Pre-Turbo Meth Build

[M3GTtt]

I did a lot of research on this before installing my system and the end result was to try to have the nozzle as close to the impeller as possible, and at the dead center. So I made a bracket that attached to the compressor housing, placing teh nossle dead center, then held in place by the filter and a clamp.

[xbox_fan]

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How are you guys routing the trunk line on an E92 when going interior?

Right now I got my line under the trunk floor, but am wondering how it transitions from trunk to door sill. I have the seat bottom off and the drivers side seat folded down. Do I pop the side bolster off too or remove the vertical interior trunk panel on the drivers side? Once I get inside the cabin I think I got it until the door sill ends. At that point I assume I remove the plastic cover near the trunk button and tuck in there?

I drilled the amp plate out and tucked both lines cleanly into it and down under to the floor (hope the line can take the amp heat...). I calculated the max air flow through the line I am using and figured it can only do about 0.05 ft^/s which would be way too slow if the tank was anything but completely full. For this reason I have gone with a slightly larger line and a check valve for the boost air side. This line is still only capable of about 0.1 ft^3/s. I am losing my progressive meth flow, but I think that is something I need to accept for the time being if I want to have decent response.

Will be tapping the intake and laying electrical later this week.

Attachment 24652Attachment 24653Attachment 24654Attachment 24655

I did go the interior route, here's a link to my write up.

http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...-w-CM10-nozzle

[lulz_m3]

No offense, but why on earth would you want to route your methanol lines through the interior of your car?

[xbox_fan]

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No offense, but why on earth would you want to route your methanol lines through the interior of your car?

It seems safer and easier to do well, having an unprotected fuel line made of nylon/plastic under a car seems like a bad idea. If you route it properly there is no risk of squeezing it or damage the line and even the smallest leak would cause a smell you would notice.

@LostMarine car had a leak under the car (pics somewhere here on bimmerboost) and since you have the exhaust and secondary catts there it seems dangerous to say the least.

[lulz_m3]

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It seems safer and easier to do well, having an unprotected fuel line made of nylon/plastic under a car seems like a bad idea. If you route it properly there is no risk of squeezing it or damage the line and even the smallest leak would cause a smell you would notice.

@LostMarine car had a leak under the car (pics somewhere here on bimmerboost) and since you have the exhaust and secondary catts there it seems dangerous to say the least.

I routed mine along the factory fuel line under the car. I would hardly call it unprotected as it has the factory plastic undercarriage cover protecting it. I'm sure there is no right answer, but i would never run a fuel line inside of my vehicle.


I am willing to wager you spent much more time routing the line through your interior than i did under the car, it took me about 30 minutes to run the line from the trunk into the engine bay, including the time it took to remove the plastic undertray on the driver side floor boards.

[LostMarine]

correct. I originally had mine under the car in the 335. who knows how long i had a leak, but once i tested the kit, it was very noticable. just a hairline crack so i still had flow, but not enough to support what i was doing. Inside the car is much easier on the longevity of the lines itself. The chances of it cracking are greatly reduced. run it poroperly with lno kinks or sharp bends are your pretty well off. If it does happen to leak, you will smell it too. is it safe to breathe in? no, so it would need to be addressed right away.

[rudypoochris]

I have moved all of the connections (check valve, solenoid, flow sensor, etc) to the engine bay, so I am not too concerned with leaking the line within the interior tbh.

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I did a lot of research on this before installing my system and the end result was to try to have the nozzle as close to the impeller as possible, and at the dead center. So I made a bracket that attached to the compressor housing, placing teh nossle dead center, then held in place by the filter and a clamp.

Do you have any pictures of your setup? Are you running electrical or mechanical? Any erosion? What was the concern with mounting farther back? I have found too that close to the eye of the turbo is preferred, but I have only seen that because that is what has been tested.

[M3GTtt]

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I have moved all of the connections (check valve, solenoid, flow sensor, etc) to the engine bay, so I am not too concerned with leaking the line within the interior tbh.Do you have any pictures of your setup? Are you running electrical or mechanical? Any erosion? What was the concern with mounting farther back? I have found too that close to the eye of the turbo is preferred, but I have only seen that because that is what has been tested.

Unfortunately I dont have pix of the pre-impeller nozzles, but drops/droplets created by more distance was my concern, drops hittin the wheel which is travelling at massive speeds cant be good.

I run an Aquamist HFS-3
3 nozzle setup, 0.4 on each turbo and 0.8 into the plenium.

Everything installed in the engine bay.

[rudypoochris]

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Unfortunately I dont have pix of the pre-impeller nozzles, but drops/droplets created by more distance was my concern, drops hittin the wheel which is travelling at massive speeds cant be good.

I run an Aquamist HFS-3
3 nozzle setup, 0.4 on each turbo and 0.8 into the plenium.

Everything installed in the engine bay.

See I was thinking the drops would be smaller the longer the tract as they would evaporate into the air stream. My main concern was drops hitting the walls and temporarily wetting them.

[rudypoochris]

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See I was thinking the drops would be smaller the longer the tract as they would evaporate into the air stream. My main concern was drops hitting the walls and temporarily wetting them.

Did some math on air speed... Not sure if this is right, but I am getting around 360mph in the intake tubing at 17.5 PSI and 6000 rpm. If that is the case, I don't think intake length of 36in or so even makes a difference.

[rudypoochris]

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Did some math on air speed... Not sure if this is right, but I am getting around 360mph in the intake tubing at 17.5 PSI and 6000 rpm. If that is the case, I don't think intake length of 36in or so even makes a difference.

That's what happens when you forget to multiply intake tube cross section times PI. Worst case 3000rpm and 17.5psi you still have 60mph wind speed. That means 36ms for the air to travel down ~36in of tube. Still not really concerned.

[rudypoochris]

Got the line laid. Took a while, but it came out super clean - better than I had hoped. If I had to do it again I would probably get braided line and go under the car. Running it through the interior has given me a little peace of mind though and it came up in just the right spot.

Thanks for the link to your guide earlier @xbox_fan .



The final product (can only see line a little in the trunk and if you really stuck your head under the pedals:



I still can't get over how awesome these cars look!



Next up, tap the manifold and wire the sensor/solenoid.

[M3GTtt]

Guys there is not pressure pre turbo impeler,, so dont calculate the airspeed at a 17psi..

Injecting after impeler is injecting into boost. Pre-impeler is just the airspeed of the air being drawn in, usually more diameter than the output diameter of the compressor housing. Therefore you need to make sure that the water is stil atomasied before it hits the blades.

[rudypoochris]

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Guys there is not pressure pre turbo impeler,, so dont calculate the airspeed at a 17psi..

Injecting after impeler is injecting into boost. Pre-impeler is just the airspeed of the air being drawn in, usually more diameter than the output diameter of the compressor housing. Therefore you need to make sure that the water is stil atomasied before it hits the blades.

That value was used to calculate the volume of air flowing through the turbo, not the pressure I was injecting in to.

[M3GTtt]

Yeah but your injection mist will be injected into slower air, so my fear is that droplets can develope on the filter or filter housing.

[rudypoochris]

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Yeah but your injection mist will be injected into slower air, so my fear is that droplets can develope on the filter or filter housing.

I mean, I calculated it to be around 60mph at 3000rpm, doesn't seem slow enough to wet a filter, also the spray pattern of the nozzle is tighter than the outlet of the filter. I am not sure how it could wet the filter?

[rudypoochris]

Got almost all the plumbing done.



Check valve on the larger line to the tank. Filter, flow sensor, and solenoid on the meth line.



Its like this car is made for meth!



Note the new 3.5 bar TMAP.



All wired up, lots of plumbing. Electrical tape is temporary, will use zip ties.



You can sort of see the boost ports down on the charge pipe.



Last bit of plumbing to get hooked up is the boost switch to control the solenoids. I was planning to tap it off of the DV boost line with a T. No problem doing this right?



Tomorrow I will zip tie, T in the sensor, and complete the electrical connections. I don't have the 10A fusible link yet, but can complete some of the tests regardless. Tomorrow on the way to work boost air will fill the tank and that will be the first check to make sure the system can hold pressure. Getting excited!!

[trufus]

Great progress! Would rep for all the picture updates but it won't let me. Looking forward to results soon.

[lulz_m3]

Whats the plan for the 3.5 bar map sensor? Do you expect the oem's to be able to sustain 21+psi with this set-up? On the chargepipe - 3 fittings? Are two to draw boost pressure and 1 for meth injection?

[rudypoochris]

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Whats the plan for the 3.5 bar map sensor? Do you expect the oem's to be able to sustain 21+psi with this set-up? On the chargepipe - 3 fittings? Are two to draw boost pressure and 1 for meth injection?

I just know that IF pwm Drops enough and I can do over 20.5psi, that I'd be pissed with myself for not having the correct hardware to do it asap. Being semi superstitious I guess. The two blue ports (on the charge pipe) feed air to each DCI the black port is boost to the check valve and then onto the tank. On the DCIs the blue ports are liquid and the black are air (from the charge pipe).

[rudypoochris]

Just finished the install a few minutes ago. No real photos since today was all wiring it up. If you thought the DME box was cramped with JB4 and NLS, it can get worse.

Will test it tomorrow after work. Not bothering with benching the system. I am just going to jump right in as soon as I can source some meth (Home Depot?).

This is more for my memory:

[redlineryder]

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/meth...e-378-l/912218

Goodluck with the test run!

[lulz_m3]

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http://www.homedepot.ca/product/meth...e-378-l/912218

Goodluck with the test run!

Looks like thats only in Canda, eh. They dont sell it at the US Home depots.

[klipseracer]

you can run more than just meth, what was it, denatured alcohol?

[rudypoochris]

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you can run more than just meth, what was it, denatured alcohol?

I think I fund a Sunoco meth source on my drive home. I got tap water in the tank right now with solenoid turned off just to make sure it isn't leaking before I add methanol.