Close

Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,228
    Rep Points
    2,205.8
    Mentioned
    25 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23


    Yes Reputation No

    Dead Clutch Pedal after Bleeding & Clutch Swap?

    Just finished installing new clutch (Spec 2+, OEM DMFW). I did this successfully in the past (ACT), but his time I released the clutch bleed valve when installing the slave cylinder (it's easier to compress this way). We closed the valve, then proceeded to bleed the clutch (pump then bleed, repeat).


    This worked as normal for a bit them during subsequent bleeding cycles, the pedal got worse until now it has zero pressure. Pedal stays on the floor and has zero resistance. I've gone through a good 5-6 bleeding cycles and it is the same- completely limp, no pressure, stays on the floor.


    What could be the problem? There is fluid in the brake reservoir and no visible fluid leaks. I'm stumped.


    Thanks,


    -TG
    Change is constant

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    103
    Rep Points
    174.0
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    Try completely topping off the fluid reservoir.

    I ran into this issue when I did my CDV. There's a barrier in the brake fluid reservoir that separates where the clutch and brakes pull fluid from, the reservoir has to be FULL for the fluid to spill over into the clutch side.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Hayward, CA
    Posts
    7,931
    Rep Points
    4,044.9
    Mentioned
    325 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I JUST went through this with my clutch. Make sure your line isn't leaking where it going into the slave clylinder first off. Mine was and was sucking in air. Next, open the bleeder and have your helper SLOWLY pump the clutch pulling it up with his hand until you get solid fluid coming out. Then tighten the bleeder and start the bleeding process again, if you pump it too hard or fast you just make a million little air bubbles in the line and it will come out looking like a milkshake, you will never get it bled that way. So if you did that purge all that out and start again. Make sure you keep the fluid level up, once you get to this point a normal bleed should do it, also make sure your helper knows what the clutch should feel like once bled as the pedal is not very stiff. My helper didn't know when then clutch was actually bled which led to a little confusion. It honestly took almost an hour and I have bled many a disc break set up and clutch slave. Its a finicky system, just be patient.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,228
    Rep Points
    2,205.8
    Mentioned
    25 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23



    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Thanks, I got it. I think it was a combination of not knowing there were too sections in the reservoir (it must have got low on the clutch side while bleeding), and perhaps pumping too fast (milky fluid).
    I bled it myself and got it to work.

    Thanks for the tips.
    Change is constant

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    103
    Rep Points
    174.0
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    Glad you got it sorted. For posterity, what procedure did you follow to get your clutch to bleed correctly?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,228
    Rep Points
    2,205.8
    Mentioned
    25 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23



    Yes Reputation No
    Topped it off to the VERY brim, attached one-man bleeder to purge valve (you can use a bottle with a hose if you have a helper), pumped clutch several times slowly, opened valve, pumped pedal slowly a few cycles, close valve, top-off reservoir, rince repeat.

    I did everything right the first time, but I didn't refill the reservoir each time and I also forgot to have the fluid catch can higher than the slave cyclinder to help evacuate air.
    Change is constant

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    103
    Rep Points
    174.0
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    Glad to hear it wasn't a leak issue like @VargasTurboTech had. I had my car on stands overnight trying to do a simple clutch bleed because of this same problem, glad you got it figured out.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Houston under a book
    Posts
    1,420
    Rep Points
    2,749.1
    Mentioned
    66 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    28


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    You guys should try bleeding a clutch on a DSM or a Fiero if you think these are rough...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    109
    Rep Points
    218.2
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    3


    Yes Reputation No
    Has anyone use used a MightyVac (Vacuum pump) on these cars? That is how I bled mine, but i am having issues with the clutch not disengaging fully. The engagement point isn't all the way on the floor, but it is often really knotchy getting into gear (more so than it use to).

    I recently installed my Spec Clutch. This morning when putting it into reverse the car started to roll back and it wouldn't go into gear so the clutch is clearly not disengaging. I was able to get it into gear after pumping the clutch and trying a couple times. I bled the clutch once already and am still having the issue. I am think I may have a similar situation that Tony had.
    2008 335I E92, AW, VFF700, 18" Forgestar F14, M3 front/side, M-tech rear, AMS IC, H&R Touring Cup Kit suspension, HID AE, ER Charge Pipe & Synapse BOV, CIC Retrofit, Quafie, DSS, Defiv Lockdown, SPEC 2+/Steel SMFW, Walbro 450

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Hayward, CA
    Posts
    7,931
    Rep Points
    4,044.9
    Mentioned
    325 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Its a real pain in the ass to bleed these, you need 2 people and the bleeder is in a stupid spot. Do not pump it fast or you will just milshake the fluid and never get all the air out. pump it very slowly and have someone bleed, let them know they will get brake fluid down in their armpit. Its really fun, make sure you keep filling as you do it. If you have a leak at the line you will never get it, so make sure everything is dry.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •