppur si muove.

  9. #109
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    You are welcome to try it, I just think there are not many people who would recommend it given there are mechanical differences with the engines. I would think the JB4 or a Cobb would be better solutions. There is a saying about curiosity involving cats.
    I get my car back today and I am willing to be a guinea pig for this if anyone can point me to the right files I need to flash, because as far as I know we don't have a way of doing it yet?

  10. #110
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by continue5 Click here to enlarge
    Has this actually been proven though? We've got 725whp stock internal n54s, I'd be willing to try,if anything I would think the dme will retard timing like it does with jb4 or procede if it senses anything and hopefully go into limp mode and at that point you just flash to stock.
    It's tuned for different compression. Why would you slap on a tune for a different motor setup when you have perfectly good tunes for your actual setup available? It makes no sense.
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  11. #111
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by continue5 Click here to enlarge
    I get my car back today and I am willing to be a guinea pig for this if anyone can point me to the right files I need to flash, because as far as I know we don't have a way of doing it yet?
    I highly advise against it as will basically anyone else.
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  12. #112
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by continue5 Click here to enlarge
    I get my car back today and I am willing to be a guinea pig for this if anyone can point me to the right files I need to flash, because as far as I know we don't have a way of doing it yet?
    I have tried this a while back, its OK,some what mild....for me I prefer my Cobb 2+ aggressive just make sure you have good fuel, octane is your friend our dme is very good at protecting us from our selves If you want to play with this post or pm your dme zb number, are you msd 80 or 81, and what rom you have, optional items would be your vin and transmission type.

  13. #113
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by harry Click here to enlarge
    I have tried this a while back, its OK,some what mild....for me I prefer my Cobb 2+ aggressive just make sure you have good fuel, octane is your friend our dme is very good at protecting us from our selves If you want to play with this post or pm your dme zb number, are you msd 80 or 81, and what rom you have, optional items would be your vin and transmission type.
    Lol, there you are... I was hoping someone with experience would chim in so I don't look like I'm crazy for wanting to try this... I want to use this as a base flash and use the procede to control boost, hopefully this will help with my fuel trims when running above e60. You have a PM sir.

  14. #114
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    Click here to enlarge
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

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  15. #115
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    @klipseracer is looking for a log as in using an OBD splitter. A log of the flashing process...
    Can anybody help him out?? Will this be the first attemp to try and crack the 6AT TCU..???
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  16. #116
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted-M Click here to enlarge
    @klipseracer is looking for a log as in using an OBD splitter. A log of the flashing process...
    Can anybody help him out?? Will this be the first attemp to try and crack the 6AT TCU..???

    Won't lead to cracking the TCU, but will give some insight on the CANID that the mechatronic/TCU is on the CAN bus as well as some of the handshaking that happens when getting into the TCU's memory. Someone would have to have an OBD splitter and obd sniffing software.
    Click here to enlarge
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  17. #117
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    Bump.

    Still not paddles for me but I plan to take it to an indy in the near future, hopefully get to the bottom of this. I don't think the problem is mechanical as the paddles stopped functioning as soon as the Alpina flash was loaded up.

  18. #118
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Stupid question here, but my eyes hurt from reading hours of posts. I haven't seen a direct answer to how to copy the files for the NCS Expert setup step to perform the paddle shift fix. Is it a safe assumption it is the same files and directories that are copied for WinKFP described in the WinKFP import pdf? After muddling though part 1 and figuring out all the easy but critical little things that need to be done in the right order I want to ensure I'm learning from others on that step...

  19. #119
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    If you have issues, you just need to contact me. WedgePerformance at Gmail.

    FIX - Load NCS Expert, Load EXPERT Profile. Follow normal steps, F1, F3, F6, F4, EGS, then F2, SGCODERIEN, F3. This will reset the EGS and your paddles will work.

  20. #120
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ksmyth Click here to enlarge
    Stupid question here, but my eyes hurt from reading hours of posts. I haven't seen a direct answer to how to copy the files for the NCS Expert setup step to perform the paddle shift fix. Is it a safe assumption it is the same files and directories that are copied for WinKFP described in the WinKFP import pdf? After muddling though part 1 and figuring out all the easy but critical little things that need to be done in the right order I want to ensure I'm learning from others on that step...
    Having the right software to begin with is key. Once you have a full software set and SP-Daten, the best tool for updating apps with SP-Daten and WinKFP is BMW Coding Tool 2.5.0... This is part of my automated installation, so again... If anyone needs help, email me WedgePerformance at Gmail.

    I'm not a commercial service provider and I do not charge a fixed rate for assistance. Donations are always appreciated, but not required.

  21. #121
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Wedge1967 Click here to enlarge
    If you have issues, you just need to contact me. WedgePerformance at Gmail.

    FIX - Load NCS Expert, Load EXPERT Profile. Follow normal steps, F1, F3, F6, F4, EGS, then F2, SGCODERIEN, F3. This will reset the EGS and your paddles will work.
    You have a good attitude.
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  22. #122
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    You have a good attitude.
    Thanks Sticky... I just remember how frustrating it can be trying to find good information online. If you see anyone having issues with flashing, feel free redirect them to WedgePerformance at Gmail. I don't get a lot of time to read every post... but if they reach out to me for help, I'm always willing to help...

    I've lost count on how many cars I have recovered remotely...

  23. #123
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    Thanks for the offer and for being understanding! I won't be touching the car until the weekend, so we will see how it goes.

  24. #124
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    I'm using NCS Expert 4.0.1 (Included in Standard Tools 2.12) and have tried many "Expert Mode" profiles provided by various people but I never get the "SG ausw" button after first selecting "Vin/ZCS/FA" on the first page. The third button along reads either "ZCS/FA f. ECU" or "ZCS aus SG" but never "SG ausw". When I press this button, it next has an option to choose chassis code then CAS but I do not want to take any chances unless somebody confirms for sure that this button is the exact same button with a different name. I've had too many scares with both my DME and TCU flashes to do anything unless I'm 100% sure!

    Any help/confirmation would be greatly appreciated!

  25. #125
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    I can confirm that "ZCS aus SG" (German) or (ZCS/FA f. ECU) in NCS Expert 4.x do the same thing as "SG ausw" in NCS Expert 3.x and I have successfully applied the paddle fix.

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