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Thread: Spec 3+ and Steel SMF

              
  1. #76
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    If my HPF welds i'm going with either the 2+ or the 3+ and the steel flywheel more than likely..not changing anything out prematurely, wouldn't make sense to me
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
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    If my HPF welds i'm going with either the 2+ or the 3+ and the steel flywheel more than likely..not changing anything out prematurely, wouldn't make sense to me
    ... but then you will be granny shifting, not double clutching like you should... With how much you drag race, I am surprised the HPF was even an option?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
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    ... but then you will be granny shifting, not double clutching like you should... With how much you drag race, I am surprised the HPF was even an option?
    Up until I bought it I heard and read only great things on their Feramic clutch specifically when used with OEM dual mass flywheels. This includes 3 people at HPF, Chris included, who assured me it would be the "last clutch I'd buy" heh i know but we'll see..in any case I haven't given it a shot yet but it'll be up for the test pretty soon I hope..
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
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    It'd work the same. In fact the stg3+ clutch disk is quite similar to the feramic from HPF, the spec stg5 actually looks on paper to be very similar in material to the hpf feramic. I can't say I see any issues just swapping the flywheel for the steel one. If anything I'd recommend it given low to no chatter. I'm looking to hear a bit more from @rudypoochris post break-in to see how it plays out.

    Much appreciated @rudypoochris !
    I could, of course, be misinformed, but my understanding is that the HPF clutches are comprised of a Sachs Race Engineering (SRE) pressure plate with a Southbend "feramic" disk.

    Neil

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MDORPHN Click here to enlarge
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    I could, of course, be misinformed, but my understanding is that the HPF clutches are comprised of a Sachs Race Engineering (SRE) pressure plate with a Southbend "feramic" disk.

    Neil
    Yes, HPF's clutch setup uses a SACHS pressure plate and from what I've heard Southbend makes their feramic clutch disk to their specs.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
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    Yes, HPF's clutch setup uses a SACHS pressure plate and from what I've heard Southbend makes their feramic clutch disk to their specs.
    Is that good or bad?
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    Certainly not bad...SACHS pressure plates are OEM equipment on many cars out there and Southbend makes some pretty good stuff
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    @dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks what do you think about long term wear with only .5-1" depression required for disengagement? I love the shifts, but its such a high engagement point it worries me.

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    That was a concern i had after installing mine too. i was only able to put around 5k miles on it though before i sold the car. I still talk to the guy that bought my 335i so I'll let you guys know if it fails prematurely, although he's much nice on the car than i was.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
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    @dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks what do you think about long term wear with only .5-1" depression required for disengagement? I love the shifts, but its such a high engagement point it worries me.
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    @jpsimon has had his for quite a while, so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
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    @dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks what do you think about long term wear with only .5-1" depression required for disengagement? I love the shifts, but its such a high engagement point it worries me.
    That was similar to how the FX850 twin disk engagement was in a car I was tuning a while ago and coming from my current HPF setup I really didn't like it at all. I'm sure I'd get used to it with more seat time though but I do prefer as close to stock engagement point as possible.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
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    That was similar to how the FX850 twin disk engagement was in a car I was tuning a while ago and coming from my current HPF setup I really didn't like it at all. I'm sure I'd get used to it with more seat time though but I do prefer as close to stock engagement point as possible.
    I love the engagement point. I can shift so much faster. I just hope it doesn't wear out prematurely since there isn't much room for the pedal to move up.

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    Good thread.

    I'm trying to determine whether this combination could be installed in my 1M.

    I haven't yet checked parts numbers, but my understanding is that the 1M clutch is same as the 335is (and, perhaps, the Z4 version) except that the 1M has a lighter flywheel.

    And, I believe that the 1M tranny is the same as the one installed in the 135i.

    Would appreciate any information about the differences between the 1M and other N54-motored models that might affect which clutch could be installed.

    Thanks.

    Neil

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    Neil, I got a confirmation from SPEC that their clutches do work on the 1M.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
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    Neil, I got a confirmation from SPEC that their clutches do work on the 1M.
    The clutches certainly do, but the flywheel may not - IIRC the 1M (similar to later model 335i) has a different flywheel mounting with 6 bolts instead of 8 (or was it the other way round?).

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    I've made sure to double check with David Norton at SPEC and the complete kit will work on a 1M.

    What you may be thinking of is taking the 1M flywheel and using it on an early model N54 (pre 2010 i believe) in which case it wouldn't work as the older pressure plate and the 1M flywheel wouldn't mount to each other due to the 8 vs 6 bolts situation.
    Last edited by dzenno@PTF; 01-11-2013 at 07:08 AM.
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    Spec explained the difference in pedal height and assured me that it is normal and will not wear prematurely. Basically the clutch engagement point is the same as stock at the clutch, but at the pedal the action is adjusted higher up. So anxious to get some E85 and really use this clutch. I am at 250 miles and it is mostly sorted, but around down still a little jittery here and there.

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    3 out of 3 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    I ordered mine last night. Can't wait. I'll have to post a review as well for the xi guys

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Szemenyei Click here to enlarge
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    I ordered mine last night. Can't wait. I'll have to post a review as well for the xi guys
    that would be awesome!!
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    The stresses on the clutch and transmission for XI guys must be enormous. I will be interested in hearing about that. The break in does take a long time though FYI. I would take less than 500 miles if I thought it was fine based off feel, but it feels to me like it will surely take that long, I am trying to wear down the jittery spots, but the clutch disk is clearly pretty strong.

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    My shuddering didn't go completely away till I went to the drag strip at about 500 miles into the break in period. after 6 passes the shuddering was gone. I looked like a complete fool out there at the tree though. LOL it was hard to get used to that engagement point.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
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    The stresses on the clutch and transmission for XI guys must be enormous. I will be interested in hearing about that. The break in does take a long time though FYI. I would take less than 500 miles if I thought it was fine based off feel, but it feels to me like it will surely take that long, I am trying to wear down the jittery spots, but the clutch disk is clearly pretty strong.
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    Can't hate on a clutch that's BEGGING to be drag raced Click here to enlarge
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
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    My shuddering didn't go completely away till I went to the drag strip at about 500 miles into the break in period. after 6 passes the shuddering was gone. I looked like a complete fool out there at the tree though. LOL it was hard to get used to that engagement point.
    I wont be going to the strip, but I know I will be able to work this shuddering out... Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
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    The stresses on the clutch and transmission for XI guys must be enormous. I will be interested in hearing about that. The break in does take a long time though FYI. I would take less than 500 miles if I thought it was fine based off feel, but it feels to me like it will surely take that long, I am trying to wear down the jittery spots, but the clutch disk is clearly pretty strong.

    Stock one held up for 107,000 miles. And now that I'm full bolt ons and running a 50/50 e85 map that my buddy and I came up with I will definitely be throwing this clutch through everything. Car made 435 awtq on our first try, and am planning for a few more upgrades to get it to 100%! my review will follow as soon as I get it installed. Click here to enlarge

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    Any updates on the Chatter noise? I am trying to decide on a new DMFW or a Spec Steel SMFW but don't want the rattling bolts in a can sound.

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