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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Why exactly does the dry sump help with flex? Due to more material bracing where it's mounted?
    Its not the dry sump that helps so much as the pan being designed to brace the entire block. Most engines ive seen have individual main caps which allows flex to be more of an issue. With a pan design like the VQ above it makes the pan into a VERY effective girdle as it ties the whole block together and keeps it from moving as much. Another reason is these pans are not cast inferior aluminum alloys like a lot of stock pans but 6061 billet aluminum so it is a much stronger and stiffer material. Like I also said above you can just have a girdle made like the one below but these pans just are such a clean and functional solution to several problems.

    http://www.americanmuscle.com/canton...=1995&model=GT

    Another thing that is effective but may be more complicated is ditching the stock engine mounts and using a mid and motor plate. On oem vehicles the motor mounts on the side of the block really torque the block on launches and are a big source of failure whereas the plates eliminate that added stress on the block. I'm just saying a billet block sounds cool but when you look at other cost effective solutions you realize that it makes WAY more sense to work around the issues. Besides can you imagine slinging a rod on a 20k billet block? $#@! that!!

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Jimefam Click here to enlarge
    Another thing that is effective but may be more complicated is ditching the stock engine mounts and using a mid and motor plate. On oem vehicles the motor mounts on the side of the block really torque the block on launches and are a big source of failure whereas the plates eliminate that added stress on the block. I'm just saying a billet block sounds cool but when you look at other cost effective solutions you realize that it makes WAY more sense to work around the issues. Besides can you imagine slinging a rod on a 20k billet block? $#@! that!!
    I hear what you are saying and it is a good idea to look into other areas obviously as you mentioned that are more cost effective.

    Who could do the motor plate and how does that differ from the stock engine mounts exactly?

  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    I hear what you are saying and it is a good idea to look into other areas obviously as you mentioned that are more cost effective.

    Who could do the motor plate and how does that differ from the stock engine mounts exactly?
    The mid and motor plate isnt too complicated, on my drag motor we just used the waterpump bolt holes and used 1/4" longer bolts and the midplate goes in between the block and trans bellhousing. What it does is take the torquing off the side of the block which at least on my motor is the major source of cracked blocks.

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    They also can be made out of carbon fiber like these that are going into a 4,000hp proextreme car. I believe all the CF guy needs is a hard card board example of what you need to mold these.

    This motor plate weighs 1.5lbs
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    Click here to enlarge

    The midplate weighs under 3lbs
    Click here to enlarge

  4. #29
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    Motor plates are more for a drag application, that being said they do work, however if you were to put something like that in an m3 be prepared to have a car that will vibrate your teeth out!! The problem with the s65 would not be fixed by this either. There is a bedplate as well as an oil problem with this engine. It will be fixed soon enough.

  5. #30
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    This is really going out there, but does anyone have an idea how much it'd cost to build an low compression S65 from scratch, using the Dart block as the foundation? Just wondering if it'd be less expensive (while obviously being more solid) than taking an OEM spec/compression S65 and then sleeving, re-strengthening the block, etc.
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  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    This is really going out there, but does anyone have an idea how much it'd cost to build an low compression S65 from scratch, using the Dart block as the foundation? Just wondering if it'd be less expensive (while obviously being more solid) than taking an OEM spec/compression S65 and then sleeving, re-strengthening the block, etc.
    Considering the 15-18k just for the block it's way, way more expensive.

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Considering the 15-18k just for the block it's way, way more expensive.
    Word, but you can forget about any problems related to the block's structural integrity
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  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    Word, but you can forget about any problems related to the block's structural integrity
    This is quite true and that piece of mind is worth something. I mean I'd love to do it just to go over 1000 whp but I think I've done my fair share pushing this platform.

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