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  1. #151
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    I doubt balancing the drivetrain will help. In my thought this is more an engine cause and drivetrain inertia. Plus at idle, past the tranny doesn't matter. Basically gearbox knocking teeth due to torque swings between cyl firing... n54 idle isn't the smoothest. It's mentioned that other platforms with single mass don't chatter, but this is because all the components were matched... like tranny tolerances, drivetrain weight. For example v8 will have high/low torque output closer to the avg then 6 cyl. This is what the DM is doing... averaging torque output (not as wavy).

  2. #152
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ak335i Click here to enlarge
    is this the clutch the vishnu ST guys are using?
    ?


    .derp
    - Proven Power Tampa built 6466 ST -
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  3. #153
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ak335i Click here to enlarge
    ?


    .derp
    I that shiv's car was stage 2 or stage 2+ not 3. could be wrong.
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  4. #154
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux Click here to enlarge
    I guess we will know that once someone actually does a balancing of the drivetrain components and posts the results. Finances permitting, I should be in a position to do that beginning of next year.
    Ya, I guess it just doesn't bug me enough to matter since its only below 1700rpm at wot.

    The slipping is weird. Everytime I start the car and get on the freeway it will slip around 1/2 throttle (7psi). If I drop the pedal a couple times (e.g. rolling at what would be 2500rpm, revving to 3500, and releasing) the clutch will come back and hold WOT torque (18psi). This makes me think its glazing from incorrect bearing height or has contaminant (oil?) on the disc. Peculiar. Either way it needs to come out.

  5. #155
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Ya, I guess it just doesn't bug me enough to matter since its only below 1700rpm at wot.

    The slipping is weird. Everytime I start the car and get on the freeway it will slip around 1/2 throttle (7psi). If I drop the pedal a couple times (e.g. rolling at what would be 2500rpm, revving to 3500, and releasing) the clutch will come back and hold WOT torque (18psi). This makes me think its glazing from incorrect bearing height or has contaminant (oil?) on the disc. Peculiar. Either way it needs to come out.
    please post pics when you get it out. I would assume the same from your posts but I am no expert. I am starting to engage in 1st with almost no throttle because I am scared to 'glaze' it. I try to just blip the throttle and once it engages I give it more but it isn't easy.

    I think you said it's fine if you want to go 'fast n furious' and I agree. If I had to accelerate hard each time it would be acceptable. I am getting better but trying to make it drive like stock is hard atm. Only had it for 3 weeks(after 800 miles of break in) so hopefully I will get better.

    Don't get me wrong I REALLY like it but I am just worried about longevity especially with the high engagement point. If I burn a clutch every 15-20k I will be pissed and I will be the one installing them so labor is just a days work. Given the price it better last a long time given my output to the wheels(sig)and their claimed tq holding ability.
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  6. #156
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    I wouldn't go particularly easy on the clutch. The material feels good and can take a lot. I have never burnt it. I think mine it just shot from not enough pressure due to bearing thickness, but we'll see.

  7. #157
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    Its very strange. The clutch is slippery when I start the car but after a few clutch dumps it comes back alive. I am thinking that a leaking rear main seal is a possibility here for the aforementioned and because I have now lost 1 qt of oil in 3,000 miles (this is very high consumption for my car). I am ordering parts now and will include a new rear main seal in the BOM since it almost doesn't make sense not to swap it during this process. After some googling it appears this was a problem on earlier N54s (my 2008 should be fine though...).

    From N54tech...
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  8. #158
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Its very strange. The clutch is slippery when I start the car but after a few clutch dumps it comes back alive. I am thinking that a leaking rear main seal is a possibility here for the aforementioned and because I have now lost 1 qt of oil in 3,000 miles (this is very high consumption for my car). I am ordering parts now and will include a new rear main seal in the BOM since it almost doesn't make sense not to swap it during this process. After some googling it appears this was a problem on earlier N54s (my 2008 should be fine though...).

    From N54tech...
    Any updates? My clutch is starting to slip and i'm probably going to have to upgrade sometime in the next few months... Debating between going stage 2+ steel FW or stage 3+. Part of me thinks I should go 3+ just since it's only $100 extra and will last longer and for more power, but the other part of me wants a clutch that will drive pretty similar to stock. Although i'd love to do a single turbo eventually realistically I think it will always be stock turbos or RB's for me
    Click here to enlarge < Click picture for photoshoot
    E90 335i xDrive 6spd, Nav, Prem, Cold Weather, & Sports package - Msport Conversion
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  9. #159
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by psmith95 Click here to enlarge
    Any updates? My clutch is starting to slip and i'm probably going to have to upgrade sometime in the next few months... Debating between going stage 2+ steel FW or stage 3+. Part of me thinks I should go 3+ just since it's only $100 extra and will last longer and for more power, but the other part of me wants a clutch that will drive pretty similar to stock. Although i'd love to do a single turbo eventually realistically I think it will always be stock turbos or RB's for me
    Still waiting on parts. Hard to work out payment and all that during DENA.

  10. #160
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Still waiting on parts. Hard to work out payment and all that during DENA.
    Do you by anychance have part numbers on the flywheel and the stage 3+ that you have. I saw there are other 6 puck design as well? I can't find much info on stage 3+
    Burger Motorsports
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  11. #161
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    Do you by anychance have part numbers on the flywheel and the stage 3+ that you have. I saw there are other 6 puck design as well? I can't find much info on stage 3+
    I don't think that's changed SB533F2

  12. #162
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    I don't think that's changed SB533F2
    Damn, thanks bro. idk I got confused as hell on the spec site LOL. Thanks man, so after reading all your post. Steel or aluminum still LOL
    Burger Motorsports
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    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

  13. #163
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    If you're debating between the 2+ and 3+ go with the 3+...same engagement, same pedal pressure/feel, more holding capacity..we have sold many of these so far and run them on our cars without a single issue
    Click here to enlarge

  14. #164
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    I just want to say again I hate how high the clutch engages.
    E92 Bren Tune / E90 PTF Tune / E70 Twin Turbo Diesel JBD

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  15. #165
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@PTF Click here to enlarge
    If you're debating between the 2+ and 3+ go with the 3+...same engagement, same pedal pressure/feel, more holding capacity..we have sold many of these so far and run them on our cars without a single issue
    I have to concure, this clutch feels and runs great. As far as the guy above me, I am not sure how you set your clutch up, but our shop cars stage 3+ engages in very close to the same position as stock with only a slightly heavier pedal feel, the position feels very natural to me and I have driven a lot of race cars with a lot of $#@!ed up clutch engagements.

  16. #166
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    I have to concure, this clutch feels and runs great. As far as the guy above me, I am not sure how you set your clutch up, but our shop cars stage 3+ engages in very close to the same position as stock with only a slightly heavier pedal feel, the position feels very natural to me and I have driven a lot of race cars with a lot of $#@!ed up clutch engagements.
    It was previously installed when I bought the car. Doesn't the spec have two choices a higher and lower engagement point based on the TO bearing? I have heard multiple people complain about the height of the engagement...Maybe I should drive my 335xi with the stock clutch maybe they all engage high...or perhaps it feels high because I don't have the bms clutch stop in the stage3+ car...hmm....
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  17. #167
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
    It was previously installed when I bought the car. Doesn't the spec have two choices a higher and lower engagement point based on the TO bearing? I have heard multiple people complain about the height of the engagement...Maybe I should drive my 335xi with the stock clutch maybe they all engage high...or perhaps it feels high because I don't have the bms clutch stop in the stage3+ car...hmm....
    Yeah it has 2 choices for installation, high and low, I think I went with the lower of the 2 I don't remember now.

  18. #168
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    Hmmmm if I wasn't about to put it away for the winter I would take out the tranny and try the lower setting as I assume it must be at the higher setting right now.
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  19. #169
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    the TB I received was only 1 dimension non-radiused and similar to the longer setting IIRC... I measured to stock, but don't remember. The latest bearing is radiused with 2 settings same as stock I believe. Spec really dropped the ball on the original TB.

  20. #170
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    I've experimented with both settings. Even at the lower setting, it still engages/releases higher than stock.

    Sure wish Spec would address this!

    Neil

  21. #171
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MDORPHN Click here to enlarge
    I've experimented with both settings. Even at the lower setting, it still engages/releases higher than stock.

    Sure wish Spec would address this!

    Neil
    Is @Spec on this forum?
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  22. #172
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@PTF Click here to enlarge
    If you're debating between the 2+ and 3+ go with the 3+...same engagement, same pedal pressure/feel, more holding capacity..we have sold many of these so far and run them on our cars without a single issue
    I'll be getting the 3+ for sure since I'm going single turbo soon. For daily applications you'd recommend the steel flywheel? Interesting how there are 2 settings on the TOB, I've never heard of that..
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  23. #173
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
    Is @Spec on this forum?
    They were but never posted or did anything which kind of boggled my mind especially considering all the talk about their product.

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    I suspect that if all the vendors on this forum that sell their products raised the issue, it would be resolved.

    Neil

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MDORPHN Click here to enlarge
    I suspect that if all the vendors on this forum that sell their products raised the issue, it would be resolved.

    Neil
    I suspect you are correct.

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