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  1. #1
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    4 out of 4 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No

    M3 Upper & Lower control arms

    Note: Not responsible for any damage to you or your car, this worked on my car so will work on yours.

    ***This tutorial assumes you know how to get your car secured on jack stands, if in doubt do NOT attempt this DIY!

    Tools Need not in pic (2 jacks if possible & block of wood, (1) for a safety catch in case jack stand fail (I saw this happen and will NEVER forget it)....safety 1st). The 2nd jack is for jacking up suspension up to ride height.

    Torque specs:

    upper & Lower control arms to knuckle 122 ftlb (165 Nm)
    upper & Lower control arms to subframe 74 ftlb (100 Nm)

    Suggestions:

    Alignment is 100% neccessary, no ifs about it! your car will ride like a POS afterwards.
    I suggest coating all bolts with bolt penatrating formula, applying anti-seize to all bolts and replacing your tie-rods with these below so you only have to do a lignment once. (see link)

    http://www.hpashop.com/BMW-E8X-E9X-Z...Rod-E8x-9x.htm

    Tools: (besides jacks and block of wood):

    Click here to enlarge

    Pic of M3 Control arms:

    Click here to enlarge

    Pretty sure "M" Logos where here LOL!

    Click here to enlarge

    Step #1: (Jack suspension up to ride height (18.7" from bottom of hub to fender)

    Click here to enlarge

    Step #2: Take off under belly and take loose the headlight adjusting rod (use 2-10MM wrenches) so you do not accidently forget

    Click here to enlarge

    Pic of where to tighten/loosen rod:

    Click here to enlarge

    Step #3: (Optional step, I did this to get a bit of "wiggle room" You can also take out your adjusting nipple...mine was already removed prior:

    Click here to enlarge

    Step #4: Drop steering rack

    Click here to enlarge

    Step #5: Loosen all bolts to Upper & Lower Control Arms & remove old POS!

    Click here to enlarge

    If impact is not used or bolts just spins use this method:

    Click here to enlarge

    A shop that installed my springs cut a slot in the stud to stick a screwdriver in for leverage and did not use the correct T40 in the end. This prevented me from being able to use the correct method and the bolt was stripped on there....luckily a impact lifted it just enough so I could get a hacksaw blade under it to cut it off (lost 2 hours of time) I was a bit PO!

    Click here to enlarge

    M3 Upper & Lower control arms compared to OEM:

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

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    Movement of the M3 Lower control arms at subframe:

    Click here to enlarge

    Step #6: Reverse all steps (dont forget to put new leveling rod in):

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    M3 arms installed: (I will be replacing my Tie-rod ends also with these linked below)

    http://www.hpashop.com/BMW-E8X-E9X-Z...Rod-E8x-9x.htm

    Click here to enlarge

    More camber at bottom!

    Click here to enlarge

    Very easy tutorial, hope this is of help to somone!
    Rob
    JB4 G5, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR Dps, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid subframe bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295

  2. #2
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    FWIW, I did not have to drop my steering rack, but it really depends on how much room one needs to do the work.

    I must emphasize torquing all the bolts/nuts down under full suspension load, including the bolts connecting the tension struts and wishbones to the subframe. I was chasing a clunk for several days because I did not do this on the subframe connecting bolts (only the steering knuckle nuts).

    I also had a wishbone nut seize on me. Someone had put red loctite in there, and even with the T40 torx bit fitting just fine, I ended up breaking 3 torx bits. I ended up using a twin-blade cutoff wheel and sliced the nut in halfway to the threads, loosening its grip on the threads.

    Nice writeup robc Click here to enlarge I suppose I should finish my Wavetrac writeup. I've gotten it done with pictures, just needs to be copy/pasted in and arranged.

  3. #3
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    Ah yes, the TRW branded arms with the M logo ground off for 200 less dollars. Nice choice.

  4. #4
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    Do you happen to have the printout from the alignment shop that shows what the alignment was set to before and after adjustment? I want to see exactly how off it is after the M arms are installed.

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    I've got mine in the car from my alignment, I'll post up the specs later if rob doesn't have his.

    The toe was so far in that the car wanted to turn more than it wanted to go straight. Was pretty scary driving around like that; it was so bad that it affected the camber and made the front end sit almost an inch lower than normal (I could see it in the fender)

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sered Click here to enlarge
    I've got mine in the car from my alignment, I'll post up the specs later if rob doesn't have his.

    The toe was so far in that the car wanted to turn more than it wanted to go straight. Was pretty scary driving around like that; it was so bad that it affected the camber and made the front end sit almost an inch lower than normal (I could see it in the fender)
    That's what I would expect. Because the tie rods mount to the front of the bearing carrier (the knuckle) increasing the length of the bottom control arms will push out the bottom of the tire and give it much more negative camber and toe in. You have to increase the length of the tie rods to achieve the factory specified toe.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by robc1976 Click here to enlarge
    Very easy tutorial, hope this is of help to somone!
    Absolutely excellent tutorial.

  8. #8
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    Come on guys rep this one up!!!
    Quality tutorial nice one Click here to enlarge
    Mods: Cobb v3, Aquamist hfs-4, BMS DCI, AR Design DP's, ETS FMIC, ETS Charge Pipe, HKS SSQV BOV, BMS CDV, BMS OCC, BMS Clutch Stop & ptf twin disc clutch.

  9. #9
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sered Click here to enlarge
    FWIW, I did not have to drop my steering rack, but it really depends on how much room one needs to do the work.

    I must emphasize torquing all the bolts/nuts down under full suspension load, including the bolts connecting the tension struts and wishbones to the subframe. I was chasing a clunk for several days because I did not do this on the subframe connecting bolts (only the steering knuckle nuts).

    I also had a wishbone nut seize on me. Someone had put red loctite in there, and even with the T40 torx bit fitting just fine, I ended up breaking 3 torx bits. I ended up using a twin-blade cutoff wheel and sliced the nut in halfway to the threads, loosening its grip on the threads.

    Nice writeup robc Click here to enlarge I suppose I should finish my Wavetrac writeup. I've gotten it done with pictures, just needs to be copy/pasted in and arranged.
    Aewesome, I just finished the lockdown differential kit and need a thread to reference on getting the wavetrac out...I forgot to photograpgh to much of it, perfect timing!! Suspension must be under load....VERY important indeed!
    JB4 G5, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR Dps, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid subframe bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295

  10. #10
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by kev335i Click here to enlarge
    Come on guys rep this one up!!!
    Quality tutorial nice one Click here to enlarge
    I appreciate that!
    JB4 G5, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR Dps, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid subframe bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295

  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by robc1976 Click here to enlarge
    Aewesome, I just finished the lockdown differential kit and need a thread to reference on getting the wavetrac out...I forgot to photograpgh to much of it, perfect timing!! Suspension must be under load....VERY important indeed!
    I'll see about getting it done this evening.

  12. #12
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sered Click here to enlarge
    I'll see about getting it done this evening.
    I have few pics, like taking drive shaft off...that about it lol!! I can get over how big the c-clip is on the differential....makes my HKS BOV c-clip look small!!
    JB4 G5, 455 LPFP, HFS-4 meth kit, BMS OCC, VM 6466 ST, RB valve, BMS DCI, 3" AR Dps, Custom OC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2 exhaust DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid subframe bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295

  13. #13
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    Yeah the c-clips were a beast. I found that it was easier using a combination of 90deg nose pliars with a LONG handle/nose and a flathead screwdriver. The 90deg bend makes grasping the eyes of the ring more stable; the 45deg ones just couldn't hold on.

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