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  1. #1
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    PTF BLOG: 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS FOR THE BMW N54 – NGK 5992 LASER IRIDIUM – ILZKBR7A-8G

    Most of you have probably heard of these plugs by now. I get asked about them quite often it seems and decided to write up an article on our blog describing them in a bit more detail as well as some of their advantages vs. the OEM plugs for those looking for a good working 1 step colder alternative. Blog entry posted here:

    http://blog.protuningfreaks.com/2013...m-ilzkbr7a-8g/

    Here's the content of the post:

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ProTuningFreaks
    If you’ve modified your N54 based BMW extensively pushing well past the stock power levels or you’re just looking to run a different plug than the OEM Bosch ZGR6STE2 for any reason the NGK 5992 (ILZKBR7A-8G) are a great alternative. They can be had for about the same price as the OEM Bosch with some searching, $10.79 from http://www.sparkplugauto.com for instance.
    Now, I’ve been running them for the last 30,000km, racing, pushing high boost with race tunes with and without meth and these have performed strong as well as set some records without any issues.
    Thing to note is that these plugs off the shelf come with a larger gap than we can use on the N54 so just direct swapping them in won’t work and the car will stumble/misfire that way. You MUST have them gapped either to the OEM 0.7mm (0.0275″) or, which I’d recommend, to 0.56mm (0.022″) for high boost. The original gap on the NGK 5992 plugs is 0.8mm (0.031″) so make sure to GAP them before installation!
    Some of the reasons I personally like them vs. the OEM Bosch ZGR6STE2 plugs are as follows:
    1) Single ground prong vs. 3-prong OEM (makes the NGKs easily gappable when/if required)
    2) 1 heat range COLDER than Bosch – standard recommendation is to go 1 heat range colder for every 100hp past stock. I’m at ~300hp above stock at the motor currently so can’t hurt.
    3) Iridium center tip
    4) They haven’t let me down with literally TONS of very very hard driving on 20+psi boost on RBs, pump+meth. Literally hundreds of 3-4 gear pulls, many drag strip runs and 60-130mph runs.
    5) They’ve helped set some records too

    Here’s what the NGK 5992 plugs look like and some of its specs:
    Click here to enlarge
    Features & Benefits
    OE style long life spark plug. Laser welded iridium center electrode and platinum ground electrode, tapered ground electrode to minimize quenching, consistent and stable spark and outstanding acceleration, high fuel efficiency and durability.


    Part Number: 5992
    Weight: 0.09 lbs
    Ngk Part Number: ILZKBR7A-8G
    Thread Size: 12 mm.
    Resistor: Yes
    NGK Heat Range: 7
    Center Electrode Material: Iridium
    Ground straps: 1
    Insulator Type: Ceramic
    Ground Electrode Material: Copper core
    Thread Reach: 1.043 in. (26.5 mm.)
    Seat Type: Gasket
    Here’s the BMW N54′s OEM Bosch replacement spark plug and specs for comparison:
    Click here to enlarge
    Part Number: ZGR6STE2
    Weight: 0.12 lbs
    Thread Size: 12 mm.
    Resistor: Yes
    Bosch Heat Range: 6
    Center Electrode Material: Copper
    Ground Straps 3
    Insulator Type Ceramic
    Ground Electrode Material Nickel Alloy
    Thread Reach: 1.043 in. (26.5 mm.)
    Seat Type: Gasket
    One thing you may be left wondering about is the heat ranges. These are “manufacturer” heat ranges on the plugs and Bosch and NGK don’t have the same scaling. In fact they go in opposite directions to each other. Once you work it all out though, if you’re up for digging up the info on heat ranges (which is a bit painful by the way), you’ll realize the NGK 5992 are 1 step COLDER than the OEM Bosch.
    In the end, nothing wrong with OEMs but there is a solid 1 step colder alternative out there that is easily gap-able.
    Click here to enlarge

  2. #2
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    NGKs are def plug of choice on many other platforms.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


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    I've never liked the fact the BMW/OEMs were three pronged. It's almost impossible to accurately check and set the gap before putting them in. I've seen plenty of pre-gapped plugs that weren't gapped correctly...
    Click here to enlarge
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rader1 Click here to enlarge
    I've never liked the fact the BMW/OEMs were three pronged. It's almost impossible to accurately check and set the gap before putting them in. I've seen plenty of pre-gapped plugs that weren't gapped correctly...
    Agree. Its next to impossible to ensure the gap is right and we all know many a time the plugs, while still in their cases, get dropped and shoved around potentially changing the gap even when BNIB. I'd rather know exactly what gap I'm running at all times but I'm a bit OCD that way Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

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    Thanks for the writeup, I've had a set of them on my eBay watchlist for ages so I'll pull the trigger and buy them.

    What's the best way to set the gap on spark plugs? I've already got a set of spark plug gap size feeler gauges.
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    I usually just rest my hand holding the plug a few millimeters up from a solid object of some sort (a wall, a table, etc) and let it slightly drop a couple times and hit the top of the ground strap. Then check the gap with the feeler gauge and continue until you've got it down to the desired gap. Go easy on it bit by bit as its not recommended to play with them too much in away where you open/close the gap much.
    Click here to enlarge

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    Been using these plugs for 10k miles now Click here to enlarge
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    Nice post. Any tips on gapping? The way I've done them in the past is to create more gap. In this scenario it would be the opposite. So do you push the it down all the way then gap them?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    Nice post. Any tips on gapping? The way I've done them in the past is to create more gap. In this scenario it would be the opposite. So do you push the it down all the way then gap them?
    See 2 posts above...
    Click here to enlarge

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    Thanks for the write-up, that is very helpful. I had this idea quite a long time ago already, and this confirms that next time I'll replace my plugs with the NGK ones.

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    I know you mentioned how it's recommended that for every 100 HP over stock you should go 1 stage colder & that the OEM/Bosch plugs aren't bad; but would you strongly recommend these over on Stock Turbo applications?? I can def see the importance of swapping to NGKs for RB/aftermarket turbo setups, but I'm still cashing in on the Dealer Maintenance Package (pre-paid oil changes/brakes/spark plugs/ignition coils)
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by idnan Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for the writeup, I've had a set of them on my eBay watchlist for ages so I'll pull the trigger and buy them.

    What's the best way to set the gap on spark plugs? I've already got a set of spark plug gap size feeler gauges.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    I usually just rest my hand holding the plug a few millimeters up from a solid object of some sort (a wall, a table, etc) and let it slightly drop a couple times and hit the top of the ground strap. Then check the gap with the feeler gauge and continue until you've got it down to the desired gap. Go easy on it bit by bit as its not recommended to play with them too much in away where you open/close the gap much.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    Nice post. Any tips on gapping? The way I've done them in the past is to create more gap. In this scenario it would be the opposite. So do you push the it down all the way then gap them?
    I bought this for gapping:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAXCRAFT-MIT...772388&vxp=mtr

    Here's another that's even cheaper:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spark-Plug-G...50f2b3&vxp=mtr

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    I know you mentioned how it's recommended that for every 100 HP over stock you should go 1 stage colder & that the OEM/Bosch plugs aren't bad; but would you strongly recommend these over on Stock Turbo applications?? I can def see the importance of swapping to NGKs for RB/aftermarket turbo setups, but I'm still cashing in on the Dealer Maintenance Package (pre-paid oil changes/brakes/spark plugs/ignition coils)
    You're ok either way really. Having the plugs run colder can only help. This is just one of those nice to do things out there that can only help in the long run. Heat is something that in most cases takes its toll over time
    Click here to enlarge

  14. #14
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    I wouldn't really recommend that tool for gapping. It pushes against the center electrode and is just too touchy/feely Click here to enlarge I'd recommend a wire based one and suggest when gapping to do it bit by bit so you don't have to expand the gap, only reduce..

    Here's a clip from NGK themselves:

    Click here to enlarge

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    I've been running gapped NGKs; no problems whatsoever.
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    Good writeup, thanks.

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  17. #17
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    I wouldn't really recommend that tool for gapping. It pushes against the center electrode and is just too touchy/feely Click here to enlarge I'd recommend a wire based one and suggest when gapping to do it bit by bit so you don't have to expand the gap, only reduce..

    Here's a clip from NGK themselves:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk70oyUEftY
    Thanks. At least I can still use the tool to measure the gap.
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  18. #18
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    Any noticeable differences in gas mileage, throttle response, low load/cruising hiccups?
    Any advantages of indexing plugs in this head with normal plugs?

  19. #19
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    Haven't seen any changes in terms of those vs. the OEM plugs. I haven't played with indexing them but I doubt you'd see any measurable advantages out of it. Try it out Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

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